Denmark

324 Pages·2015·27.574 MB·English

Denmark
4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
1
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
3
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
4
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
Go further with Lonely Planet
1 2
Book your travels Talk to other
travellers
Find a flight
Find the right flight through our Looking for ideas and advice on a
online booking service. specific destination? Want to share
your experiences with the most
Reserve a room active travel community? Then head
to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum,
Visit the Lonely Planet website to book where you’ll find new posts every
author-reviewed and recommended 12 seconds.
accommodation for any price range.
Book activities
Discover and book amazing experiences
online for destinations around the globe.
lonelyplanet.com/destinations lonelyplanet.com/thorntree
3
Talk to locals
With just a few words in the local language you can make a real connection
when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is
guaranteed to get you talking, no matter where you’re going.
Download the free Lonely Planet Fast Talk app to get started.
FAST TALK
shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooks lonelyplanet.com/fast-talk
4
Check out our full range of guides
Travelling somewhere else? Staying longer in a particular place? Check out our full range of
guides, written and researched by expert authors to give you an amazing travel experience.
COUNTRY & REGIONAL DISCOVER POCKET EBOOKS
The freedom you need to Full-colour images Perfect for The same great content
plan the perfect trip. and top itineraries. a quick visit. with added interactivity.
shop.lonelyplanet.com shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks
5
Get inspired to travel
The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting
magazine for people who want to see more of the world.
Go online to find out more and see the latest subscription offer.
lonelyplanet.com/magazine
STAY IN TOUCH
lonelyplanet.com/contact
AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/
%03 8379 8000, fax [phone] lonelyplanet
USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/
%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax [phone] lonelyplanet
UK 240 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 8NW lonelyplanet.com/
%020 3771 5100, fax [phone] newsletter
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Denmark
Northern
Jutland
p240
Central Jutland
p205
#_Copenhagen
Southern Zealand p42
Jutland p93
Funen
p185
p157
Bornholm
p141
Møn,
Falster &
Lolland
p126
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Carolyn Bain, Cristian Bonetto
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Denmark . . . 4 COPENHAGEN . . . . . 42 MØN, FALSTER &
LOLLAND . . . . . . . . . 126
Denmark Map . . . . . . . . . . .6 Around Copenhagen . . . 91
Ishøj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Møn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Denmark’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . 8
Charlottenlund . . . . . . . . . . 92 Stege . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16
Klampenborg . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Ulvshale & Nyord . . . . . . . 131
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Lyngby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Keldby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Elmelunde . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
ZEALAND . . . . . . . . . . 93 Møns Klint & Around . . . . 132
Month by Month . . . . . . . . 21
Øresund Coast . . . . . . . .96 Klintholm Havn . . . . . . . . . 134
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Rungsted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Western Møn . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Outdoor Activities . . . . .30 Helsingør . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Bogø . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Travel with Children . . . . 35 Inland Towns . . . . . . . . . 101 Falster . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135
Hillerød . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Nykøbing F . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Regions at a Glance . . . . 38
Fredensborg . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Marielyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
North Coast . . . . . . . . . .104 Lolland . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Hornbæk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Maribo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Gilleleje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Around Lolland . . . . . . . . . 140
Tisvildeleje . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
PHOTOPOP / VISIT AARHUS © FRLSKejoøoojsgurrkeedti . . hl dT . .eo . .er . . .w n . . . nZ . . .s . . .e . . .a . . . . .la . . . . . . .n . . . .d . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111110011148483 RÅIDBnøkuOtineerRrnokieedoN .b dr .H yeW . . O . . . o . . .oL . . .dM . . .l . . .a . . .n . . . .d . . . .s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111114444466351
Vallø . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Snogebæk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Sorø . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Nexø . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Trelleborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Svaneke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Vordingborg . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Gudhjem & Melsted . . . . . 150
AARHUS P208
DEA / G. W
RIGHT / GETTY IM
AGES ©
VIKING SHIP MUSEUM P109
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Around Gudhjem CENTRAL Denmark
& Melsted . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 JUTLAND . . . . . . . . . 205 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
Sandvig & Allinge . . . . . . . 153
Aarhus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
Hammershus Slot . . . . . . 154
Djursland . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 The Danish Lifestyle . . 273
Hammeren . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Ebeltoft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Christiansø . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Danish Design . . . . . . . . 276
Grenaa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 279
FUNEN . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Around Djursland . . . . . . . 223
The Lake District . . . . .224 Literature, Film & TV . .285
Odense . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Silkeborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Around Funen . . . . . . . .168
Ry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Kerteminde . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Himmelbjerget . . . . . . . . . 229 SURVIVAL
Ladby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Egeskov Slot . . . . . . . . . . . 170 The Interior . . . . . . . . . . 230 GUIDE
Jelling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Faaborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Givskud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
Svendborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .290
Billund & Legoland . . . . . . 231
Tåsinge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Randers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Langeland . . . . . . . . . . . .177
Rebild Bakker & Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Rudkøbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Rold Skov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Northern Langeland . . . . 178
Viborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
Southern Langeland . . . . 179
Central West Coast . . .238
Ærø . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Hvide Sande . . . . . . . . . . . 238
Ærøskøbing . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Marstal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
NORTHERN
Søby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
JUTLAND . . . . . . . . . 240
SOUTHERN Aalborg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
JUTLAND . . . . . . . . . 185 Frederikshavn . . . . . . . . . . 248
Kolding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Sæby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Esbjerg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Skagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
Fanø . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Råbjerg Mile . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Ribe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Hirtshals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
SPECIAL FEATURES
Wadden Sea Hjørring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 198 Løkken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . .25
Rømø . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Hanstholm . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Outdoor Activities . . . .30
Tønder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Klitmøller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 The Danish
Møgeltønder . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Lifestyle . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
Sønderborg . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Danish Design . . . . . . . 276
Als . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Denmark
Denmark seems to have cemented its
position at or near the top of every
global quality-of-life survey. Take a look
around, and it’s not hard to see why.
Happiness & Hygge Equality of Life
It’s heart-warming to know there’s still a While many countries are noticeable for the
country where the term ‘fairy tale’ can be ever-increasing gap between the ‘haves’ and
used freely – from its most enduring liter- ‘have-nots’, Denmark seems to be populated
ary legacy to its fine textbook castles. In a by the ‘have enoughs’, and the obviously rich
nutshell, Denmark gets it right: old-fashioned and obviously poor are few and far between.
charm embraces the most avowedly forward- This egalitarian spirit allows the best of the
looking design and social developments, and arts, architecture, eating out and entertain-
wins it a regular chart-topping place on lists ment to be within easy reach of all. Indeed,
of both the most liveable and the happiest the best catchword for Denmark might well
nations on earth. You won’t have to search be ‘inclusive’ – everyone is welcome and
hard to find some much-prized hygge, an everyone is catered to, be they young, old,
untranslatable and uniquely Danish trait that gay, straight, male, female, and whether they
has a profound influence on the locals’ ines- travel with kids, pets or bikes in tow, or with
timable happiness. Hygge is social nirvana in a mobility issue or handicap. Cities are com-
Denmark: a sense of cosiness, camaraderie pact and user-friendly, infrastructure is clean
and contentment. and modern, and travel is a breeze.
History & Impact The Danish Aesthetic
The world first took notice of Denmark more Denmark’s landscapes are understated –
than a millennium ago, when Danish Vikings pure and simple, often infused with an
took to the seas and ravaged vast tracts of ethereal Nordic light. Such landscapes are
Europe. How things have changed. These days reflected in the Danish design philoso-
Denmark captures the global imagination as phy towards fashion, food, architecture,
the epitome of a civilised society, and it punch- furniture and art. Simplicity of form and
es above its weight on many fronts: progressive function come first, but not at the expense
politics, urban planning, sustainability, design, of beauty. And so you’ll find moments of
architecture. Recent global crushes freshly quintessential Danish loveliness on a sandy
exported from Copenhagen include city cycling beach, beside a lake, admiring a Renais-
culture, the New Nordic culinary movement, sance castle, or in a candlelit cafe that has
and brilliantly addictive TV drama series. perfected the art of hygge.
5
SEAN CAFFREY / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Denmark
By Carolyn Bain, Author
My first experience of Denmark came as a teenager, living there for a year as an exchange
student. My first youthful Danish loves were the pastries, the furniture design and the long
summer nights. These days I return with the same passions, enriched with an adult appre-
ciation for Denmark’s egalitarianism, its belief that cities belong to people not cars and its
endless quest for hygge. It helps that everything is easy on the eye – the unfairly attractive
locals, yes, but also the architecture, the landscapes and the interior design. I think that
secretly, most cities want to grow up to be Copenhagen – and if they don’t, they should.
For more about our authors, see page 320.
Above: Country home near Egeskov Slot (p170), Funen
m
k
0
0
1
miles N g
50 enburg EDEN EVATIO 200m100m50m0 Varber#\ 57°N
oth W EL
G S
#] 2°E
1
T
e0#0 #DOslo (Norway)D11°E SkagenEnjoy sunshine, seafoodGammelbeaches and art (p251)#\###\SkagenSkagen Ålbæk#\ Frederikshavn#] Sæby#\Østerby Havn#\Vesterø#\Havn#\Byrum Asaa#\ Hals#\ K A T T E G A ndAnholt AuningGrenaa#\#\#\Nimtofte #\Tirstrup#\Rønde
nmark DenmarkDKristiansandLarvik;Bornholm10°E(Norway)LangesundChristiansøDSweden(Norway)De010km#05milesStavanger;Sandvig\#Allinge\#)Bergen (NorwayDGudhjem\# Hasle\#Svaneke\#Hirtshals#\DKøgeTornby#\9°EFaroeDRønne\#SindalNexøIslands;\#\##\ÅkirkebyHjørringIceland#] BornholmLøkken#\Relax on Denmark's perfectGermanyØster Vrå#\Dholiday island (p141)Brønderslev#]Blokhus#\ HjallerupTranum#\#\Aabybro#\StrandHanstholm#\Fjerritslev#\Nørresundby#\8°EKlitmøller#\#]AalborgThisted57°NNibe#\#]LimfjordStenbjerg#\###### Støvring#\3SkørpingAars#\#\NykøbingAgger#\#\Farsø#\Hurup#\ Hadsu#\Jutland's West CoastAssens#\Let the wind fill yourHobro#\#\kitesurfing sails (p238)MariagerHandestLemvig#\#]#\SkiveStruer#]Vinderup#\Randers#\Viborg#\ Bjerringbro#\#\HolstebroKarup#\#\Ulfborg
e
D
33333
#\DråbyEbeltoft#\HelsingørAarhus33Silkeborg###\Visit Hamlet's majestic castleGilleleje#\#]###########\Herning#\IkastAarhus(p97)Ringkøbing#\RyHelsingør#\Explore Denmark's surprising####\KibækSkanderborgsecond city (p208)#\#\Hvide SandeHumlebækFrederiksværk3Hundested#\#\56°NSilkeborg#\#\Odder#\Skjern#\#\#\#\OddenPonder the great outdoors andRørvigHillerødLynæs#\Hou#\bog-body mysteries (p224)RungstedFrederikssundSælvigHorsens#\#\#\Give#\LyngbyØlstykkeSnaptun#\#\#\Nørre Nebel#\#\JellingHellerupBillundHolbæk#\#\Henne#\###nne########_#\#\COPENHAGENStrandbyJuelsminde#\Vejle#\andKalundborg#\RoskildeJyderup#\#\#\#\Dragør#\KorshavnVarde#\BogenseSFredericia#\t#\obyOtterupGørlevHolsted#\rStrib#\RønneeKolding #\#\SøndersøEsbjergKøgeB#\#\(Bornholm)Båring#\æ#\#\#\DSorø#\BrammingMiddelfart#\MunkebolNordbyKerteminde#\#\#\Vejen#\#\ #\tRingstedNørre ÅbyRindbyKorup#\#\TrelleborgStoreSlagelseOdense#\#]Årup#\UllerslevJelsHeddinge#\#\ChristiansfeldSønderho#\##\#\LangeskovRibe#\####Korsør#\#\Nyborg#\FaksesbjergGlam#\ÅrslevRødvig#\Næstved#\#\Assens#\ØrbækSkælskørFakse#\#\Vojens#\#\Ringe#\#\#\HaderslevLadepladsHårby#\RømøToftlundKvændrup#\#\CopenhagenSkærbæk#\Lakolk#\Korinth#\Lohals#\PræstøEnvy the locals' sky-high#\HavnebyBøjden#\#\Faaborg#\quality of life (p42)NordborgLøgumkloster#\Svendborg#\###\Stege#\ListVordingborg#\#\FynshavAabenraa#\ALSMØNHøjerN55°N#\Augustenborg#\TønderMommark#\Rudkøbing###############\#\Søby#\Spodsbjerg#\#####\MøgeltønderGråsten#\#\#\####\#\Nørre AlslevÆrøskøbing#\StubbekøbingTinglev#\SønderborgDybbøl#\Tårs#\FALSTER#\Kruså#\SøllestedSakskøbing#\MarstalHorreby#\#\Nakskov#\Padborg#\Maribo#\Nykøbing#\Flensburg#\33333333333333333Bagenkop#\Holeby#\RødbyMarielyst#\#\#\Rødbyhavn#\LegolandRibeÆrøNystedEmbrace your inner childSoak up centuries ofHear seafaring tales andLOLLANDGedser#\333333333333333333333333(p231)history (p193)cycle rural bike lanes (p180) #\Puttgarden10°EGERMANY12°E3333333333333333333
#\ HeStr #\Oks 55°