Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development Volume 7, Issue 3 Spring 2017 Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development Published by the Thomas A. Lyson Center for Civic Agriculture and Food Systems, a project of the Center for Transformative Action, and with the support of our institutional sponsors: Lyson Center Leadership Team Cheryl Danley, Food Systems Consultant, Detroit, Michigan Ardyth Harris Gillespie, Nutritional Sciences (Retired), Cornell University (cochair) Gilbert W. Gillespie, Development Sociology, Cornell University (Retired)* Heidi Mouillesseaux-Kunzman, Development Sociology, Cornell University (cochair)* Scott Peters, Cornell University Ricardo Salvador, Union of Concerned Scientists JAFSCD Advisors Laura Brown, University of Connecticut Extension (USA)* Joseph McIntyre, Ag Innovations Network (USA)* Kate Clancy, Minnesota Institute for Sustainable Agriculture Shawn McKenzie, Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future (USA)† (USA) Craig Chase, Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture, Iowa Ken Meter, Crossroads Resource Center (USA)* State University (USA) Kent Mullinix, Institute for Sustainable Food Systems, Kwantlen Nevin Cohen, City University of New York (USA)* Polytechnic University (Canada) David Conner, University of Vermont (USA)* Rich Pirog, Center for Regional Food Systems at Michigan State Cornelia Butler Flora, Iowa State University (USA) University (USA) Julia Freedgood, American Farmland Trust (USA)* Ken Robinson, Clemson University (USA) Gilbert Gillespie, Jr., Cornell University (Retired) (USA)* John Smithers, University of Guelph (Canada) R. Bruce Gregory, Farmer, Mitchell Bay Farm & Nursery (USA)* G. W. (Steve) Stevenson, University of Wisconsin-Madison Shermain Hardesty, University of California–Davis (USA)* (USA) John Ikerd, University of Missouri, Columbia (Emeritus) (USA)† Dawn Thilmany McFadden, Colorado State University (USA) Anupama Joshi, National Farm to School Network/Occidental Larry Yee, Fairhaven Strategy Group (USA) College (USA)* Rami Zurayk, American University of Beirut (Lebanon)* Jane Kolodinsky, Food Systems Initiative, University of * Also serves on reviewer team Vermont (USA)* † Also writes a regular column Larry Lev, Oregon State University (USA) JAFSCD Staff Publisher and Editor in Chief: Duncan L. Hilchey / [email protected] / +1-607-342-0259 / Skype: duncan.hilchey Managing Editor: Amy S. Christian / [email protected] / +1-607-342-0258 / Skype: amy.christian295 The Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development, ISSN 2152-0801 (online only), is published quarterly (Summer, Fall, Winter, Spring) by the Thomas A. Lyson Center for Civic Agriculture and Food Systems, a project of the Center for Transformative Action (an affiliate of Cornell University). Journal office: 295 Hook Place, Ithaca, NY 14850 USA. Online subscriptions: Farmer/Student/Sole Proprietor/Retiree: US$40; Agency/Nonprofit Staffperson: US$52; Faculty/Consultant/Corporate Employee: US$72; Institutional Library: US$255–US$745 (based on FTE students). Copyright © 2017 by New Leaf Associates, Inc. All rights reserved. The publisher assumes no responsibility for any statements of fact or opinion expressed in these published papers. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, transmitted, or disseminated in any form or by any means without prior written permission from the Lyson Center for Civic Agriculture and Food Systems. For permission to reuse material, go to www.copyright.com or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, Massachusetts 01923 USA; +1-978-750-8400. CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of uses. JAFSCD Reviewers Paivi Abernethy, U of Waterloo (Canada) R. Bruce Gregory, Mitchell Bay Farm & Nursery Kelly Moore, U of Florida (USA) Shivaugn Ahern, Independent consultant (USA) Alfonso Morales, U of Wisconsin–Madison (Costa Rica) J. Dominique Gumirakiza, Western Kentucky U (USA) Colin R. Anderson, Coventry U (UK) (USA) Caitlin Morgan, U of Vermont (USA) Molly Anderson, Middlebury College (USA) Clare Gupta, U of California–Davis (USA) Elizabeth Morgan, Macquarie U (Australia) Sandip Banerjee, Hawassa U (India) John Guszkowski, CME Associates, Inc. (USA) Vicki Morrone, Michigan State U (USA) James Barham, U.S. Department of Agriculture Lauren Gwin, Oregon State U (USA) Phil Mount, U of Guelph (Canada) (USA) Shermain Hardesty, U of California–Davis (USA) Lenore Newman, U of the Fraser Valley (Canada) Mark Bauermeister, Iowa State U (USA) Neva Hassanein, U of Montana (USA) Kim L. Niewolny, Virginia Tech (USA) Florence A. Becot, U of Vermont (USA) Lena Hatchett, Loyola U Chicago (USA) Kimberly Norris, U of Maryland (USA) Ellie Bomstein, Independent advocate (USA) Tia Henderson, Upstream Public Health (USA) Josh O’Conner, Independent consultant (USA) Mladen Brnčić, U of Zagreb (Croatia) Mary Hendrickson, U of Missouri (USA) Lydia Oberholtzer, Penn State U (USA) Laura Brown, U of Connecticut Extension (USA) Johanna Herron, State of Alaska, Division of Fernando Ona, Tufts U (USA) Lynda Brushett Agriculture (USA) Aleck Ostry, U of Victoria (Canada) William Butler, Florida State U (USA) Brandon Hoover, Messiah College (USA) Laxmi Prasad Pant, U of Guelph (Canada) Michelle Carnegie, U of New England (Australia) Leslie Hossfeld, U of North Carolina–Wilmington François Pelatan, AMAP Dordogne (France) Megan Carney, U.C.–Santa Barbara (USA) (USA) Robert Perry, U of Kentucky (USA) Kuo-Chiang (Matt) Chang, South Dakota State U Guiping Hu, Iowa State U (USA) Greg Pillar, Queens U of Charlotte (USA) (USA) Sarah Huang, Purdue U (USA) Emily Piltch, Tufts U (USA) Nevin Cohen, City U of New York (USA) Valerie Imbruce, Bimghamton U (USA) Michael Pinto, Osborn Architects (USA) Sean Connelly, Alberta Social Economy Research Becca Jablonski, Colorado State U (USA) Joanna Pollock, U of Arkansas (USA) Alliance Centre for Sustainable Community Ann Myatt James, Pennsylvania State U (USA) Matthew Potteiger, Syracuse U (USA) Development (Canada) Chelsea Johnson, Ohio Ecological Food and Madeleine Pullman, Portland State U (USA) David Conner, U of Vermont (USA) Farm Association (OEFFA) (USA) Masud Parves Rana, Rajshahi U (Bangladesh) Amy K. Coplen, Portland State U (USA) Anupama Joshi, National Farm to School Taylor Reid, Michigan State U (USA) Christine Costello, Cornell U (USA) Network (USA) Henk Renting, International Network of Amy Crone, Maryland Farmers Market Mariam Kadzamira, International Food Policy Resource Centres on Urban Agriculture and Association (USA) Research Institute (USA) Food Security (RUAF Foundation) (The Kynda R. Curtis, Utah State U (USA) David A. Knauft, U of Georgia (USA) Netherlands) Carolyn Dimitri, New York U (USA) Uma Koirala, Tribhuvan U (Nepal) Kristin A. Reynolds, The New School (USA) Michael L. Dougherty, Illinois State U (USA) Jane Kolodinsky, U of Vermont (USA) Suzana Rimac Brnčić, U of Zagreb (Croatia) Rebecca Dunning, North Carolina State U (USA) Julia Laforge, U of Manitoba (Canada) Antonio Roman-Alcalá, Alemany Farm (USA) Hamid El Bilali, Mediterranean Agronomic Laura Lavid, Florida Organic Growers (USA) Natalie R. Sampson, U of Michigan (USA) Institute of Bari (CIHEAM-MAIB) (Italy) Kristi Lekies, The Ohio State U (USA) Joshua Sbicca, Colorado State U (USA) Mark Estep, Montana Mobile Processing Co. Dale Levering, LCC International U (Lithuania) Brian J. Schilling, Rutgers U (USA) (USA) Charles Z. Levkoe, Wilfrid Laurier U (Canada) Carrie Scrufari, Vermont Law School, Center for Ayman Ekram Fahim, Suez Canal U (Egypt) Matt Lobley, U of Exeter (UK) Agriculture and Food Systems (USA) James R. Farmer, Indiana U (USA) Bohdan Lojka, Czech U of Life Sciences (Czech Garry Stephenson, Oregon State U (USA) Cathy Farnworth, Independent consulant (USA) Republic) Bill Swanson, Valentine Hill Farm (USA) David Fazzino, Bloomsburg U of Pennsylvania Helena C. Lyson, U of California Berkeley Nicole Elizabeth Tichenor, Tufts U (USA) (USA) William Armand Mala, U of Yaounde I Michele D. Vachon, U of Idaho (USA) Melissa Fernandez Arrigoitia, London School of (Cameroon) Rebecca Valentine, Vermont Law School (USA) Economics (UK) Christian Man, Bring It Food Hub (USA) Matteo Vittuari, U of Bologna (Italy) Paula Fernández-Wulff, U of Louvain (Belgium) Lisa Markowitz, U of Louisville (USA) Gerald W. Warmann, South Dakota State U Jill Ann Fitzsimmons, U of Massachusetts– Matthew Mars, U of Arizona (USA) (USA) Amherst (USA) Wende Marshall, Independent scholar (USA) Amy Webb Girard, Emory U (USA) Nancy Franz, Iowa S tate U (USA) Sarah Martin, U of Waterloo (Canada) Melanie Weir, Roots Creative Kitchen (USA) Kathlee Freeman, Food Tank (USA) Derek Masselink, Masselink Environmental Evan Weissman, Syracuse U (USA) Julia Freedgood, American Farmland Trust (USA) Design (Canada) E. Christian Wells, U of South Florida (USA) Vanessa Fry, Boise State U (USA) Nathan McClintock, Portland State U (USA) Cassandra H. Wilder, Alcorn State U (USA) Jasenka Gajdoš Kljusurić, U of Zagreb (Croatia) Joseph McIntyre, Ag Innovations Network (USA) Spencer D. Wood, Kansas State U (USA) Bishwajit Ghose, Tong Ji Medical College (China) Mahbubur R. Meenar, Temple U (USA) Stephen Wood, Columbia U (USA) Gilbert Gillespie, Jr., Cornell U (Retired) (USA) Bethann G. Merkle, Independent consultant Jen Wrye, Carleton U (USA) Stephan Goetz, Pennsylvania State U (USA) (USA) Steve Young-Burns, PastureLand Cooperative Carol Goland, Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Ken Meter, Crossroads Resource Center (USA) and freelance food writer (USA) Association (USA) Farhad Mirzaei, Animal Sciences Research Lorna Zach, U of Wisconsin (USA) Arthur Green, Okanagan College (Canada) Institute of Iran (Iran) Gregory Zimmerman, Lake Superior State U (USA) Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development ISSN: 2152-0801 online http://www.FoodSystemsJournal.org Contents | Volume 7, Issue 3 / Spring–Summer 2017 On our cover: A concept for resilience in 2020? In its schematic design phase, the Hyperions development proposed for Jaypee (a new city located in the Delhi National Capital Region, India) will include six 36- story multiuse timber towers and a site that integrate housing, co- working spaces, urban farming, agroecology, agroforestry, permaculture, aquaponics, phytopurification lagoons, and more. (Rendering courtesy of Vincent Callebaut Architectures, Paris.) Editorial IN THIS ISSUE: Food System Resilience / Duncan Hilchey 1 Columns CULTIVATING COMIDA: Finding Comida in Our Everyday Lives / Teresa M. Mares 5 FREEDOM’S SEEDS: Freedom Farmers / Monica M. White 9 THE ECONOMIC PAMPHLETEER: The Urban Agriculture Revival / John Ikerd 13 Commentary Fair Labor Practices in Values-Based Agrifood Supply Chains? / Larry L. Burmeister and Keiko Tanaka 17 Open Call Papers Eight Qualities of Resilient Food Systems: Toward a Sustainability/Resilience Index / James Worstell and John Green 23 Adapting to Climate Change: Perceptions of Maple Producers in New York and Vermont / Diane Kuehn, Lisa Chase, and Thomas Sharkey 43 Preserving Large Farming Landscapes: The Case of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania / Tom Daniels and Lauren Payne-Riley 67 Using Contribution Analysis to Assess the Influence of Farm Link Programs in the U.S. / Angela Hersey and Michelle Adams 83 It’s Not Just About the Destination, But Also the Journey: Reflections on Research with Indigenous Women Food Growers / Karyn Stein, Miranda Mirosa, and Lynette Carter 105 (continued) Volume 7, Issue 3 / Spring 2017 i Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development ISSN: 2152-0801 online http://www.FoodSystemsJournal.org Sustainable Intensification, Community, and the Montpellier Panel: A Meta-analysis of Rhetoric in Practice in Sub-Saharan Africa / Anne M. Cafer and Hua Qin 123 Review of Health Impact Assessments Informing Agriculture, Food, and Nutrition Policies, Programs, and Projects in the United States / Krycia Cowling, Ruth Lindberg, Andrew L. Dannenberg, Roni A. Neff, and Keshia M. Pollack 139 Assessing the Impact of the EQIP High Tunnel Initiative / Analena B. Bruce, James R. Farmer, Elizabeth T. Maynard, and Julia D. Valliant 159 Mapping Potential Foodsheds Using Regionalized Consumer Expenditure Data for Southeastern Minnesota / Jake C. Galzki, David J. Mulla, and Erin Meier 181 Merging Opposing Viewpoints: Analysis of the Development of a Statewide Sustainable Local Food Advisory Council in a Traditional Agricultural State / Molly De Marco, Leah Chapmen, Cordon McGee, Larissa Calancie, Lauren Burnham, and Alice Ammerman 197 Reviews Food Studies: Adding Nuance to the Sustainable Food Systems Dialogue (review of Conversations in Food Studies, edited by Colin R. Anderson, Jennifer Brady, and Charles Z. Levkoe) / Review by Keith Williams 211 How Should We Feed the World? (review of Who Really Feeds the World? The Failures of Agribusiness and the Promise of Agroecology, by Vandana Shiva) / Review by Nathan Collins 215 A Response to the U.S. Anti-Hunger Movement’s Mantras: Deserving Objects of Assistance, Daily (Pyrrhic) Victories, and Protracted States of Emergency (review of Big Hunger: The Unholy Alliance between Corporate America and Anti-Hunger Groups, by Andrew Fisher) / Review by David V. Fazzino II 217 Presenting a 360-degree View of Challenges in the U.S. Food System, from Farm to Fork (review of From Farm to Fork: Perspectives on Growing Sustainable Food Systems in the Twenty-First Century, edited by Sarah J. Morath) / Review by Carrie A. Scrufari 221 Food Sovereignty: Reality vs. Assumptions (review of We Want Land to Live: Making Political Space for Food Sovereignty, by Amy Trauger) / Review by Cassandra Hawkins Wilder 223 The Thomas A. Lyson Center for Civic Agriculture and Food Systems, a project of the Center for Transformative Action (an affiliate of Cornell University), is grateful for the support of JAFSCD’s partners. ii Volume 7, Issue 3 / Spring 2017 Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development ISSN: 2152-0801 online http://www.FoodSystemsJournal.org IN THIS ISSUE DUNCAN HILCHEY Food systems resilience Published online September 10, 2017 Citation: Hilchey, D. (2017). Food systems resilience [Editorial]. Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development, 7(3), 1–3. http://dx.doi.org/10.5304/jafscd.2017.073.017 Copyright © 2017 by New Leaf Associates, Inc. I n this combined spring and summer issue of JAFSCD we highlight the growing interest in food systems resilience, as depicted on our cover by the design of the Hyperions project by Vincent Callebaut Architectures. Strategies to promote food system resilience come in many forms, as we reveal in this issue— supporting critical organizational and physical infrastructure along with social capital; incubating new farmers; protecting farm landscapes; using season-extending technology; and supporting labor; as well as adapting to climate change and creating more and stronger connections between farmers of need and residents of need who are in close geographic proximity to each other. Furthermore, resilience can’t come without the support of public- and private-sector actors, including local government and NGOs, who will need ways of measuring food system resilience as they address growing opportunities and challenges in their communities—whether in North America, Europe, or the Global South. With this issue, we are pleased to welcome our newest columnist, Teresa Mares, professor of anthropology at the University of Vermont. Through her column, entitled Cultivating Comida: Pushing the Borders of Food, Culture, and Politics, Teresa will be following closely and commenting on Latinx/Hispanic issues in food systems work, and along the way introduce us to new words and ideas like comida and alimento, and perhaps even impostura (the peasant cultural norm of reciprocity in sharing food during both lean and not-so-lean times). Indeed, we have much to learn from our Latinx/Hispanic sisters and brothers who steadily make contributions to agriculture and foodways in the Global North; Teresa will help us understand and make the most of these rich opportunities. On our cover: A concept for resilience in 2020? In its schematic design phase, the Hyperions development proposed for Jaypee (a new city located in the Delhi National Capital Region, India) will include six 36-story multiuse timber towers and a site that integrate housing, co-working spaces, urban farming, agroecology, agroforestry, permaculture, aquaponics, phytopurification lagoons, and more. (Rendering courtesy of Vincent Callebaut Architectures, Paris.) Volume 7, Issue 3 / Spring–Summer 2017 1 Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development ISSN: 2152-0801 online http://www.FoodSystemsJournal.org In her column, Freedom’s Seeds: Reflections of Food, Race, and Community Development, Monica White takes us on a trip down south to meet “freedom farmers” who played a critical role in the civil rights movement, and who continue to be influential. In our final column for this issue, The Economic Pamphleteer, John Ikerd highlights the revival of urban agriculture and suggests that its full contribution to communities of need is severely under-appreciated. Our final preliminary content is a commentary entitled Fair Labor Practices in Values-Based Agrifood Supply Chains? in which Larry Burmeister and Keiko Tanaka suggest that values-based agrifood supply chains could do a better job of prioritizing fair labor practices. Our first peer-reviewed paper is Eight Qualities of Resilient Food Systems: Toward a Sustainability/Resilience Index by James Worstell and John Green, who continue their work on the quantitative measure of resilient food systems such as locally self-organized processing and marketing. Next, Diane Kuehn, Lisa Chase, and Thomas Sharkey approach resilience from the perspective of maple producers in Adapting to Climate Change: Perceptions of Maple Producers in New York and Vermont. Resilience is also explored in the context of farmland protection in support of sustaining farm commu- nities in Preserving Large Farming Landscapes: The Case of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania by Tom Daniels and Lauren Payne-Riley. In Using Contribution Analysis to Assess the Influence of Farm Link Programs in the U.S., Angela Hersey and Michelle Adams identify factors that prevent most farm link programs from facilitating substantial numbers of farm transfers. Next, Karyn Stein, Miranda Mirosa, and Lynette Carter explore the challenges in participatory and indigenous research methods in It’s Not Just About the Destination, But Also the Journey: Reflections on Research with Indigenous Women Food Growers. Sustainable Intensification, Community, and the Montpellier Panel: A Meta-analysis of Rhetoric in Practice in Sub- Saharan Africa by Anne M. Cafer and Hua Qin yields a disturbing lack of emphasis on community and food security in the sustainable intensification literature focused on sub-Saharan countries. Krycia Cowling, Ruth Lindberg, Andrew L. Dannenberg, Roni A. Neff, and Keshia M. Pollack make the case that health impact assessments should be more widely undertaken as part of local food systems work in Review of Health Impact Assessments Informing Agriculture, Food, and Nutrition Policies, Programs, and Projects in the United States In Assessing the Impact of the EQIP High Tunnel Initiative Analena B. Bruce, James R. Farmer, Elizabeth T. Maynard, and Julia D. Valliant find that, while EQIP is having its intended impact, those farmers who have self-funded their high tunnels report greater economic stability than farmers relying on the NRCS funds for their high tunnels. Jake C. Galzki, David J. Mulla, and Erin Meier move us closer to more realistic estimations of regional food production potential in Mapping Potential Foodsheds Using Regionalized Consumer Expenditure Data for Southeastern Minnesota. In Merging Opposing Viewpoints: Analysis of the Development of a Statewide Sustainable Local Food Advisory Council in a Traditional Agricultural State Molly De Marco, Leah Chapmen, Cordon McGee, Larissa Calancie, Lauren Burnham, and Alice Ammerman shed light on the difficulty of launching a statewide food policy council in a commodity-driven environment. Of course, as a double issue, we have a considerable number of book reviews. Keith Williams reviews Conversations in Food Studies, edited by Colin R. Anderson, Jennifer Brady, Charles Z. Levkoe; Nathan Collins reviews Who Really Feeds the World? The Failures of Agribusiness and the Promise of Agroecology, by Vandana Shiva; David V. Fazzino II reviews Big Hunger: The Unholy Alliance between Corporate America and Anti-Hunger Groups, by Andrew Fisher; Carrie A. Scrufari reviews From Farm to Fork: Perspectives on Growing Sustainable Food Systems in the Twenty-First Century, edited by Sarah J. Morath; and Cassandra Hawkins Wilder reviews We Want Land to Live: Making Political Space for Food Sovereignty, by Amy Trauger. Finally, on a personal note, managing editor Amy Christian and I want to thank the JAFSCD community 2 Volume 7, Issue 3 / Spring–Summer 2017 Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development ISSN: 2152-0801 online http://www.FoodSystemsJournal.org for its outpouring of support after the loss of our son Tom Hilchey in June. As challenging as this has been to our own personal resilience, we have found solace in the work of this dual spring-summer issue, and greatly appreciate the patience and support of authors and reviewers in helping us bring it to fruition. Publisher and Editor in Chief Volume 7, Issue 3 / Spring–Summer 2017 3 Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development ISSN: 2152-0801 online http://www.FoodSystemsJournal.org 4 Volume 7, Issue 3 / Spring–Summer 2017
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