Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic, and Cosmetic Development

644 Pages·2007·26.39 MB·English

Dermatologic,
Cosmeceutic, and
Cosmetic Development
Walters_978-0849375897_TP.indd 1 11/7/07 3:32:41 PM
Dermatologic,
Cosmeceutic, and
Cosmetic Development
Therapeutic and Novel Approaches
Edited by
Kenneth A. Walters
An-eX Analytical Services Ltd.
Cardiff, United Kingdom
Michael S. Roberts
School of Medicine, University of Queensland
Princess Alexandra Hospital
Buranda, Australia
Walters_978-0849375897_TP.indd 2 11/7/07 3:32:42 PM
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Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic, and Cosmetic Development: Therapeutic and Novel
32
Approaches / edited by Kenneth A. Walters, Michael S. Roberts.
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p. ; cm.
34 Includes bibliographical references and index.
35 ISBN-13: 978-0-8493-7589-7 (hb : alk. paper)
36 ISBN-10: 0-8493-7589-4 (hb : alk. paper)
37 1. Skin—Diseases—Chemotherapy. 2. Dermatopharmacology. 3.
Cosmetics—Side efects. I. Walters, Kenneth A., 1949- II. Roberts, Michael S., 1949-
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[DNLM: 1. Skin Diseases—drug therapy. 2. Administration, Cutaneous.
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3. Cosmetics—adverse efects. 4. Cosmetics—pharmacokinetics. 5.
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Dermatologic Agents—adverse efects. 6. Dermatologic
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Agents—pharmacokinetics. 7. Skin Absorption. WR 650 D4355 2007]
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RL801.D473 2007
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616.5'061—dc22 2007031863
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EGT: Walters FM_Page xiii - 11/07/2007, 05:00PM MTC
Preface
Skin disorders can be both physically and psychologically traumatic for the patient.
Reactions can range from the extreme discomfort of infantile eczema to the painful
embarrassment of teenage acne to the midlife desire to reduce facial wrinkles and hy-
perpigmentation. Researchers and clinicians within the pharmaceutical and cosmetic
industries strive to fnd those treatments that will successfully alleviate the distressing
symptoms. Basic researchers are continually searching for causative factors, be they
immunologically, genetically, or environmentally mediated. As this research con-
tinues, it is safe to say that there have been many recent, signifcant advances in our
understanding of the development and morphology of normal skin, and this has
led to a more reliable ability to deliver therapeutic compounds to selected targeted
areas both within the skin and systemically.
This book provides an overview of the current pharmaceutical and cosme-
ceutical practices in the management of both major and minor skin disorders. It is
divided into eight parts. The frst section is concerned with specifc factors afecting
efcacy of topical therapy and includes an overview of the range of skin disorders,
drugs used to manage these disorders, sites where an efect is sought, and how per-
cutaneous absorption is afected by age, skin site, race, and skin disease or damage.
This section also considers delivery to the systemic circulation, appendages, and
nails. The second section discusses pharmaceutical therapy from the viewpoint of
topical absorption and covers treatment of the major skin diseases and injuries such
as wounds and burns, with particular emphasis on novel approaches.
The third section introduces the underlying principles defning cosmeceuti-
cals and goes on to examine their applications, sources, and formulations. The skin
absorption and use of specifc cosmeceuticals are then considered, covering both
cosmeceutical and cosmetic agents such as hair dyes, sunscreens, oils, hydroxy-
acids, moisturizers, and insect repellents. The next section includes an evaluation of
the evidence base for cosmeceuticals, their appropriate use, and the safety and tox-
icity issues.
The fnal portion of the book is concerned with improving therapeutic out-
comes. The various methods used to improve drug transport into and across the
skin, including more accurate dosing regimens, chemical penetration enhancers,
physical enhancement, and the use of microneedles and high impact powder, or
biolistic, delivery.
This book has been writen for scientists interested in dermatological ther-
apy and those concerned with the marketing of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical
products; in addition, it will prove useful to students and those involved in research
and development in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
We have been fortunate to obtain the agreement of many internationally rec-
ognized experts in the feld of dermal pharmaceutics and cosmeceuticals to provide
coverage of their specifc felds of expertise. To all of our authors we extend our
sincere thanks for their unreserved eforts and time.
Kenneth A. Walters
Michael S. Roberts
iii
Contents
Preface . . . . iii
Contributors . . . . viii
Introduction
1.  Skin Structure, Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics, and the Efcacy
of Topically Applied Agents 1
Michael S. Roberts and Kenneth A. Walters
Part I: Skin Disorders and Therapies
2.  Drugs Used for Skin Diseases 11
Neil Kitson
3.  Treatment of Dermatitis 21
Chris Anderson
4.  Evolution of Cosmeceuticals and Their Application to Skin Disorders,
Including Aging and Blemishes 45
Des Fernandes
5.  Biology of Skin Pigmentation and Cosmetic Skin Color Control 61
Chong Jin Loy and Raman Govindarajan
6.  Evidence-Based Cosmeceutical Therapy 97
Maria Miteva and Joachim W. Fluhr
Part II: Specifc Factors Afecting Targeting and Efcacy
7.  Skin Hydration—A Key Determinant in Topical Absorption 115
Michael S. Roberts, Joke Bouwstra, Fabrice Pirot, and Françoise Falson
8.  Epidemiology of Skin Barrier Function: Host and Environmental Factors 129
Greg G. Hillebrand and R. Randall Wicket
9.  Permeability Through Diseased and Damaged Skin 157
Daniel A. W. Bucks
10.  Targeting the Pilosebaceous Gland 169
Guang Wei Lu, Susan Cioti, Satyanarayana Valiveti, Jefrey E. Grice, and Sheree E. Cross
11.  Drug Penetration Enhancement Through Human Nail and Skin 189
Thomas C. K. Chan, Kenneth A. Walters, Xiaoying Hui, and Howard I. Maibach
v
vi Contents
Part III: Topical Pharmaceuticals, Formulations, and Indications
12.  Geting the Dose Right in Dermatological Therapy 197
Adrian F. Davis
13.  Drugs for Pain and Infammation 215
Michael W. Whitehouse, Mantu Sarkar, and Michael S. Roberts
14.  Novel Topically Active Antimicrobial/Anti-infammatory Compounds
for Acne 243
Joseph A. Dunn, Robert A. Coburn, Richard T. Evans, Robert J. Genco, and
Kenneth A. Walters
15.  Codrugs: Potential Therapies for Dermatological Diseases 255
Tadeusz Cynkowski, Grazyna Cynkowska, and Kenneth A. Walters
16.  Topical Therapeutic Agents Used in Wound Care 267
Sheree E. Cross
17.  Established and Emerging Oral Antifungals in Dermatology 283
Gérald E. Piérard, Claudine Piérard-Franchimont, Valérie Vroome, Jorge Arrese,
Pascale Quatresooz, Marcel Borgers, and Geert Cauwenbergh
18.  Hydroxy Acids and Retinoids in Cosmetic Products 297
Robert L. Bronaugh
Part IV: Topical Cosmeceuticals, Formulations, and Indications
19.  Natural Ingredients Used in Cosmeceuticals 303
Anthony C. Dweck
20.  Infuence of Formulation Design on the Clinical Performance
of Topically Applied Formulations 325
Johann W. Wiechers
21.  Dry Skin and Moisturizers 339
Anthony Vincent Rawlings and Paul John Mats
22.  Antioxidants in the Skin: Dermatological and Cosmeceutical Aspects 373
Maxim Darvin and Juergen Lademann
23.  Absorption and Evaporation of Volatile Compounds Applied to Skin 385
Gerald B. Kasting, Mathew A. Miller, and Johannes M. Nitsche
24.  Efcacy, Absorption, and Safety of Essential Oils 401
Ulrich F. Schäfer, Jürgen Schneele, Sonja Schmit, and Jürgen Reichling
25.  Sunscreens: Efcacy, Skin Penetration, and Toxicological Aspects 419
Heather A. E. Benson
Contents vii
Part V: Safety Considerations
26.  Efcacy and Safety of Tea Tree and Other Oils 437
Christine F. Carson, Kate A. Hammer, and Jesper B. Nielsen
27.  Safety Assessments Based on Exposure, Skin Permeation and
Toxicity Considerations 453
William E. Dressler and Kenneth A. Walters
Part VI: Skin Assessment
28.  Noninvasive Evaluation of Skin in the Cosmetic Industry 467
Carlos Galzote, Michael Suero, and Raman Govindarajan
29.  Application of In Vivo Scanning Microscopy for Skin Analysis in
Dermatology and Cosmetology 487
Lars E. Meyer and Juergen Lademann
Part VII: Improving Therapeutic Outcomes Using Chemical Techniques
30.  Chemical Penetration Enhancement: Possibilities and Problems 497
Adrian C. Williams and Kenneth A. Walters
31.  Multicomponent Formulations of Chemical Penetration Enhancers 505
Pankaj Karande, Amit Jain, and Samir Mitragotri
Part VIII: Improving Therapeutic Outcomes Using Physical Techniques
32.  Iontophoresis 517
Narayanasamy Kanikkannan, Michael Bonner, Jagdish Singh, and Michael S. Roberts
33.  DNA Transfer in the Skin 537
Gaëlle Vandermeulen, Liévin Daugimont, and Véronique Préat
34.  Pressure Waves for Transdermal Drug Delivery 557
Apostolos G. Doukas, Sumit Paliwal, and Samir Mitragotri
35.  Microneedle Arrays as Transcutaneous Delivery Devices 577
James Birchall and Keith R. Brain
36.  Needle-Free Ballistic Delivery of Powdered Immunotherapeutics to the Skin Using
Supersonic Gas Flow 591
Mark A. F. Kendall