C H A M P A G N E , U N C O R K E D C H A M P A G N E , U N C O R K E D THE HOUSE of KRUG and the TIMELESS ALLURE of the WORLDíS MOST CELEBRATED DRINK A L A N T A R D I New York Copyright © 2016 by Alan Tardi Published in the United States by PublicAffairs™, a Member of the Perseus Books Group. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information, address PublicAffairs, 250 West 57th Street, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10107. PublicAffairs books are available at special discounts for bulk purchases in the U.S. by corporations, institutions, and other organizations. For more information, please contact the Special Markets Department at the Perseus Books Group, 2300 Chestnut Street, Suite 200, Philadelphia, PA 19103, call (800) 810-4145, ext. 5000, or e-mail [email protected]. Set in 11.5-point Goudy Oldstyle STD Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Tardi, Alan, 1956– author. Title: Champagne, uncorked : the house of Krug and the timeless allure of the world’s most celebrated drink / Alan Tardi. Description: First edition. | New York : PublicAffairs, [2016] | Includes bibliographical references. (cid:42)(cid:69)(cid:70)(cid:79)(cid:85)(cid:74)(cid:205)(cid:70)(cid:83)(cid:84)(cid:27)(cid:3)(cid:45)(cid:36)(cid:36)(cid:47)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:18)(cid:23)(cid:17)(cid:17)(cid:24)(cid:21)(cid:17)(cid:17)(cid:93) ISBN 9781610396899 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Champagne (Wine) (cid:36)(cid:77)(cid:66)(cid:84)(cid:84)(cid:74)(cid:205)(cid:68)(cid:66)(cid:85)(cid:74)(cid:80)(cid:79)(cid:27)(cid:3)(cid:45)(cid:36)(cid:36)(cid:3)(cid:53)(cid:49)(cid:22)(cid:22)(cid:22)(cid:3)(cid:15)(cid:53)(cid:20)(cid:24)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:18)(cid:23)(cid:3)(cid:93)(cid:3)(cid:37)(cid:37)(cid:36)(cid:3)(cid:23)(cid:21)(cid:18)(cid:15)(cid:19)(cid:16)(cid:19)(cid:19)(cid:21)(cid:134)(cid:69)(cid:68)(cid:19)(cid:20) LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2016007400 First Edition 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 To all the people of Champagne, past, present, and future, who through their limitless passion, consummate skill, and unshakeable commitment make Champagne the superlative libation that it is. And to Fernanda and Lucia, who put the sparkle into my life. AUTHORíS NOTE This (cid:74)(cid:84)(cid:3)(cid:66)(cid:3)(cid:88)(cid:80)(cid:83)(cid:76)(cid:3)(cid:80)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:79)(cid:80)(cid:79)(cid:205)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:74)(cid:80)(cid:79)(cid:13)(cid:3)(cid:66)(cid:77)(cid:85)(cid:73)(cid:80)(cid:86)(cid:72)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:42)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:66)(cid:87)(cid:70)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:66)(cid:76)(cid:70)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:73)(cid:70)(cid:3)(cid:77)(cid:74)(cid:67)(cid:70)(cid:83)(cid:85)(cid:90)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:80)(cid:3) interpret events and motives, and some of the names of people I en- countered on my visits to Champagne have been changed. Informa- (cid:85)(cid:74)(cid:80)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:69)(cid:70)(cid:70)(cid:78)(cid:70)(cid:69)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:80)(cid:79)(cid:205)(cid:69)(cid:70)(cid:79)(cid:85)(cid:74)(cid:66)(cid:77)(cid:3)(cid:80)(cid:83)(cid:3)(cid:81)(cid:83)(cid:80)(cid:81)(cid:83)(cid:74)(cid:70)(cid:85)(cid:66)(cid:83)(cid:90)(cid:3)(cid:67)(cid:90)(cid:3)(cid:44)(cid:83)(cid:86)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:66)(cid:84)(cid:3)(cid:67)(cid:70)(cid:70)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:80)(cid:78)(cid:74)(cid:85)(cid:85)(cid:70)(cid:69)(cid:15) CONTENTS Author’s Note vii Prologue xi Rue Coquebert 1 PART I: IN THE BEGINNING: THE BIRTH OF CHAMPAGNE 1 What Lies Beneath—La Champagne Viticole 7 2 Into the Vineyards—Vintage 2013 13 3 Growers, Suppliers, Presses 23 4 Vendange 49 PART II: COMING OF AGE: LA BELLE …POQUE 5 Fermentation 77 6 Tasting, Tasting, Tasting 101 7 Assemblage 143 ix
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