Cardigans & Closures

56 Pages·2012·13.64 MB·english

by  Melissa Leapman

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Ca rdi ga ns
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Closures
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Designs by Melissa Leapman
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From buttonholes to
zippers, learn expert tips,
tricks and insider secrets
for all your handknits
A
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121071
Ca rdi ga ns
&
Closures
™
Designs by
Melissa Leapman
I n t r o d u c t i o n

Would you like to perfect the art of the
knitted jacket or cardigan? Join designer
Melissa Leapman as she walks you through
several closure techniques while you create
seven beautiful jackets to wear and love.
Master afterthought closures such as zippers
and button loops, practice simple eyelet
buttonholes and learn professional tips
and tricks for double-thick button bands
and amazing one-row buttonholes. You’ll
even discover the ins and outs of double-
breasted closures and how to make your
own handmade buttons to match your
knitted fabric!
With the information here, you’ll be knitting
stunning garments with ideal closures each
and every time.
Happy knitting!
Melissa
Melissa Leapman
Funky Boyfriend
Cardigan,
page 37
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T a b l e o f C o n t e n t s

4 Part One: Keep it Simple
With Afterthought Closures
6 LESSON ONE: Overcast Button Loops
Casual Jacket Casual Jacket,
page 6
11 LESSON TWO: Inserting a Zipper
Tweedy Hoodie
16 Part Two: Buttonhole Essentials
19 LESSON ONE: Eyelet Buttonholes
Le Charme
24 LESSON TWO: Incorporated Simple Three-Row Buttonholes
Rustic Jacket
28 Part Three: Beyond the Basics
Rustic Jacket,
page 24
32 LESSON ONE: Neat One-Row Horizontal Buttonholes
Rebecca
37 LESSON TWO: Double-Thick Button Bands
Funky Boyfriend Cardigan
42 LESSON THREE: Double-Breasted Closures
Double-Breasted Mosaic Cardi
General Information
47 Abbreviations & Symbols
47 Skill Levels Rebecca,
page 32
48 Standard Yarn Weight System
48 Inches Into Millimeters & Centimeters
49 Knitting Basics
52 Crochet Stitches
53 Choosing Buttons
54 Meet the Designer
55 Resources
56 Photo Index
Double-Breasted
Mosaic Cardi,
page 42
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Part One:
Keep It SImple WIth
Afterthought CloSureS
4 Cardigans & Closures
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Sometimes it is a good idea to decide on closure details after the knitting is
completed. After seaming, allow your garment to speak to you. Does it want a few
oversized button loops? A sporty zipper? Traditional buttonholes? These techniques
are explored in this section.
Button Loops Zippers
Button loops are suitable for projects when only a It’s simple to sew a zipper in
few buttons will be used, as seen in the Casual Jacket by hand. This type of closure is
on page 6. Made close to the edge of the fabric, this used on the Tweedy Hoodie on
type of closure can be custom sized to any button page 11.
and is especially useful for extremely large buttons.
Step 1: With the zipper closed
and the public side of the
Overcast Button Loop
garment pieces facing you, pin
Step 1: Use pins to mark the placement for the begin-
the zipper into place. Then, use
ning and end of each button loop. To make a founda-
contrasting sewing thread to
tion for a button loop, use a blunt-tip yarn needle to
baste the zipper into place with
bring the yarn up from
a running stitch.
the wrong side to the
right side at the lower Step 2: Remove the pins and
marker, and then insert whipstitch the zipper tape to
it down from the right the wrong side of the garment.
side to the wrong side at
the upper marker. Adjust
the size of the loop by
pulling on the yarn loop.
Step 2: To make the foundation sturdier,
bring the needle up
once more at the lower
marker and back down
Step 3: With the public side
again at the upper one.
of the fabric facing you,
Repeat this step a third
backstitch the zipper to
time if a stronger core
the knitted fabric.
is required, such as
when using fine yarn.
Step 3: Use buttonhole stitch (see page 31) to cover If there’s any excess zipper tape
the foundation strands, working from the lower at the top or bottom, fold it
marker to the upper to the wrong side and tack it
marker. Bring the down. Remove basting thread. ●
yarn to the left of the
needle, then insert
the needle under all
the loops and over the Designer's Tip
yarn, then pull the yarn
up to tighten the stitch.
CLOSURE S UP CLOSE
When placing the zipper, be sure the yarn
fibers won’t get caught in the teeth; with
particularly hairy yarns such as mohair or
angora, it is better to have the teeth exposed.
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LessOn One: OvERCAST BUTTOn LOOPS
Here’s a textured car coat that uses overcast button loops as closures.
e
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Pattern Stitch
Skill Level Textured (multiple of 3 sts + 2)
Note: A chart is provided for the pat for those preferring
to work from charts.
Sizes Row 1 (RS): P2, *k1, p2; rep from * end.
Woman’s small (medium, large, X-large, Row 2: K2, *p1, k2; rep from * to end.
2X-large, 3X-large) Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Purl.
Instructions are given for smallest size, with
Rep Rows 1–4 for pat.
larger sizes in parentheses. When only 1 number
is given, it applies to all sizes.
Pattern Notes
All pieces are worked back and forth. Circular
Finished Measurements
needles may be used to accommodate stitches
Chest (buttoned): 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) inches
of larger pieces; do not join.
Length: 32 (321/2, 33, 331/2, 331/2, 34) inches
Instructions include 1 selvage stitch at each
Materials side; these stitches are not reflected in the
• Lion Brand Alpine Wool (chunky final measurements.
weight; 77% wool/15% acrylic/
Work all shaping 1 stitch from the edge. Work
8% rayon; 93 yds/3 oz per ball):
decreases as knit or purl decreases as necessary
12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22) balls oatmeal #223
to maintain the pattern.
• Size 9 (5.5mm) straight and 29-inch
circular needles
Back
• Size 10 (6mm) straight and 29-inch circular
With larger circular needle, cast on 59 (65, 71, 77,
needles or size needed to obtain gauge
83, 89) sts.
• Stitch holders
• 4 (2-inch) buttons #80712 from JHB Work even in Textured pat until piece measures
International 231/2 inches, or desired length to underarm, ending
with a WS row.
Gauge
Shape Armholes
12 sts and 22 rows = 4 inches/10cm in Textured
Bind off 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows,
pat with larger needles.
then bind off 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts at beg of following
To save time, take time to check gauge. 2 rows—49 (53, 57, 61, 65, 69) sts.
Maintaining established pat, dec at each end on next
Special Abbreviation
row, then [every RS row] 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) times—41 (43,
Make 1 (M1): Inc by making a backward loop over
47, 49, 53, 55) sts.
RH needle.
Work even until armholes measure 7 (71/2, 8, 81/2,
81/2, 9) inches, ending with a WS row.
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Shape Neck At neck edge, dec 1 st [every RS row] 3 times—10 (11,
Row 1 (RS): Work 11 (12, 14, 15, 17, 18) sts in pat; 13, 14, 16, 17) sts.
join 2nd ball of yarn and bind off 19 sts, work to
Work even until armhole measures same as back
end of row.
to shoulders, ending with a WS row.
Row 2: Working both sides at once with separate
balls of yarn, work even. Shape Shoulder
At armhole edge, bind off 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts twice,
Maintaining established pat, dec 1 st at each neck
and 4 (3, 5, 4, 6, 5) sts once.
edge once—10 (11, 13, 14, 16, 17) sts each side.
Work even until armholes measure 71/2, (8, 81/2, 9, 9, Right Front
91/2) inches, ending with a WS row. Work same as left front to armholes, ending with a
RS row.
Shape Shoulders
Shape armholes same as for left front, then work
Bind off 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 4 rows, then
even until armhole measures same as for left front
bind off 4 (3, 5, 4, 6, 5) sts at beg of last 2 rows.
to neck shaping, ending with a WS row.
Pocket Lining Shape neck same as for left front, then work even
Make 2 until armhole measures same as for left front to
shoulder shaping, ending with a RS row.
With larger needles, cast on 15 (16, 15, 16, 15, 16) sts.
Shape shoulders same as for left front.
Work even in St st until piece measures 6 inches,
ending with a WS row.
Sleeves
Slip sts onto holder. With larger needles, cast on 32 sts.
Work in Textured pat; working new sts into pat as
Left Front
they accumulate, inc 1 st each side [every 8 rows]
With larger needles, cast on 29 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44) sts.
0 (0, 0, 0, 7, 12) times, [every 10 rows] 0 (0, 0, 6, 4, 0)
Work even in Textured pat until piece measures 9 times, [every 12 rows] 0 (0, 8, 3, 0, 0) times, [every 16
(91/2, 10, 101/2, 101/2, 11) inches, ending with a WS row. rows] 0 (6, 0, 0, 0, 0) times, [every 18 rows] 2 (0, 0, 0, 0,
0) times, then [every 20 rows] 3 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) times as
Place pocket lining (RS): Work 7 (8, 10, 11, 13, 14)
follows: K1, M1, work in pat to last st, M1, k1—42 (44,
sts, place next 15 (16, 15, 16, 15, 16) sts on st holder
48, 50, 54, 56) sts.
for pocket edging; maintaining established Textured
pat, work across 15 (16, 15, 16, 15, 16) sts from pocket Work even until sleeve measures 181/2 inches or
lining holder; work to end of row. desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Work even until piece measures same as back to
Shape Cap
underarm, ending with a WS row.
Bind off 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows—
36 (36, 40, 40, 44, 44) sts.
Shape Armhole
At armhole edge, bind off 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts once and Maintaining established pat, dec 1 st at armhole
2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts once—24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34) sts. edge [every 4 rows] 2 (3, 2, 4, 2, 3) times, then
[every RS row] 8 (7, 10, 8, 12, 11) times—16 sts.
Maintaining established pat, dec 1 st at armhole
edge [every RS row] 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) times—20 (21, 23, Work 0 (0, 1, 0, 0, 0) row(s) even.
24, 26, 27) sts.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows—8 sts.
Work even until armhole measures 51/2 (6, 61/2, 7, 7,
Bind off.
71/2) inches, ending with a RS row.
Finishing
Shape Neck
Weave in ends. Block pieces to measurements.
At neck edge, bind off 3 sts once, and 2 sts twice—
13 (14, 16, 17, 19, 20) sts. Sew shoulder seams.
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