Coastal geology PDF
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Juan A. Morales Coastal Geology Springer Textbooks in Earth Sciences, Geography and Environment The Springer Textbooks series publishes a broad portfolio of textbooks on Earth Sciences, Geography and Environmental Science. Springer textbooks provide comprehensive introduc- tions as well as in-depth knowledge for advanced studies. A clear, reader-friendly layout and featuressuchasend-of-chaptersummaries,workexamples, exercises,andglossarieshelpthe reader to access the subject. Springer textbooks are essential for students, researchers and applied scientists. More information about this series at https://link.springer.com/bookseries/15201 Juan A. Morales Coastal Geology 123 JuanA.Morales Department ofEarth Science University of Huelva Huelva,Spain ISSN 2510-1307 ISSN 2510-1315 (electronic) SpringerTextbooks inEarth Sciences, GeographyandEnvironment ISBN978-3-030-96120-6 ISBN978-3-030-96121-3 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-96121-3 ©SpringerNatureSwitzerlandAG2022 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.AllrightsarereservedbythePublisher,whetherthewholeorpartofthematerialis concerned,specificallytherightsoftranslation,reprinting,reuseofillustrations,recitation,broadcasting,reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation,computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilarmethodologynowknownorhereafterdeveloped. Theuseofgeneraldescriptivenames,registerednames,trademarks,servicemarks,etc.inthispublicationdoesnot imply,evenintheabsenceofaspecificstatement,thatsuchnamesareexemptfromtherelevantprotectivelawsand regulationsandthereforefreeforgeneraluse. Thepublisher,theauthorsandtheeditorsaresafetoassumethattheadviceandinformationinthisbookarebelieved tobetrueandaccurateatthedateofpublication.Neitherthepublishernortheauthorsortheeditorsgiveawarranty, expressedorimplied,withrespecttothematerialcontainedhereinorforanyerrorsoromissionsthatmayhavebeen made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. ThisSpringerimprintispublishedbytheregisteredcompanySpringerNatureSwitzerlandAG Theregisteredcompanyaddressis:Gewerbestrasse11,6330Cham,Switzerland End of the Earth, unnamed place. There starts the sea, no limit surface. Where the foam is born by beating waves crumbling rocks which the tides take away. Whistle between clouds, music of the wind, intense blue water that always is flowing, red sunset that bathes a wide tidal flat, sand on the beaches where children splat. Coast you’re called, poetry place where land and sea fight every day. “Eternal change” E. T. Soro This book is especially dedicated to my parents: Alfonso and Mary. They have lived for their sons. Acknowledgements I would like to acknowledge all the knowledge acquired during hours offieldwork with my dearcolleague,Dr.J.Borrego(Pepe).Withhim,IlearnedmostofthethingsthatIexplainin thisbook.Ialsounderstoodmanyconceptsaboutcoastalgeologyduringmystaysandsurveys in research centers of different universities. Doctors Poppe L. De Boer, Richard A. Davis Jr., JohnLoder,JoséOjeda,PedroProençaeCunha,PedroDepetris,PaoloCiavola,JoséManuel Gutiérrez Mas, Mouncef Sedrati, David Menier, Erwan Garel and Cheikh Ibrahima Youm were my guides during these stays. The writing of this book would have been impossible without the generosity during dec- ades of my direct colleagues Berta Carro, Irene Delgado, Germán Flor Blanco, Inmaculada Jiménez, Nieves López, Claudio Lozano, Jesús Monterde and Antonio Rodriguez-Ramírez. ThetruepromotorofthisbookwasDr.AlexisVizcaíno,whoencouragedmetoexpressmy knowledgeandhelpedmethroughtheeditorialprocess.Twopeoplecontributedsignificantly tothisbook.Dr.EdwardAnthonydidathoroughreviewofthethematiccontent,whileColette Folder did an intensive review of the English. Both of them notably helped to improve the final text and figures. Finally,themostlovingwordsaretomywifeMarMateo.Mar(Sea)enduredmyabsences forendlesshourswhilewritingthisbookduringthequarantineconfinementoftheCOVID-19 pandemic. ix Introduction Here is the first complete manual on Coastal Geology. A book that gathers the knowledge of more than a century of research on different geological aspects of the coast: dynamics of geologicalprocesses,geomorphology,sedimentologyandstratigraphy.Theyarealsoreflected from the applications of these sciences to the social problems and challenges of the com- munities occupying coastal areas. This manual collects many of my research experiences on different shores of the world, but almost everything written in this book I learned in other books.ThatiswhyIthoughtthismanualwouldnotbethefirstonCoastalGeology.However, whenIbegancollectingbibliography,beforeIbeganwriting,Irealizedthatallthebooksthat had been written so far collected partial aspects of this science: coastal dynamics, coastal geomorphology or coastal sedimentary environments. None of them united all geological aspectsinto a single vision. They all reach greaterthematic depth than this book. Iwantedto writeastudentbookthatwascomplete.Abookwritteninaneasy-to-understandlanguageand including very didactic figures (that worth more than a thousand words). A book that would cuttothechaseandcontainonlytheessentials.ThebookIwouldhavelikedtohavehadwhen I started realizing that my vocation was the coast. The final recipients are not advanced scientists,butstudents,well…alsocoastalresearcherswhostarttheircareers.Forthisreason, thechapterswillnotbeasdeepasotherbookswritten forexpertscientistsandprofessionals. But then I thought maybe any of those advanced students will need a little more information on specifics. That is why I created the advanced boxes. A geology student can really understand the book without them, but advanced boxes are intended for those coastal geol- ogists who begin their research, those who want to know more. The structure of this book isa reflection of its objectives. Content is divided into thematic units(orparts)thatincludeseveralrelatedtopics.Eachofitspartsisdedicatedtocompleting information on different aspects of the coast. Some have a purely geological content, and others focus the applications of coastal geology toward other disciplines of knowledge. Part I is a purely epistemological section that tells us about the geological vision of the coast. In this part, this science and its main concepts are defined, a history of science is outlined, the criteria of classification of the coasts are discussed, the visions that the different geologicaldisciplineshaveaboutthecoastareapproximatedandaninventoryofthedifferent methods and techniques used in research on Coastal Geology is made. Part II focuses on the study of coastal processes. Some, like waves and tides, act on dynamicsandevolutionfromaphysicalpointofview.Otherprocesseshaveapurelychemical orbiologicalcharacter.Sedimentaryandhydrologicalcontributionsfromthecontinentandthe seaconditiontherhythmsandtrendsofevolution.Allprocessesinteractwitheachother.But in the end, it all translates into a movement of particles from, to or along the coast. Part III is the most complex part of the book and the one that requires a broader vision. It focuses on the study of coastal environments. Some of these environments are erosive, but most are cumulative. Each of these topics speaks to us first of all of the geomorphological characteristics, to continue explaining the processes that give rise to that geomorphology and finally talk about its facies, facies sequences and facies models, in a more sedimentological vision. xi xii Introduction PartIVanalyzestheprocessesthatactonalongertimescaleandwhichintheendresultin the preservation of a geological record. This thematic unit captures aspects such as climate, sea-levelmovements,paleoceanographyandcomparisonwithsomecoastalsystemsthatwere preserved in other periods of Earth’s history. Part V tells us about the problems that arise from the interaction between humans and the coast.Ontheonehand,humanbeingsunbalancecoastalprocesses,andontheotherhand,the coast menaces the human being occupying the coastal areas. The end result is that man and coast have to live together, so we analyze the smartest coexistence strategy: Integral Coastal Zone Management. Finally, Part VI consists of a single chapter that gives us a perspective of what Coastal Geology studies will be in the coming years. Inshort,thisisabookthataimstoprovideafirmfoundationofknowledgetofuturecoastal geologists. Then comes specialization and deepening, but for that there are already other books.
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