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Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States PDF

320 Pages·2009·3.67 MB·English
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Preview Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States

Chop Suey This page intentionally left blank Chop Suey ............................................................... A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States Andrew Coe 1 2009 1 Oxford University Press, Inc., publishes works that further Oxford University’s objective of excellence in research, scholarship, and education. Oxford New York Auckland Cape Town Dar es Salaam Hong Kong Karachi Kuala Lumpur Madrid Melbourne Mexico City Nairobi New Delhi Shanghai Taipei Toronto With offi ces in Argentina Austria Brazil Chile Czech Republic France Greece Guatemala Hungary Italy Japan Poland Portugal Singapore South Korea Switzerland Thailand Turkey Ukraine Vietnam Copyright © Andrew Coe 2009 Published by Oxford University Press, Inc. 198 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016 www.oup.com Oxford is a registered trademark of Oxford University Press All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of Oxford University Press. The Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Coe, Andrew. Chop suey : a cultural history of Chinese food in the United States / Andrew Coe. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN978-0-19-533107-3 1. Cookery, Chinese. 2. Food habits—United States—History. i. Title. TX724.5.C5C64 2009 641.5951–dc22 2008054664 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . t o j a n e This page intentionally left blank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c o n t e n t s Acknowledgments ix List of Illustrations xi 1 Stags’ Pizzles and Birds’ Nests 1 2 Putrifi ed Garlic on a Much-used Blanket 38 3 Coarse Rice and Water 64 4 Chinese Gardens on Gold Mountain 103 5 A Toothsome Stew 144 6 American Chop Suey 180 7 Devouring the Duck 211 Photo Credits 253 Notes 255 Bibliography 265 Index 279 This page intentionally left blank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . a c k n o w l e d g m e n t s This journey into the less-charted realms of Chinese and United States history could not have been accomplished without the assistance of many individuals and institutions. During the seemingly endless research phase of this project, I depended on the collections, staff, and resources of the New York Public Library: the Humanities and Social Sciences Library, particularly its Asian and Middle Eastern Division, and the Chinese Heritage Collection at the Chatham Square Branch Library. I also consulted the Nixon Presidential Library, the National Archives at College Park, Maryland, and the magnifi cent Dr. Jacqueline M. Newman Chinese Cookbook Collection housed in the Special Collections and University Archives of the Frank Melville Jr. Memorial Library of the State University of New York, Stonybrook. I am indebted to a Linda D. Russo Grant from the Culinary Trust for allowing me to visit the Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley, and the Chinese Historical Society of America. The exhibition “Have You Eaten Yet? The Chinese Restaurant in America” at the Museum of Chinese in the Americas was one of the inspirations for this book. During the writing phase of this project, I relied on the staff and workspaces of the New York Mercantile Library’s Writers’ Studio and the New York Society Library. For assistance during all phases of this project, I am grate- ful to Richard Snow, Magnus Bartlett, Andrew Smith, Anne

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In 1784, passengers on the ship Empress of China became the first Americans to land in China, and the first to eat Chinese food. Today there are over 40,000 Chinese restaurants across the United States--by far the most plentiful among all our ethnic eateries. Now, in Chop Suey Andrew Coe provides th
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