Crazy Daisy Boutique Volume 5 by Hero

35 Pages·2021·0.24 MB·English

Project Gutenberg's "Crazy Daisy" Boutique, Vol. No. 5, by Anonymous

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Title: "Crazy Daisy" Boutique, Vol. No. 5

Author: Anonymous

Release Date: May 28, 2020 [EBook #62264]

Language: English

Character set encoding: UTF-8

*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK "CRAZY DAISY" BOUTIQUE, VOL. NO. 5 ***

Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net

Long Daisy Bolero
Baby Sacque and Cap
Bulky Yarn Afghan
Crazy Daisy Shell
Long Skirt
Short Skirt

Page

2

Crazy Daisy” Boutique, Volume 5

“Crazy Daisy” Boutique

VOL. NO. 5
by HERO

$1.00

ORIGINAL

“CRAZY DAISY”

DESIGNS

INDEX

5
6
8
10
11
11

Mother and Daughter Dress
Dimensional Daisy Pillow
Striped Daisy Pillow
Wall Hanging
Crocheted Afghan with Daisy Trim
King Size Crazy Daisy Stole
Carriage Robe
Daisy Trim Apron
Tablecloth
Mardi Gras Bag
Daisy Snood
Crazy Daisy Handbag
Crazy Daisy Cardigan

14 and 15

15
15
17
18
18
19
20
20
22
22
22
23

VOLUME 5

All directions in this book have been checked for accuracy. We cannot be
responsible for typographical errors or misinterpretation of directions.

•

Copyright

SCOVILL MANUFACTURING

COMPANY

DRITZ DIVISION
350 Fifth Avenue

New York, N.Y. 10001

•

Published in U.S.A.

It’s a “Crazy Daisy” world!

Article No. 650
The Original Regular Size “Crazy Daisy” Winder.
Makes Daisies up to 2″ diameter.

3

“CRAZY DAISY” WINDERS
cut crochet time in half and are used to make afghans,
sweaters, stoles, baby items, doilies, and decorative flowers.

Article No. 651
The Original King Size “Crazy Daisy” Winder.
Makes Daisies up to 3″ diameter.

OTHER FAMOUS HERO PRODUCTS ...

• Hero Standard Knitting Needles
• Perfectly Formed Crochet Hooks
• One Piece All Nylon Circular Needles
• Over 100 Knitting Aids and Accessories

SCOVILL DRITZ DIVISION

SCOVILL MANUFACTURING COMPANY

350 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, N. Y. 10001

Helpful Hints and General Directions

HOW TO DETERMINE SIZE TO MAKE:
Directions are based on standard measurements listed below. Allowance has been made

to size, stitch, yarn and style of garment for best results. These are general body measurements and may vary with each individual.

SIZE
10
12
14 16

BUST 32½″ 34″ 36″ 38″
WAIST 24″ 25½″ 27″ 29″
HIP
34½″ 36″ 38″ 40″

Consult chart to determine size to make not overlooking the fact that these are body measurements and not measurements of finished
garment.

HOOKS, TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS:

Crochet Hooks are made in steel, plastic and aluminum. Steel crochet hooks range in size from 00 the largest to size 14 the smallest.
Aluminum crochet hooks range in size from C through K and plastic crochet hooks come in the following sizes: OD, 1-2E, 3-4F, 5G, 6H,
8I, 9J. The size of needle affects the gauge and therefore the measurements of the finished garment. It also affects the texture of the work.
A needle that is too fine for the yarn makes the garment stiff and a needle that is too coarse makes the garment stretchy.

Tapestry Needles are large-eyed blunt pointed needles used for sewing garments tog or embroidery.

An asterisk (*) indicates that instructions immediately following are to be repeated the given number of times, in addition to the original.
“Repeat from * 4 times” means 5 times in all.

Even means that a row or rnd is to be worked without increasing or decreasing.

Work means to continue in same stitch you have been working.

Directions in parentheses are repeated as often as specified. “(Ch 3, sc in next sp of petal) 3 times” means whatever is enclosed in
parentheses is to be repeated for 3 times in all.

CROCHETING ABBREVIATIONS:

ch—chain, sc—single crochet, dc—double crochet, sdc—short double crochet, hdc—half double crochet, trc—treble crochet, sl st—slip
stitch, dec—decrease, inc—increase, st—stitch, tog—together, rnd—round, beg—beginning, sp—space.

TO MAKE DAISIES:

These directions can be used for the HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and for the HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder.

A: Hold winder in left hand with flat side in palm of hand. Turn knob to release spokes (see illustration A).

B: Turn winder over with knob underneath and flat side with spokes extended facing you. Hold winder in left hand. With left thumb hold
yarn at center leaving end to extend about 1″; with right hand, pass yarn from left to right around spoke No. 1; then across center from
right to left around spoke No. 2 directly opposite. Wrap around these 2 spokes once more in the same manner, or as many times as
desired (the number of wraps depends upon the thickness of the yarn you will be using). Bring yarn across center and wind from left to
right around spoke No. 3; then across center from right to left around spoke No. 4. Wrap around these 2 spokes once more, or as many
times as you wrapped around spoke 1 and 2. Bring yarn across center and wind from left to right around spoke No. 5; then across center
and from right to left around spoke No. 6. Wrap around these 2 spokes once more or as many times as you wrapped around spoke 1 and
2. Continue in this manner to wrap yarn around 2 spokes directly opposite each other and then passing onto the next 2 spokes until all
spokes are wrapped, ending with spoke No. 12. Bring yarn across center and cut leaving 1″ extended beyond center (see illustration B).
Do not remove from winder.

A

B

C: Center: Thread tapestry needle with yarn. The side facing you will be the wrong side of the daisy. Fasten at center of wrong side as for
embroidery. Insert needle under 4 petals and draw yarn through; bring yarn back over last 3 of the 4 petals; insert needle under these 3
petals plus 1 more, making 4 petals in all; draw yarn through. Continue in this manner to bring yarn back 3 petals and then draw it under 4
petals each time until you have made 13 sts. Be sure to have 13 sts or center will be incomplete. As the center sts are worked, weave
around the starting end of daisy for a few sts to fasten it securely. Fasten on wrong side. Cut ends (see illustration C). Turn knob to draw
in spokes and release daisy.

D. Right side of daisy.

C

D

JOINING A: Picot Joining of Daisies: These directions can be used for the Crazy Daisy Winder and for the King Size Crazy Daisy

4

Winder. Note: Connections for daisy have been written for a sport yarn or knitting worsted. The number of chains used in connecting the
daisies to each other may have to be adjusted if any other type of yarn or cotton is used.

1st BLOCK: Using crochet hook, sc in sp of petal of daisy (make sure to take up as many of the petals as you wrapped around for
each petal when winding). * (ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in side-top of last sc (picot); repeat from * twice more,
ending (ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, sl st in side-top of last st (picot), 4 picots around. Leave a
2″ thread and fasten off securely on back.

2nd BLOCK: Sc in sp of petal of 2nd daisy. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3 times, place daisy back to back to first block, ch 2, sl st in sp
of picot on first block, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 2nd block to complete the picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next ch-4 sp on 1st block, ch
2, sc back into next petal on 2nd daisy) 3 times. Ch 2, sl st in center of corner picot on first block, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 2nd
block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal on 2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in side-top of last sc for a picot, (ch 4, sc in
sp of next petal), twice, ending ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, sl st back into last st to complete the picot. Leave a 2″ thread and
fasten off securely on back.

3rd BLOCK: Join a 3rd block to another side of first block as follows: Sc in sp of petal of 3rd daisy. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3
times, hold 3rd daisy back to back to first block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on first block, ch 2, sl st back in last sc on 3rd block, (ch 2, sl st
in next sp on first block, ch 2, sc back into next petal on 3rd block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center st between the 2 picots that join the first
and second block, ch 2, sl st in last sc on 3rd block, (ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3 times, ch 5, sl st in side-top of last sc (picot), (ch 4, sc
in sp of next petal) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, sl st in last st to form a picot. Leave a 2″ thread and fasten off securely on
back.

4th BLOCK: Join to one side of 3rd and one side of 2nd block as follows: Sc in sp of a petal of 4th daisy. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal) 3
times. Hold 4th daisy back to back to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in last sc on 4th block to complete picot
joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next sp on 3rd block, ch 2, sc back into next petal on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center of the 3 joined picots
that connect blocks 1, 2 and 3, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 4th block (this completes a 4 picot joining). (Ch 2, sl st in next sp on 2nd
block, ch 2, sc back into sp of next petal on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on 2nd block, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 4th
block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in sp of next petal on 4th daisy) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, sl st back into last st
worked to complete picot. Leave a 2″ thread and fasten off securely on back. Continue to make and join daisies for desired shape and
size in this manner.

TO JOIN DAISIES WITH PICOT JOINING

Joining A

Joining B

5

JOINING B: 1st BLOCK: Rnd 1: With hook, sc in sp of petal (make sure to take up as many of the petals as you wrapped around for
each petal when winding), * ch 4, sc in sp of next petal; repeat from * around, end ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc. Rnd 2: Sc in first sp, *
(ch 4, sc in next sp) 3 times, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot; repeat from * around, ending (ch 4, sc in next sp) twice, ch 4, join
with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, sl st back into sc to complete picot. Leave a 2″ thread and fasten off securely on back.

2nd BLOCK: Rnd 1: Repeat rnd 1 of first block. Rnd 2: Sc in first sp, (ch 4, sc in next sp) 3 times, place daisy back to back to first
block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on first block, ch 2, sl st back into last so on 2nd block to complete the picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next ch-
4 sp on 1st block, ch 2, sc back into next ch-4 sp on 2nd block) 3 times. Ch 2, sl st in center of corner picot on 1st block, ch 2, sl st back
into last sc on 2nd block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp on 2nd block) 3 times, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot,
(ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp on 2nd block) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot. Leave a 2″ thread
and fasten off securely on back.

3rd BLOCK: Rnd 1: Repeat rnd 1 of first block. Join 3rd block to another side of first block as follows: Rnd 2: Sc in first sp, (ch 4, sc in
next ch-4 sp on 3rd block) 3 times, hold 3rd block back to back to first block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, sl st back into
sc on 3rd block for completion of picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in next ch-4 sp on first block, ch 2, sc back into next ch-4 sp on 3rd block) 3
times. Ch 2, sl st in center of joined picots of first and second block, ch 2, sl st in sc on 3rd block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in
next sp on 3rd block) 3 times, ch 5, sl st back into sc to form a picot, (ch 4, sc in next sp on 3rd block) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first
sc, ch 5, sl st in sc to complete picot. Leave a 2″ strand and fasten off securely on back.

4th BLOCK: Rnd 1: Repeat rnd 1 of first block. Join 4th block to one side of 3rd and one side of 2nd block as follows: Rnd 2: Sc in first
sp, (ch 4, sc in next sp of 4th block) 3 times, hold 4th block back to back to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in
last sc on 4th block to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sl st in first ch-4 sp on 3rd block, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp on 4th block) 3 times, ch
2, sl st in center of the 3 joined picots that connect block 1, 2 and 3, ch 2, sl st back into last sc on 4th block (this completes a 4 picot
joining). (Ch 2, sl st in first ch-4 sp on 2nd block, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot on 2nd block, ch
2, sl st back into last sc on 4th block to complete picot joining. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp on 4th block) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first
sc, ch 5, sl st in sc to complete picot. Leave a 2″ thread and fasten off securely on back. Continue to make and join daisies for desired
shape and size in this manner.

LONG DAISY BOLERO

Shown on front cover

SIZES: Directions are for Small (size 8-10). Changes for Medium (size 12-14) are in parentheses.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 4 (5) Royal Blue (A) and
4 (5) White (B). HERO No. 1 steel crochet hook and tapestry needle.

GAUGE: Two connected blocks—6″.

NOTE: Shape of neck on medium size is slightly different in order to attain proper sizing.

TO MAKE DAISIES: Make 77 (91) daisies on King Size Crazy Daisy Winder, winding twice around spokes and sewing centers all
with color A. Make 77 (91) daisies on Crazy Daisy Winder, winding twice around spokes with color B and sewing centers with color A.
See page 3 for directions to make daisies.

1st BLOCK: Place smaller B daisy on top of A daisy and tack securely. Rnd 1: With B, sc in space of petal, going through both loops of
petal of A daisy, ch 4, 2 hdc into sp of same petal (half corner), * (ch 1, 3 hdc in sp of next petal) 3 times, ch 1, 3 hdc back into last petal
worked in to complete a corner; repeat from *, end (ch 1, 3 hdc in sp of next petal) twice, ch 1, 3 hdc in first petal, ch 1 and join with a sl
st to top of starting ch to complete 4th corner. Fasten off B and attach A. Rnd 2: With A, sl st in sp of corner, * (ch 4, sl st in next sp
under ch-1 of previous rnd) 4 times, ch 5, sl st back into base of last sl st in center of corner to form a picot; repeat from *, end with the
completion of picot in 4th corner, join with a sl st to first sl st. Fasten off.

2nd BLOCK: Work as for first block until completion of rnd 1. Rnd 2: With A, sl st in sp of corner, (ch 4, sl st in next sp under ch-1 of
previous rnd) 4 times, hold back to back to first block, ch 3, sl st in sp of picot on first block, ch 3, sl st back into base sl st to complete
picot joining, (ch 4, sl st in next ch-4 sp on first block, ch 4, sl st in next ch-1 sp on 2nd block) 4 times, ch 3, sl st in picot on first block, ch
3, sl st back into base sl st to complete picot joining. * (Ch 4, sl st in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 5, sl st back into base sl st to complete
picot; repeat from * once more, ending with the 4th picot being worked in starting corner. Join with a sl st to first sl st. Fasten off.

3rd BLOCK: Work as for first block until completion of rnd 1. Third block is joined to another side of first block. With A, sl st in sp of
corner, (ch 4, sl st in next sp under ch-1) 4 times, hold back to back to first block, ch 3, sl st in sp of picot on first block, ch 3, sl st back
into base sl st to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sl st under next ch-4 sp on first block, ch 4, sl st under next ch-1 sp on 3rd block) 4 times,
ch 3, sl st in center between joined picots of block 1 and 2, ch 3, sl st back into base sl st to complete picot joining. *(Ch 4, sl st under
next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 5, sl st back into base sl st to form a picot; repeat from * once more, ending with the 4th picot being worked in
starting corner. Join with a sl st to first sl st. Fasten off.

4th BLOCK: Work as for first block until completion of rnd 1. Fourth block is joined to one side of block 3 and one side of block 2.

6

Rnd 2: With A, sl st in sp of corner, (ch 4, sl st in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, hold back to back to third block, ch 3, sl st in sp of picot on third
block, ch 3, sl st back in base st to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sl st under next ch-4 sp on third block, ch 4, sl st under next ch-1 sp on
4th block) 4 times, ch 3, sl st in center of the 3 joined picots, ch 3, sl st back into base sl st to complete a 4 picot joining, (ch 4, sl st under
next ch-4 sp on 2nd block, ch 4, sl st under next ch-1 sp on 4th block) 4 times, ch 3, sl st in sp of picot on 2nd block, ch 3, sl st back in
base sl st to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sl st under next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ending in first corner, ch 5, sl st in base sl st to form 4th picot,
join with a sl st to first sl st. Fasten off. Join all blocks in this manner.

BODY: Join 5 rows of 11 (13) blocks across to underarm (this includes right front, back and left front). RIGHT FRONT: Connect 2
rows of 2 (3) blocks for right front onto body. For medium size only, leave off 1 block at front edge for neck. For both sizes, connect 1
more row of 2 blocks. BACK: Leave off the 3rd (4th) block from right front edge for armhole and for the 6th row of back, connect next
5 blocks across back. Add 1 more row of 5 blocks for back armhole. LEFT FRONT: Leave off the 3rd (4th) block from left front edge
for armhole and work to correspond to right front. Connect blocks from fronts to back for shoulders, leaving out center block on back for
neck.

FINISHING: Block lightly on wrong side. TRIM: Row 1: Attach B at lower right front corner and sc under ch-4 sp, * ch 4, sc in next
sp (1 pattern); repeat from * along right front edge, around neck, along left front edge and across lower edge, placing 2 patterns in each
corner, ending join with a sl st to first sc (see that work lies flat). Row 2: With B, * ch 4, sc in next sp; repeat from * around all edges
worked on row 1, placing 2 patterns in each corner, ending join with a sl st. Row 3: With B, ch 4, 2 dc in first sp, ch 1, * 3 dc in next sp,
ch 1; repeat from * around all edges, placing 2 patterns in each corner, ending join with a sl st to top of starting ch (check to see that work
lies flat). Fasten off B. Attach double strand A, and work backwards (counter clockwise) as follows: * Ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp (1
pattern); repeat from * around all edges, placing 2 patterns in each corner. Join with a sl st and fasten off.

ARMHOLE TRIM: Work same as for trim around edges of bolero.

BABY SACQUE AND CAP

Shown on page 7

SIZE: 6 mo. to 1 yr.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 3 Mint Green (A) and 1 White (B). HERO No. 1 steel
crochet hook and No. C aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle. 1 yd ½″ wide satin ribbon.

TO MAKE DAISIES: Make 62 daisies (57 for sacque, 5 for cap) following directions on page 3. Use A for petals and B for sewing
centers, winding A 3 times around each spoke.

SACQUE

CONNECTING DAISIES: With B and No. 1 steel crochet hook, sc in sp of a petal (go through 3 loops of petal), * ch 3, yo and pick
up a loop in first ch, yo pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook), yo pick up a loop back in same first ch (4 loops on hook), yo pull
through all 4 loops (cluster), sc in sp of next petal; repeat from *, end join with a slip st to first sc (12 clusters). Fasten off. Crochet around
all 62 daisies with B in this manner.

FIRST BLOCK: Attach A, with No. 1 crochet hook, sc in back loop of sc of B cluster on previous rnd, * (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of
next B cluster of previous rnd) 3 times, ch 5, slip st back into base sc to form a picot; repeat from * around end (ch 4, sc in back loop of
sc of next B cluster) twice, ch 4, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 5, slip st into base sc to complete the 4th picot. Fasten off.

SECOND BLOCK: Attach A and sc in back loop of sc of B cluster, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next cluster) 3 times. Place daisy
back to back with first block, ch 2, slip st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, slip st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 2, slip st
in first space of first block, ch 2, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster on 2nd block) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in picot of first block, ch 2, slip
st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) 3 times, ch 5, slip st in base sc to complete
picot, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) twice, ch 4, join with a slip st to first sc, ch 5, slip st back into base sc to complete 4th
picot. Fasten off.

THIRD BLOCK: The third block is joined to another side of the first block. With A, sc in back loop of sc of B cluster on previous rnd,
(ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) 3 times. Hold daisy back to back to first block, ch 2, slip st in picot of first block, ch 2, slip
st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 2, slip st in first space on first block, ch 2, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster on 3rd
daisy) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in center between 2 picots, ch 2, slip st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc
of next B cluster) 3 times, ch 5, slip st back into base so to complete picot, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) twice, ch 4, join
with a slip st to starting sc, ch 5, slip st back into base sc to complete picot. Fasten off.

FOURTH BLOCK: The fourth block is joined to one side each of both the 2nd and 3rd blocks. Attach A and sc in back loop of sc of B
cluster, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) 3 times, place daisy back to back with 3rd block, ch 2, slip st in picot on 3rd block,
ch 2, slip st back into base sc on 4th block to complete picot joining, (ch 2, slip st in next space on 3rd block, ch 2, sc in back loop of sc
of next B cluster on 4th daisy) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in center of the 3 joined picots, ch 2, slip st back into base sc to complete the 4th picot

7

at the joining, (ch 2, slip st in next space on 2nd block, ch 2, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster on 4th daisy) 3 times, ch 2, slip st in
picot on 2nd block, ch 2, slip st back into base sc to complete picot joining, (ch 4, sc in back loop of sc of next B cluster) twice, ch 4, join
with a slip st to first sc, ch 5, slip st back into base sc to complete 4th picot. Fasten off.

BODY: Connect 3 rows of 11 blocks across.

SLEEVES: Make 2. Connect 3 rows of 4 blocks across; then join undersleeve seam as you join the rest of the blocks.

YOKE: With C hook, A and right side facing, work 26 sc across 3 blocks of body (right front), place a marker, work 33 sc around one
sleeve, place a marker, work 44 sc across 5 blocks of body (back), place a marker, work 33 sc around other sleeve, place a marker,
work 26 sc across last 3 blocks (left front). Ch 1 to turn. Row 2: * 1 dc in each st to within 2 sts from next marker, yo pull up a loop in
next st, yo pull through 2 loops leaving 2 loops on hook, yo pull up a loop in next st, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 3 loops (1 dc
decreased), slip marker, decrease 1 dc on next 2 sts; repeat from * across (8 sts dec on row). Ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 for 10 times
more. Fasten off.

FINISHING: With A, right side facing, No. 1 hook and starting on right front at start of yoke, work sc along right front yoke, around
neck and along left front yoke edge, placing 3 sc at each corner of neck. Fasten off A and attach B. Working backwards along row just
completed (counter clockwise), * ch 1, skip 1 sc, hdc in next sc; repeat from * around yoke edges and neck. Fasten off. With double
strand A, make a ch long enough to pull through neck edge and tie. Pull ch through neck edge. End of Tie: With A and No. 1 hook, ch 3,
join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. Rnd 2: 1 sc in each sc. Roll end of tie into cup shape and sew tog. Block lightly.

CAP

With A and No. C hook, ch 64 loosely. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * dc in next ch; repeat from * across, 62 dc (to measure about
10″ across). Ch 1 to turn. Row 2: 1 dc in each dc. Ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 for pattern st. Work even 3¾″. Next row: Leave off 20
sts, attach yarn and work dc on center 22 sts, leaving off the last 20 sts. Work even on the center 22 sts until piece measures the width of
left off 20 sts at each side edge. Fasten off. Sew seams placing length of center piece to width of left off 20 sts at each side edge. Work 4
rows of sc across back of cap taking it in on first row to measure about 9″. Connect 5 daisies across in one line as shown for cuff.
Crochet lower edge of daisies to front edge of cap with a row of sc. Tack daisies at each side edge. Sew on ribbon for ties.

8

Instructions for Carriage Robe on page 19.

BULKY YARN AFGHAN

Shown on front cover

SIZE: Approx. 50″ × 58″.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. Bulky Knitting Worsted, 2 oz. skein, 14 Gold
(A) and 13 Cardinal Red (B). Four oz. skein of Navy Knitting Worsted (C) for centers. HERO No. J aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry
needle.

SMALL DAISY: With A, make 98 daisies on the Crazy Daisy Winder, winding yarn around spokes twice (see page 3 and instructions
included with Crazy Daisy Winder), using C for sewing the centers.

LARGE DAISY: With B, make 97 daisies on the King Size Crazy Daisy Winder, winding yarn around spokes twice (see page 3 and
instructions included with King Size Crazy Daisy Winder), using C for sewing the centers.

FIRST BLOCK: Small daisy. Rnd 1: With A, sc in back loop of a petal of small daisy leaving the top loop free, * ch 1, sc in back loop
of next petal leaving top loop free; repeat from * around, end ch 1, join with a sl st to first sc. Rnd 2: * Ch 2, sc in next sp; repeat from *
around, end join with a slip st. Fasten off A. Rnd 3: Attach B and sc in first sp, * ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2, sc in next sp,
ch 4, sl st back in base sc of ch for picot; repeat from * around, ending with ch 4, sl st in base sc to form 4th picot, join with a sl st to first
sc and fasten off.

9

SECOND BLOCK: Large Daisy. With B, sc in double loop of a petal of large daisy, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal) 3 times, hold
first block back to back with 2nd daisy, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 2nd daisy to complete picot
joining. (Ch 2, sc in first sp of first block, ch 2, sc in next double loop of 2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in picot of first block, ch 2, sl st
back into base sc on 2nd daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in next double loop on 2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 4, sl st back into base sc
to form a picot, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal on 2nd daisy) twice, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to
form 4th picot. Fasten off securely.

THIRD BLOCK: Join a large daisy for third block to another side of first block. With B, sc in double loop of a petal of 3rd daisy, (ch 2,
sc in next double loop of petal of 3rd daisy) 3 times, hold 3rd daisy back to back to first block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2,
sl st back into base sc on 3rd daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in first sp of first block, ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal of 3rd
daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center between the 2 joined picots of first and second blocks, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 3rd daisy. (Ch 2,
sc in next double loop on 3rd daisy) 3 times, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to form a picot, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal) twice, ch
2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to form 4th picot. Fasten off securely.

FOURTH BLOCK: Join a small daisy to one side each of 2nd and 3rd blocks as follows: With A, work rnd 1 and rnd 2 as explained for
first block. Rnd 3: Attach B and sc in first sp. * (Ch 2, sc in next sp) 3 times, hold 4th daisy back to back to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in picot
on 3rd block, ch 2, sl st back in base ch on 4th daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in first sp on 3rd block, ch 2, sc back in next sp
on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center of picots, ch 2, sc back into base sc on 4th block (completion of a 4th picot at joining). (Ch 2,
sc in next sp on 2nd block, ch 2, sc in next sp on 4th daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in picot of 2nd block, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 4th
daisy (completion of connection picot), (ch 2, sc in next sp on 4th daisy) twice, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base
sc to form the 4th picot. Fasten off securely. Connect daisies in this manner, alternating a small and large daisy until there are 13 daisies
across for width and 15 rows for length.

FINISHING: Block lightly on wrong side. Attach A at corner, with right side facing and working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1,
sc in corner space, * ch 1, sc in next space; repeat from * around always working 2 patterns in each corner and ending with 1 pattern in
the starting corner. Join with a sl st and fasten off.

10

Shown are several types of daisies and joinings used in making
the garments in this book. Also shown are some suggestions
for variations that can be made with the Hero “Crazy Daisy”
Winder and the Hero King Size “Crazy Daisy” Winder.

CRAZY DAISY SHELL

Shown here and on page 13

11

Shell and skirt

SIZES: Directions are for size 8. Changes for sizes 10-12, 14-16 and 18-20 are in parentheses.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 5 (6-7-8) Ecru (A) and 2 (2-3-3) Burnt Orange (B). HERO
No. 1 steel crochet hook and tapestry needle.

GAUGE: Two connected daisies—4″.

TO MAKE DAISIES: See page 3 for directions for making daisies. Make petals in A and sew centers with B. Wind A twice around
each spoke. Make 144 (165-198-219) daisies.

TO CONNECT DAISIES: See page 4 for JOINING B. Work rnd 1 of joining with B; then work rnd 2 with A. Connect 16 (18-20-
22) daisies all around for body of shell. Connect 7 rnds of daisies for length to underarm.

BACK: Divide work in half allowing 8 (9-10-11) daisies for back and 8 (9-10-11) daisies for front. Leave off 1 daisy at each end for
underarm, 6 (7-8-9) daisies. Connect 3 (3-4-4) rows of 6 (7-8-9) daisies for back armhole. For size 10-12, next row, connect 1 daisy,
leave off next 5 daisies for neck, connect 1 daisy.

FRONT: Leave off 1 daisy at each end for underarm, 6 (7-8-9) daisies. Connect 2 (2-3-3) rows of 6 (7-8-9) daisies for front armhole.
SHAPE NECK: Connect 1 daisy, leave off center 4 (5-6-7) daisies for neck, connect 1 daisy. Connect front shoulder to back.

FINISHING: Block lightly. LOWER TRIM: Attach A at seam edge, * ch 3 loosely, sc in next sp; repeat from * around (be sure work
lies flat and doesn’t draw in). Next row: Working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, hdc in space, * ch 1, hdc in next space; repeat
from * around. Join with a slip st and fasten off.

NECK TRIM: Rnd 1: Attach A yarn at shoulder, * ch 3 loosely, sc in next space; repeat from * around (see that work lies flat and
doesn’t draw in). Rnd 2: * Ch 2, sc in next space; repeat from * around. Rnd 3: * Ch 1, sc in next space; repeat from * around. For sizes
10-12, work 1 or 2 more rnds as for rnd 3 to fill in neck if necessary. Next rnd: Work as for last rnd as on lower edge. Fasten off.

ARMHOLE TRIM: Attach A yarn at underarm. Rnd 1: * Ch 3, sc in next sp; repeat from * around. Rnd 2: Repeat rnd 1 (see that
work takes in armhole slightly and shapes it). Next rnd: Work as for last rnd as on lower edge. Fasten off.

LONG SKIRT

Shown on pages 10 and 13

NOTE: Directions for short skirt are included in these directions.

SIZES: Directions are for Small (size 8-10). Changes for Medium (size 12-14) are in parentheses.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 10 (11) Hot Pink (A) and 1 skein of Purple (B). HERO No.
1 steel crochet hook and No. C aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle. Skirt zipper, lt. weight lining fabric and 2 hooks and eyes.

GAUGE: Two connected blocks—7″.

Note: Use No. 1 steel crochet hook to crochet around daisies and connect blocks. Use No. C aluminum crochet hook for lower border
and waistband.

TO MAKE DAISIES: See directions on page 3 for making daisies. Make 108 (126) daisies with A, winding 3 times around each spoke
and sewing center with double strand B.

FIRST BLOCK: Rnd 1: With wrong side of daisy facing, with A, sc in petal of daisy (go in space through the 3 loops of petal), * ch 5,
yo and pull up a loop in first ch, yo pull through 2 loops and leave 2 loops on hook, yo pull up a loop in first ch (same as first st), yo pull
through 2 loops, yo pull through 3 loops, sc in next petal (cluster); repeat from * around (12 clusters). Join with a sl st to first sc. Turn. Rnd
2: Ch 5, sc in back of st between next 2 clusters, * ch 4, sc in back of st between next 2 clusters; repeat from *, end ch 4, join with a sl st
(12 spaces). Rnd 3: Sc in first sp, ch 5, dc in first sp (half corner), * (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 3 times, ch 2, 2 dc back into last sp worked in
to complete corner; repeat from * twice more, end (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) twice, ch 2, 2 dc in first sp, ch 2, join with a sl st to top of
starting ch to complete other half of corner. Rnd 4: Ch 5, dc back into corner sp for a half corner, * (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 4 times, ch 2, 2
dc back in last sp worked in to complete corner; repeat from * twice more, end (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 3 times, ch 2, 2 dc in first sp, ch 2,
join with a sl st to top of starting ch to complete corner. Rnd 5: * (Ch 3, sc in next sp) 5 times, ch 6, sc back into last sp worked for picot;
repeat from *, end ch 6, sc back into last sp worked (4th picot). Join with a sl st and fasten off. Crochet around the 107 (125) remaining
daisies in the same manner as for first block.

TO JOIN BLOCKS: Working with two blocks and holding them back to back, leave picots free, sc in first ch-3 sp after a picot on
block 1, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp after a picot on block 2, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 1, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 2
(corresponding ch-3 sp to ch-3 sp worked on block 1); repeat from * along this side edge to within the picots. Fasten off securely leaving
picots from block 1 and 2 free.

TO JOIN BLOCK 3: Block 3 is joined to another side of block 1. Hold block 3 back to back to block 1. Leave picots free, sc in first
ch-3 sp after picot on block 3, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp on block 1, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 3, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block
1 (corresponding ch-3 sp to ch-3 sp worked on block 3); repeat from * along this side edge to within the picots. Fasten off securely
leaving picots free.

TO JOIN BLOCK 4: Block 4 is joined to one side of block 3 and one side of block 2. Leave picots free and holding block 4 back to
back to block 3, sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 4, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp on block 3; * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 4, ch 3,
sc in next ch-3 sp on block 3; repeat from * along this edge to within picots. Fasten off securely leaving picots free. Sc in first ch-3 sp after
picot on block 4, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 2, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 4, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 2;
repeat from * along this edge to within picots. Fasten off securely leaving picots free. At intersection where 4 picots meet from block 1, 2,
3 and 4, join the 4 picots at center using a tapestry needle and B yarn with a secure st (4 picots joined at center form a 4 leaf clover
effect). Fasten yarn securely.

Join 7 rows of 12 (14) blocks around. Join 2 more rows leaving an opening on one side for zipper. Finished skirt with lower band and
waistband is about 37″ in length (there is an allowance for 1″ stretch).

LOWER BORDER: Rnd 1: With No. C hook, attach yarn and sc in a ch-3 sp. Working backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc in
next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around (see that work lies flat). Rnd 2: Continue to work backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc under
ch 1 of previous rnd. Repeat rnd 2 until border is 2″ or desired size. Fasten off.

WAISTBAND: With No. C hook, work 2 rows of sc around waistline, taking it in to measure 25″ (26½″) or desired waist size. Row 1:
Working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, hdc in next st, * ch 1, skip 1, hdc in next st; repeat from * across, end hdc, ch 1 on turn.
Row 2: Hdc in first sp under ch-1 of previous row (continue to work backwards—counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc under next ch-1 of
previous row; repeat from *, end hdc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 until waistband is 2″. Fasten off.

FINISHING: With No. 1 hook, work 1 row of sl st and 1 row of sc around zipper opening. Block skirt lightly. Cut lining and sew tog.
Stitch lining to first row of waistband, gathering it in to size of waistband and leaving lower edge free. Face waistband with a double strip of
lining, leaving a 1½″ extension from back edge for closing tab. Sew in zipper. Sew on 2 hooks and eyes for closing.

SHORT SKIRT

MATERIALS: 8 (9) skeins color A and 1 skein color B. Work 72 (84) blocks as for long skirt. Join blocks as for long skirt. Join 4
rows of 12 (14) blocks around; then join 2 rows of 12 (14) blocks leaving 1 side open for zipper. Finish as for long skirt, working a 1″