Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice, Second Edition

381 Pages·2009·18.31 MB·English

by  Leslie Baumann

Cosmetic
Dermatology
PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
SECOND EDITION
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Cosmetic
Dermatology
PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
SECOND EDITION
LESLIE BAUMANN, MD
Author and Editor
Director, University of Miami
Cosmetic Medicine and Research Institute
Professor of Dermatology
University of Miami
Miami Beach, FL
SOGOLSAGHARI, MD
Associate Editor
Department of Dermatology
University of Miami
Miami, FL
Private Practice
Los Angeles, CA
EDMUND WEISBERG, MS
Managing Editor
Center for Clinical Epidemiology and Biostatistics
University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine
Philadelphia, PA
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Dedication
This book is dedicated to the three men in my life:
Roger Alexander Baumann
Thank you for encouraging me and being there to help
me with all the technology and business aspects of my
life. Your never- ending support has kept me sane over
the years. Most of all, my thanks for dragging me out of
the mud when times were tough like a good cutting
horse does! You are an ideal husband, father, and friend.
Here’s to another 20 years together!
Robert Edward Baumann
I am so proud of what a good person you are growing up
to be. You are kind, have a great sense of humor, and
have a love for others that is truly refreshing. You have
many talents, one of which is making me feel very special
and proud to have you as a son.
Keep up the good work!
Maximilian Carl Baumann
When this book comes out, you will be 7 years old. It is
hard to believe that you are growing up so fast; however,
you will always be my baby. I am very proud of what a
great student and person you are. I am so happy to have
someone in the family who is so much like me and loves
to read as much as I do.
Never stop snuggling!
Roger, Robert and Max,
You all brighten my life, remind me of what is important,
and make it all worthwhile.
Thank you for loving me!
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CONTENTS
C
O
Contributors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ix 13 Skin Pigmentation and Pigmentation N
T
E
Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xi Disorders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 N
T
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xiii Leslie Baumann and Sogol Saghari S
14 Skin of Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
Section 1. Basic Concepts of Skin Science
Heather Woolery-Lloyd
1 Basic Science of the Epidermis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Section 3. Specific Skin Problems
Leslie Baumann and Sogol Saghari
15 Acne (Type 1 Sensitive Skin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
2 Basic Science of the Dermis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Leslie Baumann and Jonette Keri
Leslie Baumann and Sogol Saghari
16 Rosacea (Type 2 Sensitive Skin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
3 Fat and the Subcutaneous Layer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Sogol Saghari, Jonette Keri, Stuart Shanler and Leslie Baumann
Voraphol Vejjabhinanta, Leslie Baumann, Suzan
Obagi, and Anita Singh 17 Burning and Stinging Skin (Type 3
4 Immunology of the Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Sensitive Skin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
Leslie Baumann
H. Ray Jalian and Jenny Kim
18 Contact Dermatitis (Type 4 Sensitive Skin) . . .136
5 Hormones and Aging Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Sharon E. Jacob
Larissa Zaulyanov-Scanlan
6 Photoaging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 19 Wrinkled Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
Sogol Saghari and Leslie Baumann
Leslie Baumann and Sogol Saghari
7 Cigarettes and Aging Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 20 Chemical Peels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
Leslie Baumann and Sogol Saghari
Leslie Baumann and Sogol Saghari
8 Nutrition and the Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 21 Prevention and Treatment of Bruising . . . . . . . . .163
Susan Schaffer, Sogol Saghari and Leslie Baumann
Leslie Baumann
Section 4. Cosmetic Procedures
Section 2. Skin Types
22 Botulinum Toxin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169
9 The Baumann Skin Typing System . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Leslie Baumann, Mohamed L. Elsaie and Lisa Grunebaum
Leslie Baumann and Edmund Weisberg
23 Dermal Fillers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
10 Oily Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 Leslie Baumann, Marianna Blyumin and Sogol Saghari
Mohamed L. Elsaie and Leslie Baumann
24 Lasers and Light Devices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212
11 Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 Joely Kaufman
Leslie Baumann
25 Sclerotherapy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221
12 Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 Larissa Zaulyanov-Scanlan
Leslie Baumann
vii
26 Facial Scar Revision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 34 Antioxidants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .292
Suzan Obagi and Angela S. Casey Leslie Baumann and Inja Bogdan Allemann
35 Anti-inflammatory Agents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312
Section 5. Skin Care
Mari Paz Castanedo-Tardan and Leslie Baumann
27 Starting a Skin Care Product Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237
36 Fragrance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .325
Leslie Baumann
Edmund Weisberg and Leslie Baumann
28 Cosmetic and Drug Regulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241
37 Preservatives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .329
Edmund Weisberg and Leslie Baumann
Edmund Weisberg and Leslie Baumann
29 Sunscreens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245
Leslie Baumann, Nidhi Avashia and Section 6. Other
Mari Paz Castanedo-Tardan
38 Bioengineering of the Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .335
30 Retinoids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256 Leslie Baumann and Mari Paz Castanedo-Tardan
C Leslie Baumann and Sogol Saghari
O 39 Scales Used to Classify Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342
NT 31 Cleansing Agents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .263 Mari Paz Castanedo-Tardan and Leslie Baumann
E
N Kumar Subramanyan and K.P. Ananth
T 40 The Psychosocial Aspects of Cosmetic
S
32 Moisturizing Agents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273 Dermatology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .347
Leslie Baumann Edmund Weisberg
33 Depigmenting Agents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279
Leslie Baumann and Inja Bogdan Allemann Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .357
viii
CONTRIBUTORS
C
O
N
Inja Bogdan Allemann,MD Mohamed L.Elsaie,MD,MBA Jonette Keri,MD,PhD T
R
Cosmetic Dermatology Fellow, Cosmetic Dermatology Fellow, Assistant Professor, Miller School of IB
Department of Dermatology and Department of Dermatology and Medicine, University of Miami, U
T
Cutaneous Surgery, Miller School Cutaneous Surgery, Miller School of Miami, Florida; O
R
of Medicine, University of Miami, Medicine, University of Miami, Miami, Chief, Dermatology Service, Miami VA S
Miami, Florida; Dermatologic Florida; Department of Dermatology Hospital, Miami, Florida
Clinic, University Hospital of and Venereology, National Research Chapters 15 and 16
Zurich Center, Cairo, Egypt
Zurich, Switzerland Chapters 10 and 22 Jenny Kim,MD,PhD
Chapters 33 and 34 Associate Professor, Department of
Lisa Danielle Grunebaum,MD Medicine and Division of
K.P.Ananth Assistant Professor, Division of Facial Dermatology, David Geffen School
Chapter 31 Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, of Medicine at UCLA, Los Angeles,
Department of Otolaryngology and California
Head and Neck Surgery, University Chapter 4
Nidhi J.Avashia,BS
of Miami, Miami, Florida
Miller School of Medicine, University
Chapter 22 Suzan Obagi,MD
of Miami, Miami, Florida
Assistant Professor of Dermatology,
Chapter 29
Sharon E.Jacob,MD Director, The Cosmetic Surgery and
Assistant Professor, Divisions of Skin Health Center, University of
Marianna L.Blyumin,MD
Medicine and Pediatrics Pittsburgh Medical Center,
Dermatology Resident, Department of
(Dermatology), University of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Dermatology and Cutaneous
California, San Diego, San Diego, Chapters 3 and 26
Surgery, Miller School of Medicine,
California
University of Miami, Miami,
Chapter 18 Sogol Saghari,MD
Florida
Department of Dermatology,
Chapter 23
H.Ray Jalian,MD University of Miami, Miami, Florida;
Resident Physician, Department of Private Practice, Los Angeles,
Angela S.Casey,MD
Medicine, Division of Dermatology, California
Assistant Professor, Dermatology and David Geffen School of Medicine at Chapters 1, 2, 7, 13, 16, 19, 20, 21, 23,
Mohs Surgery, University of Vermont UCLA, Los Angeles, California and 30
College of Medicine, Fletcher Allen Chapter 4
Health Care, Burlington, Vermont Susan Schaffer,RN
Chapter 26 Joely Kaufman,MD University of Miami, Cosmetic
Assistant Professor, Department of Medicine and Research Institute,
Maria Paz Castanedo-Tardan,MD Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery Miami Beach, Florida
Department of Dermatology and and Director of Laser and Light Chapter 21
Cutaneous Surgery, Miller School of Therapy, University of Miamia
Medicine, University of Miami Cosmetic Medicine and Research Stuart Daniel Shanler,MD,FACMS
Miami, Florida Institute, Miami, Florida Private Practice, New York, New York
Chapters 29, 35, 38, and 39 Chapter 24 Chapter 16
ix