Carr and Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture, Fourth Edition

344 Pages·2008·6.96 MB·english

by  David J. Tyler

t
Carr and Latham’s
Technology of Clothing
Manufacture

t
Carr and Latham’s
Technology of
Clothing Manufacture
Fourth Edition
Revised by
David J. Tyler
© 2000, 2008 David J. Tyler
© 1988, 1994 Harold Carr and Barbara Latham
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First edition published by BPS Professional Books
Second edition published 1994 by Blackwell Science
Third edition published 2000 by Blackwell Publishing
Fourth edition published 2008 by Blackwell Publishing
ISBN: 978-1-4051-6198-5
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Carr, Harold.
Carr and Latham’s technology of clothing manufacture / Revised by
David J. Tyler. – 4th ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-4051-6198-5 (pbk. : alk. paper)
ISBN-10: 1-4051-6198-1 (pbk. : alk. paper)
1. Clothing trade. 2. Sewing. 3. Dressmaking. I. Latham, Barbara.
II. Tyler, David J. III. Title.
TT497.C33 2008
338.4’7687–dc22
2007036941
A catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library
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Contents
About the author vii
Preface to the fourth edition ix
Acknowledgements xi
1 Background to the clothing industry 1
2 Cutting 6
3 Sewing 52
4 Sewing machinery 138
5 Garment accessories and enhancements 193
6 Alternative methods of joining materials 221
7 Pressing and related garment fi nishing techniques 254
8 Technology and management of colour 275
9 Clothing technology and product development 288
10 Troubleshooting in the sewing room 299
Bibliography 320
Index 327
Colour plate section appears between pages 276 and 277

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About the Author
David J. Tyler graduated in physics from Southampton University and
started working for an industrial research association serving the tex-
tiles and clothing industry. Afterwards he moved into industry as a
technologist and later became a manager. He is currently Reader in
Apparel Systems and Technologies in the Department of Clothing
Design and Technology at Manchester Metropolitan University.

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Preface to the Fourth Edition
It is now 20 years since the fi rst edition of this book was published.
Since that time, much has changed. Early in 2007, I asked one of my
ex-students to speak on the subject of garment technology to a
current student group. During this talk, she refl ected on the changes
since 1984, when she started work in the UK industry. These thoughts
are worth sharing.
Twenty fi ve years ago, the garment technologist’s job was
concerned with garment fi t and conformance to specifi cation. This
was the case whether the technologist was working in the supply
chain or for a retailer. Then we witnessed the great expansion of
globalisation!
Now, the technologist’s role has expanded to include commercial
and practical inputs to the new product development process, ensur-
ing products conform to legislation, and addressing manufactur-
ability issues. Quality assurance activities continue, but there is much
more effort given to build quality into products at the development
stage.
The technologist is uniquely equipped to interpret the requirements
of designers and buyers, who typically do not have a technical vocabu-
lary. This extends to checking that the product looks right over the
whole size range and helping to resolve any issues that arise. Tech-
nologists can be found assessing prototype garments alongside the
buyer, appraising make-up, fi t and product presentation. Any deci-
sions arising from this will be communicated to the manufacturer (who
has not been involved in the fi t session) by the technologist.
More and more, garment technologists are expected to deal with
fabric information and be able to interpret test results on shrinkage,
dye-fastness and other performance-related matters. Technologists
will receive submissions for sealed samples and evaluate them. They
will be involved with bulk stocks in the retailer’s distribution centre,
P to assess any problems and to contribute to decision-making about
r
e
fa them. With mail order business, technologists will take the lead in
c
e analysing customer returns so that appropriate action can be taken.

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o Some garment technologists may get involved in appraising the

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h capabilities of potential suppliers, and this is likely to incorporate
e

F aspects of ethical auditing. Some may be involved in implementing
o
ur appropriate information systems, such as product data management
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h
software. The diversity of work makes the technologist’s job very
E
d demanding.
it
io Globalisation does mean that there are two types of garment tech-
n

nologist: those based in retail organisations (or brand owners) and
those based in manufacturing organisations (the supply chain). The
work of retail based technologists is directed to achieving confor-
mance to quality standards and ensuring the suppliers understand
what the products should be like. Those working in the supply chain
gain far more fi rst-hand experience of problem solving, as they are
working with the people, the fabrics and the machinery on a regular
basis.
An important skill for technologists is to be able to communicate
across cultures and across the design/technology divide. The lan-
guage problems are only part of the story. People in different cultures
may have different expectations and different judgments on what is
an acceptable standard. There may be different views on what is aes-
thetically pleasing. Since the brand owner is setting the standard, the
supply chain needs the style of communication that will help it under-
stand the customer requirements and the consumer markets that are
being served.
This book has focused on the technology of clothing manufacture,
leaving issues of fi t and quality systems for others. However, the tech-
nologies have changed with time, and this shift is refl ected in the way
different editions have been updated. In the third edition, the role of
the garment technologist in new product development was intro-
duced. The new chapter in this edition (Chapter 8) concerns the
technology of colour and its management. The chapter that has seen
the most change is that on alternative joining technologies (Chapter
6), because of the major expansion of interest in welded seams and
the use of adhesives. Chapter 10 has been introduced on the solution
of sewing problems, drawing on material previously in Chapter 3 and
introducing checklists in tabular form.
The initial work on this book by Harold Carr and Barbara Latham
was extensive and their contribution has always been the key to
making this book useful and successful. My role in revising the book
has been one of editing a proven resource and, I hope, maintaining
its value within education and industry.
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