Culture and consumption : new approaches to the symbolic character of consumer goods and activities PDF
Preview Culture and consumption : new approaches to the symbolic character of consumer goods and activities
CULTURE AND CONSUMPTION a^lUTJUD * QUA HoiTqMazwoo CULTURE AND CONSUMPTION New Approaches to the Symbolic Character of Consumer Goods and Activities GRANT McCRACKEN INDIANA UNIVERSITY PRESS Bloomington and Indianapolis First Midland Book Edition 1990 Permission to reprint the articles below was granted by their original publishers: “Clothing as Language” (Chapter 4). Reprinted by permission of University Press of America, Inc. “Meaning Manufacture and Movement in the World of Goods” (Chapter 5) was originally published as “Culture and Consumption: A Theoretical Account of the Structure and Movement of the Cultural Meaning of Consumer Goods,” Journal of Consumer Research 13 (1 June 1986): 71-84. It has been partially rewritten. Reprinted by permission of the Journal of Consumer Research. “Consumer Goods, Gender Construction, and a Rehabilitated Trickle-down Theory” (Chapter 6) was originally published as “The Trickle-Down Theory Rehabilitated” in The Psychology of Fashion, edited by Michael R. Solomon (Lexington, Mass.: Lexington Books, D. C. Heath and Company, copyright 1985, D. C. Heath and Company). Reprinted by permission of the publisher. © 1988 by Grant McCracken All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. The Association of American University Presses’ Resolution on Permissions constitutes the only exception to this prohibition. Manufactured in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data McCracken, Grant David, 1951- Culture and consumption. Bibliography: p. Includes index. 1. Consumption (Economics)—History. 2. Culture— History. 3. Social values—History. I. Title HC79.C6M385 1988 339.4'7 87-45394 ISBN 0-253-31526-3 ISBN 0-253-20628-6 (pbk.) 3 4 5 6 7 94 93 92 91 90 To the memory of my grandfathers, Joseph Allan McQuade (1896-1983) and Elsworth Smith McCracken (1889-1973) ■sr ♦ »- vw Vi oT «»1»dwQ'>U iujA\K ik\’»Ao\. ^ * ,.. n V^wft * ’ ■' - - '*"» "'■#• ’-.V •w*- -'^ ■* C SilC. ".V «h' ' 1^ •«•■«(; * W '^ -^ •*' •' >' '-«**'■«, *•• ■•(‘•pckJSi' t»ilUuiMl » y«>A^ yr .• «^r* • -4,'—■ ^ ll^. CVkjiaK • •' “•• “ •“ !> <ClH' ■“ ..>--,^>-..4 >11^ -^ - < 4i Hbmitmtih ft/fiu/h .■•• n*a > • !• ♦ '■ ♦ . •« . % Contents Acknowledgments ix Introduction xi Part I. History One. The Making of Modem Consumption 3 Two. “Ever Dearer in Our Thoughts”: PanVia r/je 31 Representation of Status before and after the Eighteenth Century Three. Lois Roget: Curatorial Consumer in a Modern 44 World Part n. Theory Four. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the 57 Study of the Expressive Properties of Material Culture Five. Meaning Manufacture and Movement in the 71 World of Goods Part III. Practice Six. Consumer Goods, Gender Constmction, and a 93 Rehabilitated Trickle-down Theory Seven. The Evocative Power of Things: Consumer Goods 104 and the Preservation of Hopes and Ideals Eight. Diderot Unities and the Diderot Effect: 118 Neglected Cultural Aspects of Consumption Nine. Consumption, Change, and Continuity 130 Notes 139 References I47 Index 167 i ^ ♦ y* ■;;J ginaJnoD = iJirvngbolwoniDA V = noii^jibcnlfil U TMtariH .1 h«*I % • l otoi^iAUiWiO mobf'M Io g;irihiM ->ffT .fWiO Sms i"<uit^w4*I T»X> f« idifisCI tsvH" -owT if. •»A> viv^ V¥3tBi6 lUkAiV?. V^> TViVW'iWi ck irt rtlioS *ioJ *WlfT I ^ 'nostf!' .U r?. »\ xm^\ iv»<Ar) nfe. kM gniriioD loo^ V» •irtm'\<pt3l *A\\qi ^\Z srtM\l«0 Vai^^\uW, »v ^fii iti ln!)fiTyv..»M hf^n vaitnetuauM gnuuisM .»vFI ^ ktxWiJ to tfiOW ■< .ai |Trt«l JL Iwu * j lotiioC) .Jtbrx'O «^7u^^lu^ .xi2 i9 TX‘r.t^»^ •vMWv^fit.'^ :-*>i‘tn tm law*/*! anritn'jovd odT tta'/ttH Uw: ua\.\v>\A w'Xm'nywo'^ Vmb Hu :la>XT3 IwrtKO yft bns. »3ihoU knvinQ .irfjfd mvhcvt\nc‘v.\ i V rr. V«rMui\Wt; if Li /’liWUFb'O t<A« .asjrtAiO ,m>iJq{mf?J30^ .artJM t. 1 il3K>id ri.j e9'j,jaraii9H tDbal
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