Culture Shock! Thailand: A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette

377 Pages·2008·4.78 MB·English

by  Robert Cooper

CultureShock!
A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette
Thailand
Robert Cooper
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CultureShock!
A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette
Thailand
Robert Cooper
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This edition published in 2008 by:
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Photo Credits:
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All illustrations by TRIGG
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ABOUT THE SERIES
Culture shock is a state of disorientation that can come over
anyone who has been thrust into unknown surroundings, away
from one’s comfort zone. CultureShock! is a series of trusted
and reputed guides which has, for decades, been helping
expatriates and long-term visitors to cushion the impact of
culture shock whenever they move to a new country.
Written by people who have lived in the country and
experienced culture shock themselves, the authors share all the
information necessary for anyone to cope with these feelings
of disorientation more effectively. The guides are written in a
style that is easy to read and covers a range of topics that will
arm readers with enough advice, hints and tips to make their
lives as normal as possible again.
Each book is structured in the same manner. It begins
with the fi rst impressions that visitors will have of that city or
country. To understand a culture, one must fi rst understand the
people—where they came from, who they are, the values and
traditions they live by, as well as their customs and etiquette.
This is covered in the fi rst half of the book.
Then on with the practical aspects—how to settle in with
the greatest of ease. Authors walk readers through how to fi nd
accommodation, get the utilities and telecommunications up
and running, enrol the children in school and keep in the pink
of health. But that’s not all. Once the essentials are out of the
way, venture out and try the food, enjoy more of the culture
and travel to other areas. Then be immersed in the language
of the country before discovering more about the business
side of things.
To round off, snippets of basic information are offered
before readers are ‘tested’ on customs and etiquette of the
country. Useful words and phrases, a comprehensive resource
guide and list of books for further research are also included
for easy reference.
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CONTENTS
Foreword vi Punctuality and Time 75
Acknowledgements viii Money 77
Dedication ix Violence 78
Map of Thailand x Spirits 82
Chapter 1 Chapter 4
First Impressions Fitting In
1 90
Disgust and Rapture 3 Body Talk 92
A Child Again 7 The Wai 92
Reaction 9 The Smile 98
Removing the Barriers 11 Heads and Feet 102
Learning Culture 14 Front and Back 105
Counting the Costs 15 Hair 106
Hands 106
Chapter 2 Voice 110
Land, History
Eyes 112
& Religion
17 Appearance 112
Talk 116
Geography 18
Thai English 117
Climate 19
Visiting Homes 124
History 21
Making Friends 127
Religion 28
Sexual Interaction 130
The Monk 31
Fitted Out? 137
Sacred Symbols 36
Economy 42
Chapter 5
The Practicalities
139
Chapter 3
People
45
Visas 141
Tax Clearance 142
Population and Distribution 46
Electricity 143
Diversity in Unity 47
Gas 143
Thai Values and Traditions 50
Telephones, TV and Internet 143
Thai Ways of Seeing 52
Water 144
Family 56
Accommodation 145
Authority 62
Servants (Domestic Help) 151
Equality 63
Pooja 153
Seniority 63
Traditional Poos and Bath 153
Centuries of Respect 65
Family Pets 154
Understanding Thai
Social Structure 66 Schools 155
Success 70 Birth, Marriage and Death 158
Chance 72 Money Matters 160
Changing the Future 73 Shopping 164
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Health and Hospitals 167 Chapter 9
Transportation 169 Thai Business 259
Business and Culture 261
Chapter 6
Eating in Thailand 182 The Expat Manager 262
Work 265
The Joy of Eating 183
Criticism 271
Thai Food 185
Complaints 277
Questions 277
Chapter 7
Conforming to the Taboo 279
Having Fun
198
Festivals 200 Chapter 10
Fast Facts at
Major Festivals 201
Your Fingertips
283
Life-cycle Ceremonies 209
The Thai-ness of The Government System 286
Thai Ceremony 210
Famous Thais 288
One Continuous Ceremony 212
Birth 217
Culture Quiz 297
Birthdays 221
Do’s and Don’ts 320
Puberty 222
Glossary 322
Ordination 223
Resource Guide 325
Marriage 230
Further Reading 342
Death 233
About the Author 345
Hobbies and Sports 235
Index 347
Chapter 8
Learning Thai
245
The Thai Language 246
Useful Words, Phrases
and Expressions 255
Learning More
about Thailand 257
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FOREWORD
vi
Since the fi rst edition of CultureShock! Thailand was published
in 1982, Thailand has leapt forward economically. Change
is evident everywhere: the excellent communication
network throughout the country, the rapid construction of
shopping centres, offi ces and condominiums in Bangkok, the
introduction of the latest technologies and the industrialisation
of the eastern seaboard. CultureShock! Thailand went through
six editions during this period, each requiring substantive
revision, as, to an extent that had never happened before, East
met West in modernising Thailand.
During the quarter-century in which CultureShock! Thailand
has become a standard text for foreigners coming to live and
work in Thailand, rapid growth was becoming an accepted
and expected part of Thai life. A whole generation of Thais
grew up thinking that every day in every way, things would get
better and better. But in 1997, the bubble burst. The economy
almost fell apart, but Thai society did not totter with it. In
some ways, traditional life was reinforced by the Thai response
to an economic miracle that had seemed to promise them
everything, before kicking them in the teeth, and in some
cases, back where they came from. Those in need looked to
relatives and friends for help, found solace in Buddhism and
appealed to the spirits to intervene in their destiny.
Economic woes called a halt to the headlong rush into a
brave new world, but did not reverse gains made in such
things as education and democracy. Highways had been
constructed, ports modernised, telecommunications
revolutionised. Such benefi ts of social change or modernisation
have been retained and strengthened through the leaner
years, bringing us today to a time when Thailand is once more
taking a leading economic and social role in the region— but a
more refl ective role than that of the 1980s and 1990s, a role
built on a more solid base.
In revising this book substantively for this 2005 edition,
I have given much thought to the double-edged sword of
modernisation and change, and have decided that the Thai
personality, which is really what this book is about, has learnt
a few hard lessons related to the ups and downs of modern
life, but that, not so deep down inside, the average Thai has
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vii
not changed that much. Thus, the book has been revised
much in the way that Thais have accepted change in their
own culture—by a process of addition. This is not to belittle
the changes that have taken place. Life expectancy is way up
along with education, medical services rank among the best
in the region if not the world and almost every home has
electricity, a fridge, TV, water and sanitation. The achievements
over the past couple of decades are enormous. That the Thais
retain their traditional charms and smiles is perhaps the most
amazing of these many achievements.
This is a book about Thailand and the Thais. It is written
in English for a mostly non-Thai audience. The revision has
been substantive. The non-Thai arriving in Thailand today is
in a very different situation to his counterpart a quarter of
a century ago. He is far more likely to fi nd much that can
help him through those early, diffi cult but exciting times. The
last thing I want is to guide a ‘reluctant expat’ into a culture
bubble, so along with the very signifi cant new information
on settling in, I include the many innovations that can help
the newcomer come to terms quickly with Thai friends and
colleagues. Most visitors to Thailand staying any length of time
will read more than one book on the country and the people,
but this book should be a good start, setting them on the way
to a degree of integration without unnecessary shock from
a culture which is different to their own but a culture which,
if they give it a chance, will welcome them in, as far as they
want to come in and have the required attributes for entry,
one of which is a smile. I wish the reader success in Thailand
and peace of mind.
Robert Cooper
July 2005
Note: This book is bang up to date in every way except for
pronoun politics. The author uses ‘he’ throughout rather than
varying gender and confusing the reader. He justifi es this by
reference to Thai language, which has a single word meaning ‘he’
or ‘she’!
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
viii
It is horribly unfair to single out a few individuals from the
multitude of Thais and non-Thais who helped me produce this
book, but not to do so would be even more unfair.
I thank my anthropology student at the University of
Singapore, JoAnn Craig, who cleared the path ahead and
guided me gently onto it. Denis Segaller, a dear friend who,
but for a turn in the wheel of fate, would be the author of this
book. Kieran Cooke who found the antidote to culture shock
(a bottle of Mekhong, two bottles of soda and a manao cut
in four). Webb and Renée who saw humour in madness and
made me believe, or want to believe, that there is some kind
of place, somewhere, wherever, for farang in Thailand.
I thank the Abbot of Wat Kingkeo, the phu yai ban and
people of Bang Pli, the staff at the Social Research Institute and
Department of Anthropology, Chulalongkorn University, and
colleagues, Thai and non-Thai, in the United Nations family
in Bangkok and Chiang Kham. I thank my friends Sirinthorn,
who checked many of the facts for me, and Ayo, Sassi, Lung
Jo and Souk Jumpathong, for being themselves. And Khun
Orachart who helped more than she will ever know. In Chiang
Mai, special homage to Pra Santi, Uncle Gerry and Phi Tiu,
Ajarn Nok, Phong and Patcharin, Garnet and Tantawan.
I offer my thanks to the many readers who have written to
me; many of the revisions and updates contained in this 2005
edition are a direct result of their suggestions. I will always be
happy to hear from new and old readers and to reply to letters
received through the publishers.
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DEDICATION
ix
To the girls
Tintin & Tessy
from
Daddy
xxx
The path towards understanding is a million lives long and
so narrow in places that each must pass alone.
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