Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications of Polymers

408 Pages·1991·24.138 MB·English

by  Charles G. Gebelein, Tai Cheng, Victor Yang (auth.), Charles G. Gebelein, Tai C. Cheng, Victor C. Yang (eds.)

Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical
Applications of Polymers
Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical
Applications of Polymers
Edited by
Charles G. Gebelein
Youngstown State University
Youngstown, Ohio
Tai C. Cheng
Advanced Cardiovascular Systems, Inc.
Santa Clara, California
and
Victor C. Yang
University of Michigan
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Springer Science+Business Media, LLC
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
American Chemical Society Symposium on Polymers for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical
Applications (1990: Washington, D.C.)
Cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications of polymers / edited by Charles G. Gebelein,
Tai C. Cheng, and Victor C. Yang,
p. cm.
"Proceedings of an American Chemical Society Symposium on Polymers for Cosmetic and
Pharmaceutical Applications, held August 26-31, 1990, in Washington, D.C." — T.p. verso.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-4613-6722-2 ISBN 978-1-4615-3858-5 (eBook)
DOI 10.1007/978-1-4615-3858-5
1. Polymers in medicine—Congresses. 2. Polymeric drugs —Congresses. 3. Cosmetics — Con
gresses. I. Gebelein, Charles G. II. Cheng, Tai C. III. Yang, Victor Chi-Min, date. IV. Title.
[DNLM: 1. Chemistry, Pharmaceutical-congresses. 2. Cosmetics—congresses. 3.
Polymers—congresses. QV 744 A5065c 1990]
R857.P6A43 1990
615/.19-dc20
DNLM/DLC 91-39442
for Library of Congress CIP
Proceedings of an American Chemical Society Symposium on
Polymers for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications,
held August 26-31, 1990, in Washington, D.C.
ISBN 978-1-4613-6722-2
© 1991 Springer Science+Business Media New York
Originally published by Plenum Press, New York in 1991
Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 1991
All rights reserved
No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, microfilming,
recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the Publisher
PREFACE
Polymers continue to show almost amazing versatility. We have always
known that polymers could be used for trinkets, toys and dishes. Now,
however, we are no longer surprised to encounter these adaptable mate
rials in almost every place we look. We find them in our cars, tools,
electronic devices, building materials, etc. The use of polymeric mate
rials in medicine is also well documented in previous books by one of the
Editors (Gebelein) and by others. Likewise, the use of polymeric mate
rials in pharmaceutical applications, especially in controlled release
systems, is also well established.
Nevertheless, the use of these ubiquitous chemicals is far less ob
vious in the field of cosmetics, although modern cosmetic preparations
rely heavily on polymers and this trend is certain to increase. This book
brings together much of the basic information on polymers in cosmetics
and compares this usage with similar applications in pharmaceutical and
medical applications.
Cosmetics, like medicine and pharmacy, dates back to antiquity. We
can find uses of perfumes, balms and ointments in various old books, such
as the Bible. For example, the use of ointments and balms is noted more
than thirty eight times, and perfumes and related materials are cited at
least twenty nine times in the Bible.
Modern cosmetical formulations often utilize polymers because poly
mers impart special advantages to the end products, such as controlled
release or surface modification. Interestingly enough, many of the same
polymers are used in cosmetics that are used in pharmaceutical and medi
cal applications, mainly because the end uses are somewhat similar in
either requirements, usage or both. This book includes longer versions of
most of the papers presented at the "First International Symposium on the
Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications of Polymers" which was held in
Washington, DC in August, 1990 during the American Chemical Society
National Meeting.
The sequence of the book is fairly simple. The first paper (Gebelein,
Cheng and Yang) gives an overview and outlines the basic similarity in
materials and applications. The next eight papers deal primarily with
cosmetics and are followed by five other papers dealing fairly equally
with cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The following fourteen papers are
v
mainly concerned with pharmaceutical use, and the last seven papers cover
miscellaneous medical applications. Through this entire sequence, how
ever, we find examples of the same polymers occurring in each area. Thus,
we see the natural polymers hyaluronan and chitin (and derivatives) in a
variety of cosmetic, pharmaceutical and medical uses. Likewise, we find
synthetic polymers such as poly(silicones) in all three areas as well.
The first section (Cosmetic Applications) starts with Thomas outlin
ing the governmental regulations. Conklin then describes lather enhanc
ers, mainly using cellulosic materials. Next, two papers describe hair
care polymers (Martino & Nowak; Tsushima & Kondo), followed by two papers
describing various polymers used in cosmetics (Tazi, et al.; Floyd). This
first section concludes with a pair of papers considering sunscreen sys
tems (Wang, et al.; Nacht). In the latter paper, we see the natural poly
mer melanin used as a sunscreen.
The second section (Applications in Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals)
starts with four papers describing some important poly(saccharides) , such
as chitosan and hyaluronan, which are used in both fields (Hirano, et
al.; Brode; Brode, et al.; Band, et al.). The remaining paper considers
poly(vinyl pyrrolidone) polymers which are widely used in both cosmetics
and pharmaceuticals.
The third section (Pharmaceutical Applications) continues the thrust
of this book by considering hylan systems in drug delivery (Larsen, et
al.), the basic design features of controlled release systems (Thombre),
the use of a microsponge delivery system (Eury, et al.) and some bioelas
tic polymer derivatives of elastin as "smart" drug delivery systems
(Urry). The next three papers are concerned with hydrogel systems (Bae &
Kim; Kou, Fleisher & Amidon; Kim & Lee). This is followed by a pair of
papers treating liposomes, vesicles and targeted delivery (Egbaria &
Weiner; Kondo, et al.). Levy, et al., then discuss cardiovascular appli
cations of controlled release systems, and Wang, et al., describe the
release of vaccines from microspheres. Carraher, et al., discuss a new
polymer system for treating yeast infections from Candida albicans and
Stemberger, et al., cover the use of collagen as a drug carrier. This
section concludes with a paper on anticancer polymers (Carraher &
Williams) .
The final section (Other Medical-Related Applications) starts with a
review of the applications of hyaluronan (Balazs) and then turns to syn
thetic polymers which also can produce a lubricious surface (Fan). Kohn
then describes some new biomaterials derived from amino acids. The next
pair of papers are concerned with heparin therapy (Chen & Yang; Kim, Fu &
Yang). Schrope, Shen and Wheatley then describe some polymers which en
hance ultrasound medical analysis. Finally, Ngo discusses some polymers
used in affinity chromatography and enzyme immobilization.
The Editors wish to thank the American Chemical Society Division of
Polymeric Materials: Science and Engineering for sponsoring and support
ing the Symposium from which this book is derived. We also wish to ac
knowledge the financial support of the following companies (in alphabeti
cal order): Biomatrix, Inc., Dow Chemical, Felton Worldwide, FMC Corp.,
GAF Chemicals Corp., Goldschmidt Chemical Corp., B. F. Goodrich, Johnson
& Johnson, Pfizer, Inc., Union Carbide Corp., and Van Dyke & Co. We
especially wish to acknowledge and thank each author for their fine manu
scripts. Typesetting was done by CG ENTERPRISES.
For the Editors:
Charles G. Gebelein
Youngstown State University
VI
COlft'D'I'S
Cosmetic, Pharmaceutical and Medical Polymer Applications - The
Same Players in Different Games 1
Charles G. Gebelein, Tai Cheng and Victor Yang
COSllETIC APPLICATIONS
The Suitability and Regulation of Raw Materials for the cosmetics
Industry 9
M. R. Thomas
The Form and Function of Lather Enhancer Cellulosics in Personal
Care Products 15
Jerry R. Conklin
Applications of Polymers in Hair Care 25
Gary Martino and Frank Nowak
Polymers for Hair Care Products 33
Rikio Tsushima and Akihiro Kondo
Acetylene-Derived Polymers for Personal Care Applications 39
Mohammed Tazi, Robert Login and Stephen Kopolow
Organo-Modified Silicone Copolymers for Cosmetic Use 49
David T. Floyd
Effects of Waterproofness on the Clinical Efficacy and Irritation
Potential of Sunscreen Products 73
Jonas C. T. Wang, Jue-Chen Liu, Victoria Dole and Chung-ye
Tseng
Melanin, Nature's OWn Sunscreen Polymer 83
Sergio Nacht
vii
APPLICATIONS IN BOTH COSIlE7'ICS AND PIlA1lllACEU7'ICALS
Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Uses of Chitin and Chitosan 95
Shigehiro Hirano, Keiji Hirochi, Ken-ichiro Hayashi, Toshiya
Hikami and Hisashi Tachibana
Polysaccharides: "Naturals" for Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals 105
George L. Brode
Cationic Polysaccharides for Cosmetics and Therapeutics 117
G. L. Brode, E. D. Goddard, W. C. Harris and G. A. Salensky
Interpolymer Complexes Between Hyaluronan and Cationic Cellulose
Polymers 129
P. A. Band, G. L. Brode, E. D. Goddard, A. G. Barbone, E.
Leshchiner, W. C. Harris, J. P. Pavlichko, E. H. Partain,
III, and P. S. Leung
Alkylated Polyvinylpyrrolidone Polymers in Cosmetics and
Pharmaceuticals 137
S. L. Kopolow, R. Login and H. Tazi
PBARllACEU7'ICAL APPLICATIONS
Hylan and Hylan Derivatives in Drug Delivery 147
Nancy E. Larsen, Edward A Leshchiner, Edward G. Parent and
Endre A. Balazs
Polymeric Controlled Drug Delivery Systems: Rational Design and
Development 159
Avinash G. Thombre
HicrospongeR Delivery Systems (MDS): a Topical Delivery System
With Multiple Mechanism for Triggering the Release of Actives 169
Robert Eury, Rajesh Patel, Karen Longe, Tai Cheng and Sergio
Nacht
Bioelastic Materials as Chemomechanically Transducing ("Smart")
Matrices for Drug Delivery 181
Dan W. Urry
New Hydrogels for Oral Drug Delivery 193
You Han Bae and Sung Wan Kim
Release of Phenylpropanolamine from Dynamically Swelling Poly-
(Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate-co-Hethacrylic Acid) Hydrogels 201
Jim H. Kou, David Fleisher and Gordon L. Amidon
Poly(Vinyl Alcohol) Beads with Core-Shell Structure for Drug
Delivery 209
Cherng-Ju Kim and Ping I. Lee
Liposomes as a Topical Drug Delivery System Evaluated by In Vitro
Diffusion Studies 215
K. Egbaria and N. Weiner
Polymers as Stabilizers of Lipid Vesicles 225
Tamotsu Kondo, Yutaka Atsuta, Atsushi Kato, Koichiro Fukuda
and Hiroyuki Ohshima
viii
Polymeric Controlled Release of Cardiovascular Drugs 231
Robert J. Levy, Steven F. Bolling, Rivka Siden, Alan Kadish,
Yashwant Pathak, Parvin Dorostkar, Amnon Sintov, Gershon
Golomb and Thomas P. Johnston
Controlled Release of Protein and Vaccines From Poly(ester)
Microspheres In Vitro 239
H. T. Wang, H. Palmer, R. J. Linhardt, D. R. Flanagan and E.
Schmitt
Treatment of Yeast Infections Employing Organotin-Containing
Modified Poly(Vinyl Alcohol) 255
Charles E. Carraher, Jr., Cynthia W. Butler and Lisa
Reckleben
Drug Carrier Systems Based on Resorbable Polyester Collagen
and/or Biomaterial Combinations 263
A. Stemberger, M. Unkauf, D. E. Arnold and G. Blumel
Anticancer Drugs Based on Analogues of Platinol Derived from
Histidine 269
Charles E. Carraher, Jr., and Melanie M. Williams
orIlER IlEDICAL-llELAfED APPLICATIONS
Medical Applications of Hyaluronan and Its Derivatives 293
Endre A. Balazs
Hydrophilic Lubricious Coatings for Medical Applications 311
Y. L. Fan
New Biomaterials: the Preparation of Polyesters Derived from
Hydroxy Amino Acids 321
Joachim Kohn
The Development of a Cellulosic Material Based Method for Heparin
Therapy Monitoring 329
Weiliam Chen and Victor C. Yang
The Development of Protamine-Coated Cellulose Hollow Fibers for
Heparin Removal: In Vitro Characterization and In Vivo Testing 347
Jae-Seung Kim, You-Yin Fu and Victor C. Yang
Polymeric Systems for Diagnostic Ultrasound Contrast Agents 371
Beth Schrope, Peng Shen and Margaret Wheatley
Facile Activation of Trisacryl Gels with 2-Fluoro-1-methylpyri
dinium Salt (FMP): Applications in Affinity Chromatography and
Enzyme Immobilization 385
T. T. Ngo
COITRIBUTORS 399
IIDEX 407
ix
COSMETIC, PBlRKlCEUTICAL AID KEDICAL POLYMER APPLICATIONS - THE SAKE
PLAYERS IN DIFFEREIIT GAKES
Charles G. Gebelein,B Tai Chengb and Victor YangC
(a) Dept. of Chemistry
Youngstown State University
Youngstown, OH 44555
(b) Advanced Polymer Systems
Redwood City, CA 94063
(c) College of Pharmacy
University of Michigan
Ann Arbor, HI, 48109
In recent years, the seemingly dissimilar applications of
polymers in pharmaceutical, medical and cosmetic areas have
drawn closer together, due partly to similar materials re
quirements and partly to similar chemistry in the end uses.
This paper indicates how similar polymers can be used in
these diverse fields, and how the basic technology is analog
ous in each case. Examples include poly(saccharides), poly
(peptides), methacrylate derivatives and poly(silicones).
IlITRODUCTION
The extensive applications of polymers appear almost limitless. Part
of this is no doubt due to the abundant selection of polymeric materials
now accessible to the chemist and engineer, with a remarkable spectrum
of physical and chemical properties. We are no longer surprised to see
polymers used in automobiles, electronics, audio or visual recordings,
photography, medicine, etc.
What may seem partially unanticipated, however, is to see the same
polymers used in areas that sound reasonably distant from each other.
This occurs in the seemingly disparate domains of medical, pharmaceutical
and cosmetics polymer applications. Yet, this unusual situation can be
elucidated if we merely examine the requirements in each of these unique
domains. Often, these requirements are reasonably similar and can, there
fore, be met by equivalent or identical polymers. In this paper, we'll
overview some of the different polymers and applications in these three
areas. We will examine the general application area of controlled release
systems and then look at some specific classes of natural and synthetic
polymers. In this manner, we will demonstrate that each of these areas
actually uses the same types of polymeric systems, because the desired
effects are essentially the same in all cases.
Cosmetic and PharmllCeutical Applications of Polymers
Edited by C.O. Gebelein et al., Plenwn Press, New York, 1991
CONTROLLED RELEASE SYSTEKS
All three application areas use controlled release systems, although
the nature of the chemicals released varies significantly. In spite of
this stipulation, however, the primary technology remains the same whe
ther we are considering a pharmaceutical, medical or cosmetic operation.
Consequently, we encounter the same kinds of polymeric systems in all
three cases. Thus, monolithic devices, reservoir devices, hydrogels,
glassy polymers and microspheres are used in all three domains. In each
of these cases, the object is to deliver a particular agent for a pro
longed time period, and this goal can be achieved in nearly the same
manner regardless of whether the agent is a perfume or a drug.
POLY (SACCRlRIDES)
Numerous medical or pharmaceutical agents have been used to treat
abnormal skin conditions, but this same objective has been a mainstay of
the cosmetic industry for decades. Recently some presumed inter-active
cosmetics have appeared on the market, including derivatives of retinoic
acid, which are claimed to reduce wrinkles. Even though retinoic acid is
fairly low molecular weight, many polymer chemists wonder whether some
polymeric material might achieve this same goal, possibly even more ef
fectively. It is well known that several poly(saccharide) polymers have
some emollient behavior. Perhaps with this in mind, the Japanese company
Shiseido is currently marketing the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a
natural poly(saccharide), Figure 1, as a skin treatment cosmetic.1 This
particular, potential cosmetic utility of hyaluronic acid probably arises
from its hygroscopic nature, enabling it to moisturize the skin. Hyaluro
nic acid also possesses good adhesive qualities, which could aid in cos
metic usage.
Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the connective tissues of most
vertebrate animals and can be isolated from such scrap materials as
rooster combs. Medical uses of hyaluronic acid include the treatment of
arthritis and eye surgery. In both cases, the poly(saccharide) achieves
its special functions by producing a highly viscous solution. Hyaluronic
acid has also been explored for replacement synovial fluid because it
occurs naturally in this joint lubricating material. Hyaluronic acid has
also been studied as a polymeric matrix in controlled release applica
tions, where it behaves like a hydrogel.2•3
Chitin, a poly(saccharide) closely related to cellulose and shown in
Figure 2, is being studied for a wide variety of biomedical, pharmaceuti
cal, agricultural and cosmetic applications.4-6 Chitin occurs mainly in
insect and crustacean shells, and is the animal equivalent of cellulose.
tL°
3
Figure 1. The structure of hyaluronic acid.
2