Clothing Culture, 1350-1650

310 Pages·2016·29.711 MB·English

by  Catherine Richardson (ed.)

CLOTHING CULTURE, 1350-1650
For A.D, fond memories and all love
17.6.1929-21.1.2004
'And the eyes of them both were opened, & they knew that
they were naked, and they sewed figge leaues together, and
made themselues aprons. And they heard the voyce of the
LORD God, walking in the garden in the coole of the day : and
Adam and his wife hid themselues from the presence of the
LORD God, amongst the trees of the garden. And the LORD
God called vnto Adam, and said vnto him, Where an thou?
And he said, I heard thy voice in the garden : and I was afraid,
because I was naked, and I hid my selfe. And he said, Who
told thee, that thou wast naked?'
'Vnto Adam also, and to his wife, did the LORD God make
coates of skinnes, and cloathed them ... So he droue out the
man : and he placed at the East of the garden of Eden,
Cherubims, and a flaming sword, which turned euery way, to
keepe the way of the tree of life.'
A place to begin, Genesis, Chapter 3, verses 7-11,21,24,
King James Bible, 1611
Clothing Culture, 1350-1650
Edited by
CATHERINE RICHARDSON
O Routledge
Taylor & Francis Group
AND
First published 2004 by Ashgate Publishing
Published 2016 by Routledge
2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN
711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017, USA
Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business
Copyright © Catherine Richardson 2004
The editor has asserted her moral right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be
identified as the editor of this work.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any
form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented,
including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system,
without permission in writing from the publishers.
Notice:
Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for
identification and explanation without intent to infringe.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Clothing culture 1350-1650. - (The history of retailing and consumption)
1. Costume - Europe - History 2. Costume - Social aspects - Europe - History 3.
Costume - England - History 4. Costume - Social aspects - England - History 5.
Fashion - Europe - History 6. Fashion - England - History
I. Richardson, Catherine
3911.0094
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Clothing culture, 1350-1650 / edited by Catherine Richardson.
p. cm. — (The history of retailing and consumption)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 0-7546-3842-1 (alk. paper)
1. Costume - Europe -History. 2. Costume - History - Medieval, 500-1500. 3.
Costume - History - 17th century. 4. Clothing and dress - Social aspects - Europe.
I. Richardson, Catherine. II. Series.
GT575.C58 2004
391'.0094—dc22
2003028035
ISBN 13: 978-0-7546-3842-1 (hbk)
Contents
General Editor's Preface vii
List of Illustrations viii
List of Tables xi
List of Contributors xii
Acknowledgements xv
List of Abbreviations xvi
1 Introduction
Catherine Richardson 1
Section One: Fabrics of Nation
2 The Cultural Significance of Costume Books in
Sixteenth-Century Europe 29
Ulrike Ilg
3 A Question of Nation: Foreign Clothes on the
English Subject 49
Roze Hentschell
4 Tomb Effigies and Archaic Dress in Sixteenth-Century Ireland 63
Elizabeth Wincott Hechett
5 The Formation of Russian Women's Costume at the Time
before the Reforms of Peter the Great 77
Oksana Sekatcheva
Section Two: Marking Distinctions
6 Clothing Courtesans: Fabrics, Signals, and Experiences 95
Tessa Storey
1 Clothing the Naked in Late Medieval East Kent 109
Sheila Sweetinburgh
8 Dress, Nudity and Calvinist Culture in Sixteenth-Century France 123
Graeme Murdoch
vi Clothing Culture, 1350-1650
9 Social Fabric in Thynne's Debate Between Pride and Lowliness 137
Claire Bart ram
Section Three: Material Movements
10 Clothing Distributions and Social Relations c. 1350-1500 153
Joanna Crawford
11 Fashion, Finance, Foreign Politics and the Wardrobe of Henry VIII 165
Maria Hayward
12 Reworked Material: Discourses of Clothing Culture in
Early Sixteenth-Century Greenwich 179
Elisabeth Salter
Section Four: Discourse, Body, Gender
13 This one poore blacke gowne lined with white':
The Clothing of the Sixteenth-Century English Book 195
Helen Smith
14 'Havying nothing upon hym saving onely his sherte':
Event, Narrative and Material Culture in Early Modern England 209
Catherine Richardson
15 Rips and Slits: The Torn Garment and the Medieval Self 223
Andrea Denny-Brown
16 Speaking to Reveal: The Body and Acts of 'Exposure' in
Early Modern Popular Discourse 239
Elizabeth Hallam
Bibliography 263
Index 287
The History of Retailing and
Consumption
General Editor's Preface
It is increasingly recognised that retail systems and changes in the patterns
of consumption play crucial roles in the development and societal structure of
economies. Such recognition has led to renewed interest in the changing nature
of retail distribution and the rise of consumer society from a wide range of
academic disciplines. The aim of this multidisciplinary series is to provide a forum
of publications that explore the history of retailing and consumption.
Gareth Shaw
University of Exeter, UK
List of Illustrations
Figure 2.1 Francois Deserpz, Receuil de la diuersite des habits, qui
sont de present en vsage, tant espays d'Europe, Asie,
Affrique & Isles sauuage, Paris 1564, title page.
(Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 31
Figure 2.2 Ferdinando Bertelli, Omnium fere gentium nostrae aetatis
habitus, Venice 1563, title page. (Photograph by Ulrike
Ilg). 32
Figure 2.3 Hans Weigel, Habitus praecipuorum populorum tarn
virorum quam foeminarum singulari arte depicti (...),
Nurnberg 1577, title page. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 34
Figure 2.4 Apostles Thomas, Marc and Lucas with people of Asia,
Frisia, Panfilia and Egypt, mosaics in the Pentecost Dome
of S. Marco in Venice, late twelfth century. (Photograph
by Ulrike Ilg). 36
Figure 2.5 Landscape and inhabitants of the Biscaya, etching in
Georg Braun/Frans Hogenberg, Civitates orbis terrarum,
Cologne 1572-1617. (Photograph by Ulrike Ilg). 39
Figure 2.6 Turkish whore, woodcut in lost Amman, Gynaeceum sine
theatrum mulierum artificiosissimis nunc primum figuris
(...) expressos (...), Frankfurt 1586. (Photograph by Ulrike
Ilg). 41
Figure 2.7 Englishwoman, woodcut in lost Amman, Gynaeceum siue
theatrum mulierum artificiosissimis nunc primum figuris
(...) expressos (...), Frankfurt 1586. (Photograph by Ulrike
Ilg). 44