9;?= .8365/.8?7 @5>4 ;.<>5/?6.< <121<18/1 >9 /9;1= .= 65>?<35/.6 =49@";51/1=! 1//61=5.=>5/.6 1A17;6.<= .80 1?/4.<5=>5/ 1A131>1= /IQJRSJNF 6JNNFLL . >IFRJR =TCMJSSFE GOQ SIF 0FHQFF OG ;I0 BS SIF ?NJUFQRJSX OG =S# .NEQFVR &++) 2TLL MFSBEBSB GOQ SIJR JSFM JR BUBJLBCLF JN <FRFBQDI-=S.NEQFVR,2TLL>FWS BS, ISSP,$$QFRFBQDI"QFPORJSOQX#RS"BNEQFVR#BD#TK$ ;LFBRF TRF SIJR JEFNSJGJFQ SO DJSF OQ LJNK SO SIJR JSFM, ISSP,$$IEL#IBNELF#NFS$&%%’($’+’* >IJR JSFM JR PQOSFDSFE CX OQJHJNBL DOPXQJHIS to with particular reference and cz, CHRISTINE LINNELL CONTENTS LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 2 ABSTRACT 9 PREFACE 10 . difficulties during Anglicanum; encountered research of opus acknowledgements ODUCTION 16 - for indication thesis; statement of position arrived at of situation of current iconography; intention for scholarship and critics; significance of study of iconography four to determine function on copes; aim of copes through liturgical importance their in examination of context; of angels the pre-Mass context lines their two and role on copes; of enquiry 1. THE COPE AS T TU RGICAL SHOW-PIECE 22 - brief introduction its to origins, applications and processional role; account of the implications for the symbolic properties and wearer; categorisation of the extant examples; examination of the special nature of the 'celebration' 'pontifical' and copes 2. OPUSANGLICANUM. PRODUCTION METHOD4 AND WORKSHOP PRAC71CRS 50 - importance the English short account of nature and of medieval ecclesiastical discussion embroidery, of suggested methods of production; exploration of held beliefs currently regarding professional workshops and their possible likelihood 3. PRIMARY SOURCES 94 - implications Matthew Paris investigation of reference; English Italian of and inventories; conclusion from the findings; consideration of Velletri Roll as possible design for model source embroidery 4. THE COPE AS FC FS ASTICAT. AR. 136 part one . - _XRMPT. the imagery, in iconographic close examination of representational complete found the Anagni Bologna programmes, as on and copes; general comments on features for the vestments and particular as evidence certain assumptions, and be drawn from to the conclusions exercise 5. TH COPE AS ECCLESIASTICAL EXEMPLAR, 183 two part - the later Lateran Pienza to close examination as above of and copes; attempts explain their individualised programmes; summation of the findings of the four studies, justification for function the in and proposed of vestment a eucharistic setting 6. THE COPE Ag EUCHARISTIC EXEGETE 224 - introduction to the the demonstration the liturgical church setting and sacrament; of how function the they the the connection of copes and within context of pre-Mass; investigation the the the of significance of sanctus; examination of relationship between the imagery the "pontifical" the of vestments and sanctus, which establishes the underlying theological authority of the iconography in general and the unique by luxury items contribution made these to the celebration of the eucharist APPENDICES 248 BIBLIOGRAPHY 254 -1- Complete for be found in the Bibliography the the text. citations sources may at end of by All taken the photographs, except where otherwise specified, were author. Bologna Cope, English Embroidery; Frontispiece. c1290-1300. Museo Ctvico Medlevale, Bologna. (C. N. B. & C. di Bologna) Pl. 1 St Gregg St, Benedict Tinted drawings from MS. and a model-book, 112, 2. p. Stiftsbibliothek, Einsiedeln. (Source: Dodwell, 1993,8, Fig. 7. ) Pl. 2 Ascoli Piceno Cope, English Embroidery, detail: Pope Clement c1265-72, N (1265-68), bishop. with archbishop and Pinacoteca Civica, Ascoli Piceno. (Alinari. ) Pl. 3 Story Archangel Michael Mont St Michel, detail: Bishop St. o on c1464, Auberto. Antoniazzo Romano Melozzo da Forli. and Chapel the Holy Angel, Santi degli Apostoli, Rome. (V. Tiberia, of Antoniazzo Romanoper il Cardinale Bessarione Roma. ) a Pl. 4 Stow Archangel Michael Mont St Michel, detail: of on c1464, Franciscans two Antoniazzo Romano Melozzo da Forli. and priests. and Chapel the Holy Angel, Santi degli Apostoli, Rome. (V. Tiberia, of Antoniazzo Romanoper il Cardinale Bessarione Roma. ) a Pl. 5 Students Slate Frame in the Royal School Needlework, working at a of Hampton Court Palace, Surrey. (Photograph the Royal School courtesy of ) ofNeedlework. Pl. 6 BAVArchivio Can. S. Pietro, inventari 1,1361, fol. 38'. Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana, Vatican City. (Biblioteca Apo$tolica Vaticana. ) P1.7 BAVArchivio CRn. S Metro. Inventari 1,1361, fol. 43. Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana, Vatican City. (Biblioteca Apostolfca Vaticana. ) Pl. 8 Velletri Roll, England (? ), c1270-80. Museo Capitolare, Velletri. Pl. 9 Nolf Tangere, detail: Velletri Roll. me P1.10 Embroidered Altar Frontal, Rome, c1300. Museo del Duomo, Anagni. -2- Pl. 11 Anagni Cope, English Embroidery, last 13th Century. quarter Museo del Duomo, Anagai. Pl. 12 Coronation the Virgin; detail: Anagni Cope. of P1.13 Bologna Cope. Pl. 14 Angel Carrying Crown Foiled Disc, detail: Bologna Cope. and P1.15 The Treasury, Basilica St. John Lateran, Rome. of Pl. 16 Lateran Cope, English Embroidery, c1300-20. Tesoro di S: Giovanni in Laterano, Rome. P1.17 Centre Panel Lateran Cope. of Pl. 18 Crucifixion, detail: Lateran Cope. Pl. 19 Coronation the Virg detail: Lateran Cope. of P1.20 Angel Portable Harp, detail: Lateran Cope. with 11 Museo della Cattedrale, Pienza. P1.21 Pl. 22 Pienza Cope, English Embroidery, c1325. 11 Museo della Cattedrale, Pienza. Pl. 23 Scenes from the Life the Virgin, detail: Pienza Cope. of 11 Museo della Cattedrale, Pienza. (V &A Museum. ) Pl. 24 Scenes from the Life Virgin, detail: Pienza Cope. ofthe 11 Museo della Cattedrale, Pienza. (V &A Museum. ) P1.25 Scenes from the Life the Virgin, detail: Pienza Cope. of 11 Museo della Cattedrale, Pienza. (V &A Museum. ) Pl. 26 Scenes from the Life the Virgin, detail: Pienza Cope. of 11 Museo della Cattedrale, Pienza. (V &A Museum. ) Pl. 27 Musical Angel Horseback detail: Steeple Aston Cope, English on , Embroidery, 14th Century. early Lent to the V&A Museum by the Vicar and Churchwardens of Steeple ) Aston. (Photograph from Visual Publication Transparency. a Pl. 28 bim, detail: Crypt Ceiling, Anagni Cathedral, 1250-55. Anagni Cathedral Crypt. Pl. 29 Se him, detail: Syon Cope, English Embroidery, c1300. ) V&A Museum (Photograph from Visual Publication Transparency. a -3- Pl. 30 Censing Angel, detail: Anagni Cope. Museo del Duomo, Anagni. Pl. 31 Musical Angel, detail: Lateran Cope. Tesoro di S. Giovanni in Laterano, Rome. Pl. 32 Musical Angel, detail: Bologna Cope. Fig. 1 Clare Chasuble, English Embroidery, 1272-94. V&A Museum, London. (V &A Museum. ) Fig. 2 Cantate. Monks Singing, Benedictine Choir Psalter, 14th Century. Bodleian Library, Oxford, MS. Auct d. 2.2., £ 113v. (Bodleian Library. ) Fig. 3 Ski Orphrey, English Embroidery, 2nd. 14th Century. quarter Statens Hstoriska Museer, Stockholm. (The Central Board National of Antiquities the National Historical Museums. ) and Fig. 4 Watercolour "Lost" Cope, English Embroidery, of c1315-35. Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool. (National Museums Galleries and on Merseyside. ) Fig. 5 St. Laurence, Deacon, detail: English Embroidered Orphrey, 15th early Century. (Photograph from Focal Point Filmstrips Ltd Transparency. ) Fig. 6 Central Portal Tympanum, La Madeleine, Vezelay, c1125. (Source: Pl. 4, Katzenellenbogan, 1959. ) Fig. 7 Rose Window, York Minster, c1270. Fig. 8 John Panel, English Embroidery, 1300-20. ofThanet V&A Museum. (Photograph from Visual Publication Transparency) a . Fig. 9 Peter the Deacon; detail: Durham Maniple, English Embroidery, 909-916. Durham Cathedral. (Source: Fig. 7, Ivy, 1992. ) (worked by Fig. 10 Sample Underside Couching, the author). of Fig. 11 Reverse side of above sample. Fig. 12 Sample Circle Split Stitch, (worked by the author). of of Fig. 13 Sample Laid Work, (worked by the author). of Jubilee Cope, 1977. Fig. 14 Dr. Ellison, Bishop London, the of wearing (Source: Frontispiece by Press Embroidery, 1977. ) genry, -4- Fig. 15 Beryl Dean helpers Jubilee Cope. and working on (Source: Fig. 72, Millar Harris, Embroidery, 1977. ) on p. and Fig. 16 Head detail: Pienza Cope. of a Queen, Fig. 17 Reverse Side Lateran Cope. of Fig. 18 Adoration the Magi, detail: Lateran Cope of Fig. 19 Reverse Adoration the Magi, detail: Lateran Cope. side of of Fig. 20 Pelikan, detail: Pienza Cope. Fig. 21 Women Transferring Designs, from Libro de primo rechami. ... Alessandro Paganino, 1527. (Source: Staniland, 1991, Pl. 29,32 64. ) and Fig. 22 Augel, detail: Bologa Cope. Fig. 23 Section Bologna Cope. of (Source: taken from Photocopy Fotofest Print, by Museo Ctvico of a sent Medievale, Bologna. ) Fig. 24 Cope Chests, York Minster, We 12th Century and c1280. Fig. 25 W[y into Jerusalem Betmyal, detail: Velletri Roll. and Fig. 26 Molt Tangere ?, detail: Velletri Roll. me with Fig. 27 Crucifixion Deosition, detail: Velletri Roll. and detail: Fig. 28 Fntombment, Velletri Roll. Fig. 29 Scenes from the Life the Virgin, English Embroidery, 1320-40. of V&A Museum. (Source: Pl. 11, King Levey, 1993. ) and Fig. 30 Three Maries, detail: Velletri Roll. Fig. 31 Christ before Pilate Flagellation, detail: Velletri Roll. and Fig. 32 Deposition, detail: Velletri Roll. Fig. 33 Entombment, detail: Velletri Roll. Fig. 34 Syon Cope. Fig. 35 Vatican Cope, English Embroidery, c1290. Museo Cristlano del Vaticano, Rome. Fig. 36 Entombment, detail: Anagni Cope. -5- Fig. 37 Flight into Egypt, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 38 Christ the Doctors, detail: Anagni Cope. with Fig. 39 Three Maries, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 40 Death the Virgin, detail: Anagni Cope. of Fig. 41 Miracle the Corn, detail: Anagni Cope. of Fig. 42 Nativity, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 43 Presentation in the Temp, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 44 Journey the Magi, detail: Anagni Cope. of Fig. 45 Magi before Herod, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 46 Adoration Magi, detail: the Anagni Cope. of Fig. 47 Dream the Magi, detail: Anagni Cope. of Fig. 48 Massacre the Innocents, detail: Anagni Cope. of Fig. 49 Annimcisition, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 50 Visitation, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 51 Annunciation to the Shepherds, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 52 Payment Judas, detail: Anagni Cope. of Fig. 53 Noll Tangere, detail: Anagni Cope. me Fig. 54 Descent into Limbo, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 55 Assumption, detail: Anagni Cope. Fig. 56 Martyrdom Becket; detail: Bologna Cope. ofThomae Fig. 57 Adoration the Magi, detail: Bologna Cope. of Fig. 58 Edry into Jerusalem, detail: Bologna Cope. Fig. 59 Bemal, detail: Bologna Cope. Fig. 60 Resurrection, detail: Bologna Cope. Fig. 61 Descent into Limbo, detail: Bologna Cope. -6- Fig. 62 Westminster Retable, c1270. Westminster Abbey. Fig. 63 Veronika Head Christ, detail: Bologna Cope. of Fig. 64 Acanthus Foliage, detail: Bologna Cope. Fig. 65 Orphrey, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 66 Martyrdom Thomas Becket, detail: Lateran Cope. of Fig. 67 Mmtyrdom St. Mart, detail: Lateran Cope. of Fig. 68 Martyrdom St. Catherine, detail: Lateran Cope. of Fig. 69 Martyrdom St. Laurence, detail: Lateran Cope. of Fig. 70 Last Super, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 71 Resurrection, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 72 Supper Emmaus, detail: Lateran Cope. at Fig. 73 Ascension Pentecost, detail: Passion Cope, English Embroidery, and 0300. Sacristy, Cathedral St. Bertrand de Comminges. (Source: Photograph of from Transparency lent by Pyre Destie, Curate St. Bertrand. ) at Fig. 74 Pentecost Coronation the Virgin, detail: Passion Cope. and of Fig. 75 loyal, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 76 Doubting Thomas, detail: Lateran Cope. of Fig. 77 Thee Maries, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 78 Annunciation, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 79 Christ before Pilate, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 80 Noli Tongere, detail: Lateran Cope. me Fig. 81 may, detail: Lateran Cope. , Fig. 82 Annunciation, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 83 Nativity, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 84 Ascension, detail: Lateran Cope. -7- Fig. 85 Pentecost, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 86 Virgin told her detail: Lateran Cope. of eatth, Fig. 87 Assumption, detail: Lateran Cope. Fig. 88 Scenes from the Life Margaret, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 89 Scenes from the Life Margaret, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 90 Scenes from the Life Catherine, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 91 Scenes from the Life Catherine, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 92 Scenes from the Life Catherine, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 93 Scenes from the Life Catherine, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 94 Scenes from the Life Catherine, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 95 Scenes from the Life Catherine, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 96 Scenes from the Life Catherine, detail: Pienza Cope. of Fig. 97 Apostles told Death the Virgin Presentation the Virgin in the of of and of Temple, details: Pienza Cope. Fig. 98 Funeral the Virgin Presentation in the Temple, details: Pienza Cope. of and Fig. 99 Apostles the Empty Bier Assumption, details: Pienza Cope. at and Fig. 100 Coronation the Virgin Nativity, detail: Pienza Cope. of and Dia. 1 Structural Plans Copes. (Source: Christie, 1938,8, Figs. 6-8. ) of Dia. 2 Underside Couching. (Source: King Levey, 1993,112, Fig. 12. ) and -8-
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