D K T G ORLING INDERSLEY RAVEL UIDES N P AAATIONAL ARKS B AZAARS M APS F H ORTS OTELS C 44 RAFTS 33 T EMPLES 77 22 11 88 99 F ESTIVVVALS 00 T G T S Y W O O T Y HE UIDES HAAAT HOW OU HAAAT THERS NLLLY ELL OU DDelhi,Agra and Jaipur Panipat NORTH OFDELHI Pages 136–145 H A R YA N A JAIPUR ANDENVIRONS Sikar Alwarr Pages 178–225 Nagaur JAIPUR R A JJJJJ A S T H A N SSaambhar Lakkkke JAIPUR AAAANNDD EENNVVIIRROONNSSSSS AAAjjmmeerr TToonnkk Udaipur 0 kilometres 110000 0 miles 50 AGRA ANDAROUND Pages 146–177 Dehra Dun OLDDELHI NORTH OF Pages 88–97 DELHI DELHI DDELHICITYCENTRE FURTHERAFIELD Pages 98–115 DDDDELHIII U TTTTT TA R G anges P RRRRR AAAAAAAAAAA DDDDD E S H RRRed FFFort OLD DEELLHI muna Connaugghht PPllace Ya Ya muna NNNEEWW DELHHII NIZAM– UDDIN MMaathura PUTROANA QILA AAGRA NEWDELHI Pages 66–79 Chambal Gwalior AGRA AND AROUND Jhannssi NPIZUARMAUNDADQINILTAO Pages 80–87 BBeettwwaa M A DDD HHHHHHHH YYYYYAAA P R A D E S H EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES DK EYEWITNESS TTTRAVEL GUIDES Main Contributors:ANURADHACHATURVEDI DHARMENDARKKKANWAR& RRRANJANASENGUPTA DK PUBLISHING PROJECTEDITOR Aruna Ghose ARTEDITOR Alpana Khare EDITORS Ira Pande, Madhulita Mohapatra, Razia Grover DESIGNERS Anand Naorem, Benu Joshi, Mugdha Sethi CARTOGRAPHY Uma Bhattacharya PICTUREEDITOR Radhika Singh MAINCONTRIBUTORS Anuradha Chaturvedi, Dharmendar Kanwar, Partho Datta, Premola Ghose, Ranjana Sengupta, Subhadra Sengupta PHOTOGRAPHERS Aditya Patankar, Amit Pashricha, Dinesh Khanna, A bullock-cart and mustard fields Fredrick & Laurence Arvidsson, Ram Rahman C ILLUSTRATORS ONTENTS Ajay Sethi, Ampersand, Ashok Sukumaran, Avinash, Dipankar Bhattacharya, Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore HOWTOUSETHIS Text film output by Express Colour Scan, Delhi GUIDE6 Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China First American Edition, 2000 Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2003 03 04 05 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Copyright © 2000, 2003 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ALLRIGHTSRESERVEDUNDERINTERNATIONALANDPPPANAMERICAN COPYRIGHTCONVENTIONS. NOPARTOFTHISPUBLICATIONMAYBE REPRODUCED,STOREDINARETRIEVALSYSTEM,ORTRANSMITTEDINANY FORMORBYANYMEANS,ELECTRONIC,MECHANICAL,PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDINGOROTHERWISE,WITHOUTTHEPRIORWRITTENPERMISSION OFTHECOPYRIGHTOWNER PUBLISHEDINGREATBRITAINBYDORLINGKINDERSLEYLIMITED Kishangarh miniature ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 0-7894-9717-4 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & ACCORDANTCHERWOIUTGHHEOUURTOTPHEAISNBUOSOAKG,E,FLIO.EO. R“SFIRASRTEFRLEOFOFERR”EDISTOONEINFLIGHTUP. JAIPUR PUTTINGDELHI,AAAGRA The information in this & JJJAIPURONTHEMAP Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date 10 as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging A PORTRAITOFDELHI, arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising AAAGRA& JJJAIPUR14 from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this DELHI,AAAGRA& JJJAIPUR book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: THROUGHTHEYEAR38 Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. THEHISTORYOFDELHI, The external boundaries of India as shown on the maps are AAAGRA& JJJAIPUR42 neither correct nor authentic. A view of Taj Mahal from the river BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA BEYONDDELHIATA GLANCE134 NORTHOFDELHI136 AAAGRAANDAROUND146 A sandstonejaali JJJAIPURANDEEENVIRONS178 ENTERTAINMENT270 SPORTSANDOUTDOOR AAACTIVITIES272 DELHI AREA BY AREA SURVIVAL GUIDE DELHIATAGLANCE 64 PRACTICAL INFORMATION278 NEWDELHI66 A ttrraaddiittiioonnaall thali TRAVELINFORMATION NIZAMUDDINTO 292 PURANAQILA80 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS GENERALINDEX OLDDELHI88 302 WWWHERETOSTAY228 FURTHERAFIELD98 AAACKNOWLEDGMENTS WWWHERETOEEEAT248 316 DDDAYTRIPSFROMDELHI 116 SHOPSANDMARKETS FURTHERREADING& GLOSSARY318 264 SHOPPINGINDELHI118 PHRASE ENTERTAINMENTIN BOOK320 DELHI120 DELHISTREETFINDER 122 Image of the young Krishna Humayun’s Tomb 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E H U G OW TO SE THIS UIDE THISGUIDEhelps you to get the maps, photographs and illustrations. most from your visit to the Features cover topics from music and region. It provides both detailed dance to food and festivals. Restaurant practical information and expert rec- and hotel recommendations can ommendations.Introducing Delhi, be found in Travellers’ Needs. The Agra and Jaipurmaps the region and Survival Guide has tips on everything sets it in its historical and cultural con- from transport to using the telephone, text. The three regional sections, plus and the Glossary explains Indian Delhi,describe important sights, using terms and words. DELHI DELHI 67 All pagesrelating to Delhi have The city is divided into NEWDELHI red thumb tabs. acFiphrueharaeptshrt,aee lerr . as AiAcgfh ihle atwlsddds.ti, t Ahcchl olia tvsspei gtoreshwr t,psn earr-e TEtbbnVpmlgihaveuermiiieclewncrsopese ain giwsriaImdHbtretonruehseeaaEeyde crne.nrat’ si rbsw atdOl Bat’o aynsh Rteninn i sHImeirnecT dnhge I naoIp c onsSscott uieHeih1pwdidfovsnr9efaeeniceiit1B caplcnrat. iU1l resiecos eaTi eIc eenasuLoleora, T ndsvf- pda ladeatbtiianNhonhnnnt uya1defdeetecn, l9sdew-3,1t h,D eteol hbGiae,rgoyalevencueeGsssar.ieH oeKtvteDpiaBsonuesit7r,nuai rrra eor1yagilsiyl c sne) alsaC2 t .w.v i 6nPJ oToMDeca aoaJhnnnonyeaarwesnump,nsan , pateN uaddhNpRu italeateihleeagerrte y.iaw ej ho ixsap daTsttt n nhasrD io niatPdtehac -ehlgtw l tt eRhlMa t , hstl heeecodewuMisp ee c n itsIu ,hs aune(op c bnterstudurrhhielordtmtiilheeeyeac--i A locator mapshows where nthuem cbhearpetde ra’sn dar epalo mtteadp .on SHaIRRVnnaaiiIdjjssadGpihtya aotP H rtCrGhaliaThpac4zoSat aeBwtis Au 6kBiTlh2daAivnaGgns,L1 SAtrNeCetEs GLTAMohraadtnre idGd aGitea raHnlerlsodesue ransineess dC omplex yaroeua sa roef itnh er eclaittyio cne ntotr eo.ther SIfoisonir glfdelohoeartwrsms yo s aa tntttoi h oa telh noG e ncol auamntnme ace peaear.scil cihisat tlss igthhet CLCMGNMNNLMJUSCKKaaihhohhaagebanooEukutnthnarorutdiinYssaSSaanoornrdphereetscurru rnnahecre myhseuM mnMuaahinMe p meilla gatopS’ ea A-eserhNnMG6bmfns nsk mr8ytB adRttau erat-–aPraoSiles 7ts9nrtalMtoleierd rayy diwelrueracaiaye mmlenTtr9 oM mkep0M5fmeuat iaptospsnenldue3imrs CR qEaSCEnNTdGTbtfhryyyyyyyyyyyyuhoeEsiqqqqmrseTRe AKs Ma,ATAVKAAAAAAAAAAAA MRCIrLSAatHIeihnjNaaed yG i b stC aewhxstoie svwl.l i Oskste.anrscv eeadre by aaa rlsmeo AFa nmoprur.eam aCerkba iMteesydyra e crpodeen nfae ttnrrheeden s lDciogeceh,a ltshstie igadhr teosn chapter’s sights by Street Finder map category: Mosques and (pages 122–31). Tombs, Museums and Galleries, Streets and India Gate and the elegant statue canopy designed by Lutyens Gardens, Historic Sites, 68 DELHI AREABYAREA 69 Monuments and Markets. Street-by-Street:Around Vijay Chowk Svitsairtosri nshdoicualtde mthies ss.ights that no NhCwtTwmmsfoshLauNoophanuepfioh aeiigslfntaadtrnnil ih tlcyhtocadtttiHsl reiihohio-enaeiss-fwaeE g aorl n t tpnlil dBiierIsluee HmuBusassin la rceaodebA’ olnaaspdsn tlprsl Rl,c vietS iold bi.dvcaeRakga setsd.neuEne iaIiro nnn pmNdaG dida gulis,ont din spa hvueoldT li tieeitasnmRsfetSaP nhr iftrpcElga,acaii sede Eeacrneasoaart l Lailnh oc vstlstEa akn h aitieheuSlltnortrdtesaSh neiena ou,C ei a eB l Gwddlr osataraa havoR efslfnwdRbOarlai d aosoctvwoaurUn,ahthw a psawnNyseieenih ty eDgc,n l lno t linhaidaSrId eas fnalaelo.b n.s ao psRdwcu yFrdw aoaaio sri ahtttojencstushpinhe sma vneaoB P aepemdI t ndhanhBniV t r iaRdatrnb–liivijiliao aiart aaslioicnymas’stnsiae hsirt nCegdy,r pw snaae.h br t rht oeNaro Heteeansrwt oeiiehrnsddlewke-tld ie s,lw nlnaote,re ovofebAlrae llponiaoskkki r-tshs oh.aifsa grfpVroeeaidrdjnea scfydaoo nuuCvidnrhststt oatatohwin2nakets STp1Sfeaiuh8acytintthsyuu e-igrrcdheeee nrs 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