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Chez Panisse Café Cookbook PDF

391 Pages·1999·11.34 MB·English
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Preview Chez Panisse Café Cookbook

D EDICATION F C B , , , . OR ATHERINE RANDEL CHEF MENTOR AND FRIEND A CKNOWLEDGMENTS T HIS cookbook could not have happened without the collaboration of three dear friends: David Tanis, former Café chef and the most wonderful cook, who helped plan and write the book, gathering all the recipes, testing, and rewriting them; Fritz Streiff, former Chez Panisse cook and Café host and my faithful word processor, who went over the manuscript checking grammar, typography, and style; and David Lance Goines, the artist whose illustrations and design for this book so perfectly express its spirit—and who has eaten in the Café since the day it opened. We were inspired by two unforgettable past Café chefs, Catherine Brandel and Peggy Smith; the two extraordinary Café chefs at present, Gilbert Pilgram and Russell Moore; and by my partner Lindsey Shere, who continues to encourage and enlighten us. Alan Tangren, currently pastry chef and formerly our first full-time forager, provided invaluable support by researching and writing most of the material in the chapter introductions; and Kelsie Sue Kerr, another former chef, pitched in with additional knowledge and recipe testing. The other contributors to the book are the following Chez Panisse cooks and friends: Tracy Bates, Diane Bouma, Phillip Dedlow, Amy Dencler, Anne Dickey, Jenny Emanuel, Michael Emanuel, Brian Espinoza, Niloufer Ichaporia, Sharan Ikeda, Anna Kovel, Christopher Lee, David Lindsay, John Luther, Scott McGehee, Jean-Pierre Moullé, Michael Peternell, Gayle Pirie, Tasha Prysi, Charlene Reis, Mary Robida Canales, Jennifer Sherman, Anthony Tassinello, David Visick, and Samantha Wood. I want to thank them all for their dedication to the philosophy of Chez Panisse. I also owe a debt of thanks to all the other cooks, past and present; the hardworking and devoted floor staff; and our loyal customers, who have continued to give us the enthusiasm and criticism we need to help us change and grow. Finally, my gratitude to our editor, Susan Friedland, for believing in us and our idiosyncratic method of designing and writing cookbooks. C ONTENTS DEDICATION ACKNOWLEDGMENTS PREFACE CHAPTER 1: VEGETABLES Garden Lettuce Salad Romaine Leaves with Anchovy Dressing Dandelion Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette Avocado and Beet Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette Shaved Asparagus and Parmesan Salad Artichoke, Cardoon, and Endive Salad Heirloom and Cherry Tomato Salad Spring Vegetable Bagna Cauda Grilled Endives with Sauce Gribiche Minestra Verdissima (A Very Green Soup) Tuscan Bread, Bean, and Vegetable Soup Garganelli Pasta with Fava Beans Morel Mushroom Toasts Wild Mushroom Pasta Handkerchiefs Pasta Dough Wood Oven–Baked Porcini Mushrooms Vegetable Side Dishes: Spicy Broccoli Raab Artichoke Mashed Potatoes Creamy White Beans Celery Root Rémoulade Crispy Pan-Fried Potatoes Garlicky Kale Pickled Beets CHAPTER 2: EGGS & CHEESE The Perfect Hard-Cooked Egg Scrambled Eggs Panisse Wild Nettle Frittata Green Garlic Pudding Soufflé Pizzetta with Farm Egg and Prosciutto Pizza Dough Crostata di Perrella Fresh Mozzarella Salad Baked Goat Cheese with Garden Lettuces Pan-Fried Stuffed Squash Blossoms Fresh Ricotta Baked with Herbs and Olive Oil Green Cannelloni with Ricotta, Yellow Tomatoes, and Basil CHAPTER 3: FISH & SHELLFISH Oysters on the Half Shell with Mignonnette Sauce Oyster Stew with Thyme and Fennel Salmon Caviar Gravlax and Cucumber Salad Jean-Pierre’s Cured Salmon Slow-Cooked King Salmon King Salmon in Fig Leaves Saffron Pasta with Bottarga di Tonno Rare Yellowfin Tuna with Coriander and Fennel Seed Tuna Dumplings with Currants and Pine Nuts Tuna Confit with Green Beans and Shell Beans Rustic Pizza with Anchovies Simple Tomato Sauce Baked Pasta with Sardines and Wild Fennel Roasted Squid with Bread Crumbs and Oregano Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise) Venetian-Style Pickled Sand Dabs Baked Scallops with Prosciutto Meyer Lemon Relish Fish and Shellfish Cakes Salted Atlantic Cod Baked with Tomatoes Spicy Baked Crab Basic Fish Stock CHAPTER 4: BEEF Beef Carpaccio with Anchovies, Capers, and Parmesan Steak Tartare Croûtons Cold Beef Tongue Salad with Salsa Verde Salsa Verde Rib Eye Steak with Marrow and Shallots Roast Beef Sirloin Sandwich Grilled Skirt Steak with Anchovy and Garlic Sauce Alice’s Lovage Burgers Boeuf à la Ficelle with Horseradish Cream Horseradish Cream Grilled Tenderloin with Chanterelles, Garlic, and Parsley Braised Beef Cheeks in Red Mole Savory Herb Meatballs with Spaghetti Braised Beef Short Ribs with Gremolata Bollito Misto Bolognese Sauce Basic Beef Stock Basic Beef Reduction CHAPTER 5: PORK Headcheese Country Terrine with Pistachios Prosciutto, Spring Onion, and Artichoke Antipasto Pizza with Bacon, Onions, and Greens Fennel Sausage with Red Wine Smoky Garlic Sausage with Kale Catalan-Style Sausage and Clams Crépinettes with Swiss Chard Boudin Blanc Roast Suckling Pig Roast Pork Loin with Rosemary and Fennel Long-Cooked Pork Shoulder Red Wine–Braised Bacon Simple Cured Pork Chops Brine-Cured Pork Home-Cured Pancetta CHAPTER 6: LAMB Spicy Lamb Sausage Lamb Braised with Tomatoes and Garlic Grilled Boneless Lamb Leg with Olive Sauce Lamb Couscous with Turnips, Carrots, and Harissa Buttered Couscous Harissa Soupe au Pistou with Lamb Shanks Braised and Grilled Spring Lamb Warm Lamb Salad with Pomegranates and Walnuts Lamb Innards CHAPTER 7: POULTRY Cured Duck Breast “Prosciutto” Shaved Foie Gras and Rocket Salad Pigeon Salad with White Bean Toasts Warm Duck Breast Salad with Green Olive Relish Duck Confit with Baked Figs Duck Rillettes Croûtons with Chicory Salad Duck Legs Braised in Zinfandel Polenta with Duck Sauce Grilled Quail with Bread Crumb Salsa Bread Crumb Salsa Roast Chicken Pan-Fried Truffled Chicken Breasts Grilled Chicken Breasts au Poivre Pollo al Mattone with Lemon and Garlic Chicken Ballotine with Chanterelles Basic Chicken Stock CHAPTER 8: SWEETS Affogato Meyer Lemon Éclairs Comice Pear Crisp Panna Cotta Lindsey’s Chocolate Cake with Sicilian Sabayon Honey-Pistachio Brittle Ice Cream with Lavender Sauce Cherry Clafoutis Angel Food Cake Plum and Pluot Galette Galette Dough Chocolate Espresso Custard

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We hung the walls with old French movie posters advertising the films of Marcel Pagnol, films that had already provided us with both a name and an ideal: to create a community of friends, lovers, and relatives that span generations and is in tune with the seasons, the land, and human appetites. So w
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