Chinese Fashion: From Mao to Now PDF
Preview Chinese Fashion: From Mao to Now
JUANJUVUAN WU eti iai1= mala lela FROM MAO TO NOW Chinese Fashion Dress, Body, Culture Series Editor: Joanne B. Eicher, Regents’ Professor, University of Minnesota Advisory Board Ruth Barnes, Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford James Hall, University oIfl linois at Chicago Ted Polhemus, Curator, “Street Style” Exhibition, Victoria and Albert Museum Griselda Pollock, University of Leeds Valerie Steele, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Lou Taylor, University of Brighton John Wright, University of Minnesota Books in this provocative series seek to articulate the connections between culture and dress, which is defined here in its broadest possible sense as any modification or supplement to the body. Interdisciplinary in approach, the series highlights the dialogue between identity and dress, cosmetics, coiffure, and body alternations as manifested in practices as varied as plastic surgery, tattooing, and ritual scarification. The series aims, in particular, to analyze the meaning of dress in relation to popular culture and gender issues and will include works grounded in anthropology, sociol- ogy, history, art history, literature, and folklore. ISSN: 1360—-466X Recently published titles in the series Brian J. McVeigh, Wearing Ideology: The Uniformity of Self-Presentation in Japan Shaun Cole, Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Men’s Dress in the Twentieth Century Kate Ince, Orlan: Millennial Female Nicola White and Ian Griffiths, The Fashion Business: Theory, Practice, Image Ali Guy, Eileen Green and Maura Banim, Through the Wardrobe: Women’s Relationships with their Clothes Linda B. Arthur, Undressing Religion: Commitment and Conversion from a Cross-Cultural Perspective William J. F. Keenan, Dressed to Impress: Looking the Part Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson, Body Dressing Leigh Summers, Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset Paul Hodkinson, Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture Michael Carter, Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich and Carla Jones, Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress Kim K. P. Johnson, Susan J. Torntore and Joanne B. Eicher, Fashion Founda- tions: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress Helen Bradley Foster and Donald Clay Johnson, Wedding Dress Across Cultures Eugenia Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt Charlotte Suthrell, Unzipping Gender: Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture Yuniya Kawamura, The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion Ruth Barcan, Nudity: A Cultural Anatomy Samantha Holland, A/fernative Femininities: Body, Age and Identity Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark, Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion Yuniya Kawamura, Fashion-ology. An Introduction to Fashion Studies Regina A. Root, The Latin American Fashion Reader Linda Welters and Patricia A. Cunningham, Twentieth-Century American Fashion Jennifer Craik, Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression Alison L. Goodrum, The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness, Globalization Annette Lynch and Mitchell D. Strauss, Changing Fashion: A Critical Introduc- tion to Trend Analysis and Meaning Marybeth C. Stalp, Quilting: The Fabric of Everyday Life Jonathan S. Marion, Ballroom: Culture and Costume in Competitive Dance Dunja Brill, Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style a Joanne Entwistle, The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion: Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling wylet) grtieahGea anne iea ne were oath tayy ee Hh ait MEN ONES, oh gunk bre noha oa % VeRveke) Aaetehyannt) apie naerstos yal thanel baw ‘ staits Nernee, POR PIES gh nag et omega pap gehen itaemy res WEIYLAS eaH ap haart Dall Aunt) Se ted ol } ee pareahes ti 4 aera ene nang a NS (etepide Poth : sored, lonnid> tt Rte Bl) oe AE Speyalh, ened, rey akon neyf y cigitot ) ht) tel Stoo Dna eenieS 2 DAL, wwalie’ iy Vy Vous “4 PPris\t een ir + svnimces clas ' eres < Se eet ihe Anh KOT $33 » SVN, > i| L uOtei sia ayh oh lievet4t yeahs H:i n det P. #0 io h (WY Gta thc) iv ey ‘ “ - ow . jis ‘ a] attend sd man \ arem epr eovio D: Yop PAR EAN OS geet, rupees oo as Noein: ’ pave) evi 3 Wowie Sealy eougysd, aie oa . a A . > Bette Solon BANA. cs | Were To i) oes be’ AN WMPD Td SANS ED Cet NT “> moamlieoll eran2 a 4 Ve eae NE LES acted Jota Pa Pl | ry van: i) “AT io Aval o fer tos A WHA ity dete alt jitter’ 16 Maer ialg h ee “; aah “Ai the,s l In a ae a » > fe dh hai Povigniticcte i q ™~ ¥ ; - . wo, Theory Peavtier, Pern tates wew end More Gwe, Sesongle aheiiaiaaA Mamet ie _ 4 od : rh J ‘ Te eT: | cyr) e2 wee. : a vy oad ae, Py e e J ¥ — ‘ : e+ As; Oy Chinese Fashion From Mao to Now Juanjuan Wu @ BERG Oxford « New York First published in 2009 by Berg Editorial offices: Ist Floor, Angel Court, 81 St Clements Street, Oxford, OX4 1AW, UK 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, USA © Juanjuan Wu 2009 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berg. Berg is the imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Wu, Juanjuan. Chinese fashion : from Mao to now / Juanjuan Wu. " p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-84520-779-3 (pbk.) ISBN-10: 1-84520-779-3 (pbk.) ISBN-13: 978-1-84520-778-6 (cloth) ISBN-10: 1-84520-778-5 (cloth) 1. Clothing and dress—China—History. 2. Fashion—China—History. 3. China—Social life and customs. I. Title. GT1555.W79 2009 391.0095 1—dc22 2009020254 British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978 184520 778 6 (Cloth) ISBN 978 184520 779 3 (Paper) Typeset by Apex CoVantage, LLC Printed in Great Britain by the MPG Books Group, Bodmin and King’s Lynn www.bergpublishers.com Contents Acknowledgments Preface xi A Note on Chinese in This Book XVI 1 The Post-Mao Fashion Revival 2 The Spread of Fashion through Mass Media 19 3 From Asexual to Unisex Sil 4 Fashion in Print 61 5 Importing Fashion Icons 85 6 Reinvented Identity: The Qipao and Tang-Style Jacket 103 7 The Evolution of the Fashion Industry: Designers and Models 127 8 Importing Dreams of Luxury: Western Brand Names 163 Epilogue 181 Notes 183 Selected Bibliography 201 Index 205 — Vil— : , ee Br : , € i prow 4 < ‘> ’ » e
The list of books you might like
