Charcuterie: Sausages, Pates and Accompaniments

368 Pages·2009·21.53 MB·English

by  Fritz H Sonnenschmidt

C h a r c u t e r i e
Sausages, Pâtés, Accompaniments
Fritz Sonnenschmidt
C.M.C

C h a r c u t e r i e
Sausages, Pâtés, Accompaniments
Fritz Sonnenschmidt
C.M.C
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Charcuterie: Sausages, Pâtés and © 2010 Delmar, Cengage Learning
Accompaniments
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Fritz Sonnenschmidt
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Printed in the United States of America
1 2 3 4 5 XXX 12 11 10 09
I dedicate this book to Albert Metz, CMC
A Mentor to Many
Master Sausage Maker and Master Chef
1912–1988
A master is a person who thinks.
An assistant is a person who makes it work.
But everybody is an apprentice.
Albert Metz
C o n t e n t s
Foreword vii Chapter 8 Sliceable Raw Sausages 95
Preface viii
Acknowledgements ix Chapter 9 Poached Sausages 131
About the Author x
Chapter 10 Bratwurst 157
Chapter 1 Equipment Selection, Sanitary Care,
and Usage 3
Chapter 11 Pâtés and Terrines 207
Chapter 2 Meat, The Raw Base of Sausage
Making 11 Chapter 12 Aspics, Headcheese, and Savory
Jellies 237
Chapter 3 Seasonings, Binders, and Curing
Salts 19 Chapter 13 Curing and Brining 257
Chapter 4 Sausage Casings 29 Chapter 14 Introduction to Salsas 283
Chapter 5 Smoking Sausages and Meats 41 Chapter 15 Specialty Recipes 313
Chapter 6 Cooked Sausages 51 Appendix A 341
Appendix B 344
Appendix C 345
Chapter 7 Spreadable Raw Sausages 83
Glossary 346
Index 351
vi
Fo r e w o r d
The art of making sausages is as old as the art of us on a journey into one of the most delicious and
cooking itself. Throughout Europe this art has tasty sides of the culinary experience.
enjoyed a rich history and tradition and to this day Born and raised in his beloved Bavaria, a hot-
the practitioners of this art are among the most bed of sausage making, Fritz learned this art very
respected professionals in the world of food. early in his training. This experience has left an
From the rustic Alpine regions of Austria, incredible impression on him and he developed a
northern Italy, Switzerland, and Bavaria to the great passion for preserving his art. Throughout his
northern regions of Central Europe, the “butcher” esteemed career he continued to refi ne and hone
not only provided the primary cuts of meat but also his skills and became an internationally respected
developed a very refi ned regional tradition of pro- chef, educator, and consummate professional. We
viding an almost unlimited array of recipes utiliz- are fortunate to be able to enjoy this book as a testa-
ing ground meats. This book, Charcuterie: Sausages, ment to his skills, passions, and most importantly,
Pâtés, and Accompaniments, captures this art for gen- his ability to produce and enjoy the recipes.
erations to come. I believe this book is a must for any serious culi-
With true culinary passion and dedication, narian, but it will also serve as a great resource for
“Fritz” Sonnenschmidt not only introduces us to a all those who simply enjoy cooking. In addition,
host of tasty recipes but also educates the reader on educators will fi nd this book to be a most valuable
the techniques of making sausages without diffi - tool to assist them in their effort.
culty. He explores the history and traditions of the
art from bratwurst to weisswurst (the traditional Thank you, Fritz, for your continued passion.
Bavarian sausage), mettwurst to salami. Even the
Karl J. Guggenmos
elegant pâtés and terrines are explored. Fritz takes
vii
P r e f a c e
For some time now I have felt the need for a com- Each chapter gives you a thorough explanation
prehensive and detailed book on preparing sau- of how and why. I have broken down the art of
sages, pâtés, aspics, and salsas the easy way, as my charcuterie, in other words sausage making, into
masters taught me. Most chefs, cooks, and hobby categories of cooked sausages, raw spreadable sau-
culinarians are afraid to tackle these delicious mor- sages, and raw sliceable sausages, (mettwurst,
sels, because they have not been taught and are salami, cervelat, poached sausages, bratwurst,
therefore unsure and have forgotten that the same pâtés and terrines, headcheeses and savory aspics,
culinary principles as used in cooking or baking are curing and brining of whole meat muscle, and
applied in sausage making. My formulas follow fi nally salsas to accompany these delicious foods.
this principal, are easy to calculate into small or I am sure you will learn, enjoy, and have fun fol-
large batches, and the preparation methods are lowing the formulas and recipes and taste your cre-
simple and easy to follow. ations at breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, and at
The art of sausage was established when man family gatherings. The aromas will be tempting
started to hunt and domesticate animals, especially scents from far away and the beautiful textures and
the pig. When pigs were slaughtered, the tribal colors will excite and tempt the appetite.
elders invited all friends and neighbors and together Have fun, but always remember that cooking,
they cooked, smoked, and prepared all parts of the baking, and sausage making are an art, a science, a
animal. Then they celebrated for days, enjoying the service, and a way of sharing.
fruits of their labor. My recipes and methods are
built on these early preparations, and I have, with
Have a fl avorful experience.
the help of my 50 years’ experience, edited them
from the use of hand tools into today’s machine Fritz
age. Either at home, in the classroom, or in the pro-
fessional kitchen, these recipes are easy to execute
and the end result is spelled success.
viii
A c k n o w l e d g e m e n t s
Thank you
To my wife Debbie for her patience, the sharing To Judy Serra Lieberman for her assistance in
of her taste buds, and cleaning the kitchen after setting up the photos and shopping for all the
sausage production. little last things needed.
To Maryann Monachelli, still the only person To Patricia Osborn for her advice and getting
who can read my handwriting for typing this the book started.
book. To Jeremy Grubard, Jim’s assistant, for his
To Chef Noble Masi for his help and d edication and his help to keep Jim’s lighting
encouragement. steady and making sure all picture colors
were vibrant.
To Brent Frei for his help in fi nding the right
publisher. To Nicole Calisi for her dedication and input to
make this book a success.
To Fenni for letting me try out all the recipes
and formulas at their conferences. To Rick Perez for his support and dedication to
me and our food industry.
To Cutco Cutlery for the quality and sharpness
of their knives. To Cengage Learning for bringing the great art
of sausage making to the forefront and publish-
To Jennie O Turkey Store for their encourage-
ing a fantastic educational book.
ment and having the best turkey.
To Teresa Christie for coordinating the produc-
To my mother-in-law Jane Prislopsky for
tion of the book.
demanding the best kielbasa.
To the copyeditor Martha Williams for correct-
To my Masters Joseph Stumpf and Pierre Ruette
ing the words and sentences and making a
who gave me discipline and knowledge.
humble immigrant look good.
To Adam Mikenberg for opening my mind to
And to my colleagues Fred Von Husen and
new ideas and concepts.
Jacques De Chantaloupe for their dedication and
To all my former students for sharing their
teaching our trade to future chef charcutieres.
ideas, dreams, and concepts with me and mak-
The American Culinary Federation (ACF) for
ing me what I am today.
promoting and giving purpose to all American
To Jim Smith and his crew who made the pic-
chefs.
tures look alive and tasty.
ix