Vivek Singh David Thompson Mahmood Akbar Corinne Trang Sri Owen Das Sreedharan Vivek Singh David Thompson Mahmood Akbar Corinne Trang Sri Owen Das curry Fragrant dishes from India, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia curry curry Fragrant dishes from India, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia LONDON NEW YORK MUNICH MELBOURNE DELHI Commissioning Editor Art Director Jeni Wright Peter Luff Project Manager and Editor Creative Publisher Norma Macmillan Mary-Clare Jerram Senior Art Editor Operations Publishing Manager Susan Downing Gillian Roberts Senior Editor Publisher Dawn Henderson Corinne Roberts Project Art Editor DTP Designers Caroline de Souza Adam Walker, Traci Salter Designers Production Controller Sue Storey, Simon Daley Stuart Masheter Editorial Assistant Photographer Zoe Moore Hugh Johnson First published in Great Britain in 2006 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Penguin Group (UK) Copyright © 2006 Dorling Kindersley Text copyright © 2006 Dorling Kindersley except: Foreword and North India chapter, text copyright © 2006 Vivek Singh; Myanmar and Maritime SE Asia chapter, text copyright 2006 © Sri Owen 2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 13: 978 1 4053 1572 2 ISBN 10: 1 4053 1572 5 Colour reproduction by GRB, Italy Printed and bound in Singapore by Star Standard Discover more at www.dk.com C FOREWORD 8 • CONTRIBUTORS 10 O N NORTH INDIA VIVEK SINGH 14 T Ingredients • Ghee • Garam masala E RAJASTHAN 30 N Fiery lamb curry • Lamb and sweetcorn curry • Rabbit leg cooked in pickling spices • Chickpea flour dumplings in yogurt T sauce • Five lentils mix • Garlic chutney • Chickpea bread S DELHI & PUNJAB 42 Old Delhi-style chicken curry • Stir-fry of paneer cheese with peppers • Lamb cooked with winter vegetables and spinach • Catfish in yogurt sauce • Black lentils • Naan bread LUCKNOW & AWADH 52 Slow-braised lamb shank in saffron sauce • Lamb shoulder with green chillies, mint and yogurt • Bhopal-style goat curry • Seasonal vegetables in spinach and garlic sauce • Quails in spicy curry • Chicken and morel curry • Green peas pilau • Layered paratha BENGAL 64 King prawns in coconut curry sauce • Steamed lobster with coconut, ginger and chilli • Perch in Bengali mustard and onion sauce • Lamb cooked in rich onion sauce • Masala pork chops • Home-style chicken curry • Ghee rice • Deep-fried puffed breads SOUTH INDIA DAS SREEDHARAN 76 Ingredients • Tamarind fish curry • Coconut fish curry • Kingfish curry • Shallow-fried masala sardines • Sri Lankan fish stew • Boatman’s prawn masala • King prawn and pumpkin curry • Crab in coconut milk • Squid curry • Kerala lamb • Hyderabadi mutton • Lamb and plantain curry • Pork vindaloo • South Indian chicken korma • Sri Lankan chicken curry • Chicken pepper fry • Mixed vegetable curry • Spinach and yogurt curry • Black-eye beans with spinach and tomato • Okra and aubergine spicy masala • Potato and green bean stew • Vegetables with lentils • Mixed vegetable rice • Tamarind rice • Savoury rice breads PAKISTAN MAHMOOD AKBAR 120 Ingredients • Spinach and lamb curry • Lamb and tomato curry • Minced lamb and kidney curry • Sliced beef curry • Special chicken curry • Quails in yogurt curry • Prawn curry • Vegetable biryani • Chickpea pilau • Black-eye bean curry • Mixed vegetable curry • Potato curry • Leavened roti • Fried roti • Plum chutney • Pickled garlic • Apple chutney • Mango pickle • Coriander chutney • Mint raita • Onion raita • Cucumber raita • Cumin raita MYANMAR & MARITIME SE ASIA SRI OWEN 154 Ingredients • Compressed rice • Spiced tamarind relish • Dried shrimp relish • Peanut sauce MYANMAR 172 Burmese chicken noodle soup • Pork curry with mango • Chicken curry with lime and tomatoes MALAYSIA 177 Beef rendang • Red curry of beef • Laksa with prawns and tofu SINGAPORE 182 Chilli crab • Fish head curry • Sour fish curry INDONESIA 187 Rich curry of duck • Duck breasts in Balinese spices • West Sumatran mutton curry • Hot and sour prawn curry • Javanese lamb curry PHILIPPINES 195 Chicken adobo • Squid adobo • Braised oxtail with peanut sauce THAILAND DAVID THOMPSON 200 Ingredients • Coconut milk and cream • Cooking Thai curries • Green curry paste • Steamed jasmine rice • Coconut and turmeric curry of red snapper • Sour orange curry of brill and Asian greens • Southern curry of chopped beef • Crab stir-fried with curry powder • Northeastern curry of pork ribs and mustard greens • Fermented fish sauce • Jungle curry of chicken with vegetables and peppercorns • Red curry of oyster mushrooms and bean curd • Red curry of beef with peanuts • Pineapple curry of mussels • Grilled halibut curry • Steamed scallop curry • Green curry of heart of coconut • Green curry of prawns with aubergines and basil • Aromatic curry of pumpkin • Cucumber relish • Aromatic curry of chicken and potatoes • Chiang Mai pork curry • Muslim curry of duck with potatoes and onions MAINLAND SE ASIA CORINNE TRANG 250 Ingredients • Preparing dried chillies • Ground roasted chillies CAMBODIA 264 Cambodian herbal paste • Cambodian red curry paste • Curried fermented fish and pork dip • Steamed snails in curry custard • Catfish curry with rice noodles • Chicken curry with young jackfruit • Cardamom and ginger beef curry with peanuts LAOS 274 Laotian all-purpose curry paste • Stir-fried yellow curried crabs • Green prawn curry with fresh dill • Noodles with pork in red curry broth • Bamboo shoot salad VIETNAM 282 Vietnamese all-purpose curry powder • Pickled vegetables • Salted lemonade • Chicken curry with sweet potatoes and carrots • Vegetable and tofu curry • Stir-fried water spinach • Saigon baguette OUTPOSTS 292 AFRICA ROOPA GULATI 296 Butter bean curry • Kenyan fish curry • Crab and mango curry • Plantain curry • Curried beans in a loaf • Spiced mince baked with savoury custard CARIBBEAN JUDY BASTYRA 308 Ingredients • Ground split pea flatbread • Curried prawns in split pea flatbread • Jamaican goat curry • Bara and curried chickpeas • ‘River lime’ curried duck • Leila’s Guyanese chicken curry BRITAIN ROOPA GULATI 320 Roasting and grinding spices • Tamarind water • Lamb with lentils and tamarind • Fiery lamb curry • Lamb curry with aromatic spices • Creamy chicken curry with nuts • Chicken tikka masala • Prawn balti JAPAN YASUKO FUKUOKA 334 Ingredients • Radishes pickled with mustard • Soup stock • Curry noodle with chicken • Curry rice • Curry rice with pork steaks GLOSSARY 342 SUPPLIERS 344 INDEX 346 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 352 F After writing the recipes for the North Indian chapter, I visited India and decided to ask o people in different parts of the country to define ‘curry’ for me. Most people I asked r struggled! It is not that no one in India knows curry, rather it seems that they know it too e well to call it something as generic as that. It means different things to different people. w essentially, any fish, meat or vegetables, cooked in and with spices and liquid is a curry. o The spices and liquid form a sauce that becomes a part of the dish. It is the spices or r spice combinations that make each curry different. The cooking method itself varies from d simple to sublime – in some cases it could be as simple as simmering in a spiced broth, while in others it may be a complex combination of frying, pot-roasting and braising. what is amazing is that, with time, this cooking style has travelled the world and exists in varied shapes and forms in so many different parts of the world. This is thanks to a migrant population that carried its traditional way of food and life with it. In fact, the journey of curry is an integral part of its success story. This book takes you on that journey. Curry is a compilation of curry recipes like no other. what you will find in the pages to follow are some of the best recipes from different parts of the world, contributed by some of the best experts from those regions. Curry in North India (Chapter one) as it exists today is a combination of techniques, equipments and ingredients that travelled from Persia and the Middle east through Afghanistan and Pakistan to find their way to North India. North Indian curries today are a unique combination of Middle eastern techniques brought by Mughal rulers (Muslim invaders who ruled most of India from the 1500s to the 1700s), with local produce. Similarities can be seen in North Indian and Pakistani (Chapter three) dishes – partly because of the proximity of these regions and partly due to similar climates and produce. The cooking of South India (Chapter two) used to be the cooking of the native dravidian race. The dravidians were the original inhabitants of the Indian sub-continent and were pushed southwards and eastwards with the Aryans and Mughals who migrated from the west. This dravidian influence may explain some of the similarities between South Indian cooking and the cuisine of Maritime Southeast Asia (Chapter four).