Computer-aided pattern design and product development PDF
Preview Computer-aided pattern design and product development
Computer-aided Pattern Design and Product Development Othertitlesofinterest MetricPatternCutting ThirdEdition WinifredAldrich 0632036125 PatternCuttingforWomen’sTailoredJackets WinifredAldrich 0632054670 MetricPatternCuttingforMenswear ThirdEdition WinifredAldrich 0632041137 MetricPatternCuttingforChildren’sWearandBabywear ThirdEdition WinifredAldrich 0632052651 Fabric,FormandPatternCutting WinifredAldrich 0632039175 FashionSourceBook KathrynMcKelvey 0632039930 FashionDesign:Process,InnovationandPractice KathrynMcKelveyandJanineMunslow 0632055995 IllustratingFashion KathrynMcKelveyandJanineMunslow 0632040246 FashionMarketing EditedbyMEEasey 0632034599 FashionBuying HelenGoworek 0632055847 MasterPatternsandGradingforWomen’sOutsizes GCooklin 0632039159 IntroductiontoClothingManufacture GCooklin 0632026618 CarrandLatham’sTechnologyofClothingManufacture ThirdEdition DavidJTyler 0632028963 Computer-aided Pattern Design and Product Development Alison Beazley and Terry Bond #2003byBlackwellPublishingLtd Firstpublished2003 EditorialOffices: 9600GarsingtonRoad,OxfordOX42DQ,UK AcataloguerecordforthistitleisavailablefromtheBritish Tel:+44(0)1865776868 Library 108CowleyRoad,OxfordOX41JF,UK Tel:+44(0)1865791100 ISBN1-4051-0283-7 BlackwellPublishingInc.,350MainStreet,Malden,MA 02148-5018,USA LibraryofCongress Tel:+17813888250 Cataloging-in-PublicationData IowaStatePress,aBlackwellPublishingCompany,2121 Beazley,Alison. StateAvenue,Ames,Iowa50014-8300,USA Computer-aidedpatterndesignandproduct Tel:+15152920140 development/AlisonBeazleyandTerryBond. BlackwellMunksgaard,1RosenørnsAlle´,P.O.Box227, p.cm. DK-1502CopenhagenV,Denmark Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex. Tel:+4577333333 ISBN1-4051-0283-7(softcover:alk.paper) BlackwellPublishingAsiaPtyLtd,550SwanstonStreet, 1.Dressmaking–Patterndesign–Dataprocessing. CarltonSouth,Victoria3053,Australia 2.Clothinganddressmeasurements–Dataprocessing. Tel:+61(0)393470300 3.Computer-aideddesign. I.Bond,Terry,1954– BlackwellVerlag,Kurfu¨rstendamm57,10707Berlin, II.Title. Germany TT520.B384 2003 Tel:+49(0)303279060 646.4’072’0285–dc21 BlackwellPublishing,10rueCasimirDelavigne,75006Paris, 2002043912 France Tel:+33153103310 Setin9.25/11ptTimes byDPPhotosetting,Aylesbury,Bucks TherightoftheAuthortobeidentifiedastheAuthorofthis PrintedandboundinGreatBritainby WorkhasbeenassertedinaccordancewiththeCopyright, AshfordColourPress,Gosport DesignsandPatentsAct1988. Forfurtherinformationon Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybe BlackwellPublishing,visitourwebsite: reproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,in www.blackwellpublishing.com anyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical, photocopying,recordingorotherwise,exceptaspermittedby theUKCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988,without thepriorpermissionofthepublisher. Contents Preface vii Constructingagraderuletable 64 Acknowledgements ix Variationsinpositioningthezeropoint 66 Abbreviationsandsymbols x Computergradingtechniques 66 Introduction:Developmentswithincomputer- Gradingprimaryblockpatterns 71 aidedapparelsystems xi Straightskirtgradingthatretainsthe sameproportion 72 Part1: Patternconstruction 1 Straightskirtgradingthatchanges Bodyandgarmentmeasurements 1 theproportion 74 Takingbodymeasurementsmanually 1 Fittedbodiceandsemi-fittedsleeve Computerisedbodymeasuringsystems 4 gradingthatretainsthesame Sizechartformulation 8 proportion 76 Women’ssizecharts 9 Fittedbodiceandsemi-fittedsleeve Patternconstructiontechniques 20 gradingthatchangestheproportion 79 Thepositioningofcomputerpatterns 20 Trousergradingthatretainsthesame Creatingpatternshapesbycomputer 21 proportion 81 Techniquesforconstructingpattern Trousergradingthatchangesthe shapes 21 proportion 84 Blockpatternconstruction 25 Gradingsecondaryblockpatterns 86 Blockpatterns 25 One-piecesemi-fitdressgrading 86 Garmentbalance 25 Knittedtopgrading 87 Garmentshapingbysuppression 27 Blousegrading 89 Easeallowance 28 Patternpreparationfordigitising 92 Influenceofthefabric 28 Settingupparametertables 92 Draftingblockpatterns 29 Checkingthemasterpattern 93 Testingblockpatterns 29 Buildinggraderuletables 95 Constructionofprimaryblockpatterns 30 Computerdigitising 95 Straightskirtblocksize12 30 Verifyingthepatterngrading 96 Fittedbodiceblocksize12 33 Straightsleeveblocksize12 38 Part3: Patterndesigningandgrading 97 Basictrouserblocksize12 40 Patterndesignprocedures 97 Constructionofsecondaryblock Skirtstyling 99 patterns 46 Gatheredskirtwithflounce 100 Semi-fittedandfittedsleeveblocks 46 Pleats 101 One-piecedressblocks 48 Flaredandgoredskirts 102 Fittedone-piecedressblock 49 Constructionofcircularskirts 105 Straightone-piecedressblock 52 Skirtstyleandyokeandpleats 109 Adaptationforasemi-fittedone-piece Pockets 111 dressblock 54 Patchpocket 111 Dartlessblocktopsandblouses 55 Pipedpocket 112 Insetpocket 113 Part2: Computerpatterngrading 61 Waistbandandplacket 114 Patterngrading 61 Bodicestyling 115 Gradingincrements 61 Pivotingadart 117 Gradepointmovement 62 Combiningdarts 118 Methodsofrecordingincremental Combiningdartsforgathering 119 growth 63 Combiningdartsintogathersata Graderules 63 saddleyokeseam 120 v vi Contents Combiningdartstoformdraped Sleevepitch 172 folds 122 Variationinbodysizeandcontour 173 Incorporatingdartsintoseams 124 Smalladjustmenttothewaistsize 173 Modificationforasleevelessarmhole 126 Largeradjustmenttothewaistsize 174 Modificationforalower‘cut-away’ Incorrectsuppression 174 roundneckline 127 Prominencesoftheuppertorso 175 Collarstyling 128 Bustprominence 175 Sectionsofacollar 128 Shoulderbladeprominence 176 Collarpatterns 129 Prominencesofthelowertorso 177 Typesofcollars 130 Straightskirtmodificationfora Methodsofconstructingcollar prominentseat 177 patterns 130 Straightskirtmodificationfora Adaptationforaflatcollar 131 flatterseat 179 Adaptationforasemi-standcollar 132 Straightskirtmodificationforhip Adaptationforagrown-oncollar 134 andthighprominences 180 Constructionofahigh-standcollar 136 Straightskirtmodificationfor Adaptationforaconvertiblecollar 137 stomachprominence 180 Adaptationforatwo-piececollar 137 Trousermodificationforseat Draftforahighrollcollar 138 prominence 182 Draftforashirtcollar 139 Trousermodificationforhipand Sleevestyling 140 thighprominences 183 Relationshipofthesleevetothe Trousermodificationforstomach bodice 140 prominence 184 Sleevelengths 141 CADtechnologyforcustomisation 186 Blousesleevewithbuttonedcuff 142 Computerisedmade-to-measure Puffsleevestyles 142 systems 186 Halfpuffsleeve 143 Configurationandalterationpoints 187 Fullpuffsleevewithfrill 144 Made-to-measuregarmentalteration 190 Raglansleeve 145 Themade-to-measureCADinterface 191 Kimonostyledsleeve 147 Markermakingusingthebatch Productionpatterns 150 process 192 Checkingthestitchingline 150 Advanced3Dpatterndesignsystems 193 Seamallowances 151 Seamcorners 153 Part5: Computerisedmarkermakingsystems 197 Hems 154 Markermakingandlayplanning 197 Facings 155 Fabricwidthsandmaterialutilisation 197 Approvalofthesamplegarmentand Markersforstripedandcheckfabrics 198 gradedpatterns 157 Placementstrategiesforfabrictype andmatching 198 Part4: Patternmodificationforgarmentsize Planningmarkers 198 andfit 159 Optimisingmarkers 199 Assessingthefigureshapeand Computerisedfabricspreadingand garmentfit 159 cutting 200 Variationinbonestructure 159 Height 159 Part6: Productdatamanagementsystems 201 Shoulderslant 162 PDMSystems 201 Lengthoftheupperandlowertorso 164 Organisationofdesigndata 202 Stance 165 Formadministration 203 Variationsinposture 166 Garmentbalance 166 Referencesandfurtherreading 205 Skirtwaistlevels 169 AppendixI:Indexoftechnicalterms 207 Trouserwaistlevelandseatangle 169 AppendixII:Miniaturisedblockpatterns 209 Neckwidth 171 Preface The computer is a very useful tool that when used . Tointroduceandexplainthewiderangeofcom- correctlycanincreaseaccuracyandproductivity,and puterprogramsavailabletotheclothingindustry manage information. This removes the time con- forpatterndesignandproductdevelopment. suming tasks of cutting card patterns and planning . To give guidance to those operating or planning anddrawingmarkersbyhand,andtheduplicationof to use computer programs for pattern designing, hand-writteninstructions.Thiscomputertechnology gradingandlayplanningbycombiningatheoret- hasenabledtheclothingdesign,patternconstruction icalunderstandingwiththepracticalapplication. and product development to be integrated into a . To give a reference source to students following morecontinuousprocess. courses in Pattern Design, Clothing Technology Computer design systems enable designers to andClothingManagement. illustrate and visualise their designs both two and . To give knowledge and understanding of the three dimensionally. The pattern technologist can principles for developing garments to those con- constructandgradethepatternssimultaneously.The versant with operating computers but lacking samplegarmentcanbeviewedthreedimensionallyin experienceinclothingproductdevelopment. simulated fabric. The cost of the garment can be . Toassistthoseexperiencedinclothingtechnology calculated from a computer lay plan of the pattern with the transition from manual methods to piecesonthefabricforfabricutilisation.Havingan operatingcomputersystems. easy access to a database assists the clothing tech- nologisttocalculatethecostofthegarmentfortheir The book is divided into six parts for ease of refer- specifications. ence: However,itisessentialthatthepreparatorywork is based on knowledge of the principles and techni- INTRODUCTION: Developments within compu- quesofpatternconstruction,gradingandpatternlay ter-aidedapparelsystems. planning and marker making. Initially the pre- The clothing industry has changed profoundly in paratoryworkmayappearsomewhattimeconsum- recentyears.Globalisation,speedofinformationand ing, but once the correct data has been put into the communication has stimulated competition. While computeritcanbeoperatedwithconfidence. manufacturers offer unlimited designs, the problem Thedefinitionofdesigninthecontextofthisbook is how to bring products to the market quickly and isnotthecreationoffashionablestylesbutthepro- achieveup-to-dateinformationthatiseasilyobtain- cedure of developing a style suitable for production able. CAD systems are now the essential tools thatisinfluencedbythebodydimensions,thefabric required to integrate and achieve success taking the and the production methods. Originally computer role of the ‘configurator’ between manufacture and programsweredevelopedtogradegarmentpatterns retail.Utilisingafullrangeofelectronictools,from into a range of sizes for lay planning and marker the ubiquitous internet to the new powerful CAD making.Todaytherearemajorsystemsthathavethe systemscandeliverclothingatrelativelyshortcycles. further facility for designing patterns and altering Integrationandcommunicationutilisingtheinternet patternstothesizeandfitforanindividualcustomer. becomethenewsystemsdesignedtoachievethis. Thepatternconstructionanddesigninthisbookis basedonwell-triedandprovenmethodsusedinthe PART1:Patternconstruction past by well-respected pattern makers. These meth- The obtaining of body measurements and how they odshavebeenadaptedfortoday’scomputersystems are formulated into size charts is explained. These but can also be drafted manually and then digitised size charts are requisite to all the pattern designing, into the computer. All the patterns constructed for gradingandcustomisationthatfollowinPart2,Part this book were developed using a computer pattern 3,Part4andPart5.Thevarioustechniquesofcon- design system and are for women’s garments. They structingandmanipulatingpatternsmanuallyandby haveallbeentestedbyproducingsamplegarments. computerarecompared.Thedraftingofbasicblock Theintentionofthisbookis: patterns is described and their adaptation into vii viii Preface secondary blocks. This knowledge assists inthe cal- titivesituation,thefirstplacethatcostreductioncan culation of grading increments discussed in Part 2. be achieved is in fabric utilisation. It is generally These block patterns are the foundation for design- understoodthat40%ofthefinishedgarmentcostis ingpatternforstylesdescribedinPart3. fabric;itisalsorecognisedthat90%ofcuttingroom costsarefabric.Parametersrelevanttolayplanning PART2:Computerpatterngrading andmarkermakingwillbeidentified. Theprinciplesofpatterngradingtoproducearange of sizes are explained. How they are applied to PART6:Productdatamanagementsystems computerised grading is covered in detail. This is Productdatamanagement(PDM)systemshavebeen illustratedbythegradingoftheblockpatternscon- developedtoimprovetheproductandtheprocessof structed in Part 1. The benefits of grading block the product development cycle. These systems pro- patternspriortocomputerpatterndesignisthatthe videanautomatedmeanstocontrolandfacilitatethe size increments are transferred on to the new style. flow of up-to-date information to authorised parti- Thiseliminatesgradingasaseparateprocess.Alter- cipantsthroughouttheorganisation. natively, the digitising and grading of manually PDM acts as a communication tool between producedpatternsisalsoexplained. design, retail and manufacture, containing details about patterns, garment construction, fabric and PART3:Patterndesigningandgrading trims, packaging costs, quality and measurement Thiscoversthepatternconstructionoradaptationof specifications.ItisthedirectinterfacebetweenCAD/ a variety of designs for skirts, bodices, collars and CAM systems and management information sleeves. Suitable methods of grading are suggested. systems. Detailsforcompletingthepatternwithseams,hems andfacingsforproductionarealsogiven. APPENDICES References and further reading are listed on p. 205. PART 4:Pattern modification forgarmentsize and AppendixIgivesacomprehensiveindexoftechnical fit termsandabbreviationsrelatedtothetext.Appendix Thissectiongivesanintroductiontotheassessingof IIshowsreducedsizebasicblockpatternsforuseas the figure shape and garment fit related to the sta- exercises in digitising, grading and pattern design. ture, posture, body size and contour. The identifi- Theseareat33.3%oftheoriginalandcanbeplotted cation of fitting faults is explained and the full-scale. appropriatepattern corrections. Thisinformationis in preparation for pattern alteration systems and Great improvements have been made to computer made-to-measure. systems since the early 1990s. They are much more ‘user friendly’ today and are being continually PART5:Computerisedmarkermakingsystems updated. The content of this book is not specific to Ithaslongbeenrecognisedthatimprovementsatthe one specific system; the authors have used various front end of cutting can show substantial fabric systems for testing the illustrations. The reader savings. Fabric and trim account for about half the shouldbecomeconversantwiththesystemtheywill totalcosts ofgoodsmanufactured, andinacompe- beusing,preferablybytrainingfromthesupplier. Acknowledgements We wish to express our appreciation and thanks to equipmentandquotedetailsoftheirproducts:Ger- the following people: Poppy Thomason, Penny berGarmentTechnology,WicksandWilson,Telmat Preddle and Anita McAdams for the time that they Informatique and the Textile/Clothing Technology freely gave to reading the draft and constructive Corporation.Thepreparationofthisbookcouldnot criticismofthetextanddiagrams.Wewishtothank havebeenundertakenifwehadnothadthesupport, AileenJeffersonandJulieVernonfortheirpractical use of computer facilities and permission to use contribution.Weappreciatethefollowingcompanies some illustrations from Manchester Metropolitan allowing the use of published photographs of their University. ix Abbreviations and symbols bk back Constructionline BP bustpoint Constructionline CB centreback (secondary)and CF centrefront alterationline fr front FS facesideofthefabric Drillhole GRL gradereferenceline Gradedirection NP neckpoint R graderule Grainline SS sideseam Notch UP underarmpoint WS wrongsideofthefabric Patternparameter Squarecorner at908 Stitchline Styleline Zeropointforgrading x
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