Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism PDF
Preview Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism
Classic Chic CALIFORNIA STUDIES IN 20TH-CENTURY MUSIC Richard Taruskin,General Editor 1. Revealing Masks:Exotic Influences and Ritualized Performance in Modernist Music Theater,by W.Anthony Sheppard 2. Russian Opera and the Symbolist Movement,by Simon Morrison 3. German Modernism:Music and the Arts,by Walter Frisch 4. New Music,New Allies:American Experimental Music in West Germany from the Zero Hour to Reunification,by Amy Beal 5. Bartók,Hungary,and the Renewal of Tradition:Case Studies in the Intersection of Modernity and Nationality,by David E.Schneider 6. Classic Chic:Music,Fashion,and Modernism,by Mary E.Davis Classic Chic MUSIC, FASHION, AND MODERNISM Mary E. Davis UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS BERKELEY LOS ANGELES LONDON The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous contribution to this book provided by the Ahmanson Foundation Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation. University of California Press,one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States,enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities,social sciences,and natural sciences.Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions.For more information,visit www.ucpress.edu. University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles,California University of California Press,Ltd. London,England © 2006by The Regents of the University of California Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Davis,Mary E.,1959–. Classic chic :music,fashion,and modernism / Mary E.Davis. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn-13:978–0-520–24542–6(cloth :alk.paper) isbn-10:0–520–24542–3(cloth :alk.paper) 1.Musicians—Clothing—20th century. 2.Fashion—History—20th century. 3.Popular culture. 4.Popular music—History and criticism. I.Title. II.Series. ml3470.d37 2006 700.9’041—dc22 2005035586 Manufactured in the United States of America 15 14 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of ansi/niso z39.48–1992(r1997) (Permanence of Paper). For Richard Gordon Contents List of Illustrations xi Acknowledgments xvii 1 MAGAZINES, MUSIC, AND MODERNISM 1 2 PAUL POIRET 22 3 LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 48 4 GERMAINE BONGARD 93 5 VANITY FAIR 117 6 COCO CHANEL 153
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