Colloids in Cosmetics and Personal Care

334 Pages·3.11 MB·english

by  Tadros T.F. (Ed.)

ColloidsinCosmetics
andPersonalCare
Editedby
TharwatF.Tadros
ColloidsandInterfaceScienceSeries,Vol.4
ColloidsinCosmeticsandPersonalCare. EditedbyTharwatF.Tadros
Copyright62008WILEY-VCHVerlagGmbH&Co.KGaA,Weinheim
ISBN:978-3-527-31464-5
Colloids and Interface Science Series
Colloid Stability
TheRoleofSurfaceForces,PartI
Volume1
2007
ISBN978-3-527-31462-1
Colloid Stability
TheRoleofSurfaceForces,PartII
Volume2
2007
ISBN978-3-527-31503-1
Colloid Stability and Applications in Pharmacy
Volume3
2007
ISBN978-3-527-31463-8
Colloids in Cosmetics and Personal Care
Volume4
2007
ISBN978-3-527-31464-5
Colloids in Agrochemicals
Volume5
2007
ISBN978-3-527-31465-2
Colloids in Paints
Volume6
2007
ISBN978-3-527-31466-9
Colloids and Interface Science Series
Volume 4
Colloids in Cosmetics and Personal Care
Edited by
Tharwat F.Tadros
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ª2008WILEY-VCHVerlagGmbH&Co.KGaA,
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ISBN 978-3-527-31464-5
V
Contents
Preface VII
ListofContributors IX
1 ColloidAspectsofCosmeticFormulationswithParticularReference
toPolymericSurfactants 1
TharwatF.Tadros
Abstract 1
1.1 Introduction 2
1.2 InteractionForcesandTheirCombination 4
1.3 Self-AssemblyStructuresinCosmeticFormulations 11
1.4 StructureofLiquidCrystallinePhases 12
1.4.1 HexagonalPhase 12
1.4.2 MicellarCubicPhase 13
1.4.3 LamellarPhase 14
1.4.4 DiscontinuousCubicPhases 15
1.4.5 ReversedStructures 15
1.5 DrivingForceforFormationofLiquidCrystallinePhases 15
1.6 PolymericSurfactantsinCosmeticFormulations 17
1.7 PolymericSurfactantsforStabilizationofNanoemulsions 20
1.8 PolymericSurfactantsinMultipleEmulsions 28
1.9 PolymericSurfactantsforStabilizationofLiposomesandVesicles 31
1.10 Conclusions 33
References 33
2 FormulationandStabilizationofNanoemulsionsUsingHydrophobically
ModifiedInulin(Polyfructose)PolymericSurfactant 35
TharwatF.Tadros,MartineLemmens,BartLevecke,andKarlBooten
Abstract 35
2.1 Introduction 36
2.2 Materials 38
2.3 PreparationofNanoemulsions 39
ColloidsandInterfaceScienceSeries,Vol.4
ColloidsinCosmeticsandPersonalCare. EditedbyTharwatF.Tadros
Copyright62008WILEY-VCHVerlagGmbH&Co.KGaA,Weinheim
ISBN:978-3-527-31464-5
VI Contents
2.4 DeterminationofDropletDiameter 39
2.5 StericStabilizationofNanoemulsionsandtheRoleoftheAdsorbed
LayerThickness 40
2.6 OstwaldRipening 42
2.7 ResultsandDiscussion 44
2.8 Conclusions 49
References 49
3 IntegratingPolymericSurfactantsinCosmeticFormulations
fortheEnhancementofTheirPerformanceandStability 51
TharwatF.Tadros,MartineLemmens,BartLevecke,
andKarlBooten
Abstract 51
3.1 Introduction 52
3.2 MaterialsandMethods 53
3.3 ResultsandDiscussion 55
3.3.1 MassageLotion 55
3.3.2 HydratingShowerGel 57
3.3.2.1 SurfaceViscosityandElasticityTheory 57
3.3.2.2 TheGibbs–MarangoniEffectTheory 57
3.3.2.3 SurfaceForcesTheory(DisjoiningPressurep) 58
3.3.3 SoftConditioner 59
3.3.4 SunSpraySPF19 59
3.4 Conclusions 59
References 60
4 ApplicationofColloidandInterfaceSciencePrinciplesfor
OptimizationofSunscreenDispersions 61
LornaM.Kessell,BenjaminJ.Naden,IanR.Tooley,and
TharwatF.Tadros
Abstract 61
4.1 Introduction 62
4.2 StericStabilization 63
4.3 SolubilityParameters 65
4.4 InfluenceoftheAdsorbedLayerThicknessontheEnergy–Distance
Curve 66
4.5 CriteriaforEffectiveStericStabilizationandInfluenceofOther
IngredientsintheFormulation 67
4.6 MaterialsandMethods 67
4.7 Results 69
4.7.1 AdsorptionIsotherms 69
4.7.2 DispersantDemand 70
4.7.3 QualityofDispersionUV-VisAttenuation 71
Contents VII
4.7.4 SolidsLoading 72
4.7.5 SPFPerformanceinEmulsionPreparations 73
4.8 Discussion 74
4.8.1 CompetitiveInteractionsinFormulations 76
4.9 Conclusion 77
References 77
5 UseofAssociativeThickenersasRheologyModifiersforSurfactant
Systems 79
TharwatF.TadrosandStevenHousley
Abstract 79
5.1 Introduction 79
5.2 SurfactantSystemsasRheologyModifiers 80
5.3 AssociativeThickenersasRheologyModifiers 81
5.4 MaterialsandMethods 86
5.5 Results 87
5.6 Discussion 90
5.7 Conclusion 91
References 91
6 CosmeticEmulsionsBasedonSurfactantLiquidCrystallinePhases:
Structure,RheologyandSensoryEvaluation 93
TharwatF.Tadros,SandraLe´onard,CornelisVerboom,VincentWortel,
Marie-ClaireTaelman,andFredericoRoschzttardtz
Abstract 93
6.1 Introduction 93
6.2 StructureofLiquidCrystallinePhases 94
6.3 DrivingForcefortheFormationofLiquidCrystallinePhases 95
6.4 FormulationofLiquidCrystallinePhases 97
6.4.1 Oleosomes 97
6.4.2 Hydrosomes 98
6.5 EmulsionStabilizationUsingLamellarLiquidCrystals 98
6.6 MaterialsandMethods 99
6.7 ResultsandDiscussion 101
6.7.1 EmulsionStructureandRheology 101
6.7.2 EmulsionStructureandSensoryAttributes 103
6.7.3 EmulsionStructure,RheologyandSensoryAttributes 103
6.8 Conclusion 104
References 105
VIII Contents
7 PersonalCareEmulsionsBasedonSurfactant–BiopolymerMixtures:
CorrelationofRheologicalParameterswithSensoryAttributes 107
TharwatF.Tadros,SandraLe´onard,CornelisVerboom,VincentWortel,
Marie-ClaireTaelman,andFredericoRoschzttardtz
Abstract 107
7.1 Introduction 108
7.2 MaterialsandMethods 109
7.2.1 Materials 109
7.2.2 PreparationofPowderDispersions 109
7.2.3 PreparationoftheEmulsion 110
7.2.4 RheologicalMeasurements 111
7.2.5 PrincipalComponentAnalysis(PCA) 112
7.3 Results 112
7.3.1 RheologicalResultsforXanthanGumandKXSolutions 112
7.3.2 RheologicalInvestigationofStabilizingSystems 113
7.3.3 RheologicalInvestigationsofEmulsions 114
7.3.3.1 InfluenceofArlatoneConcentration 114
7.3.3.2 InfluenceofOilVolumeFraction 117
7.3.3.3 InfluenceofTemperatureontheRheologyofKX,ArlatoneV100,
ArlatoneV175andtheEmulsionsPreparedUsingtheStabilizers 119
7.3.4 PCAResults 119
7.4 Discussion 122
7.5 Conclusions 125
References 126
8 Correlationof‘‘BodyButter’’TextureandStructureofCosmetic
EmulsionswithTheirRheologicalCharacteristics 127
TharwatF.Tadros,SandraLe´onard,CornelisVerboom,VincentWortel,
Marie-ClaireTaelman,andFredericoRoschzttardtz
Abstract 127
8.1 Introduction 128
8.2 Experimental 129
8.2.1 Materials 129
8.2.2 RheologicalMeasurements 129
8.2.2.1 Flow–ViscosityCurveMeasurements 129
8.2.2.2 Dynamic(Oscillatory)Measurements 131
8.2.2.3 ConstantStress(CreepTest)Measurements 132
8.2.3 SchematicRepresentationoftheRheologicalCurves 132
8.2.4 SpectrumDescriptiveAnalysis 132
8.2.5 PrincipalComponentAnalysis 133
8.3 ResultsandDiscussion 133
8.4 Conclusion 143
References 144
Contents IX
9 InterparticleInteractionsinColorCosmetics 145
LornaM.KessellandTharwatF.Tadros
Abstract 145
9.1 Introduction 145
9.2 FundamentalPrinciplesofPreparationofPigmentDispersions 146
9.2.1 WettingofthePowder 146
9.2.2 WettingoftheInternalSurface 147
9.3 AssessmentofWettability 148
9.3.1 SubmersionTest – SinkingTimeorImmersionTime 148
9.3.2 ContactMeasurementforAssessmentofWettability 149
9.4 DispersingAgents 150
9.5 Stabilization 151
9.5.1 ElectrostaticStabilization 152
9.5.2 StericStabilization 153
9.5.3 OptimizingElectrostericandStericStabilization 154
9.6 Surface–AnchorInteractions 154
9.7 OptimizingStericPotential 155
9.8 ClassesofDispersingAgents 157
9.9 AssessmentofDispersants 159
9.9.1 AdsorptionIsotherms 159
9.9.2 MeasurementofDispersionandParticleSizeDistribution 160
9.9.3 RheologicalMeasurements 160
9.10 ApplicationoftheAboveFundamentalPrinciplestoColor
Cosmetics 162
9.11 PrinciplesofPreparationofColorCosmetics 163
9.11.1 Dispersion/Comminution 164
9.11.2 OptimizingDispersioninPractice 165
9.11.3 Suspoemulsions 166
9.12 Conclusions 167
References 167
10 Starch-BasedDispersions 169
Igna´cCapek
Abstract 169
10.1 Introduction 170
10.2 Starch-BasedNanomaterials 177
10.2.1 ModificationApproaches 177
10.2.2 Crosslinking/Gelatinization 184
10.2.3 Grafting 191
10.3 Dispersions 201
10.4 Nanocomposites,BlendsandTheirProperties 212
10.5 Biodegradability 225
10.6 Starch–AdditiveComplexes 227
10.7 Conclusions 235
References 241
X Contents
11 InVivoSkinPerformanceofaCationicEmulsionBaseinComparison
withanAnionicSystem 247
SlobodankaTamburic
Abstract 247
11.1 Introduction 247
11.2 MaterialsandMethods 249
11.2.1 Materials 249
11.2.2 Methods 251
11.3 ResultsandDiscussion 252
11.4 Conclusion 256
References 256
12 TheImpactofUreaontheColloidalStructureofAlkylpolyglucoside-
BasedEmulsions:PhysicochemicalandInVitro/InVivo
Characterization 259
SnezanaSavic,SlobodankaTamburic,BiljanaJancic,JelaMilic,
andGordanaVuleta
Abstract 259
12.1 Introduction 260
12.2 Experimental 261
12.2.1 Materials 261
12.2.2 PreparationofSamples 261
12.2.3 PhysicochemicalCharacterization 261
12.2.3.1 Microscopy 261
12.2.3.2 Wide-AngleX-RayDiffraction(WAXD) 261
12.2.3.3 pHMeasurements 262
12.2.3.4 ConductivityMeasurements 262
12.2.3.5 RheologicalMeasurements 262
12.2.3.6 ThermogravimetricAnalysis(TGA) 262
12.2.4 InVivoShort-TermStudy 262
12.2.4.1 StudyDesign 263
12.2.5 InVitroReleaseStudy 263
12.2.6 StatisticalAnalysis 263
12.3 ResultsandDiscussion 264
12.3.1 PhysicochemicalCharacterization 264
12.4 Conclusion 273
References 273