Canada

899 Pages·2017·55.26 MB·English

P
D
F
Canada
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Edition 13th Edition
Release Date April 2017
Pages 896
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4 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
ON THE ROAD
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Canada
Yukon
Territory
p770 Nunavut
Northwest p813
Territories
p793
British Newfoundland
Columbia & Labrador
p632 Alberta p459
p558 Mapn5i1t3oba Québec Prince Edward
p225 Island
Saskapt5c3h6ewan Ontario New p433
p62 Brunswick Nova
p391
Scotia
p330
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Korina Miller
Kate Armstrong, James Bainbridge, Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, John
Lee, Carolyn McCarthy, Phillip Tang, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Benedict Walker
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Canada . . . . . 6 ONTARIO . . . . . . . . . . 62 QUÉBEC . . . . . . . . . . 225
Canada Map . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Toronto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Montréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
Niagara Peninsula . . . . .118 The Laurentians . . . . . .258
Canada’s Top 25 . . . . . . . 10
Niagara Falls . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Québec City . . . . . . . . . .272
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 24
Niagara Peninsula Wine Charlevoix . . . . . . . . . . .291
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Baie St Paul . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Niagara-on-the-Lake . . . . 127 Île Aux Coudres . . . . . . . . 293
Southwestern La Malbaie . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Month by Month . . . . . . . 31 Ontario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Saguenay . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
South Shore . . . . . . . . . 302
Guelph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Scenic Drives & Gaspé Peninsula . . . . . . 308
Train Trips . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Kitchener-Waterloo . . . . . 135
Parc National de la
Travel with Children . . . . 52 Stratford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Gaspésie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Lake Huron Shoreline . . . 142 Forillon National Park . . . 313
Regions at a Glance . . . . 57
London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Gaspé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Lake Erie Shoreline . . . . . 150 Matapédia Valley . . . . . . . 318
Muskoka Lakes . . . . . . . 154 North Shore . . . . . . . . . .319
Georgian Bay . . . . . . . . . 158 Mingan Archipelago
DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © PMPCBBNeaolroiuudnrlrlercleitayn ehtM nga SePdwnoore ugno&unun on iOit nddsans hi . &unte .a lna . . re . . . io . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111116556698271 NÎFAJNlaaebaumrsitnt i Niaoedbvsnoeii- arkT Bllté . a ahPm . y Ma . . . ir . .s .ak . .c .d . . . a .e . . .m .l . . . .ei . . .n .i . . .ng . . . .eu . . . . . e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333333222222498277
The Outaouais . . . . . . . . 329
Killarney
Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 167 Gatineau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
Sudbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
TOTEM POLE, HAIDA GWAII Lake Superior NOVA SCOTIA . . . . . 330
P761 Shoreline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Halifax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Thunder Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Dartmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
North Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Peggy’s Cove . . . . . . . . . . . 348
RON W Eastern Ontario . . . . . . 187 South Shore . . . . . . . . . 349
ATTS / GETTY IMAGES © APHPKeralagotwloeivbanrinubrqtcrouhtiraoiaonlns u P . gHa .hi .rg k .&h . . l . .at . .hn . .ed . . s . . . . . . . . . . . 111989271 FAYAarcnerannmdacoiphau onStlh hiSs . o . hVr .oea . . rl . .el . .es . . .y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333365550877
Land O’ Lakes . . . . . . . . . . 193 Annapolis Royal . . . . . . . . 363
Prince Edward County . . . 194 Wolfville & Grand Pré . . . 364
Kingston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Central Nova Scotia . . . 368
Thousand Islands . . . . . . . 202 Maitland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368
FORILLON NATIONAL PARK Ottawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369
P313
Contents
Sunrise Trail . . . . . . . . .373 Northeastern New Deer Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492
Pictou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Brunswick . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Gros Morne
New Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Caraquet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 492
Antigonish . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Bathurst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 St Barbe to L’Anse aux
Campbellton . . . . . . . . . . . 432 Meadows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
Cape Breton Island . . .377
Western
Ceilidh Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Newfoundland . . . . . . . . 499
Cabot Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 PRINCE EDWARD Corner Brook . . . . . . . . . . 499
The Far North . . . . . . . . . . 383 ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . 433 Blomidon Mountains . . . . 502
North Sydney . . . . . . . . . . 385 Charlottetown . . . . . . . . 436 Cape Ray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Eastern Prince Edward Killick Coast . . . . . . . . . 505
Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .444
Eastern Shore . . . . . . . . 389 Labrador . . . . . . . . . . . . 506
Wood Islands . . . . . . . . . . . 444
Labrador Straits . . . . . . . . 506
Souris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
NEW BRUNSWICK . 391 Northern Coast . . . . . . . . . 510
Central Prince Edward
Fredericton . . . . . . . . . .393 Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448 Labrador West . . . . . . . . . 512
Upper St John Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448
River Valley . . . . . . . . . . 399 Prince Edward Island MANITOBA . . . . . . . 513
Grand Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . .401 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 448
Winnipeg . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
Edmundston & Around . . 401 New Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . 452
Lower Fort Garry . . . . . . . 526
Western Fundy Shore . . 402 New London . . . . . . . . . . . 453
Oak Hammock Marsh . . . 526
St Stephen . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Western Prince Edward
Lake Winnipeg . . . . . . . . 527
St Andrews By-The-Sea . .404 Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
Gimli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527
Fundy Isles . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Summerside . . . . . . . . . . . 456
Hecla/Grindstone
Campobello Island . . . . . . 409 Tyne Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 528
Grand Manan Island . . . . 410 Southeastern
Saint John . . . . . . . . . . .412 NEWFOUNDLAND & Manitoba . . . . . . . . . . . .528
Eastern Fundy Shore . . 417 LABRADOR . . . . . . . 459 Whiteshell
Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 528
St Martins . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 St John’s . . . . . . . . . . . . 462
Fundy National Park . . . . 418 Avalon Peninsula . . . . .473 Western Manitoba . . . .528
Brandon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529
Alma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Baccalieu Trail . . . . . . . . . . 477
Riding Mountain
Southeastern New Cape Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . 479
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 529
Brunswick . . . . . . . . . . . 420
Eastern
Moncton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Newfoundland . . . . . . . . 480 Northern Manitoba . . . 530
The Pas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
Sackville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Bonavista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482
Churchill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
Northumberland Burin Peninsula . . . . . . . . 483
Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
St-Pierre & Miquelon . . 484
Cape Jourimain . . . . . . . . 424 SASKATCHEWAN . . 536
Central
Shediac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Newfoundland . . . . . . . . 487 Regina . . . . . . . . . . . . . .539
Bouctouche . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Gander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Southern
Miramichi River Fogo Island & Saskatchewan . . . . . . . . 544
Valley Area . . . . . . . . . . .427 Change Islands . . . . . . . . . 490 Moose Jaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544
Miramichi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Grand Falls-Windsor . . . . . 491 Ogema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545
Miramichi River Valley . . . 428 Northern Peninsula . . . 492 Swift Current . . . . . . . . . . 546
ON THE ROAD
Val Marie & Grasslands
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 547
QEYVSNSToeahaauorrsess’rAket kkttBgpehoaaiaprennttnte . .ocr t ln . .holSlee . . enaf . . owV s . . .raka . .d .l . .anl .se . . . .t .yc . . . . . . . . . h . . . . . . .e . . . . . .w . . . . . . .a . . . . . . . . . .n . . . . . . 555555554554450069968 PHUNG CHUNG CHYANG / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Prince Albert
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 556
AURORA VILLAGE P800,
YELLOWKNIFE
ALBERTA . . . . . . . . . 558
Bowen Island . . . . . . . . . 667 Okanagan Valley . . . . . . 724
Edmonton . . . . . . . . . . .562
Sea To Sky Highway . . . 668 Osoyoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 728
West of Edmonton . . . . . . 573
Squamish & Around . . . . . 668 Vaseaux Lake . . . . . . . . . . 730
Calgary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574
Whistler . . . . . . . . . . . . .670 Kelowna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 734
Banff & Jasper
National Parks . . . . . . . 586 Sunshine Coast . . . . . . . 677 Vernon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 739
Kananaskis Country . . . . 586 Roberts Creek . . . . . . . . . . 678 The Kootenays &
Canmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589 Sechelt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 679 The Rockies . . . . . . . . . . 741
Revelstoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741
Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . 591 Vancouver Island . . . . .681
Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594 Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 681 Golden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 745
Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 Southern Vancouver Yoho National Park . . . . . 747
Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 693 Kootenay National Park .749
Southern Alberta . . . . .614
Nanaimo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 698 Radium Hot Springs . . . . 750
Dinosaur Provincial
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 624 Pacific Rim National Fernie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750
Head-Smashed-In Park Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 703 Rossland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 753
Buffalo Jump . . . . . . . . . . 624 Tofino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 704 Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 753
Writing-on-Stone Ucluelet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707 Cariboo, Chilcotin &
Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 627 Denman & the Coast . . . . . . . . . . . .756
Waterton Lakes Hornby Islands . . . . . . . . . 709 Wells Gray
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 627 Campbell River . . . . . . . . . 711 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 757
Northern Alberta . . . . . 630 Southern Gulf Bella Coola Valley . . . . . . . 758
Mackenzie Highway . . . . . 631 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716 Northern
Lake District . . . . . . . . . . . 631 Salt Spring Island . . . . . . . 716 British Columbia . . . . .759
Galiano Island . . . . . . . . . . 720 Haida Gwaii . . . . . . . . . . . . 761
Saturna Island . . . . . . . . . 720 Prince George . . . . . . . . . . 766
BRITISH
COLUMBIA . . . . . . . . 632 Fraser & Thompson Alaska Highway . . . . . . . . 769
Valleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 721
Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . .633
EC Manning
YUKON TERRITORY 770
Lower Mainland . . . . . . 664 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 721
Burnaby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664 Fraser River Canyon . . . . 722 Whitehorse . . . . . . . . . .773
New Westminster . . . . . . . 665 Kamloops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 723 Alaska Highway . . . . . .778
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Haines Highway . . . . . .782 NUNAVUT . . . . . . . . 813 Canada Today . . . . . . . .826
Klondike Highway . . . . . 783 Iqaluit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 815 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 828
Carcross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 783 Baffin Region . . . . . . . .819
Aboriginal Cultures . . .839
Stewart Crossing . . . . . . . 784 Auyuittuq National
Dawson City . . . . . . . . .785 Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 820 Outdoor Activities . . . .843
Dempster Highway . . . . 791 Cape Dorset . . . . . . . . . . . 821 Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 847
Arctic Parks . . . . . . . . . . 792 Resolute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 822
Cuisines of Canada . . . 851
Quttinirpaaq National
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 822 Wine Regions . . . . . . . .853
NORTHWEST
TERRITORIES . . . . . 793 Kivalliq Region . . . . . . .823
Rankin Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . 823
Yellowknife . . . . . . . . . .796
Ukkusiksalik National
Ingraham Trail . . . . . . . . . . 803
Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 824
North Slave . . . . . . . . . . 803 Naujaat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .824
Highway 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 803
Kitikmeot Region . . . . . 824
South Slave . . . . . . . . . . 804 Cambridge Bay . . . . . . . . . 824 SURVIVAL
Mackenzie Highway . . . . . 804
GUIDE
Fort Smith . . . . . . . . . . . . . 805
Wood Buffalo
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 806 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .856
Deh Cho . . . . . . . . . . . . .807
Transportation . . . . . . . 867
Nahanni National
Park Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 808 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 876
Liard Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 883
Sahtu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .810
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 894
Norman Wells . . . . . . . . . . 810
Western Arctic . . . . . . .810
Inuvik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 810
Tuktoyaktuk . . . . . . . . . . . . 812
Banks Island . . . . . . . . . . . 812
SPECIAL FEATURES
Road Trips & Aboriginal Cultures . . .839
Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . .44
Outdoor Activites . . . . . 843
Travel with
Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 847
Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Cuisines of Canada . . . 851
Canada’s National
Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 615 Wine Regions . . . . . . . .853
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Welcome to
Canada
Canada is more than its hulking-
mountain, craggy-coast good looks: it
also cooks extraordinary meals, rocks
cool culture and unfurls wild, moose-
spotting road trips.
The Great Outdoors Foodie Fare
The globe’s second-biggest country has an Canada is a local food smorgasbord. If you
endless variety of landscapes. Sky-high grazed from west to east across the country,
mountains, glinting glaciers, spectral rain- you’d fill your plate like this: wild salmon and
forests and remote beaches are all here, velvety scallops in British Columbia, poutine
spread across six times zones. It’s the back- (golden fries topped with gravy and cheese
drop for plenty of ah-inspiring moments – curds) in Québec, and lobster with a dab of
and for a big cast of local characters. That’s melted butter in the Maritime provinces.
big as in polar bears, grizzly bears, whales Tastemakers may not tout Canadian food
and, everyone’s favorite, moose. the way they do, say, Italian or French fare,
The terrain also makes for a fantastic so let’s just call the distinctive seafood, pi-
playground. Whether it’s snowboarding quant cheeses, and fresh, seasonal fruits and
Whistler’s mountains, surfing Nova Scotia’s veggies our little secret. Ditto for the award-
swells or kayaking the white-frothed South winning bold reds and crisp whites produced
Nahanni River in the Northwest Territories, from the country’s vine-striped valleys.
adventures abound. There are gentler op-
tions, too, like strolling Vancouver’s Stanley Artistic Flair
Park or swimming off Prince Edward
The arts are an integral part of Canada’s
Island’s pink-sand beaches.
cultural landscape. You’ll find it from the
International Fringe Theater Festival (the
Captivating Cultures
world’s second-largest) in Edmonton to mega
Sip a café au lait and tear into a flaky crois- museums like Ottawa’s National Gallery.
sant at a sidewalk bistro in Montréal; head Montreal’s Jazz Festival and Toronto’s star-
to an Asian night market and slurp noodles studded Film Festival draw global crowds.
in Vancouver; join a wild-fiddling Celtic And did you know Ontario’s Stratford
party on Cape Breton Island; kayak between Festival is the continent’s largest classical
rainforest-cloaked Aboriginal villages on repertory theater? Even places you might
Haida Gwaii: Canada is incredibly diverse not automatically think of – say, St John’s or
across its breadth and within its cities. Woody Point – put on renowned shindigs (an
You’ll hear it in the music, see it in the arts avant-garde ‘sound symposium’ and a big-
and taste it in the cuisine. name writers festival, respectively).
7
CHASE DEKKER / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Canada
By Korina Miller, Writer
I’ve traveled to three dozen countries and never found anywhere more beautiful than
Canada. And when I’m gone, what do I miss? Flights that take you low over the sky-clawing
Rockies. Catching sight of an orca from a ferry deck. Driving across the prairies where wheat
blows like an endless sea. Listening to the Tragically Hip on the radio and drinking a good,
strong cup of tea. Candy smoked salmon, sharp cheddar cheese and Okanagan wine. A vast-
ness that compels you to explore. I’m Canadian and I love Canada. And I’m not even going to
apologize for it.
For more about our writers, see p896
Above: Bull moose, Banff National Park (p586)
Canada
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W UNITED STATES Lake
130° VSaunrcfo, wuviledre rInsleasns,d OR MT OF AMERICA Wofo tohdes
40°N farms and tea (p681) ID ND
Vancouver The Rockies
Freewheeling, nature-filled Mountains of
CA metropolis (p633) glistening glaciers (p741)
NV UT WY
NE