Coloring the Cosmetic World: Using Pigments in Decorative Cosmetic Formulations

291 Pages·2021·5.536 MB·English

by  Edwin B. Faulkner

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Coloring
the Cosmetic World
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Coloring
the Cosmetic World
Using Pigments in Decorative
Cosmetic Formulations
Edwin B. Faulkner
(cid:2) Retired Director – Cosmetics, Sun Chemical (cid:2)
Edited by
Jane C. Hollenberg
JCH Consulting
Red Hook, NY, USA
SECOND EDITION
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Thiseditionfirstpublished2021
©2021JohnWiley&SonsLtd
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LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Names:Faulkner,EdwinB.,author.|Hollenberg,JaneC.,editor.
Title:Coloringthecosmeticworld:usingpigmentsindecorativecosmetic
formulations/EdwinB.Faulkner;editedbyJaneC.Hollenberg.
Description:Secondedition.|Hoboken,NJ:Wiley,2021.|Includes
bibliographicalreferencesandindex.
Identifiers:LCCN2020031693(print)|LCCN2020031694(ebook)|ISBN
9781119558101(cloth)|ISBN9781119558118(adobepdf)|ISBN
9781119558132(epub)
Subjects:LCSH:Coloringmatter.|Cosmetics.
Classification:LCCTP910.F382021(print)|LCCTP910(ebook)|DDC
668/.55–dc23
LCrecordavailableathttps://lccn.loc.gov/2020031693
LCebookrecordavailableathttps://lccn.loc.gov/2020031694
CoverDesign:Wiley
CoverImage:agsandrew/iStock/GettyImages
Setin11.5/14ptSTIXTwoTextbyStraive,Chennai,India
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Contents
Author’sBiography xi
AbouttheEditor xii
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Preface xiii
Acknowledgments xv
Introduction xvii
Chapter1: ColorBasics 1
It’saColorfulWorld 1
ColorTheoryandColorSpace 5
HumanColorPhysiology 7
ColorPhysics 8
ColorChemistry 11
ColorProperties 15
ColorNomenclature 15
Organicvs.Inorganic 16
Reference 16
Chapter2: ColorSelection–Regulations 17
TheRegulatoryHistoryintheUnitedStates 18
TheCurrentRegulatoryLandscapeintheUnitedStates 21
TheStateofRegulationsintheEuropeanUnion,Japan,andChina 28
RegulatoryChangesinChina,theUnitedStates,andtheEuropeanUnion 36
China 36
v
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vi CONTENTS
UnitedStates 37
EuropeanUnion 37
TitaniumDioxide 38
UnitedStates(Continued) 39
References 40
Chapter3: ColorSelection–Stability 43
Certifiable(SyntheticOrganic)Colorants 44
Non-solubleAzoColors 44
SolubleAzoColors 45
SlightlySolubleAzoColors 47
SolubleNon-AzoColors 49
MiscellaneousColors 50
ExemptColors 58
IronOxides 58
FerricAmmoniumFerrocyanide 59
ChromiumGreens 60
Ultramarines 60
ManganeseViolet 61
TitaniumDioxide 62
ZincOxide 62
(cid:2) Carmine 63 (cid:2)
Reference 65
Chapter4: ColorSelection–ColorEsthetics 67
Introduction 67
BeforeWeBegin… 68
ColorbyShade:Organics 69
OrganicViolets 69
OrganicReds 70
OrganicOranges 74
OrganicYellows 75
OrganicBlues 76
OrganicBlacks 77
ColorbyShade:Inorganics 77
InorganicViolets 77
InorganicReds 78
InorganicOranges 79
InorganicYellows 79
InorganicBlues 80
InorganicGreens 81
InorganicBrowns 81
InorganicBlacks 82
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Contents vii
InorganicWhites 82
ColorbyProductApplication 83
Lipstick 83
Mascara/Eyeliner 85
EyeShadow 86
BlushProducts 86
LiquidMakeup 87
NailLacquer 87
Soap 88
References 88
Chapter5: ColorSelection–Economics 89
DyeContent 91
EffectivenessofDispersion 91
DryPigmentsvs.PredispersedPigments 92
BlackIronOxidevs.D&CBlackNo.2 94
JetBlackIronOxidevs.BrownBlackIronOxide 94
BlendedIronOxidesvs.NeatIronOxides 95
Carminevs.FD&CRedNo.40AlLake 95
D&CRedNo.30Lakevs.OtherRedLakes 95
D&CYellowNo.10AlLakevs.FD&CYellowNo.5AlLake 95
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ChromiumHydroxideGreenvs.ChromiumOxideGreen 96
PackageSizes 96
Chapter6: PigmentDispersion 99
TheImportanceofDispersion 99
PigmentParticleStates 101
TheDispersionProcess 104
References 115
Chapter7: ColorMeasurementandPigmentTesting 117
PigmentTesting 117
TestMethodologies:ThreeBasicMethods 121
ColorMeasurement 130
CIEL*a*b*,ADetailedView 132
SamplePreparation 135
Chapter8: SurfaceTreatedPigments 137
OriginsofSurfaceTreatedPigments 137
BenefitsofSurfaceTreatmentofPigments 138
CommercialSurfaceTreatments 140
SurfaceTreatmentMechanisms 142
PerformanceTestingofTreatmentTypes 143
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viii CONTENTS
IntellectualPropertySurroundingSurfaceTreatments 148
UsingTreatedPigmentsandSubstrates 148
ChoosingTreatments 149
Reference 150
Chapter9: EffectPigments 151
GeneralPropertiesofLight 151
GeneralLightInterferencePropertiesofEffectPigments 154
TraditionalCommerciallyAvailableEffectPigments 155
NaturalPearlPigment 155
BismuthOxychloride 156
OxideCoatedMicas 161
ColorEffectofOxideCoatedMicas 165
UsageofOxideCoatedPigmentsinDecorativeCosmetics 168
RegulatoryConsiderationsWhenUsingOxideCoatedPigmentsin
DecorativeCosmetics 169
OtherEffectPigments 170
EconomicsofOxideCoatedMicasandOtherEffectPigments 171
Reference 172
Chapter10: SpecialtyPigments 173
MetallicPigments 173
(cid:2) AluminumPigments 178 (cid:2)
AluminumPigmentRegulations 180
UsingAluminumPigments 181
CopperandBronzePigments 182
CopperandBronzePigmentRegulations 183
UsingCopperandBronzePigments 184
FluorescentandPhosphorescentPigments 184
FluorescentPigments 185
FluorescentPigmentRegulations 187
UsingFluorescentPigments 188
EconomicsofFluorescentPigments 189
PhosphorescentPigments 189
Glitter 190
GlitterRegulations 190
UsingGlitter 193
EconomicsofGlitter 193
SilverandGoldPigments 193
SilverandGoldPigmentRegulations 194
EconomicsofSilverandGoldPigments 195
Summary 195
References 195
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