Table Of Content

Chocolate Chocolate A Cultural Encyclopedia Ross F. Collins Copyright © 2022 by ABC-CLIO, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in a review, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. The publisher has done its best to make sure the instructions and/or recipes in this book are correct. However, users should apply judgment and experience when preparing recipes, especially parents and teachers working with young people. The publisher accepts no responsibility for the outcome of any recipe included in this volume and assumes no liability for, and is released by readers from, any injury or damage resulting from the strict adherence to, or deviation from, the directions and/or recipes herein. The publisher is not responsible for any reader's specific health or allergy needs that may require medical supervision, nor for any adverse reactions to the recipes contained in this book. All yields are approximations. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Collins, Ross F., author. Title: Chocolate : a cultural encyclopedia / Ross F. Collins. Description: Santa Barbara, California : ABC-CLIO, [2022] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2021058133 (print) | LCCN 2021058134 (ebook) | ISBN 9781440876073 (hardcover) | ISBN 9781440876080 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Chocolate—Encyclopedias. | Chocolate—Social aspects—Encyclopedias. | BISAC: BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Industries / Food Industry | HISTORY / Civilization Classification: LCC TP640 .C675 2022 (print) | LCC TP640 (ebook) | DDC 664/.5003—dc23/eng/20211221 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021058133 LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021058134 ISBN: 978-1-4408-7607-3 (print) 978-1-4408-7608-0 (ebook) 26 25 24 23 22 1 2 3 4 5 This book is also available as an eBook. ABC-CLIO An Imprint of ABC-CLIO, LLC ABC-CLIO, LLC 147 Castilian Drive Santa Barbara, California 93117 www.abc-clio.com This book is printed on acid-free paper Manufactured in the United States of America Contents* Introduction ix Chocolate Chronology xv Essays Natural History of Cacao 1 Chocolate Conquers the World 13 Sweet History: Chocolate and Health 31 Bitter History: Slaving for Chocolate 47 The Spirit of Chocolate: Myth and Religion 61 Karl Bakkum Putting the Sweet in Popular Culture: Chocolate and the Arts 73 Michael J. Stein Politics, Exploration, and Military: Cocoa for King and Country 85 Preparation: Rituals, Recipes, and Poisons 93 Processing Cacao 107 Chocolate for Profit: The Business of Cacao 119 Chocolate-Based Recipes 131 Dotty Curry Chocolate Entries: A to Z 143 Adulteration 145 Alkali, Alkaline Salts 148 * All chapters/essays are authored by Ross F. Collins unless noted otherwise. vi Contents Antioxidants 150 Aphorisms 152 Aphrodisiac 157 Aztecs (Mexica) 160 Badianus Manuscript 163 Baker’s Chocolate, USA 164 Bean, Cocoa 166 Beverages 169 Cacao, Heirloom 173 Cadbury Chocolate (UK) 177 Caffeine/Theobromine 182 Callebaut Chocolate (Belgium) 184 Carob 185 Chicha (Chocolate Beer) 187 Chocolat, Chocolate, and Xocolatl 188 Chocolate Islands (São Tomé and Príncipe) 190 Chocolate Soldier 194 Chocolatier (Video Game) 197 Chocumentary 198 Climate Change 198 Cocoa (Computer Programming Language) 200 Cocoa Butter 201 Cocoa Powder 206 Cocoa Shells (Drink and Garden Mulch) 209 Colmenero, Antonio de Ledesma 211 Conch, Conching 214 Cortés, Hernán 218 Cosmetics 220 Criollo 222 Dahl, Roald 227 Dark Chocolate 228 Debauve & Gallais (France) 230 Desserts 232 Dogs, and Chocolate 234 Dominicans (Religious Order) 236 Dufour, Philippe Sylvestre 237 Fair Trade Chocolate 241 Contents vii Fat Bloom on Chocolate 245 Ferrero Rocher (Italy) 246 Festivals and Conferences 250 Flavonoids 252 Franciscans (Religious Order) 255 Fry Chocolate (UK) 257 Gage, Thomas 261 Ghana 264 Godiva Chocolate (Belgium) 268 Hernández, Francisco 271 Hershey’s Chocolate (USA) 273 Humoral Medicine 278 Ivory Coast (Côte d’Ivoire) 281 Jesuits (Religious Order) 285 Linnaeus, Carolus 289 María Theresa (Marie-Thérèse) 291 Mars Wrigley (USA) 293 Maya, Mayans 298 Mesoamerica 301 Metate 302 Military Campaigns and Expeditions 303 Milk Chocolate 308 Molinillo, Molinet 313 Nacional Chocolate 317 Nestlé S.A. (Switzerland) 320 Nibs 326 Pandemic of 2020–2022 331 Pepys, Samuel 333 Poison 335 Postage Stamps 340 Processors 343 Ruby Chocolate 347 Slave Trade 351 Spanish Inquisition 356 Stubbe, Henry 358 Tempering 361 Tourism 363 viii Contents Van Houten, Coenraad Johannes and Caspardus 367 Vegan Chocolate 370 White Chocolate 373 White’s Chocolate House (London) 374 Works Cited 379 About the Author and Contributors 413 Index 415 Introduction Probably no food in history has become as enrobed into world culture as chocolate. Its mythical beginnings tell a tale of ancient empires and great kings. The mysterious Olmecs, the mighty Maya; both civilizations grew to tower over Cen- tral America, and then fall into ruin, long before the rest of the world knew they existed. The Aztecs had taken power by the time of Columbus. Early Spanish explorers were dumbfounded to discover an entire culture underpinned by an almond-shaped bean natives called xocolatl. The food was part of Aztec wed- dings, funerals, harvests, and human sacrifice. It was a form of currency. It was a drink of the gods, and a drink of an emperor who, purportedly, relied on it for potency during visits to his mistresses. This was probably not literally true. And yet it was mythically true, in the sense that it became the first of a series of fables and tales, usually fascinating, sometimes lurid, often fanciful, that have for centu- ries surrounded the lore of chocolate. The first Spanish colonizers in the New World disdained chocolate. At the time, it was usually an unsweetened beverage ritualized in Aztec culture but common- place in the Maya culture of Mesoamerica. It was presumed to be a medicine, perhaps because it tasted somewhat bitter. But colonizers saw its importance to the natives and realized chocolate could be one answer to the real reason behind colonial conquest: to get rich. In appropriating native customs, the Spanish and Portuguese acquired a taste for chocolate. But they added sugar. That was the first of several European changes that brought this peculiar beverage of the Spanish and Portuguese colonies to eventually adorn the tables of popes and aristocrats throughout Europe. Chocolate was nearly always consumed as a drink during the first three centu- ries of its history in the Old World, and for probably two more millennia before that in the Americas. Because the first European occupiers of New World chocolate lands were strongly Catholic, chocolate early on became associated with the Roman Catholic Church. Chocolate culture in the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) grew to widespread use among the aristocracy both secular and religious. Catholic Orders such as the Jesuits established extensive cacao operations to pay their taxes to the Crown and to support their missionary work. The pope became familiar with chocolate as valuable gifts from the friars, and his close association with Italian aristocracy likely spread chocolate first to Italy. From