Delivery System Handbook for Personal Care and Cosmetic Products: Technology, Applications and Formulations

1091 Pages·2006·16.89 MB·English

Delivery System Handbook
for Personal Care and
Cosmetic Products
Technology, Applications, and
Formulations
Edited by
Meyer R. Rosen
Interactive Consulting, Inc.
East Norwich, New York
Copyright © 2005 by William Andrew, Inc.
No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechani-
cal, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without per-
mission in writing from the Publisher.
Cover art by Brent Beckley
ISBN: 0-8155-1504-9
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Rosen, Meyer R.
Delivery system handbook for personal care and cosmetic products:
technology, applications, and formulations / edited by Meyer R. Rosen.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 0-8155-1504-9 (0-8155)
1. Cosmetic delivery systems—Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. Advertis-
ing—Cosmetics—Handbooks, manuals, etc. 3. Cosmetics—Handbooks,
manuals, etc. 4. Hygiene products—Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Title.
TP983.3.R67 2005
668'.55—dc22
2005023020
Printed in the United States of America.
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by
William Andrew, Inc.
13 Eaton Avenue
Norwich, NY 13815
1-800-932-7045
www.williamandrew.com
NOTICE
To the best of our knowledge the information in this publication is accurate; however the Publisher does not
assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy or completeness of, or consequences arising from, such
information. This book is intended for informational purposes only. Mention of trade names or commercial
products does not constitute endorsement or recommendation for use by the Publisher. Final determination of the
suitability of any information or product for any use, and the manner of that use, is the sole responsibility of the
user. Anyone intending to rely upon any recommendation of materials or procedures mentioned in this publica-
tion should be independently satisfied as to such suitability, and must meet all applicable safety and health
standards.
Dedication
To my Father and Mother, Philip and Jeanne Rosen, who
provided their son with the opportunity of an extraordinary
education and thereby laid the foundation for me to contribute
to our Industry and to my Fellow Travellers in this Process
we call Life.
To my loving wife Selma, the wind beneath my wings.
Soul Mate Extraodinaire
Loved beyond the power of mere words to express.
She who has supported me in all things
and under all circumstances.
When it was time to grow from the Corporate World into the
All-in-One role of Consultant, it was Selma who taught me
to listen to what was wanted and needed
and then, to provide it.
To Selma, who taught me:
“When you change the way you look at things,
…the things you look at change”.
Contributing Authors
Aikens, Patricia – Chapter 41 He is currently working on new approaches to
market development and new product management.
Patricia Aikens received a B.S. in chemistry
Mr. Ansaldi holds seven patents and has published
from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute in Troy, NY
papers on various topics in the field of cosmetics.
and a Ph.D. in organic chemistry from Emory Uni-
versity in Atlanta, GA. She has worked in research Presperse Inc.
and development mainly for the cosmetic industry 635 Pierce Street, Somerset, NJ 08873
over the past 10 years at ICI and Dragoco. She is Tel: [phone], Fax: [phone]
currently the Technical Group Leader for Skin-Care E-mail:
XXX DELIVERY SYSTEM HANDBOOK FOR PERSONAL CARE AND COSMETIC PRODUCTS
Aust, Duncan T. – Chapter 21 Ciba Specialty Chemicals, Water & Paper Treatment
P.O. Box 38, Low Moor
Duncan T. Aust, DPT Laboratories, San Anto-
Bradford, England, BD12 OJZ
nio, Texas, has been instrumental in the development
E-mail:
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS XXXI
Byers, Blaine H. – Chapter 26 Dayan, Nava – Chapters 4 & 9
Blaine H. Byers, Stepan Company, Northfield, Nava Dayan, Lipo Chemicals, Inc., Paterson,
Illinois, is senior manager of Global Personal Care New Jersey, specializes in the design and develop-
Product Development. He is responsible for new ment of innovative raw materials, delivery systems,
technology screening, development, commercializa- and formulations for cosmetic, personal care, and
tion, and promotional literature as well as customer topical applications. She has authored more than
support for personal care product development at 50 papers and presentations. Dr. Dayan is one of
Stepan. He has been active in guiding development the founders of the Israeli Society of Cosmetic
of new emulsification and emollient technologies for Chemists and is a member of the American As-
personal care applications. Dr. Byers is a member sociation of Pharmaceutical Scientists, the Interna-
of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, American Oil tional Controlled Release Society, and the US Soci-
Chemists Society, and American Chemical Society. ety of Cosmetic Chemists. She received her PhD in
He received a PhD in inorganic/organometallic pharmaceutics.
chemistry from the University of Illinois, Urbana-
Lipo Chemicals Inc.
Champaign. th
207 19 Ave., Paterson, NJ 07504
Stepan Company Tel: [phone] ext. 3899, Fax: [phone]
22 W. Frontage Road, Northfield, IL 60093 E-mail:
XXXII DELIVERY SYSTEM HANDBOOK FOR PERSONAL CARE AND COSMETIC PRODUCTS
Elder, Todd – Chapter 11 at Dow/Amerchol Corporation. He also worked as
Hair Care Manager for Firmenich, Inc. Presently
Todd Elder, Ciba Specialty Chemicals,
he is a Senior Research Scientist at Ciba Chemical
Tarrytown, New York, is director, delivery effects,
Specialties.
for the Home & Personal Care Segment of Ciba.
He is responsible for the creation of a new global He is the author of numerous publications on
center focused on the development of novel tech- hair physical properties, hair damage and delivery
nologies for the delivery of useful actives in home of actives from shampoos. He directs the course on
and personal care products. His primary interests Hair Product Development for the Center for Pro-
are in polymeric, or biologically derived encapsula- fessional Advancement. In 2000 Dr. Gamez-Garcia
tion. Dr. Elder holds a number of patents relating to received the SCC award for the best published pa-
the personal care industry. He received a PhD in per from the Society of Cosmetic Chemists for his
pharmaceutical sciences from the University of work on hair damage.
Kentucky.
Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corp.
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 540 White Plains Road
540 White Plains Road., Tarrytown, NY 10591-9005 PO Box 2005, Tarrytown, NY 10591
Tel: [phone], Fax: [phone] Tel: [phone]
E-mail:
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS XXXIII
Gruber, James (Vince) – Chapter 17 Coletica Inc.
th
541 5 Ave., Suite 1108, New York, NY 10017
James (Vince) Gruber, Arch Personal Care,
Tel: [phone]
South Plainfield, New Jersey , is director of Research
E-mail:
XXXIV DELIVERY SYSTEM HANDBOOK FOR PERSONAL CARE AND COSMETIC PRODUCTS
interests are the physical chemistry and character- lization, and is co-inventor on a patent for phase stable
ization of colloidal systems in general, and more multiple emulsion compositions. He received the J.
specifically particle sizing and optical properties Whittam Science Award from the City College of
of particulate UV absorbers. He has published 16 New York and the Bayer & BP S. Thames Award
papers and holds 12 patents. at the International Waterborne, High Solids Coat-
ings Symposium. Dr. Kanouni is a member of the
Köchlinstrasse 1, D-79639 Grenzach
Federation of Societies for Coating Technology and
Wyhlen, Germany
has offered seminars on stabilization of coatings. He
Tel: [phone]
received his PhD in physical chemistry from the City
E-mail:
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS XXXV
Kvitnitsky, Emma – Chapter 10 Lidert, Zev – Chapter 8
Emma Kvitnitsky, Tagra Biotechnologies, Ltd., Zev Lidert, Paragon Chemicals, Inc., Dresher,
Netanya, Israel, is production development manager. Pennsylvania, is research director at Paragon. The
At MIGAL Galilee Technological Center, she man- company identifies targets for technology acquisi-
ages the Chemistry Plant Extracts Laboratory. She tion, develops manufacturing cost information, fur-
is responsible for the development of extraction tech- nishes experimental samples, and delivers commer-
nology, isolation of specific materials, and develop- cial volumes to customers in the chemical industry.
ment of analytical methods for quality control and Dr. Lidert previously worked on developing safe
product certification. She has extensive knowledge herbicides and plant biotechnology products devel-
of the regulations, laboratory controls, and process opment. He received a PhD from Lund University,
validation requirements relevant to the cosmetic, Sweden.
pharmaceutical, and food supplement industries.
Paragon Chemicals. Inc.
Tagra Biotechnologies, Ltd. 269 Westwind Way, Dresher, PA 19025
Netanya, Israel Tel: [phone]
Tel: [phone], Fax: [phone] E-mail: