• • r •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• , ••••••• • • • THE ULTIMATE GUIDE • DANIE·L PERES • FOR MAKING YOUR CLOTHES • AND THE EDITORS • WORK FOR YOU • OF DETAILS • • • • CONTENTS Introduction by Daniel Peres 6 Rules of Style 10 Classics You Should Already Own 12 Chapter 1: Shirts 14 Chapter 8: Casual Shirts 148 I • Three Degrees of the We ll-Dressed Man 32 Rules of Style: Donna Karan 162 Chapter 2: Pants 34 Chapter 9: Sweaters 164 Rules of Style: Giorgio Armani 56 The Movies That Shaped Men's Style 180 Chapter 3: Blazers 58 Rules of Style: Christopher Bailey 182 Map of the Wel l-Dressed Man 74 Chapter 10.: Outerwear 184 Chapter 4: Ties 76 Ru les of Style: Zac Posen 202 Rules of Style: Michael Kors 90 Chapter 11: Underwear 204 Chapter 5: Suits 92 Rules of Style: Kenneth Cole 212 Know the Code 114 Chapter 12: Shoes 214 Chapter 6: Formalwear 116 Rules of Style: Donatel la Versace 230 Rules of Style: Sean Combs 130 Chapter 13: Accessories 232 Chapter 7: Jeans 132 Rules of Style: Tommy Hilfiger 146 How to Pack 251 How to Care for Your Wardrobe 255 Where to Shop 261 Acknowledgments 268 Credits 269 • 5 Introduction A ew ears a o, a sto on t e ront _a e o t e New Yor Times Peres is a s o . " This was in the first sentence of an article about how it was fashionable for men to wear their shirts untucked, and I I . was its inspiration. Egos being what they are, the devil in me was thrilled. · In a world of skinny suits and pointy shoes, I was rather content dressing down. I had adopted a uniform of jeans, sweaters, and tattered Chucks and the occasional button- down shirt, untucked, of course. I even wore a fleece to a Versace fashion show once. In fact, at the men's fashion I ( shows in Milan and Paris, I often looked more like the editor of Monster Truck Monthly than Details. While I was convinced I looked, well, devilishly handsome, I have since realized that I was, as the Times stated, a slob. t • 6 : INTRODUCTION • • ' - -- I I decided to do something about it. It was time for me to start behaving like a gentleman, and in order to do so, I had to begin dressing like one. So when it came time to travel to Europe for the next batch of runway shows, I chose to wear a suit and tie every day. Let's just say it wasn't a subtle transformation. "Job interview?" cracked one smart-ass rival editor. "You look so • mature," said another, more insulting than complimentary, as if to say, "Hey, why aren't you dressed like a college fresh- man anymore?" And at least a half-dozen people asked if I was going to a funeral. I guess, in a way, that's how I used to approach these seasonal fashion exhibitions with the level of enthusi- asm generally reserved for a wake. I had to be there, but I . wanted out in the worst way. Well, th.ere's something to be said for osmosis. Years of sitting front row at the collec- tions had changed my interest from faux to genuine. • INTRODUCTION : 7 • • These designers had finally gotten through to me. I realized the importance of being well dressed. (Don't get me wrong, . jeans and sneakers can be very stylish just not every day.) , This book is here to help you with your own transforma- tion. Whether you've got your act together and simply need some occasional advice, or, like me, you want to give your- self a makeover, this is your guide. r My own sartorial shortcomings notwithstanding, Details has always taken fashion seriously. Our editors have consis- I tently presented the right mix of classic and cutting-edge. This book channels much of their collective fashion wisdom I into a piece-by-piece evaluation of the male wardrobe. The Details Men's Style Manual is your very own fa·shion t editor the expert you can turn to with any question you may have or any advice you may need. I Style is something extremely personal. No one, especially the editors of Details, should tell you how to dress. If you • • 8 · INTRODUCTION • • feel confident with your shirt untucked, then by all means don't tuck. I've always maintained that most men already have their own sense of style. But every now and then everyone needs to make some adjustments. That's exactly what I've done. It's not like I sold my soul to the fashion elite. I've simply changed my tune. And that's the great thing about fashion there's so much out there to . choose from, as long as you're paying attention. And if, like most men, you're too busy to pay attention on I your own, take comfort in the fact that we've done it for you. Everything you need to know is right here. You no lon- ger have an excuse for looking like a slob. Daniel Peres t • INTRODUCTION : 9 • • • COMING TO TERMS WITH YOUR BODY TYPE CAN BE LIBERATING. ONCE YOU START WEARING SUITS AND TROUSERS CUT PRECISELY TO FIT YOU, YOU'LL REALIZE THIS. NO MAN LOOKS ELEGANT IN A TOO- TIGHT JACKET OR BAGGY PANTS. If you feel most comfortable in a charcoal suit with a pale tie and a pocket square, wear a variation on that outfit five days a week. Powerful men have signature looks . • 10 : RULES OF STYLE • • Don't try to dress like a movie star un- less you are one. Just because Brad Pitt or ~ Johnny Depp can pull it off doesn't mean you can.Go ahead and experiment with trends now and then, but don' t wear a pork- pie hat because you saw a celebrity do it. I ARE CLASSIC FOR A REASON. MEN'S STYLE HAS CHANGED LITTLE OVER THE PAST ONE HUNDRED YEARS. YOU SHOULDN'T BE THE PERSON WHO TRIES TO BREAK THE MOLD. WHEN IN DOUBT, ASK YOURSELF, "WHAT WOULD CARY GRANT DO?" Don.'t try too hard. Be inquisitive. Strive for being stylish rather than If a friend 1s looking particularly sharp go ahead and fashionable and remember that the find out where he buys his threads. Chances are his most important person to dress for answer will broaden your horizons. . 1s you. • RULES OF STYLE : 11 • • CLASSICS YOU SHOULD ALREADY OWN D AN OVERCOAT THAT COMPLEMENTS CUSTOM SUITS AND MAKES JEANS LOOK ELEGANT A SINGLE-BREASTED NAVY BLUE SUIT AND A GRAY SUIT, BOTH IN A MEDIUM WEIGHT THAT YOU CAN WEAR YEAR-ROUND A NAVY BLAZER TWO PAIRS OF GOOD SHOES- ONE BLACK , THE OTHER • DARK BROWN 12 D A SLIM X2 DARK- COLORED TIE D D D TWO WHITE ONE BLUE TWO POLO SHIRTS SHIRT SHIRTS A SIMPLE A PAIR OF BASIC • BLACK BELT STRAIGHT- LEG BLUE JEANS ( SEVERAL PAIRS OF BLACK COTTON • SOCKS • CLASSICS YOU SHOU L D ALREADY OWN : 13 • •