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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL CORSICA EYEWITNESS TRAVEL CORSICA Contents Produced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy How to Use this Guide 6 Project Editor Donatella Ceriani Art Editor Oriana Bianchetti Editors Marina Beretta, Angela Magrì Designer Elisabetta Mancini Contributors Fabrizio Ardito, Cristina Gambaro, Angela Magrì Photographers Fabrizio Ardito, Adriano Bacchella, Cristina Gambaro, Lucio Rossi, Marco Stoppato Cartographers Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara Illustrators Modi Artistici, Anna Mucciarelli, Tiziano Perotto English Translation Richard Pierce Editors Sylvia and David Tombesi-Walton (Sands Publishing Solutions); Lauren Robertson Consultant David Abram Senior DTP Designer Jason Little Production Melanie Dowland Printed and bound in China First American Edition, 2003 The Romanesque church of 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 San Michele de Murato Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Introducing Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 Corsica Copyright © 2003, 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House company Discovering Corsica 10 All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, Putting Corsica photocopying, recording, or otherwise) without the prior permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. on the Map 16 Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. A Portrait ISSN 1542-1554 of Corsica 18 ISBN 9781-4654-4060-0 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” Corsica Through is one floor above ground level. the Year 36 The History of Corsica 40 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly/annually. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Laricio pines in the beautiful Front cover main image: The idyllic Plage d’Arone at Piana, Corsica Forêt d’Aïtone Aerial view of Ajaccio Cheese and charcuterie – two of the many specialities of Corsica Sports and Outdoor Activities 188 Survival Guide A crystal-clear sea and white rocks in a cove in front of Îles Lavezzi Practical Information 196 Corsica Ajaccio and Travel Area by Area the West Coast 86 Information 204 Corsica at Bonifacio and General Index a Glance 56 the South 110 208 Bastia and Corte and the North 58 the Interior 134 Travellers’ Needs Where to Stay 158 Where to Eat and Drink 166 Shopping in Corsica 180 Entertainment A typical maquis plant, in Corsica 184 Euphorbia dendroides, in bloom Snow-capped mountains near Monte Cinto The “Moor’s Head”, a symbol of Independent Corsica The citadel in Corte, incorporating the Musée de la Corse 6 (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps visitors to get the most maps, photographs and illustrations. out of their stay in Corsica by providing Travellers’ Needs offers recommendations detailed descriptions, practical information on hotels, restaurants, local food, bars, and expert advice. Introducing Corsica sets shopping, sports and entertainment, the island in its geographical, historical while the Survival Guide provides useful and cultural context. Corsica Area by Area information on safety, health, transport describes the main sights in detail, with and local currency. Corsica Area by Area Corsica has been divided into four flap and inside front cover). The Regional Map. The key to symbols main areas, each coded with a sights described in the regions and a Road Map can be found on coloured thumb tab (see the front are plotted and numbered on a the back flap and inside back cover. CORSICA AREA BY AREA (cid:2) 87 AJACCIO AND THE 1 Introduction WEST COAST The history, landscape and Aanawnna hrtdduiuc grArheagj dalie scs d gcsc,roei oacn drn –aeiif gtrtfeyheg. crayTelt hicn fhioftssi a g:fs rsChtotrollemiinrgtsc ehtihch tba etoe’sh fra ewalta tejehnansged tbr g ch yseoat dtarsha snteithga owrhtefutifen erpe drgr so,ou nwffl ifotlsheh ie– eton e Pfw d ose earoanstsfot dteg,e yrSrrn anabn g ceCdooao,acn rshestei lcisna .e, cdheascraricbteedr ohfe eraec, shh aorweain agre h ow the region has developed over time TbrpGoAcfobsoCptC(posehhrhrnfreeeaaajeiTJesr a roerenutplean t toheuaacefh rsu uoosÎiorplaetncGbpxlneatnvietorv 5i poq e-tsdoy osaeosaeatl3aunlaur im li toutrnrS)f i,taonle tFeehes,harow taenyirelAedesa sac ya nfdd da,b ihnd. tyn j ttd tafgbeno hM h yioo omkSpbceco ue da es.Poutashoc renvtiTuh A oeognttritw srae hopcoilehoajrfttoaseca oatee e a.entcioo nGhtocr notce t khofecwcfrees heatn t haeastmibfst s ncsoeo h bc hap aP,eaitroo skarlasyieehtilin is mtts 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ndehiskroey Sp ol onttdpedt essemuooanthr r- hahgftldna’ sspeseueh)eo een ue i os lasgirmlsd r. nne . de andAeC wao lcrohhscia caatart eoiftoar rh im nqa uarsepi ctla okst h irooeonfffwe etrseor tn thvcheiese .ci tiosollaornsu.dr ooff The area colour code is in the top margin of each page. 88 (cid:2) CORSICA AREA BY AREA AJACCIO AND THE WEST COAST (cid:2) 89 Exploring Ajaccio and the West Coast Sights at a Glance 2 TosRihvegeighsr itvgosii envcweoasvl oeMafrn eat hdiplle u in as trtrehaaet.e Acdhl l a tphtee rT hea GTyepniocreasl ero etcokw feorr, m doatmioinnas tainngd tshheru Gbo vlfeeg deeta Ptoiornto a, ts ttihlle s CeaelmaTatpAiSCdPTPvnnhianhhooipuonjqataegrdueim1re rnsy Fc etst0 p r ooswaciaAeeae n8 dobin,, r jso ee–(egoawetrgts s,Ph9dp fcia ediotnweh )aechte f ni,ecgeihti s iycaoGnptootg erhhdhsi,1 aodry imtien o e0gsoh iregc tfetg3 hG feasfatl fs)hoeie t leorf:m ew srsfefofE rrssc o s Cighfiduv ptn isrydoineinsu ap sthwesirue areftPsi utf m dhkeicbari cmocisueetnneaeutaf 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For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp162–3 and pp172–4 For keys to symbols see back flap HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE (cid:2) 7 Corsica at a Glance 56 (cid:2) CORSICA AREA BY AREA CORSICA AT A GLANCE (cid:2) 57 Corsica at a Glance Rogliano Tftoohu itsrh paorrseeeas eso,n nwt tshh toehs ece o icsloloaulnordu-c rdos idcvoieddrer edtas pibnost.on d WCtmTfchvgGassmGhmA“BfaahhepaanhoiooojResmlioaeaoairllldetnurrnsc2lepsjgcbuhgesst o oiisi0onicteeinofdanyieesecrhuan iedt llsarl deotsaisiarecoes isn aot,t.a oc w s i n edoh nioatiTf ou.ba nlnto hd dn lshegfhI,crlrwiegfn s,r eovi dCei -eecbsic aPt dei tsnplra trta amtauoahBitue hsaih spildanwstntca eva rnaiob hrtinie sramsdisiftoianacuo ree uvdalttlans lens sinauab esclclR nca,ha” cc oqci,orctseneaao,d ttihesa Cuho sxuiuaaudnpmb e iethPreotvpcrninrdeeoerssrseaoeshaaraosedts t r ttvvlrvfnrr ,etnjtymu e tho eiotsehihbeseesr ulo,neaduouilag . eayssnaa(ct-dttnf vcqste l Vbg lrt aewyg heeiothdeitauneynednh rearanvo a reco gassid g eteavaptnbgoce isv e ,oc eorwpih wy sn ddepsmiwhtd fnhe2 iphosls atirou aobd,6lio.,dhaeltet td ,nratl yte– rnhhee dcuh ah yctd r3- ethi n neoseesmsdh,1p e d tldt aa)reioos a,ksi n ,var ntde die ce e , CTGcmsbCthuihaiaettaeraeslanri vtdn od1oisioe u5te’ecsrnltnlssoi lhtCse edins. e i ctewCtgpsieadl haoClain d nldoawsbvte roluiyCbedg’lsm rluorèms ey, sir.tiolesnathif sac ien sat ie v, eth e SagPoonrteoCaClVeainclozvaina L'Île-Rousse CaLlaoczuFTarcrCHaci(BinsTaOEecA(Heas Re rVISpECdeNTipT ovo pE1aTNIrp3rAt Ei5e4OAo8 R–PA–NR5Io85OTNnD5)t)HRDe LecciaSt-PFiMleoduriercanrtotoceCasBCaamesFrovtoEiizlaorezbnallaeilunga VLpobetHaocntmhhiigxffayoiutk eeeauit oBtrenetutrh utd,ahi c s dssswretxse he,alohrr at tseo epalPi eCh n amhdnrtsro e,eidheef tastodra a s’e Vrsuvtuonuoedb ,iespspf eynnmeoBe psay u tdlousdaail-esixreenardtr stia fosh,lt.taPt oa sr i uieot o.soyrae r nf nr dtds Practical Information mtOosainwgPaqefhraeuee britoriana ssrstPftit , .h la tuatolsOhiehl,uraoi e entnenrGnhs r ettGmoe gee acsuno tfotuod naolhPfsclemedeoetoh se ulcdioc aenbdor’ouA stuw Pmea bsjoiaa slaycdmdfctrt aleactticinopnhhi tholgnaeeeea-. 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PCoarmtop-oPomllooroPropriano Sartène BOTN(sHeIeFE ZpA opSnC1Oz1Ia0OU–3 TA3H)ND Porto-Vecchio 78 (cid:2) CORSICA AREA BY AREA BASTIA AND THE NORTH (cid:2) 79 Figari (MMFuRAappfwcGLPsttss psdtab t1tcmhaqwpt pbbTod0oooohhrh’ofhqtkohn uo9lÎouioeooyyra ee4aaptaaehilL rubiaOTA oeeo utaeLtuoad ’vra y rtatm aepirPn tcÎhParl9hoqhnhsLn tulhhmdt)taerp uaeecoun wr escsoeeu.5oRs a cGr du-tedt des ree’ha.dhsro∑esiohtimt etR P oceoluee eltte6tyÎeuP Igsierf lsa e-ioa .,n ssvsaenshiaemso erlr 0sl nlosu mtirraaae4ursrmwdi itdqbd- ,ateed eene etn eswe rnpnsafaasfoo0 Ntatnibtr a ueraee stlr an dr hstkhit4hu ed naPonioteteatelribeiCn aitu uus ahdeaice- , hfna dei eeoRtare,tne drdw3ti1ril2c.paf e cptRrr h,aled elo tcewe1orlo t 5r r,fTeeC.- d8 hy,yaéohmh vp nes le iem amk eko*meT)s 7uhl-epvLl cb 5t n.aps i ei oiris. rrhvaet okt.c’ta.5wot_tissl iniÎoat 7elrsgtadhehsGuopiadusontlphvao sofne8gr ef,lut.stlr au l3r ie eamr ulidnledoiotPapthta wkqibeauht e rvssr ,tsbnt tthaR1roFn hca li delnsh -lesune,srya ttynbe 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Sdai nBtaala Rgenpearata ofAof r Vt 8ScCwbitGTgtbgsphhhihiuyaai ot2thaeea eslun u3vi s Ct dcq Trapvl0iiehola.oeetu eo(cid:2),esMt0 ualnaiir ow tted0dnrse avot t ,d0 Cloedro sefoa nveusmwe pcnrOttfoirlra mhvf o SaisaeienRneeo st roGxnr n-a srSkbatoApstér oo mlapectIlnmnanowhsksChtoasit d eyoosnetigiAo h enhissr.pscnn e dntoe’Ae ar ei,d.s Ao taf n y wssi Aa.etmgpcCda e RIfn eshcrn wriottoriEndihi hreecn1atot ctA hsdete lh7 tyvhkh o c oa9 ccbei eatearBfa4oad y yr lwiTta,nbot , Y ehe t it ltstnnoohlhgeh lre.v ugneaeAdh1ye rs c5sriBat c tRa1aiah i6lsirlll5tlenie eEn7 atswfoktad i o,dhrAas dfiw auh tnet-iSsmhchrf hld tfl tet ews-let poeoJnMih indpeaa .ette aaeursrthsa ot. lnslr bensfriIm,yev-n, o tBP atetiGshmenmaaarliirnsednclpne abelnaeotueeinapidso, ss dra toeestddhilae fn s eoeo oe.egr sdffrf e t o iovnid ense cae ssusmarmy ary For fcaajsafscbawarTpFpc23huirohhooorsnr ohnK ooormvooosb otnorrudee sematteeuLCr cmudtot ptr un sklyrsuekarbmseho sstum oost aTORtermspsa matsorrthcoilytauu e r nystl.bptemwhsi uté,iyheai ltn Hslisdieel alwaoeroeh eo eicciii ia lfnnd re n rrnrtrlraua ri snreoa tnoiahaalrageereymg tesytu oetgnp tfg eot.dlr lir i wt ae,eamioiTwnea dLi yenrf,edtasu rr ahnuln iaewh eesuysilalonr n,t. elm ea se sdsr hpiehfmtt lsnrtrsa ’as aos orecaiieaptsmto o,rabsrrdld uneage,lai a,kd iagl n,ii nCtnaeews fsleinuiriynt d da twontorwasait-cih slstliemrsrasl nlnia.histboeuen ésroardog letinad gaeallnn i snrsr ada ed(P(T(aPM(PRkgVe t HO00ia n oonr,e orci 44aIao sca ldr dsa Sy il t ntles99acSf py d )SrodIe t55.ts oR ha WTei ∑nepm pcmé66vo- OpoeaPCCop55na 1elrl Mn uaoipaR 81bc6ktItablin86 )oaha2sSMB.;l arf–lmie86J2sqa’onua5 r87e.guCi brczs n*C))iamzliee..necl Hen e_@ :Fe (A,( da(, o00e S4E-C5N t4p4cpse i L,aCkt5ioL£ po peGc9i9lmva0v1rVnn)eKo55;a is07 G, l F ilbf(L6.6T2IA c e2er(noy55–aaJ Iv sd muu S9nte.a01ecinlvipn(cid:2)TBdac10 T6oitoC9le)uupees h ane;ma676 n lsetrli lawl1 7aP t)sCaiv 8 cu))o gime..api ron3ltlrlioeou ecansss si pnz kafeatonserpnroorF hiaiiuwumtoossern d bsi lsiaeeat csltrsc-l ekoaeranen vkotdisuwl- l.aalanngvedeed nis nfado nterhd ri etshs to onneey , CaAMtreZ00euri gkmliriinolaioleomsetres 2 2 odSaaHvao6vasnafbee asnSd CcwjrOeeiepdo loaesac,cesr r,nbtlca ctsllPls oora tilha eceaieamnnosianf nai tetcgnnitpshdtna igm warsecO tesCi,nou oaeo chcoralrlnaacutoear unhn bvmsmrd igeaeaaCenlaretr eaot.eaki osro.sen st tfi a ca ks, hhctaahrsapne otftdrh tTwuehsmehcmteo .ii oaaso Bewo rdtvuonthbe iistoln.et jlh eFababfre5 e gcsoytlraotlhite f ieist lcwfne Fiwes ftetg e,etnrh vtolo a loeiw-ati lntgocll tuaowaie elunaagrlc tsaerersiaeosnoeyss-l,. The scale gives an idea of tghreAeyme wsetaisongiCr tfvtinhit eitti smhmrati htetdoeahe eG dre rssleee ycEbp nmoinetuoaftfb beodgrolasrelieeaclnls.s cse hcoeMrdauuicrsrcetahehCiscsf presia lxeaee rlR vlso dki1o,gi nc ’5assdieo. oantcishfwrudasfy-e sit nS.cot h rChfe teneae-naensJssdr t,t te VrCrulisiyavaiehhrr alnygfd er(ol i-i.s esnBirietns b eao d o pfpe ns8t yi4s )t e trohsee d iinsdtaicnacteess annodr tah .wind Holy Week PBtg1Sdha6uaoivem5ilvila st2erp iie.iors ninsI entid o d1r noeor4eos,sf9n wt ft2Gchrho ,ee ohetm ho oubFif uvoas1 tse rr5hbreera4eusincg5 ieCGkln–dsuae4 i Lsnorn7eesgf og a rGa nenwi oseédaen n s a.o f tiser TfoMcAtpSeSotdipasahhantthvenfer ns- a doeensedEetJn coj Mh rceniMer i OcisetHnacteeauihtoaesnasirrasno rrseanuelnmrsagteoe-lrltriinfycBlc, no oywrdiu (b e dlataWsign(ie shnre ebetipysb en eegeeranba itT ays r nienS cebpanGschw niktCdddrt8lutiu-draee toya 4A iaciiScrbcf te ol)nteoasnasvktt,ehsd dnl iioni.wteAmo ta ’esoacedSutdbunn i,yainot aVt l nrtwwa t wtrhdom aiiihrhec rnf pytieguefotorne i e ahoaort icl t ndnf oc hfcarheisrnptniy osociesonn eetse .b een m atfr iC gOcnsah ses sdftath otr.irs hnrnartecaae oiuerpee oe httls wGlu.r anuerld inReciMcomgo rhteoi htsansccshoasites .ottetin foka dteaTmoiotnsoieufrrh he fsl hyFgtnsb lStiseeots,ro a ,thepf i y twowedolbns hroe lftb-safaih e rutMfot tCcyee ooh hfr fme hegra) f eeo. tr ri i o nisnimse s t -t 6 CIbdniuo stisrwlsedicoicnt aoeg’dsrs m Totooro pfrroee Srv tpieigfiaahgcl atetshtsi ,eo hinri ssin taotrereirc i ors, aaC123KclooEcl TunSMoYemergdagn bitihnsthuroigeaisen ltrwes oaC’ aBmllooesal gopobsekatmoniorrontbduns.,et Co wihsf artwihlskhteowe cpraeihty,a e dr el OBwScI1itvnoot6uoras tnAiatisrlhdhtyf tn ur-eeo iatcsns hitteaIer eta1orenadtre5n ltun Si uf1yaseiotto0r n -iaryoe,mA n matsffhn drr eC(eteit s isAhs1esoe cts5retni iotin Stsnnprhetaeugu6 -snac5 sn atsat )tcouon.nr i frivdadb etit nh uia ootenne. d VTSththi-eeeA w lniom twforpoeinrrmee cs siottihyvv.eeer clBoitaoaskdt ietohl new syaallcs hatn hda Trobuoru dr ea nd The Holy Week Procession wmhoislet ipnhteorteosgtirnagp hfesa htuigrehsli.ght the For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp162–5 and pp172–9

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