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Cook's Country eats local : 150 regional recipes you should be making no matter where you live PDF

1118 Pages·2015·54.55 MB·English
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150 REGIONAL RECIPES YOU SHOULD BE MAKING NO MATTER WHERE YOU LIVE BY THE EDITORS AT AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN Copyright © 2015 by the Editors at America’s Test Kitchen All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. America’s Test Kitchen 17 Station Street Brookline, MA 02445 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Cook’s Country eats local : 150 regional recipes you should be making no matter where you live / by the editors at America’s Test Kitchen. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-1-936493-99-9 (alk. paper) E-book ISBN: 978-1-940352-29-9 1. Cooking, American. I. Cook’s country. II. America’s test kitchen (Television program) TX715.C78535 2015 641.5973--dc23 2015005574 Paperback: $26.95 US Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Distributed by Penguin Random House Publisher Services 1745 Broadway New York, NY 10019 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Jack Bishop EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, BOOKS: Elizabeth Carduff EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Lori Galvin SENIOR EDITOR: Debra Hudak ASSISTANT EDITOR: Melissa Herrick EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Samantha Ronan DESIGN DIRECTOR: Amy Klee ART DIRECTOR: Greg Galvan DESIGNER: Jen Kanavos Hoffman MAPS: Michael Newhouse PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR: Julie Cote ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, PHOTOGRAPHY: Steve Klise STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER: Daniel J. van Ackere ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: Keller + Keller and Carl Tremblay FOOD STYLING: Catrine Kelty and Marie Piraino PHOTOSHOOT KITCHEN TEAM: ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Chris O’Connor TEST COOK: Daniel Cellucci ASSISTANT TEST COOK: Matthew Fairman PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Guy Rochford SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jessica Lindheimer Quirk PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT SPECIALIST: Christine Walsh PRODUCTION AND IMAGING SPECIALISTS: Heather Dube, Dennis Noble, Lauren Robbins, and Jessica Voas PROJECT MANAGER: Britt Dresser COPY EDITOR: Barbara Wood PROOFREADER: Pat Jalbert-Levine INDEXER: Elizabeth Parson Contents NAVIGATING THIS E-BOOK WELCOME TO AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN Preface Chapter 1: New England and the Mid-Atlantic Chapter 2: Appalachia and the South Chapter 3: The Midwest and Great Plains Chapter 4: Texas and the West Dining Destinations Conversions and Equivalents Master Recipe Index Index Navigating this E-Book This eBook includes a Table of Contents that allows you to jump to any chapter. And each chapter has its own table of contents with links to every recipe in the chapter. We have also created a Recipe Index that lists all the recipes in the book, divided by chapter, in one place. You can access the Recipe Index from the Table of Contents. (It also appears at the end of the book.) Each title in the Recipe Index is a link that will take you directly to that recipe. This cookbook is filled with sidebars; throughout the book there are links to this material where appropriate. Most eBook reading devices also offer a search function that allows you to type in exactly what you are looking for. Please read the documentation for your particular eBook reader for more information on its search function and any other navigational features it may offer. WELCOME TO AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN This book has been tested, written, and edited by the folks at America’s Test Kitchen, a very real 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Illustrated magazine and Cook’s Country magazine and is the Monday-through-Friday destination for more than four dozen test cooks, editors, food scientists, tasters, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes over and over again until we understand how and why they work and until we arrive at the “best” version. We start the process of testing a recipe with a complete lack of preconceptions, which means that we accept no claim, no theory, no technique, and no recipe at face value. We simply assemble as many variations as possible, test a half-dozen of the most promising, and taste the results blind. We then construct our own hybrid recipe and continue to test it, varying ingredients, techniques, and cooking times until we reach a consensus. The result, we hope, is the best version of a particular recipe, but we realize that only you can be the final judge of our success (or failure). As we like to say in the test kitchen, “We make the mistakes, so you don’t have to.” All of this would not be possible without a belief that good cooking, much like good music, is indeed based on a foundation of objective technique. Some people like spicy foods and others don’t, but there is a right way to sauté, there is a best way to cook a pot roast, and there are measurable scientific principles involved in producing perfectly beaten, stable egg whites. This is our ultimate goal: to investigate the fundamental principles of cooking so that you become a better cook. It is as simple as that. If you’re curious to see what goes on behind the scenes at America’s Test Kitchen, check out our daily blog, The Feed, at AmericasTestKitchenFeed.com, which features kitchen snapshots, exclusive recipes, video tips, and much more. You can watch us work (in our actual test kitchen) by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (AmericasTestKitchen.com) or Cook’s Country from America’s Test Kitchen (CooksCountryTV.com) on public television. Tune in to America’s Test Kitchen Radio (ATKradio.com) on public radio to listen to insights, tips, and techniques that illuminate the truth about real home cooking. Want to hone your cooking skills or finally learn how to bake—from an America’s Test Kitchen test cook? Enroll in a cooking class at our online cooking school at OnlineCookingSchool.com. And find information about subscribing to Cook’s Illustrated magazine at CooksIllustrated.com or Cook’s Country magazine at CooksCountry.com. Both magazines are published every other month. However you choose to visit us, we welcome you into our kitchen, where you can stand by our side as we test our way to the best recipes in America. FACEBOOK.COM/AMERICASTESTKITCHEN TWITTER.COM/TESTKITCHEN YOUTUBE.COM/AMERICASTESTKITCHEN INSTAGRAM.COM/TESTKITCHEN PINTEREST.COM/TESTKITCHEN AMERICASTESTKITCHEN.TUMBLR.COM GOOGLE.COM/+AMERICASTESTKITCHEN Preface Back in the 1970s, I drove across America on three different occasions, stopping in Tennessee diners, truck stops in Oklahoma, and local eateries from the Deep South to the Texas Panhandle to the fast-food haunts of Southern California. Not all of the food was brilliant, but once in a while I came across a recipe that was so special that it told the story of that particular place—it couldn’t have been served anywhere else. Yes, I was familiar with most of what New England has to offer, like Connecticut Steamed Cheeseburgers and Chicken Riggies, and I knew something about Muffulettas and Oyster Po’ Boys from New Orleans as well as Cheddar Beer Soup from Wisconsin, but I had never tasted Moravian Sugar Cake, Sweet Potato Sonker from the Carolinas, Iowa Loose Meat Sandwiches (these sound awful and don’t look so good but they are fabulous), Millionaire Pie, Texas Caviar, or Tick Tock Orange Sticky Rolls. For half a century, local American regional specialties have been relegated to the back burner—community cookbook recipes that few of us took seriously. The food scene was all about the hottest New York, LA, or San Francisco chefs, the “new” American cuisine rather than the cooking of our past. And, to be fair, much of the older repertoire did need a fresh look to make it vital and modern without losing its essence. (That’s where our test kitchen can help out—we rebuild recipes as if they are old cars, fixing the transmissions and restoring body work to new condition!) Plus, many recipes depend on hard-to-find local ingredients, and we work hard to make these recipes accessible to a national audience. Cook’s Country Eats Local is the result of almost a decade of investigation by the editors of Cook’s Country magazine who have scoured the country looking for local specialties. We attend local food festivals, interview local restaurateurs and cooks, and spend weeks at a time on the road, the “Blue Highways” (small two-lane roads) that many writers have found so inspirational. What we have discovered is a whole new world of American cooking, recipes that have flown beneath the national radar for generations only to come back into the spotlight in time to honor our own culinary history. Who wouldn’t want a recipe for Thoroughbred Pie, made with butter, bourbon, and a layer of melted chocolate on the bottom? Or Iron Range Porketta, which is packed with the flavor of fennel (fresh and seeds), or Knoephla Soup, made with chicken and tiny dumplings (just squeeze the batter out of a zipper-lock bag that has one corner cut off)? Bierocks (also called Runsas) are more than tasty beef buns filled with beef, cabbage, and cheese. And, one of my favorites, Bee Sting Cake is made with lush vanilla custard filling, and the cake itself is a brioche-style cake with a honey- almond crust. I’ll take that dessert over a French tart any day. Plus, Cook’s Country Eats Local provides regional maps with information about where to go to eat many of these recipes locally, from Maine to Southern California. And, of course, these recipes have been put through their paces at the Cook’s Country test kitchen so you know that they will work the first time and every time. When I was growing up, Marie Briggs, our town baker, was known for her hand-size molasses cookies that were soft, not hard, and had the salty tang of good blackstrap molasses. It was her signature recipe, although she also made top-notch biscuits and anadama bread as well. Just like Marie, there are thousands of cooks around the country who have their own local specialties, recipes that are tied to small towns and their history. This is the food of America’s past and future, the recipes that make us who we are today. Thanks for stopping by. We are proud of this collection of recipes and hope that many of these dishes become part of your culinary repertoire, no matter where you live. CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL Founder and Editor, Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country Host, America’s Test Kitchen and Cook’s Country from America’s Test Kitchen

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