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Clothing Culture, 1350-1650 PDF

310 Pages·2016·29.711 MB·English
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CLOTHING CULTURE, 1350-1650 For A.D, fond memories and all love 17.6.1929-21.1.2004 'And the eyes of them both were opened, & they knew that they were naked, and they sewed figge leaues together, and made themselues aprons. And they heard the voyce of the LORD God, walking in the garden in the coole of the day : and Adam and his wife hid themselues from the presence of the LORD God, amongst the trees of the garden. And the LORD God called vnto Adam, and said vnto him, Where an thou? And he said, I heard thy voice in the garden : and I was afraid, because I was naked, and I hid my selfe. And he said, Who told thee, that thou wast naked?' 'Vnto Adam also, and to his wife, did the LORD God make coates of skinnes, and cloathed them ... So he droue out the man : and he placed at the East of the garden of Eden, Cherubims, and a flaming sword, which turned euery way, to keepe the way of the tree of life.' A place to begin, Genesis, Chapter 3, verses 7-11,21,24, King James Bible, 1611 Clothing Culture, 1350-1650 Edited by CATHERINE RICHARDSON O Routledge Taylor & Francis Group AND First published 2004 by Ashgate Publishing Published 2016 by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN 711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017, USA Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business Copyright © Catherine Richardson 2004 The editor has asserted her moral right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as the editor of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Clothing culture 1350-1650. - (The history of retailing and consumption) 1. Costume - Europe - History 2. Costume - Social aspects - Europe - History 3. Costume - England - History 4. Costume - Social aspects - England - History 5. Fashion - Europe - History 6. Fashion - England - History I. Richardson, Catherine 3911.0094 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Clothing culture, 1350-1650 / edited by Catherine Richardson. p. cm. — (The history of retailing and consumption) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-7546-3842-1 (alk. paper) 1. Costume - Europe -History. 2. Costume - History - Medieval, 500-1500. 3. Costume - History - 17th century. 4. Clothing and dress - Social aspects - Europe. I. Richardson, Catherine. II. Series. GT575.C58 2004 391'.0094—dc22 2003028035 ISBN 13: 978-0-7546-3842-1 (hbk) Contents General Editor's Preface vii List of Illustrations viii List of Tables xi List of Contributors xii Acknowledgements xv List of Abbreviations xvi 1 Introduction Catherine Richardson 1 Section One: Fabrics of Nation 2 The Cultural Significance of Costume Books in Sixteenth-Century Europe 29 Ulrike Ilg 3 A Question of Nation: Foreign Clothes on the English Subject 49 Roze Hentschell 4 Tomb Effigies and Archaic Dress in Sixteenth-Century Ireland 63 Elizabeth Wincott Hechett 5 The Formation of Russian Women's Costume at the Time before the Reforms of Peter the Great 77 Oksana Sekatcheva Section Two: Marking Distinctions 6 Clothing Courtesans: Fabrics, Signals, and Experiences 95 Tessa Storey 1 Clothing the Naked in Late Medieval East Kent 109 Sheila Sweetinburgh 8 Dress, Nudity and Calvinist Culture in Sixteenth-Century France 123 Graeme Murdoch vi Clothing Culture, 1350-1650 9 Social Fabric in Thynne's Debate Between Pride and Lowliness 137 Claire Bart ram Section Three: Material Movements 10 Clothing Distributions and Social Relations c. 1350-1500 153 Joanna Crawford 11 Fashion, Finance, Foreign Politics and the Wardrobe of Henry VIII 165 Maria Hayward 12 Reworked Material: Discourses of Clothing Culture in Early Sixteenth-Century Greenwich 179 Elisabeth Salter Section Four: Discourse, Body, Gender 13 This one poore blacke gowne lined with white': The Clothing of the Sixteenth-Century English Book 195 Helen Smith 14 'Havying nothing upon hym saving onely his sherte': Event, Narrative and Material Culture in Early Modern England 209 Catherine Richardson 15 Rips and Slits: The Torn Garment and the Medieval Self 223 Andrea Denny-Brown 16 Speaking to Reveal: The Body and Acts of 'Exposure' in Early Modern Popular Discourse 239 Elizabeth Hallam Bibliography 263 Index 287 The History of Retailing and Consumption General Editor's Preface It is increasingly recognised that retail systems and changes in the patterns of consumption play crucial roles in the development and societal structure of economies. Such recognition has led to renewed interest in the changing nature of retail distribution and the rise of consumer society from a wide range of academic disciplines. The aim of this multidisciplinary series is to provide a forum of publications that explore the history of retailing and consumption. Gareth Shaw University of Exeter, UK List of Illustrations Figure 2.1 Francois Deserpz, Receuil de la diuersite des habits, qui sont de present en vsage, tant espays d'Europe, Asie, Affrique & Isles sauuage, Paris 1564, title page. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 31 Figure 2.2 Ferdinando Bertelli, Omnium fere gentium nostrae aetatis habitus, Venice 1563, title page. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 32 Figure 2.3 Hans Weigel, Habitus praecipuorum populorum tarn virorum quam foeminarum singulari arte depicti (...), Nurnberg 1577, title page. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 34 Figure 2.4 Apostles Thomas, Marc and Lucas with people of Asia, Frisia, Panfilia and Egypt, mosaics in the Pentecost Dome of S. Marco in Venice, late twelfth century. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 36 Figure 2.5 Landscape and inhabitants of the Biscaya, etching in Georg Braun/Frans Hogenberg, Civitates orbis terrarum, Cologne 1572-1617. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 39 Figure 2.6 Turkish whore, woodcut in lost Amman, Gynaeceum sine theatrum mulierum artificiosissimis nunc primum figuris (...) expressos (...), Frankfurt 1586. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 41 Figure 2.7 Englishwoman, woodcut in lost Amman, Gynaeceum siue theatrum mulierum artificiosissimis nunc primum figuris (...) expressos (...), Frankfurt 1586. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 44

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