Table Of Content

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL DELHI AGRA & JAIPUR EYEWITNESS TRAVEL DELHI AGRA & JAIPUR Main Contributors Anuradha Chaturvedi Dharmendar Kanwar & Ranjana Sengupta Project Editor Aruna Ghose Art Editor Alpana Khare Editors Ira Pande, Madhulita Mohapatra, Razia Grover Designers Anand Naorem, Benu Joshi, Mugdha Sethi Cartography Uma Bhattacharya Picture Editor Radhika Singh Main Contributors Anuradha Chaturvedi, Dharmendar Kanwar, Partho Datta, Premola Ghose, Ranjana Sengupta, Subhadra Sengupta Photographers A gathering at a village square in Rajasthan Aditya Patankar, Amit Pashricha, Dinesh Khanna, Fredrick & Laurence Arvidsson, Ram Rahman Contents Illustrators Ajay Sethi, Ampersand, Ashok Sukumaran, Avinash, How to Use This Guide 6 Dipankar Bhattacharya, Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner Printed and bound in China First Published in Great Britain in 2000 by Dorling Kindersley Limited, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2003, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015 Copyright 2000, 2015 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission Ganesha, the elephant-headed of the copyright owner. god of wisdom A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-24100-699-3 Introducing Floors are referred to throughout in Delhi, Agra accordance with British usage; ie the “first floor” & Jaipur is the floor above ground level. Great Days in Delhi, Agra & Jaipur 10 Putting Delhi, Agra & Jaipur on the Map 16 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. A Portrait of Delhi, Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, Agra & Jaipur 20 opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and Delhi, Agra & Jaipur cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of Through the Year 42 travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. The History of Delhi, Agra & Jaipur 46 Front cover main image: Hawa Mahal, or the “Palace of Winds”, in Jaipur Camels crossing the river by the Taj Mahal, Agra Beyond Delhi Area by Area Beyond Delhi at a Glance 138 North of Delhi 140 Agra and Around 150 A contemporary inlaid-marble platter Jaipur and Environs 182 Entertainment 264 Sports and Outdoor Activities 266 Delhi Area Survival Guide by Area Delhi at a Glance 68 Practical Information 272 New Delhi 70 Travel Information 286 Embroidered slippers Nizamuddin to Travellers’ Needs General Index 296 Purana Qila 84 Where to Stay 232 Acknowledgments 308 Old Delhi 92 Further Afield 102 Where to Eat Further Reading and Drink 242 & Glossary 310 Day Trips from Delhi 120 Shops and Markets 258 Phrase Book 312 Shopping in Delhi 122 Entertainment in Delhi 124 Delhi Street Finder 126 Portrait of Bani Thani, a Kishangarh miniature The Taj Mahal, Agra (cid:5) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most maps, photographs and illustrations. from your visit to the region. It provides Features cover topics from music and both detailed practical information and dance to food and festivals. Restaurant expert recommendations. Introducing and hotel recommendations can be found Delhi, Agra and Jaipur maps the region in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide has and sets it in its historical and cultural tips on everything from transport to using context. The three regional sections, plus the telephone, and the Glossary explains Delhi, describe important sights, using Indian terms and words. Delhi DELHI AREA BY AREA (cid:5) 71 All pages relating to Delhi have The city is divided into areas, each NEW DELHI red thumb tabs. wFsiugirththht siet.r sA Aolflwi esilngd ,hc chtosa vaperteres rn .p uAem rla ipbshte ecrehradal p ter, TaOboVasapvnnhifenc eaddetce hncIa nrB1mieumoodr9 eyiinuee3tns’iessp 1s.it swHhbK,het t eniue obonIrn dnuo ugsbdegs fisaelefniawtain c lctiNnodasihea wye ,ntecl ,hwt saiathsve thn haiiDi sleopldo o se gnrw eenbler.har cgsuaTvsiiano, rdta tesb-ddhneewae aent iuotemsy twtc ,sf’lr s rpittete va hrheeeeteeeri-n sci nl afii E dno1celm e9eeracmnndr1apbt1pc eiryre ieret , i a .n l pG2iiPcscsseoi6lr ataohocmy tJcunece’aseperl, nd J,imis ltasteu sy(h noxsian oreep sroean eytaBtsw ait pttimMhrlr h7 Rlia.acea5p aTv t n)rMjoRie.peo dT enastanihphus ntHsiehueevd, o ,b NeNin lrwue le aoaiaaschwtrrend ieteDo. hdi aDrnDnae .atgeyae hre l lsPeht evMpoa i eCc i riutIrusoaneys dlntd ets heuniutae rra mi a uc lt g ht Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s Sights at a Glance sights by category: Mosques and amicnhn anadAyaporpu elp.uo tmaE elcsaoa arreo,etct frtm o hiietncrh d aasmree kil goc laiaoinnphttryig o td stc nh hieeis ottrne owp et w rcsoare ehitw.sthsyahhee piertnn ortete te lrhod’sec a a rteea. 0H1246C3qM57erM9wSm0e ymhiaeuoas pueVRRICGULNNNJartnsndstaaoilraaaerg aaaesjsud1nceakosjtrnttuhrp,sihshymth iii aa2Soodarchma etseu, tC7r nn hGrtemr5edB sa 5hehsMaaiMnn7aer0 pu ioaSlla5’ tt tsaNea MGeimw0lnFs nl tmB Ciadaidnuktr arhlBaiid olas tonTeruheieyr lerrgiirauaa y c mvnsml h oa,M pM fn SoTER RuEMl tEfSaeH rsAnTR oese O edduMeCdiMGemtrRe srAEUnm aSaRG nACDnpHdErEtdAti NNo L LPTSniRbAl MarAKKazAR EUNEVA HTUOSITMSrL NORTH AVE aAHCEyITNN ED HsAAD IN ARA U LST B HLK HRMARMMCHAYCARAAeRAMOUI TH RGn GRUORMGR AtGtS0yT8G TOS RKRrPIRAI ahhOBEAAHAAI VIaR SINGH DMMAGl JA eN o G MA IJAJARrS LCKMR sGGM DTNAP TIDNAP dMCaehDp o ho S S car H ASteSdaHBsaraRUFn nrDtIeK rhSnmANO An ia denga tR dhUa JBdHGGAahsU saMCnwiMN AiIirMEyvDH GA ua ouiA EB HAEoaadaa N R mRASrNuaAO DSgOIjItngd NanMoNiAK UrHr N DMRhMcsK k eI RuSdO A GeGeBHHBte AnN sHRKRHAa AAT tRAFI AHMEPD KIDWAI MGAUNeGs OGAZR Hr ML lUGA A QGkrAaC S RG AZ DKAt A c eD NEoRM S Te RGPMB At A mL DAAR R sPC I IROP(O DKaITOUaMSh COpOIRNHGTBtNlARL3RoDNAVeNlIlADAIOD•LAwe eATA Il D1DRIARR N S ACODHUx ER LArM1RkSRFO R JLAA A LD Gi DA HTAPNAJ GS e JANPATH JD H NTRA AE s CL OR ETR ONOZR FR HOHA DJYARC EDAaAD ONDSIRAOE DRODnHIR UJ Nee RMWAOC DOpPAl w SUA1 hKKMSRZ aKDAG RA) D6i ED tS aGRT T h•S MBU AjXD1 M UHE RLiLHE RA MGvB S8RARA U DCOR SINGHAGHBAhASK NR 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 S MANHBoDHD A123456789AhH rw A012345678 HIi JiM d MvMRkA gGaHOABABDDEKKLLPSSSSTTVVWjeRANAiNI ro a amphel iae wiMhL G ehaDRanDg iAa trrvOvddOBeMiMAa HnEA nsRISaHiaqaMdcIs RoAAMKAeaEiNt C niatDD labiav elSN ur h kl eMn iHaGBra ah bt a haaBIeCdk D lPoARkiNuyDA Raa A nlnaiH GRAiM SeUCINREPOC Aihh’uTle h n s oRmD l GM SOIRAKrAM tlrYAaalse d o daAauuTRe2m POHSIBHCRA i a LBuTcnae cTtI8 b SU ehhvTusnhtT aIDI PMDeeKe sLaaAr i RRR AEG Ar rD vZCpKB drAn LReHNa KaOPBpa HYIs ORUnQDcr Ar2 TUtIHiIRM eYd RaAiLU 5&AlARASGAgAauRS0ND SkeAGM OGRr –AI RENaDGL5 rDMn i DAOFR AR2UHTAlM AltR G 1TSMotroAmFaoaD(epnorrernebeeuaetr lssm gahana,e a eM ileamunM ssSnsuomd 1atytsa srG2 epmbe pra6uae.ee n am–rCftdrder3e iskeF trM5 deneyian) s nnda.ac,dr dc Hnekoe eeGndinsr,t a tt s smlorl.toliehergica rceshiap ei Stgt s ise ,th ed ts s, The memorial at India Gate, bedecked with flowers on Navy Day For keys to symbols see back flap 72 (cid:5) DELHI AREA BY AREA NEW DELHI (cid:5) 73 Street-by-Street: Around Vijay Chowk Sshtaorusl din mdiiscsa.te the sights that no visitor TaaabsbBCathorssnhhNuohe e deitatnotoat hhh wvC srwgb,fte taa aooaihsaPahktC ntn punisl atr c,oeh Bhei rianorhwLtmnewoelvlett puoitni iehaaup srpsacytoa ,mnieo syuokl n loft a es reb pa Hrthsenteinsennonleh aain lcdegnnIbdslidseln.tn’ l osra etdapeno hy gshn ioea,tesa ridhdIwl a’ gngsiNt e n mh tdripca crodl-SiaeratPairau enaipiaecwlons,nsnrie i-eslnl intsdismnadataa haasbrlsimtelsddi lia ruooe ncnaaSe d Bsdifiritknltlt s.eo ,hdRano yvt tImdu a.odimeawiH nsNv nwjriaoitpgunpasndaovnu nam seai b ew ssl Rat rneaiintyh sseia .aerad a u setiturl s he ws oahtipa nsehhfalie fel ataeneiBolocrl r adH-rwfaoi giaIad rtniuoerlculi sls –dndfh ea hwf lid.iilnria ccavFdea d iaRreGrarreg.oleea l daiecsmn s tss ,o hv e tteas nrietV,lpls erelv ri a aejdwcfeapocstanye eialn ol tltdolitui o w sn esd, , 2Aofolavb pne e.arkllii osrt khVoo-iikfssj hs rafe aoaydp r gCe esrchadaonon fudwodrsu tkvt ntoihstntaaaeitn. s STrbao hIuusnuitindslnati eagn db hGedayarnba tiaer toBdl ypua fitcreg uwachrativutllhirVene adag yo u sSsf iBat marhyelaylpe viLladteun l Ste1yaa8ehdtnhisbs -t’.cs oS ea hanva tepudnircyuy tte umrser.eeosssq qauUBurhedeeay v oagn ihnlataevnreRdsdnesou ccfuroBtaiinnrepo gadwenu adslout b arirnfkoorueceaulh rldayst. 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(cid:5) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA (cid:5) 141 NORTH OF DELHI LpIcleatyinrsttoi iernheisrcgsip shM otebeourfed ortsti huclwtihaemse le r Ie aen arnngden digutdoh is mnoEe V un yiGasr ta lohahlnepnoedyegll od aaecg nnostio dncaf oa tnbtrrlhdei tbpes Ytua haeastnemaet drdeclu yrx ctna toiAedta irn ilertyeidssav . os rneEe ffr amsrIsnoce, hadtmthtr ilcka ietsuanhm lba tecgeul ieavnrr ienidtcl sicuihz vitlaeaetotnsur i tsotrhi anbtely.lr y.i c k 1ITnhtero ladnudcstcioapne , history BAereyao nbdy ADreelhai and character of each TmIAstaMisrsmsHIWHeannneouhotsghxsaiTadddmaiio wlcc o ritlwlortttslnsuiiihihniheueicaant ad ,mhyv sti us’’nualtssintsahwdt an ihh tmo nlredt gmmewtse dsieaieaf uaiest wur eri-pna nh t oolsvrvp wsa nhmaar coleciesespweracltlneeattaienrrl l sceh olstesotaidnidahat ntehnee eapn nnh,ct noeo s,Rr tn rr edo aha, dn eflnei mrifbdyrchdrrsnioiasssocd,ese hhr a. reftrocatl iima tiea Sci nsottblvonaikidnyho ninikctrern dnealc edao yeteodgp rscsiecfvir,,b em cnlta .hoknfpmeedoierln otyid,uopm ninars a ft ltupweari gcauuhlti tmao nidft urectcxrrlahoe ropuaeiititrrhctpnms eerhessotuard hhtueodovpe r eirrtr esifirdaeifsoter hetn iepcf otes,elat ta nre gahsaoeMohhodwwc u. enhr ecfprteeu men u nactutoasso l ssa lSaia Ggstsrnalt r fsyea h,isu yh roahnd. luol dk ieb anfvas ecf sl. fagd hte l se i r k.ss , Ttgb(BiobepotnSTfRMisdrsehouahteffoeoael eTreae hner giatttreedwodmndcaeithh io tghbchr lspeshhro terewoos aflu oihpe aaoartas ,hcsv aVyth oe1tenqranrakt,eaot de g6 at rod at dnrIdedaeborKt6thonef, y e onr aeuf–uaGlaett dbs ecahrpdstoH7nrss iietedi aseutaeys) sifahdia lcSn n op nnk i wienNtvmeM e u. sdhco ihdsxtdeTcavoehr,ioa ip eau ah ese nstlhredbUhwlrrtho t tn.edawkpoto eyahapPaeur tbn enewhtddbat raani nIttsfooels anhie nelan dea lwde a b oosavfdt,ohiinv osntepsesnBfesirifeia thd aa udeodr taNleohsvtr ohta ,stg, cp uh gwar e tatl,,pdatto t ihhrhc eu rthhea(hthastmnmhshe ty nmas,eiIwdece snae takde eafcahp rihmu eaid nee nnSlsss lpaioeEemlsnligi a,tde1anatStK t usg H emh 4tdnok o gerclr ei ii5eaiooi fe eusenrenMb ) nho pnn d,ssnv tdyws anou eth a.e ai rc. aatelhe rar ir, nny .e en yrdde, rshcteoheag onsoi wtodffuneeirn rivie gsets o loh oa utopnhtwedleidn wtv ehoihsdeviat ehaotr rer iet trth aeoh e, da sa y . Abeccahinaeptciadeaehpn rsot t, o dtetfhfrori o.vew wTimrdhh npe eisDcld ahmae cin lnehohdtsasio , ts vtt o tiihalnh l evatsr iegeesrreeepietg s aasa,ir tror aieennta eg sh , as numbered on a Regional Map. 184 (cid:5) BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS (cid:5) 185 AETcpmSnAPtslswRrK 00ioa ii aemhakeaaoraltthomiowwpeeysmlrnxiilraolsaik eds HMMRStdimcCatnpo stc hto ashhiehapoaaaeirgihsfieand,eldttjirra r hl ofreose,araiaoo neae ewmsor ttrAoats bkl fs sopre frsadfbt oopsbojotoa bS yihrmooAar2 u atuassdiirah5dudescwtfm,emeilane r laoa aaartlrdselrgchlevrtb pi lpihreeaeyanraeefne ii,dn untp glsrracwngo2.d itlerns atc5 oTegrrimoa .rhnndi Poysr Tmcoa,i dtcu eo ctuSt nltdee isdh eJhctlnmJdelharhieymeaerged rake Bi enik ssvt pa tpb daoatto“hiaurigralngerir.ueale eeprt yeeSnrkwst,e’vasu rwoh eiai, a an sa ,nsouuwana en latgac otfntdifredrn he hdor”taedr s Tnhtc eorcbr tt hottt ettehai,mah.ut hUr anap saeyezAeadets,kra ad oagrP,reb n,or sSaBy ai wefr oUpateftare va loJuhsrnythJairdSanaog hraifowecailsH idulMBilieepn nkeaoipa as nK raud dtuAttEun,t deht AorNKw dsNrKri x em aw aatIn R ihRatSRnhs tciiitHsoAeplwrettie avohorirANa Kv ebopen reuNAia aaslitadcAd nssGrhlig Jv aAaoMmeLrRFah aaHc EnBnShtSBRoeAhAihskmsLaMpaSTnauana BnrreLAwgHrARraaaaAKrirCmhnREhSguMiaTkrSKOHruaaJUhaEDuRnrKsHnRudKeAidWraSeaAuewkTIGwAraiaPaDnauolJsPLNnBraDuhdahnAetulwDeauTovlsoeBluadlirdMalmhASgaJnahPaaGr auuRhrlTUpRhnaaKKudUNigjCBshorhaiiiHaaHuSntmiapgaRnAgnOeuaMiuhdnMrrrJMCaSeAagAhTlAoOaTUaiOInaKsrNDPardNNhBNlwGUEaaeaaNKTtanAgRrihwamTiNarha nEKoraRaiaHNinAaCgwUMoHanSnARiPhiBiBTaaBaaaKauJrGJsEc(T(wErmAhNshasstSnauohxipRaeeoPagiIUegippBsRaebupeerrnaahtoan cgrre ABrupppPeatgna hharaIrtT2ri2asKpulNfraLoShe’nias8hsl9ulaoaBarD s )s91goslarrt MRc sHtaic )afE)rSiosDPN e r.rAtokvaoAA RIotupT arLanoAonfatGmNNuhoIrfdlBuSneiniTsoeAnrGaTaaE rr teISMD Wos u nR RrAHOltciA reushse(HnHiAthuRtAs NWxl eahrhtetHdDu h tMAeSetiAor H reSB yAtlfiLPIsoBap Oe tcri RhJan nh aPHiJPitrntnIgiakehAaUylSOd d ia ortA CpMKrRoRGtoo nneRoRRDKuilNLuAuaKuditegoh AEeSyrrWlaaDgrrai hala Ty ns o aGJhNkEh(kanie aGdMrjisAnfahxraKd eloleaPMatnh eAp rSahiRR uheiriasgrrasih ariRh at.auewl appe iwraTbaAHjpn oso2akdenaeiust dps8rglberAs rl-tau6aa-athcsygM hr) nrBeoe ,arh eRaadhranxnettai npmh dSljioKedanulhioHntadsr iaartrrit o nWoeawthtnauoddyaohblaeuaM inb ueddlr a niTyeco isl o tolt ursasBuom xL awaraurifkdsirohemy. r ion t .front of AmberA S1234567890qwrtyuiopasdP saialg caTSBSBBCSSCSJAARSMKPARIrncaoea((uaaaaihaaahialmjehhlssswmdadiinwmnmrgisjnapeeshoargt ikehbtaksgaeeenrteukamasaraobkurhke trrrasagnrgnppi ra a hrdh a u((nanukhM( appgas s(rs ema N a esea rert22ea(r ahethe sera 12e br d eSaeG h t48pphp eaaihp ––oppol pGlpotpt19n22ar1 pp2e5)L1a2l8 02aa)u02lN6 42kP–r–n–a –0ea152t–c7 r1i)0ok )2e)3 n1 )a) l Park Eisd2haeocnwhtR iTaoAaaacnafieanlnrh vrelsoelerdgeddi on s iaa nnri b agtvousnctuhyhrieaisnde oevmineort awe uesi pfwnbb slusnc use oeMtsloaid idb rqtfnlnto,e eia luhtpg itu dhcipfihelsc rrl peo euk tacorr nll onoswyaarnttd edacn r chiggade nsototpiseg hvoenl e,toete ndetor rr.ir t nte bewv.g gyaiso riti oertok n , . 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wiuaoraveilm heear“) Ttutraia Air esoRfn epaoksd ete ba8jcntoki tnor5ltdabeseraagalalhp vgOt ni aijo an.r y lta(nants( 1n ,Fci hducr pjeissiiFmha g1r*sBeligaabaaltrdccdennC1l)ilisore Re , rn sys6nax s,ataa Iddn uwe t ty -e r hrd tb n niThawt0ea2n ohCcvlatnweentSEun thiyhiri edners5h–om nfous i3ea nirojeo g.ltmiewltdeas’eao l, pch et9ysMedc , £e aimdmtymm td0t ntahasjrolC,abor (a8ea”hop dia l.ni h n 7me(l ar-aJmp )lnpp Cn.necrpTspiuIJ tls.e Ha B h a3crittaot o (iifuoemhsris@tW ha)llilkssitses-e oaeir,o tdeaa,aol)e5 pflsublpq i E e m doi a–rsdeGstn erxgotugyi-f nm0o coHruoc uriJirBokAhi t C xiwogelaro0Mosonmf(ceahSartnswi rirra0iu oumatlde nkt . mdvnadimoa neCdsgKtem eFarnr1oiynng aargle idpeslva)mts rwiesvvhdij4 ,,enL oatlo) e, ea rtda-awDe e lo.(MEiseia1sh j a–is nsfucrsfpI,rrolu4nroc lt en)ecn ni”irkSteRSeah i nIr ayiolh0r)stp tClyi2fh vaeeepeTRduht, k yee itT h n,ok2nacntmtao ttD dhi.)e dp .ora h e0mis lh,lee el,a aCn a4f B.oefw n et .rp,or 2 u r t d. e) rr. ,j For keys to symbols see back flap 158 (cid:5) BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA TAJ MAHAL (cid:5) 159 Taj Mahal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST OMSIhaorlatu hfasnpba p vatpeoohheeh eeuaeeo brJmlr sf fIaece seta,hdoelh canaam ntefm dn ow pd mw ,ri5 roce aooa0en snglpr0mcmdldao drke oriorM’bdisrtrl.s” oeaieT.m udftoTrdhtsn eom2neh eo olmMa2oissi cstfsf s ifaa tba a yla gis “omtttzpgrnfeo aehhusoba fraaMdl iet eeebymnmlplhrrae d e ragalseacrn oa i .orSta lasdm hxertteyhAcrcuby oqiaa atvrsrbeereolse l ueeleaeo cl , rteodM gbveri,o,owuhons ce nacaum miniu ukaitso rli v snedbgdl ps fdid s ahetsc2l.i ievnnrano0aotlg-e,ne ft0uestao ,0si m,rrat mimt0l t yhipde nb wae4e r w,n1e 1orTaosa6i arnfmhmrk5ej ie 3i .pim ,lr .l si ao gne TTishh ceea p4D4po-emmd e(w14it4h- fat )f idnoiaul.ble dome Menatirna nce is tphNheao pmtooegodrla rapefhftleeerdc i PTOCMOCttssasrllipp atooj at tlhMeehosscinonneetetagitddu hc61st saaaoa0oFp-vlmlranmsu. i Im.Th( b n–1t&ebahl–87filc.po e–p5 (A 0rep2 hm=mm5l7dmom 6 lSa Fas f2 TuSore_.ot )b&uhinb suo2lnt–)een3.n T T–e M3tbLahTva joh0euu ein4un.str e9u. yc su8 hspvm. iPohs:ou eitrtooesrl., rSetloarteyd b tooxpeicss e.xplore liprgerhfotltehv Rtcieodaeti ercgmt eh iidnvsyeeelssa ecpttiidhhdcPthe a aipas nlwtr ahaocgnuhthmianerielalqbgess. 4The region’s top sights Iiwai.ntnu ittstshr phPitceei irpa ereletortdee row lacbyki h oy Dcoi uattufeh rsarv emas eb tpdoaea nrjfebrleaowlsder ea eissllm ulede rdbgefas eaccirlgaledinss etkhsone it ,tn gh.lieav ied Tfuhlel psea gaeres .g Hivisetno rtiwc bo uoirld minogrse Taj Mahal Mii.sn upa Tml adoctamaerzkdb Mc nCreayhxhpatat m tlb’osbe cSleeohrnwaoh, ta Jarapeh hca,l nora’ssi.es Tdehd te oo a ntch taeu papllu agbtrfloaicvrm.es,, YamRuivnear 123hs(btK1hyiyEg3me TPFa1hY whom l lcifieuntgahe) rttCh ht hhemrhtariyigastni rn orhgoib,af ff aart trethnghahtemhdese , pw c ceReoer aiaotvrmhscfwe eehiprrnc rtJl4tieeoag 0dxmma .m t bue ,nd a b.y CTvgsuuehneabretilsfslt oeis lgheriszmr iigeoan lphpoycet rhffie rclti,oa chacws lerP eei ilaKsnlau 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Delhi, Agra & Jaipur PDF

314 Pages·2015·56.64 MB·English
by  Anuradha Chaturvedi
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL DELHI AGRA & JAIPUR EYEWITNESS TRAVEL DELHI AGRA & JAIPUR Main Contributors Anuradha Chaturvedi Dharmendar Kanwar & Ranjana Sengupta Project Editor Aruna Ghose Art Editor Alpana Khare Editors Ira Pande, Madhulita Mohapatra, Razia Grover Designers Anand Naorem, Benu Joshi, Mugdha Sethi Cartography Uma Bhattacharya Picture Editor Radhika Singh Main Contributors Anuradha Chaturvedi, Dharmendar Kanwar, Partho Datta, Premola Ghose, Ranjana Sengupta, Subhadra Sengupta Photographers A gathering at a village square in Rajasthan Aditya Patankar, Amit Pashricha, Dinesh Khanna, Fredrick & Laurence Arvidsson, Ram Rahman Contents Illustrators Ajay Sethi, Ampersand, Ashok Sukumaran, Avinash, How to Use This Guide 6 Dipankar Bhattacharya, Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner Printed and bound in China First Published in Great Britain in 2000 by Dorling Kindersley Limited, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2003, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015 Copyright 2000, 2015 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission Ganesha, the elephant-headed of the copyright owner. god of wisdom A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-24100-699-3 Introducing Floors are referred to throughout in Delhi, Agra accordance with British usage; ie the “first floor” & Jaipur is the floor above ground level. Great Days in Delhi, Agra & Jaipur 10 Putting Delhi, Agra & Jaipur on the Map 16 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. A Portrait of Delhi, Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, Agra & Jaipur 20 opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and Delhi, Agra & Jaipur cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of Through the Year 42 travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. The History of Delhi, Agra & Jaipur 46 Front cover main image: Hawa Mahal, or the “Palace of Winds”, in Jaipur Camels crossing the river by the Taj Mahal, Agra Beyond Delhi Area by Area Beyond Delhi at a Glance 138 North of Delhi 140 Agra and Around 150 A contemporary inlaid-marble platter Jaipur and Environs 182 Entertainment 264 Sports and Outdoor Activities 266 Delhi Area Survival Guide by Area Delhi at a Glance 68 Practical Information 272 New Delhi 70 Travel Information 286 Embroidered slippers Nizamuddin to Travellers’ Needs General Index 296 Purana Qila 84 Where to Stay 232 Acknowledgments 308 Old Delhi 92 Further Afield 102 Where to Eat Further Reading and Drink 242 & Glossary 310 Day Trips from Delhi 120 Shops and Markets 258 Phrase Book 312 Shopping in Delhi 122 Entertainment in Delhi 124 Delhi Street Finder 126 Portrait of Bani Thani, a Kishangarh miniature The Taj Mahal, Agra (cid:5) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most maps, photographs and illustrations. from your visit to the region. It provides Features cover topics from music and both detailed practical information and dance to food and festivals. Restaurant expert recommendations. Introducing and hotel recommendations can be found Delhi, Agra and Jaipur maps the region in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide has and sets it in its historical and cultural tips on everything from transport to using context. The three regional sections, plus the telephone, and the Glossary explains Delhi, describe important sights, using Indian terms and words. Delhi DELHI AREA BY AREA (cid:5) 71 All pages relating to Delhi have The city is divided into areas, each NEW DELHI red thumb tabs. wFsiugirththht siet.r sA Aolflwi esilngd ,hc chtosa vaperteres rn .p uAem rla ipbshte ecrehradal p ter, TaOboVasapvnnhifenc eaddetce hncIa nrB1mieumoodr9 eyiinuee3tns’iessp 1s.it swHhbK,het t eniue obonIrn dnuo ugsbdegs fisaelefniawtain c lctiNnodasihea wye ,ntecl ,hwt saiathsve thn haiiDi sleopldo o se gnrw eenbler.har cgsuaTvsiiano, rdta tesb-ddhneewae aent iuotemsy twtc ,sf’lr s rpittete va hrheeeeteeeri-n sci nl afii E dno1celm e9eeracmnndr1apbt1pc eiryre ieret , i a .n l pG2iiPcscsseoi6lr ataohocmy tJcunece’aseperl, nd J,imis ltasteu sy(h noxsian oreep sroean eytaBtsw ait pttimMhrlr h7 Rlia.acea5p aTv t n)rMjoRie.peo dT enastanihphus ntHsiehueevd, o ,b NeNin lrwue le aoaiaaschwtrrend ieteDo. hdi aDrnDnae .atgeyae hre l lsPeht evMpoa i eCc i riutIrusoaneys dlntd ets heuniutae rra mi a uc lt g ht Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s Sights at a Glance sights by category: Mosques and amicnhn anadAyaporpu elp.uo tmaE elcsaoa arreo,etct frtm o hiietncrh d aasmree kil goc laiaoinnphttryig o td stc nh hieeis ottrne owp et w rcsoare ehitw.sthsyahhee piertnn ortete te lrhod’sec a a rteea. 0H1246C3qM57erM9wSm0e ymhiaeuoas pueVRRICGULNNNJartnsndstaaoilraaaerg aaaesjsud1nceakosjtrnttuhrp,sihshymth iii aa2Soodarchma etseu, tC7r nn hGrtemr5edB sa 5hehsMaaiMnn7aer0 pu ioaSlla5’ tt tsaNea MGeimw0lnFs nl tmB Ciadaidnuktr arhlBaiid olas tonTeruheieyr lerrgiirauaa y c mvnsml h oa,M pM fn SoTER RuEMl tEfSaeH rsAnTR oese O edduMeCdiMGemtrRe srAEUnm aSaRG nACDnpHdErEtdAti NNo L LPTSniRbAl MarAKKazAR EUNEVA HTUOSITMSrL NORTH AVE aAHCEyITNN ED HsAAD IN ARA U LST B HLK HRMARMMCHAYCARAAeRAMOUI TH RGn GRUORMGR AtGtS0yT8G TOS RKRrPIRAI ahhOBEAAHAAI VIaR SINGH DMMAGl JA eN o G MA IJAJARrS LCKMR sGGM DTNAP TIDNAP dMCaehDp o ho S S car H ASteSdaHBsaraRUFn nrDtIeK rhSnmANO An ia denga tR dhUa JBdHGGAahsU saMCnwiMN AiIirMEyvDH GA ua ouiA EB HAEoaadaa N R mRASrNuaAO DSgOIjItngd NanMoNiAK UrHr N DMRhMcsK k eI RuSdO A GeGeBHHBte AnN sHRKRHAa AAT tRAFI AHMEPD KIDWAI MGAUNeGs OGAZR Hr ML lUGA A QGkrAaC S RG AZ DKAt A c eD NEoRM S Te RGPMB At A mL DAAR R sPC I IROP(O DKaITOUaMSh COpOIRNHGTBtNlARL3RoDNAVeNlIlADAIOD•LAwe eATA Il D1DRIARR N S ACODHUx ER LArM1RkSRFO R JLAA A LD Gi DA HTAPNAJ GS e JANPATH JD H NTRA AE s CL OR ETR ONOZR FR HOHA DJYARC EDAaAD ONDSIRAOE DRODnHIR UJ Nee RMWAOC DOpPAl w SUA1 hKKMSRZ aKDAG RA) D6i ED tS aGRT T h•S MBU AjXD1 M UHE RLiLHE RA MGvB S8RARA U DCOR SINGHAGHBAhASK NR 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 S MANHBoDHD A123456789AhH rw A012345678 HIi JiM d MvMRkA gGaHOABABDDEKKLLPSSSSTTVVWjeRANAiNI ro a amphel iae wiMhL G ehaDRanDg iAa trrvOvddOBeMiMAa HnEA nsRISaHiaqaMdcIs RoAAMKAeaEiNt C niatDD labiav elSN ur h kl eMn iHaGBra ah bt a haaBIeCdk D lPoARkiNuyDA Raa A nlnaiH GRAiM SeUCINREPOC Aihh’uTle h n s oRmD l GM SOIRAKrAM tlrYAaalse d o daAauuTRe2m POHSIBHCRA i a LBuTcnae cTtI8 b SU ehhvTusnhtT aIDI PMDeeKe sLaaAr i RRR AEG Ar rD vZCpKB drAn LReHNa KaOPBpa HYIs ORUnQDcr Ar2 TUtIHiIRM eYd RaAiLU 5&AlARASGAgAauRS0ND SkeAGM OGRr –AI RENaDGL5 rDMn i DAOFR AR2UHTAlM AltR G 1TSMotroAmFaoaD(epnorrernebeeuaetr lssm gahana,e a eM ileamunM ssSnsuomd 1atytsa srG2 epmbe pra6uae.ee n am–rCftdrder3e iskeF trM5 deneyian) s nnda.ac,dr dc Hnekoe eeGndinsr,t a tt s smlorl.toliehergica rceshiap ei Stgt s ise ,th ed ts s, The memorial at India Gate, bedecked with flowers on Navy Day For keys to symbols see back flap 72 (cid:5) DELHI AREA BY AREA NEW DELHI (cid:5) 73 Street-by-Street: Around Vijay Chowk Sshtaorusl din mdiiscsa.te the sights that no visitor TaaabsbBCathorssnhhNuohe e deitatnotoat hhh wvC srwgb,fte taa aooaihsaPahktC ntn punisl atr c,oeh Bhei rianorhwLtmnewoelvlett puoitni iehaaup srpsacytoa ,mnieo syuokl n loft a es reb pa Hrthsenteinsennonleh aain lcdegnnIbdslidseln.tn’ l osra etdapeno hy gshn ioea,tesa ridhdIwl a’ gngsiNt e n mh tdripca crodl-SiaeratPairau enaipiaecwlons,nsnrie i-eslnl intsdismnadataa haasbrlsimtelsddi lia ruooe ncnaaSe d Bsdifiritknltlt s.eo ,hdRano yvt tImdu a.odimeawiH nsNv nwjriaoitpgunpasndaovnu nam seai b ew ssl Rat rneaiintyh sseia .aerad a u setiturl s he ws oahtipa nsehhfalie fel ataeneiBolocrl r adH-rwfaoi giaIad rtniuoerlculi sls –dndfh ea hwf lid.iilnria ccavFdea d iaRreGrarreg.oleea l daiecsmn s tss ,o hv e tteas nrietV,lpls erelv ri a aejdwcfeapocstanye eialn ol tltdolitui o w sn esd, , 2Aofolavb pne e.arkllii osrt khVoo-iikfssj hs rafe aoaydp r gCe esrchadaonon fudwodrsu tkvt ntoihstntaaaeitn. s STrbao hIuusnuitindslnati eagn db hGedayarnba tiaer toBdl ypua fitcreg uwachrativutllhirVene adag yo u sSsf iBat marhyelaylpe viLladteun l Ste1yaa8ehdtnhisbs -t’.cs oS ea hanva tepudnircyuy tte umrser.eeosssq qauUBurhedeeay v oagn ihnlataevnreRdsdnesou ccfuroBtaiinnrepo gadwenu adslout b arirnfkoorueceaulh rldayst. 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(cid:5) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA (cid:5) 141 NORTH OF DELHI LpIcleatyinrsttoi iernheisrcgsip shM otebeourfed ortsti huclwtihaemse le r Ie aen arnngden digutdoh is mnoEe V un yiGasr ta lohahlnepnoedyegll od aaecg nnostio dncaf oa tnbtrrlhdei tbpes Ytua haeastnemaet drdeclu yrx ctna toiAedta irn ilertyeidssav . os rneEe ffr amsrIsnoce, hadtmthtr ilcka ietsuanhm lba tecgeul ieavnrr ienidtcl sicuihz vitlaeaetotnsur i tsotrhi anbtely.lr y.i c k 1ITnhtero ladnudcstcioapne , history BAereyao nbdy ADreelhai and character of each TmIAstaMisrsmsHIWHeannneouhotsghxsaiTadddmaiio wlcc o ritlwlortttslnsuiiihihniheueicaant ad ,mhyv sti us’’nualtssintsahwdt an ihh tmo nlredt gmmewtse dsieaieaf uaiest wur eri-pna nh t oolsvrvp wsa nhmaar coleciesespweracltlneeattaienrrl l sceh olstesotaidnidahat ntehnee eapn nnh,ct noeo s,Rr tn rr edo aha, dn eflnei mrifbdyrchdrrsnioiasssocd,ese hhr a. reftrocatl iima tiea Sci nsottblvonaikidnyho ninikctrern dnealc edao yeteodgp rscsiecfvir,,b em cnlta .hoknfpmeedoierln otyid,uopm ninars a ft ltupweari gcauuhlti tmao nidft urectcxrrlahoe ropuaeiititrrhctpnms eerhessotuard hhtueodovpe r eirrtr esifirdaeifsoter hetn iepcf otes,elat ta nre gahsaoeMohhodwwc u. enhr ecfprteeu men u nactutoasso l ssa lSaia Ggstsrnalt r fsyea h,isu yh roahnd. luol dk ieb anfvas ecf sl. fagd hte l se i r k.ss , Ttgb(BiobepotnSTfRMisdrsehouahteffoeoael eTreae hner giatttreedwodmndcaeithh io tghbchr lspeshhro terewoos aflu oihpe aaoartas ,hcsv aVyth oe1tenqranrakt,eaot de g6 at rod at dnrIdedaeborKt6thonef, y e onr aeuf–uaGlaett dbs ecahrpdstoH7nrss iietedi aseutaeys) sifahdia lcSn n op nnk i wienNtvmeM e u. sdhco ihdsxtdeTcavoehr,ioa ip eau ah ese nstlhredbUhwlrrtho t tn.edawkpoto eyahapPaeur tbn enewhtddbat raani nIttsfooels anhie nelan dea lwde a b oosavfdt,ohiinv osntepsesnBfesirifeia thd aa udeodr taNleohsvtr ohta ,stg, cp uh gwar e tatl,,pdatto t ihhrhc eu rthhea(hthastmnmhshe ty nmas,eiIwdece snae takde eafcahp rihmu eaid nee nnSlsss lpaioeEemlsnligi a,tde1anatStK t usg H emh 4tdnok o gerclr ei ii5eaiooi fe eusenrenMb ) nho pnn d,ssnv tdyws anou eth a.e ai rc. aatelhe rar ir, nny .e en yrdde, rshcteoheag onsoi wtodffuneeirn rivie gsets o loh oa utopnhtwedleidn wtv ehoihsdeviat ehaotr rer iet trth aeoh e, da sa y . 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wiuaoraveilm heear“) Ttutraia Air esoRfn epaoksd ete ba8jcntoki tnor5ltdabeseraagalalhp vgOt ni aijo an.r y lta(nants( 1n ,Fci hducr pjeissiiFmha g1r*sBeligaabaaltrdccdennC1l)ilisore Re , rn sys6nax s,ataa Iddn uwe t ty -e r hrd tb n niThawt0ea2n ohCcvlatnweentSEun thiyhiri edners5h–om nfous i3ea nirojeo g.ltmiewltdeas’eao l, pch et9ysMedc , £e aimdmtymm td0t ntahasjrolC,abor (a8ea”hop dia l.ni h n 7me(l ar-aJmp )lnpp Cn.necrpTspiuIJ tls.e Ha B h a3crittaot o (iifuoemhsris@tW ha)llilkssitses-e oaeir,o tdeaa,aol)e5 pflsublpq i E e m doi a–rsdeGstn erxgotugyi-f nm0o coHruoc uriJirBokAhi t C xiwogelaro0Mosonmf(ceahSartnswi rirra0iu oumatlde nkt . mdvnadimoa neCdsgKtem eFarnr1oiynng aargle idpeslva)mts rwiesvvhdij4 ,,enL oatlo) e, ea rtda-awDe e lo.(MEiseia1sh j a–is nsfucrsfpI,rrolu4nroc lt en)ecn ni”irkSteRSeah i nIr ayiolh0r)stp tClyi2fh vaeeepeTRduht, k yee itT h n,ok2nacntmtao ttD dhi.)e dp .ora h e0mis lh,lee el,a aCn a4f B.oefw n et .rp,or 2 u r t d. e) rr. ,j For keys to symbols see back flap 158 (cid:5) BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA TAJ MAHAL (cid:5) 159 Taj Mahal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST OMSIhaorlatu hfasnpba p vatpeoohheeh eeuaeeo brJmlr sf fIaece seta,hdoelh canaam ntefm dn ow pd mw ,ri5 roce aooa0en snglpr0mcmdldao drke oriorM’bdisrtrl.s” oeaieT.m udftoTrdhtsn eom2neh eo olmMa2oissi cstfsf s ifaa tba a yla gis “omtttzpgrnfeo aehhusoba fraaMdl iet eeebymnmlplhrrae d e ragalseacrn oa i .orSta lasdm hxertteyhAcrcuby oqiaa atvrsrbeereolse l ueeleaeo cl , rteodM gbveri,o,owuhons ce nacaum miniu ukaitso rli v snedbgdl ps fdid s ahetsc2l.i ievnnrano0aotlg-e,ne ft0uestao ,0si m,rrat mimt0l t yhipde nb wae4e r w,n1e 1orTaosa6i arnfmhmrk5ej ie 3i .pim ,lr .l si ao gne TTishh ceea p4D4po-emmd e(w14it4h- fat )f idnoiaul.ble dome Menatirna nce is tphNheao pmtooegodrla rapefhftleeerdc i PTOCMOCttssasrllipp atooj at tlhMeehosscinonneetetagitddu hc61st saaaoa0oFp-vlmlranmsu. i Im.Th( b n–1t&ebahl–87filc.po e–p5 (A 0rep2 hm=mm5l7dmom 6 lSa Fas f2 TuSore_.ot )b&uhinb suo2lnt–)een3.n T T–e M3tbLahTva joh0euu ein4un.str e9u. yc su8 hspvm. iPohs:ou eitrtooesrl., rSetloarteyd b tooxpeicss e.xplore liprgerhfotltehv Rtcieodaeti ercgmt eh iidnvsyeeelssa ecpttiidhhdcPthe a aipas nlwtr ahaocgnuhthmianerielalqbgess. 4The region’s top sights Iiwai.ntnu ittstshr phPitceei irpa ereletortdee row lacbyki h oy Dcoi uattufeh rsarv emas eb tpdoaea nrjfebrleaowlsder ea eissllm ulede rdbgefas eaccirlgaledinss etkhsone it ,tn gh.lieav ied Tfuhlel psea gaeres .g Hivisetno rtiwc bo uoirld minogrse Taj Mahal Mii.sn upa Tml adoctamaerzkdb Mc nCreayhxhpatat m tlb’osbe cSleeohrnwaoh, ta Jarapeh hca,l nora’ssi.es Tdehd te oo a ntch taeu papllu agbtrfloaicvrm.es,, YamRuivnear 123hs(btK1hyiyEg3me TPFa1hY whom l lcifieuntgahe) rttCh ht hhemrhtariyigastni rn orhgoib,af ff aart trethnghahtemhdese , pw c ceReoer aiaotvrmhscfwe eehiprrnc rtJl4tieeoag 0dxmma .m t bue ,nd a b.y CTvgsuuehneabretilsfslt oeis lgheriszmr iigeoan lphpoycet rhffie rclti,oa chacws lerP eei ilaKsnlau nogatsiers nisao ltgcnshnr itie cpoh atfe .ra c h 2 514 3 K 12345 eMMM CGy(hagaeaatCChisuenrjhemiebw dnTasaa oartt(gbhmnrymahaoklobhg uislahslquenus)ate r )ation aitswnohrietwote hwdrn iisosnsi srgo siehnr. c Tt catshie tbpedy ii mrcctdokeo’es nrs-detetr v eoyienesua t atvel ri rteeeh wseti,i rn g and described.

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