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CLOTHING LEADERSHIP AMONG BOYS PDF

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CLOTHING LEADERSHIP AMONG BOYS DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By . i ALBERT S^GLICKMAN, B.A., U.A. The Ohio State University 1952 Approved by: Several pages In this thesis are not original copy. Print is very light and unreadable in several places. UNIVERSITY MICROFILMS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Without the valuable assistance and cooperation of many people this research would not have been possible- They cannot all be mentioned individually- However, some merit special ac­ knowledgment. The author is indebted to the officers and members of the Boys’ Apparel Buyers’ Association who made available a research fellowship grant which helped to defray some of the costs of the investigation- The generous assistance of Miss Shirley Trosk, Executive Secretary, in providing essential information and liaison deserves special thanks. The personal enthusiasm of Mr- Oscar Karrel, Lord & Taylor, New York, Chairman, of the Consumer Relations Committee, has been a constant source of encouragement. Grateful acknowledgment is due members of the Association who drew from their practical experience to provide information useful in the planning of the study: Mr. Felton Rainwater, Rich's Inc., Mrs. Linn Stanton, Davison-Paxon Company, and Mr* Sam Schwartz, Kline's Department Store, in Atlanta, Georgia; and Mr. J- R. McGill, F. & R. Lazarus Company, Mr. Les Rankin, Morehouse-Martens Company, and Mr. Tom Meyer, Tire Union Company, in Columbus, Ohio. Mr. Meyer graciously loaned apparel items to us which were used for some of our lantern slides. £09403 ii. For making their pupils available and providing full co­ operation, many thanks are due Mr. Paul D. West, Superintendent of Fulton County (Georgia) Schools, Mr. W. H. Kelley, Principal of Northside High School, and Miss Emma Burnett, Principal of Garden Hills School, in Atlanta, Georgia; to Mr. Douglas G. Grafflin, Principal of Horace Greeley School, Chappaqua, New York; and to their staffs and faculties. A great debt of gratitude is owed to the five hundred students in these schools who gave of their patience in order that these data might be collected. For photographic assistance, acknowledgment is made to Mr. Charles Wagner Sr. and the staff of the Photographic Service of The Ohio State University for making the lantern slides and illustrations used, and to Mr. James E. Garrett and staff of the Photographic Laboratory of the Georgia Institute of Technology for the photostats included herein. At the Georgia Institute of Technology, the writer gratefully acknowledges the statistical and clerical assistance of Mr. L. B. Pullen and others; the assistance and advice of Mr. Richard J. Manley on I.B.M* operations; the pertinent comments on several sections of the manuscript of his colleague, Mr. Edward H. Loveland; and the support of Dr. Joseph E. Moore, Head of the Department of Psychology, which greatly facilitated the writer1 s conduct of this research. iii. Sincere appreciation is extended to Mr. Irving H. Glickman for considerable informal education and valuable insights con­ cerning the boys1 -wear business, and to my wife and two sons for sharing the 11 growing pains*1 of this study and for their contri­ bution to morale. The writer would like to express his special thanks to members of an advisory committee who were ever ready to help when called upons Dr. Robert J. "Wherry, Dr, John R. Kinzer, and Dr. Donald T. Campbell, now at" the University of Chicago. Not least of all, profound tribute must be expressed to Dr. Harold E. Burtt, my principal advisor, who has been unstinting in careful constructive criticism, good counsel, and encouragement, through the whole course of this research. May, 1952. Albert S. Glickman iv TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Title Page I. INTRODUCTION 1 The importance of appearance 1 Concern of this investigation 2 The psychology of clothing - theoretical frameworks 3 A short psycho-social history of fashion— or patterns of conformity— in Western culture 10 A genetic review 18 The meaning of clothing to boys 35 Summary of boys’ clothing interests and attitudes h2 Resume' i;6 II. OBJECTIVES AND METHODOLOGY OF THE INVESTIGATION UB Primary aims U8 Supplementary implications 1|8 Scope of the investigation 51 General characteristics of the research population 52 Instruments used 5U Techniques of analysis 55 III. DEVELOPMENT AND ADMINISTRATION-OF INSTRUMENTS 57 General considerations in the development of instruments 57 Description of instruments - origins and scoring 60 Administration of instruments 96 IV. ANALYSIS OF DATA 105 Construction of scales and indices 106 Distributions of primary data 135 Factor analysis 181 Prediction of the criterion 217 V. CONCLUSIONS AND DISCUSSION Recapitulation Primary findings Secondary findings VI. SUMMARY BIBLIOGRAPHY Appendix Title A-l EXAMPLE OF QUESTIONNAIRE PART I, SOCIOMETRIC ITEMS, USED AT HORACE GREELEY SCHOOL, CHAPPAQUA, NEW YORK A-2 EXAMPLE OF QUESTIONNAIRE PART I, SOCIOMETRIC ITEMS, USED AT GARDEN HILLS SCHOOL, ATLANTA, GEORGIA A-3 EXAMPLE OF QUESTIONNAIRE PART I, SOCIOMETRIC ITEMS, USED AT NORTHSIDE HIGH SCHOOL, ATLANTA, GEORGIA B EXAMPLE OF QUESTIONNAIRE PART II, USED AT HORACE GREELEY SCHOOL, CHAPPAQUA, NEW YORK, GABDM HILLS SCHOOL, ATLANTA, GEORGIA, NORTHS IDE HI® SCHOOL, ATLANTA, GEORGIA vi. LIST OF TABLES Table Title Page 1. Summary of findings of Gilbert Youth Research Organization . 22 . 2 Point-biserial correlation of each item in the socio-economic index and total test score. 107 3. Attitudes toward clothing. Percent agreeing with each statement, i.e. marking with a cross (X). Total for grades 5 through 10. 110 h. Clothing attitude scales. 113 5. Clothing conformity Index. Frequency of choice and weights of choices. 116 6. Chi-square test of hypothesis: No significant differences exist in the proportionate fre­ quency of choice of ‘‘best-liked11 articles of clothing by the experimental populations of Chappaqua and Atlanta, when total frequen­ cies of choice for the respective popula­ tions are the basis of comparison. 126 7. Clothing leadership index key. 130 . 8 Chi-square test of response sets on Atlanta form of sociometric questionnaires. lUO 9. Sociometric nominations. 1^3 , 10 Age at last birthday. llj.8 . 11 Grade at entry to this school. 1k9 . 12 Height. 151 13. Weight. 152 lU. Socio-economic index. 151* 15. Chi-square test of socio-economic homogeneity of Atlanta population. 156 vii 16. Do you have in your home— a television set? 158 17. Do you have a favorite girl friend? 158 18. Athletic activity. 160 19- Club activity. 160 20. Times movies attended during past week. 161 21. Older brothers. 163 22. Older sisters. 16U 23. Younger brothers. 165 2lu Younger sisters. 166 25. Persons living in house regularly. 167 26. Clothing interest index. 168 27. Clothing Attitude Scale A. Belongingness- security value of clothing. 169 28. Clothing Attitude Scale B. Direct interest in • clothing— Fastidiousness. 170 29. Clothing Attitude Scale C. Status appeal of clothing. 171 30. Boys get most of their ideas about what to wear from; 173 31. Clothing conformity index. 175 32. Clothing leadership index* 176 33. Intelligence quotients. 178 3i*. Chi-square test of null hypothesis; The people who have made "no data" responses for one or more variables are not significantly different from the people who have made scorable re­ sponses for all variables, as measured by the proportion of the population in each of these two groups who are above average on those tests which everyone in both groups answers adequately. 180 viii. 35A. Chappaqua. Tetrachoric correlations between variable and total iterative factor scores. 185 3^B. Atlanta. Tetrachoric correlations between variable and total iterative factor scores. 186 36A. Chappaqua. Intercorrelatiors of iterative factors. 188 36b. Atlanta. Intercorrelations of iterative factors. 189 37A. Chappaqua. Matrix of factor loadings after transformation. 190 37B. Atlanta. Matrix of factor loadings after transformation. 191 38A. Chappaqua. Matrix of factor loadings after normalization of vectors. 193 38b. Atlanta. Matrix of factor loadings after normalization of vectors. 19U 39A. Chappaqua. Matrix of factor loadings after rotation for meaningfulness* 195 39B. Atlanta* Matrix of factor loadings after rotation for meaningfulness. 196 *. 10 Highest factor loading of each variable, Chappaqua and Atlanta. 216 IfLA. Chappaqua. Intercorrelations of: Factors after rotation for meaningfulness, clothing leader­ ship index, and criterion. 219 1*1B. Atlanta. Intercorrelations of: Factors after rotation for meaningfulness and criterion. 220 1*2A. Chappaqua. Analysis of multiple correlation. 222 1*2B. Atlanta. Analysis of multiple correlation. 222 U3. Variables which appear in scoring keys of factors which appear in Atlanta and Chap­ paqua regression equations, identified by the letter of the factor with which asso­ . ciated. 231 U*. Glothing leadership predictor scale. 2 3k-

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