Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin

395 Pages·1999·29.14 MB·English

by  Randy Schueller

Conditioning
Agents for
Hair
and Skin
edited by
Randy Schueller
Perry Romanowski
Alberto-Culver Company
Melrose Park, Illinois
MARCEL
MARCEL DEKKIENCR. , NEWY ORK BASEL
ISBN: 0-8247-1921-2
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About the Series
The Cosmetic Science and Technologseyr ies was conceivedt o permit discus-
sion of a broad range of current knowledge and theories of cosmetic science
and technology. The series is made up of books written either by a single
author orb y a number of contributors to an edited volume. Authorities from
industry, academia, and the government have participated in writing these
books.
The aim of this series is to cover the many facets of cosmetic science and
technology. Topicasr e drawn froma wide spectrum of disciplines ranging from
chemistry, physics, biochemistry, and analyticaal nd consumer evaluations to
safety, efficacy, toxicity,a nd regulatory questions. Organic, inorganic, physi-
cal, and polymer chemistry, emulsion technology, microbiologdye,r matology,
toxicology, and related fields all playa role in cosmetic science.
There is little commonality in the scientific methods, processes, or for-
mulations required for the wide variety of cosmetic and toiletries manufac-
tured. Products range from hair care, oral care, and skin care preparations to
lipsticks, nail polisheasn d extenders, deodorants, body powders,a nd aerosols
to such products as antiperspirants, dandruff anda cne treatments, antimicro-
bial soaps, and sunscreens.
Cosmetics and toiletries represent a highly diversified field with many
subsections of science and “art.” Indeed, even int hese days of high technology,
“art” and intuition continue to play an important part in the development of
formulations, their evaluation, and the selection of raw materials. There is a
Iv About the Serbs
move towardm ore sophisticated scientific methodologiesi n the fields of claim
substantiation, safety testing, product evaluation, and chemical analysesa nd
a better understanding of the properties of skin and hair.
Emphasis in this series is placed on reporting the current status of cos-
metic technology and science ina ddition to historical reviews. The series has
grown, dealing with the constantly changing technologies and trends in the
cosmetic industry, including globalization. Several of the books have been
translated into Japanese and Chinese. Contributions range from highly sophis-
ticated and scientific treatises, to primers, descriptions of practical applica-
tions, and pragmatic presentations. Authors are encouraged to present their
own concepts as well as established theories. Contributors have been asked
not to shy away from fields that are still ina state of transition, or to hesitate
to present detailed discussions of their own work. Altogether, we intend to
develop in thiss eries a collection of critical surveys anidd eas covering diverse
phases of the cosmetic industry.
Conditioning Agents of Hair and Skin is the twenty-first bookp ublished
in the Cosmetic Science and Technology series.T he book includes detailed
discussions of the biology of skin, the largest component of the human body,
and hair. Not only are skin and hair responsible for our appearance, but they
also providei mportant protective properties. Two other key areas covered in
the book are thec hemicals used acso nditioners in hair and skin care products
and the methods and new techniques for determining the efficacy of these
products and their ability to deliver conditioning to skin and hair. In addition
to providing “cosmetic” effects, the conditioning agents must be functional,
provide hair treatment, and make positivec ontributions to the health of the
skin.
I want to thank all the contributors for taking part in this project and
particularly the editors, Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowfsokri ,d evelop-
ing the concept of this book and contributing a chapter. Special recognition is
also due to Sandra Beberman and the editorial staff at Marcel Dekker, Inc. In
addition, I would like to thank my wife, Eva, without whosceo nstant support
and editorial help I would never haveu ndertaken this project.
Eric Jungemzann, Ph.D.
Preface
Biological surfaces, such as hair and skin, are vulnerable to damage from a
variety of external sources. Suchd amage can makeh air rough and unmanage-
able and look dull, while skin can become dry,a nscda iltyc,h y. Cosmeticp rod-
ucts are used to counteract this damage and to make skin and hair look and
feel better; in other words, the products put these surfaces in better condition.
Hair conditioning products are primarily intended to make wet hair easier to
detangle and comb and make dry hair smoother, shinier, and more manage-
able. Skin conditioning products are primarily intended to moisturize while
providing protection from the drying effects of sun, wind, and harsh deter-
gents. The functional raw materials responsible for the conditioning ability of
these products are thef ocus of this book.
ConditioningAgents for Hair and Skin was prepared by cosmetic formu-
lators, for cosmetic formulators. Our objective is to provide information that
is useful to anyone involved in formulating personal care products, from the
novice chemistt o thes easoned veteran. For the beginning chemist, we aim to
provide a solid foundation of technical knowledge. For the seasoned formu-
lator, we detail the latest state-of-the-art ingredients and testing procedures
used in their evaluation.
The book is structured to give a complete review of the subject. The
first chapter serves as a general introduction. We define conditioning and
provide an overviewof the types of materials and formulations used to achieve
these effects. In addition, we discuss how to evaluate the performance of
V
vi Preface
conditioning products. Chapters 2 and 3 review the biological and physico-
chemical aspects of hair and skin ino rder to provide an understanding of what
conditioning agents should accomplish.
The next several chapters comprise the bulk of the text; they deal with
the individual conditioning agents used in hair and skin care products. The
materials we have included were chosen becauosef their different conditioning
effects on biological surfacesT. his section begins witah review of petrolatum,
an occlusive material that provides conditioning by sealing moisture in skin.
Next is a chapter about humectants, materials that attract and bind water to
skin and hair. Conditioning agents that impart emolliency are described next
in a chapter about esters and oils. The rest of the chapters in this sectiond eal
with ingredientst hat have an electrostatic affinity for biological surfaceTsh. ese
include proteins and classic quaternized ammonium compounds as well as
pseudo-cationic surfactants, like amine oxidesA. discussion of cationic poly-
mers is included as well. Two chapters in this section discuss novel silicone-
derived materials anhdow they function in formulations. After discussing chemi-
cal raw materials we felt it important to place this information in perspective
by including a review of factors to consider when formulating these materials
into finished products. Finally, we end the book by examining the testing
methods currently available for evaluation of conditioning formulations.
We believe thisa pproach will give the beginner an excellent overviewo f
the subject while providing the veteran chemist with new insights into raw
materials, formulations, and testing. As in many works of this type, there is
some overlap of material between chapters and, while this may seem redun-
dant, it is important to recognize the multifunctionality of many conditioning
agents. As with any worokf this nature, the state of the arti s constantlyc hang-
ing and we welcome comments from readers to be considered for incorpora-
tion into futuree ditions.
Randy Schueller
Perry Romanowski
Contents
About the Series iii
Preface V
Contributors k
Introduction to Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin 1
Randy Schueller and Peny Rornanowski
Biology of the Hair and Skin 13
Zoe Diana Draelos
The Role of Biological Lipids in Skin Conditioning 35
Peter M. Elias
Petrolatum: Conditioning Through Occlusion 57
David S. Mom'son
Humectants in Personal Care Formulation:A Practical Guide 95
Bruce W Gesslein
Emollient Esters andO ils 111
John Carson and Kevin F. Gallagher
vii
viii Contents
7 Proteins forC onditioning Hair andS kin 139
Gary A. Neudahl
8 Organo-Modified Siloxane Polymers for Conditioning
Skin and Hair 167
Eric S. Abrutyn
9 Specialty Silicone Conditioning Agents 201
Anthony J. O’Lenick, Jr.
10 Cationic Surfactants and QuaternaryD erivatives for
Hair andS kin Care 223
Matthew F. Jurqzk, David T. Floyd, and Burghard H. Griining
11 Polymers as Conditioning Agents for Hair andS kin 251
Bernard Zdson
12 Formulating Conditioning Products for Haira nd Skin 281
Mort Westman
13 Evaluating Effects of Conditioning Formulations on Hair 301
Janusz Jachowicz
14 Evaluating Performance Benefits of Conditioning
Formulations on Human Skin 337
Ronald L. Rizer, Monya L. Sigler, and David L. Miller
Index 369
Contributors
Eric S. Abrutyn Senior Product Development Leader, The Andrew Jergens
Company, Cincinnati,O hio
John Carson Technical Director, Croda, Inc., Edison, New Jersey
Zoe Diana Draelos Clinical Associate Professor, Department of Dermatol-
ogy, Wake Forest University Schoool f Medicine, Winston-Salena,n d Derma-
tology Consulting Services, HigPho int, North Carolina
Peter M. Elias Professor of Dermatology, University of California, San
Francisco, and Veterans Affairs Medical Center, San Francisco, California
David T. Floyd Technical Director, Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation,
Hopewell, Virginia
Kevin F. Gallagher Croda, Inc., Edison, New Jersey
Bruce W. Gesslein Technical Manager, Specialty Chemicals Division, Aji-
nomoto U.S.A., Inc., Teaneck, New Jersey
Burghard H. Griining Senior Research Manager, Goldschmidt Chemical
Corporation, Hopewell, Virginia
Ix