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Cambodia & Laos PDF

290 Pages·2016·34.248 MB·English
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL CAMBODIA & LAOS EYEWITNESS TRAVEL CAMBODIA & LAOS Managing Editor Aruna Ghose Senior Editorial Manager Savitha Kumar Senior Design Manager Priyanka Thakur Project Editor Smita Khanna Bajaj Project Designer Amisha Gupta Editors Karen Faye D’Souza, Shreya Sarkar Designer Neha Sethi Senior Cartographic Manager Uma Bhattacharya Cartographer Schchida Nand Pradhan DTP Designer Rakesh Pal Visitors kayaking down the Nam Song, Senior Picture Research Coordinator Taiyaba Khatoon Vang Vieng Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani Contents Main Contributors David Chandler, Peter Holmshaw, Iain Stewart, Richard Waters Photographers Demetrio Carrasco, Linda Whitwam How to Use this Guide Illustrators Chingtham Chinglemba, Sanjeev Kumar, Surat Kumar Mantoo, 6 Arun Pottirayil, Gautam Trivedi Introducing Printed and bound in Malaysia Cambodia and First American Edition 2013 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Laos Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, Discovering Cambodia New York, New York 10014 and Laos 10–15 Reprinted with revisions 2013, 2016 Putting Cambodia and Copyright 2011, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company Laos on the Map 16 All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in, or introduced into a retrieval A Portrait of Cambodia system, or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of and Laos 18 both the copyright owner and the above publisher of the book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN: 1542-1554 ISBN: 978-1-46544-006-8 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Monks enjoying a quiet moment amid the Front cover main image: The monumental Angkor Wat temple complex stone sculptures, the Bayon Colorfully adorned Buddhas in Xieng Khuan, southeast of Vientiane Cambodia at a Glance 44 Phnom Penh 46 Angkor 64 Northern Cambodia 88 Southern Cambodia 104 Laos Area by Area Thongs adorning the inside of Wat Luang Ban Xieng Jai A Portrait of Laos 124 Travelers’ Laos Through the Year Needs 126 Cambodia Area by Area The History of Laos 130 Where to Stay 206 Where to Eat and Drink A Portrait of Cambodia 32 216 Cambodia Through Shopping 234 the Year 34 Entertainment 238 The History of Cambodia 38 Detail of carving, Wat Xieng Men Outdoor Activities and Special Interests 240 Laos at a Glance 136 Survival Guide Vientiane 138 Practical Information 248 Luang Prabang 150 Travel Information 260 Northern Laos General Index 272 170 Acknowledgments 282 Central and Southern Ornate carvings at the temple complex Laos 188 Phrase Book 284 of Banteay Srei, Angkor Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang 6 (cid:3) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most sections. They cover all the important from your visit to Cambodia and Laos. sights with maps, photographs, and It provides detailed practical information illustrations. Information on hotels, and expert recommendations. Introducing restaurants, shops and markets, and Cambodia and Laos maps the two countries entertainment is found in Travelers’ Needs. and sets them in their histori cal and cultural The Survival Guide has advice on every- context. Cambodia Area by Area and Laos thing from travel and medical services, Area by Area are the main sightseeing to telephones and internet facilities. Putting Cambodia and 16(cid:3)INTRODUCING CAMBODIA AND LAOS PUTTING CAMBODIA AND LAOS ON THE MAP(cid:3)17 PoCtnTaapwsT(tiMCr4hhuhhnloroaasi4eMiYeiptea mmsurnopg3akh a t ipIm oaulro-hnn bbbakeaoYttn lng dnoaooamianortologtdtydotrdd f Aonni)dsa.h e co ii imMC tIcfraa,ea tho n nebaoaN 6ar aeeiai sa mosannntw9ornmn h sigt dCoe,ftMlbtt9hdtea iaseh flahMm0of i m eclnrLwo abeil0sdno eeCAayeb opo e siLi urTaos aaondueoaa sahq pnscR.eatalun tu oao o tcoB nsamtpi1ttrsnenntp oominhd 95erDsagi snutde,l as0 st uhMae mel tt ,iadwVinslh7 csntcaybti i shee0ee(lteoi ,a l1ro hpit n0iMwtouGntow8nonre housnmouniy1 anortrqoetutl,.ohtmdfda0r eri fhLg kmkiu or 3eLjewa t.h utg fo5noaisiCoo seTlh C oft aessast th s t ar sh,sfhqmttuh aio m aeh vael (neikyrl2arbleer ta bndmiSete3hro nnrco oes an5Rcoabdg)ed,Pdruso, a,nu C noi 0nh.tsaitat trda,sHhg0rocoeithn n xw’pdhecust0h ti ed cts oCaoreamm2 h hrht s lbvbrhoL roh7apiaaqesiutlellfi7rrabehn , yl nr igwraki-sucCio od samLtem haPKrin an h atiareorlShihl,ia.)oel yxB eie,NHcr si aa ihstau nst.KuaNS gah akaHpPawokhinnhkaiTtonsHnaPunCaPHaukhMVT yHulBioCuGe keSXhaknhhniAPInnagaagagugNiakn tLAlIhiaiaflbLaKT LNuhauPoraaenNBiaronmAVoaLenPfSuubudah gaTnaonaaihUnnnngVNUag ygg Ti VdeKaHhNRniobahoeKPaiPDBatnunNoKnahithkga laniSocgoTiilMhotinKahiLP KnnhhtsKonouwueraaohga SahangaaKsmupnibn iIensVahKosmhiagablngioaaneonlMNaannniPnggnnggdugohWoga uoTianMhknTPgtoKvtsuohanaihakmlygvnuleaagnnNMPLTKSaSeKôaauankSuaPmPpmSaSPladséaaAKiuiRhanpiveeCknernoangamhmCgstpothn aVc K mOuRntTRhVUhkTeAhaX eaiPdaaaekUaaateoIpmkihnhkpCbKbnVnSMeaghehuhHBgihooenotlE esuiniMKCnXanainkgnhomaeB thlTmiuThn PPKTApPoOaehhronnLSoennaanoggmnNySNgkoXhkomTgt DMypoamhuToNLriooaM u nHhmKBeB PhnnPAoHgauaroahImuagaKCgneka nroxnoaTgykaehoahAa onnlirsViaamVMeeiggtemniSpnrneekMMMovvvnNvgigRRgohagCnLyahMPag mahKoRumiriPnaSeapanentkagpMisgseoBoaSunaknaaLnglSunDa IaLVmgvNounSoM SapTHMnanaeLDhohnmugAinogAiaaNaM nuxSt I tnNCEHTatRhAogtPaeiKhISDon A hnpCeLAioioLganeBiertmnoAuyamgaNsm GHBtLGHHa ATDAUuDaTVoésEuAnMSiBTNHaanYhluInAuofgKNPkonDEo lMPTt eanMPihhAoilhktTanRiaauHnTeutnfHomtomANLiC IA CALPHOAAenVANSnIMi SQDhNeMIBNunOMAGatAiAnDaQLPgPTVnIuOA AhheINyERaa YTgENN0C0npNTa ShhmkiA uoiRCIalBhiMyoIKK nlAah ReNm TSe sUHnaireyNDgmoatEonMMMMRIe-nnOaIraTstaoaigineNlAuajjtroooroonIErrWra P a t1wrrrdSotHoo0AiaSaI0hoaaIyNdALdnIeaPlP bbaIooNrrEd1Se00r ACtLTlicdatnoohorah ia lec vmeoorueoaiaet cd bnhstsoalseoaiee.tto r rrdoTtpdio inieSirheoaa oinn m sernnoau.atsn taf taEttt ehodpeCothae i L efca soaceotahishmhnhgotou Mse aAhwcbrm aip sotsrmori a aaetuswnden pepainhen ircica sten isorgtr .reha uieysohlno an ihnbgttdwiroasohi en ssLrtfs oias.tbnehoregmeese i n ng For keys to symbols see back flap LAOS AREA BY AREA (cid:3) 189 CENTRAL AND Cambodia and Laos 1 Introduction SOUTHERN LAOS AEarceha o bf tyh eA eriegaht sections starts with Taanrhedea hcishis oatoru artcyli,tn elaern dod fh seecaraecp,h e , nLCbtshtyareiieiltnllnlu iiKtgsarrhoan abllmlc a ebaeteteen,w rtadd-heub aeSetun yonti.delu tWtm trhWhehepleaia elMrtetrn i Pav“e MLthekealuoey oB nkCusoog hnlan aeaapgvxmnpe ptdenpol oa tawPhrlsselneaa dfstk oAe”., r sanh uiuntigcs aah hrmni lacdiighst t eh Phc taMue tk lhpotsuereuir snreatet,ni ngahdieiino s TS tnRhoi’ saaPr ynakh,rhg aacenehnk, id Dt, e ao cnntdu a rr ael apoosynfnla m e icanabe ctRsorhe oltgs odc ii ohusvn aciospatinitlot eMhtnhra. a aeTvpn heb da ebat ac ketk eehm ynfel aa tnbpopue. . tTgmhhienbe nem birneaegdpst shctohea onso wtdffueeirnrive getsh lh oaeopn vwedisd wti thoohevra eattro r ietdth aha eya .s Cochgsett5sP2cVtbMrpcoohhoeuiuant0ineeoeeveeho eetuktllrcotnflpittttkyhell tswroluunioeCcgtuseoc ez rbeufrr aacue rhaelda,nhraa aanesemroeartals glleatp tiitne t nnammsoi imahrg.euoahmn htne dnTfestuecrnp yf e,dhh tesy omap rd.Sr iait l o namee yTltrarhaSA ,eodio m,ins htnnC vonVrSnDneelseledeeaddghoiut at rgedt e.n ta e mo e enuthtco tcAp vhrrnimndbnnoyteteua iiothetasnn lw ayn ndlciabn attkrt m gmgbt Chis,n tuajyh atvtrohpa lahehih rre bireiebLanndrenleor a,iie setoas n zusgdt. kbrnt e amhooadT wtc ast t uium Kwitihw spsohu annifi Stm hgorbenuurahSi egndeotaimhn taonndtah bF as ml t tantsshsu dgt ri eeoyofm,ota er d ao tdo nrrh y ntnftn hM tv ohbiehw eooeoThodsfceedme,ry eftehtfet hn lro t i a ots kn nla ih e hpmateb ock cseaneLitalhnr t try ae d l lleg eyos k , ds ,. Tenaraitiis raATcSgoitnnneehlonnlhihfireaorotnAf ctgge ei1feddeieiFewcrnenfg miia9 eoe coor iroBMVgiDheselo9naeaunyno,ofin sb rose4 n geira, npWtitol tea oet,anskeisTn gnlnpprm ht svroaaxhgiebdrin gaeoeoncutndnto ea m Pth ntnepwtcPugvgdnuahhahepit uihe nn .ikPseesitec Rvu otl Dasiuiosgl vat oo etiam ,n wfno vV oeteor owrunCtih ied sirtesreftooprens,hs sieapry atot,futnto ,I tsa.rr l hsithauh ranatat Tnogrmliaoenha,eaeennne.h tr tw fsdneNr a assddtptfeite h n p rsid phmia sas Fnta tutSifoh husrtrrsshorcoooieri,oi,aarae c o e tedfuPitmeivsskissh t nnsoWatthtsai s d hrbm aauda yntn atauDForonoeee lcsssdne tcarorhPdh uo e heTtX t ioltDarndnuni r htnehropoaefihlas r g e oscantf Ha ttertedP oBo h eheni tn .wNlre iehr wcagW-ea, i re aoedtn n iwineotirt rgdt.aaad slinhdte gd h . ie s Each region can be quickly identified by its color coding. A complete list of color codes is 190 (cid:3) LAOS AREA BY AREA CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN LAOS (cid:3) 191 2 PRsaoAatsihhlnnpvaelloocedd sgtwew rc hiostgvhSnoh esnioiia envg o epf tsw egnhahrWitMgees etlet os ur ohhtMaa ’ srtsraeftnsr oie sst nheati ui a nhigai agplpmadsl herGu ,i l ead Ttss Nnsslr,or eh ae tnaaoeb rn iftgnuustauryicoowd i tsmnmoecnne eMa odnatldbftai rlsu.eac. pektPor gls k ar voeterehrktdyrsse. ,:. ESTaaeKaaraTPmNiST160qP27MeHwryTnyeolrrnnnhhxloiipaauatescmiwg pixoddceeTTTWWnnCHSPWectctsht aohhhaiaTnheaal eeh roogaemsaaloaitPhkvraaaa sdsp upaam ithuottrg tnisaN arktt anLc cm moi asuTa eePPiaeuhnatr tSIkaaontT onfnr hhiye l tlnpei sn ka tnsatlnKwakWmr wgdghu ue ahkaaoaeoSgiavdhtg ht hv eistkaCo oinCH ei nC tiost tsao Stamhele Dhthr dhieaddhatlhhrekitlset ar d alsneesiia r ioGr hetsr iGensigMmaiaL tgmagstvpiignr s dapslwanaee caih ep rpafaprsgl norelts 1rla ule sshaeanni i.eddf9 ssso PgoigsitorThsaat4f’ ncaoosiHnh ehr rhe–kxfbki esermw eod ssus5t uaapeL Mes. on itCe ip dootn ihVTch, Ngnufa 1affvasob hiinn s9W aanel eettde meoe8itshhtng cnuov–ase ifteceeog i mn9ttatdmTnwga u n revPrrshp gvttbareeiaithaainere stggnyblaekiue o rltP siin gesthpoore ItoN89iA345uresCresahe f,iednnopo raleatPnhteae iktaT .ptoBDSDDXMKklwenlf tla ialkeT,hiPPAbiooorees ui ooosssd eaPamoSnocrrahe lrnnr .ennnaoohPaalsho e mtasramtigeag gv ggittapnaaenfkas.aDveerl e x r nuL n NndnBsSda K NPccaPafenaTdte o doiihsttDu ea ahnoiaN ahl nAeea ePaPniu ntCrrtdoteBnftnaddga ulas krkg g haah nVtTi e deotagksr sttiAALv aiiootaLah pe ak e hopenaa NrrhiolnnBcapseensakshs neupaBha auat2 eaao gmdetD(ktt tloee0 t oN hi lih tPo N,2asaoPro ,fer–Pn,u tvar no neu e3Aattet.i y tslen os n hecn)i r tnt aoveyliePd fc t sa DoBko3 os,l5Piank4hngh04u ,aB f8NtmBa 1(a6n1mCnK , Ofr0eNPKtePpo a7a(hhsaMayr91skLo udmeMUDIPP MC i,nkmni4 iheroLninsg6toaIirnaa)nuP5eatt 8jggvmkt oa ,Korha nt Rhi7nrmnrriunrpger7v a acre greaB )S7coSDLtMHoidrsai kaaeaAoafa elOptnrdi NkdBn kbo (AV Poaaa1NaoBlnhm,ndA rHo7GbgudM 6niVo K eNRn A1KeTraNrai odvmnASBNVTnHOdeeAnghugi)TriNrAeAHAT NnnTonpoHnoiaHAgnKnhnGKgnmA IN geaADHBg aH ToLb m M E uOBo N EnS KNaoHItPTak KiN AgammKLhH HMAl OTeaOnhBPnKCgANedThaLSPuPETIHAsHnoaanGNuhHkoVnAnAu GLsAEN iXENHSTGNAPinAGICSCACeXHhtHN HaiBNsaaAmaA amOoWnTWpMhnyMMgeLPphK S NXuANSaadBNBhAUAhanImXoPkPaa aeP7( onNAoXTSHA2STnPAhe6,honnnNAngTn5a ,aE,DNbbSuo2 P gHMo00SsStiHBnNVePU8 a uySnah56AaPH GLAB Paae8aHAn6A lvHBoaiABAMhkfuinAs U d KatgamoonPfouMaOS a NtUKnneKkrnhTPh gegnm)I V v(iRNonggNDTaAuiS1 ia LbhaDk M,NEOGAX8nBatusBoSNu4yagaomOena noa6nTnnUhn gngpAamN BhSg mHeKoe uNDu)aoAnVkyehKaoMauo npLNTCnCg3uHaaiWRgH,tk P20aDe P SF,uh5H5XSTmAA5nhENuaO,P9u8uen75anEMTanngM1h mdm2g8fMsNPaTeA2 u tB e4oKu PPTnfh SKal(P utt N fohaMnt9aeu f tIODldkoAM(st uhiAn3n ( 7P aDdv(LoS 2SA2TMoS8egP1eihAN aSSfeota7l 4 r,hAama neEatPn78t ASPe Ohti iPYkpm0 sNh)agBKhmetu2Aaoema) aiLGsaS ) ntnkmMtnaeunoDVSgSsA ye)egneP o skIHOeoA EBoKVin nincSnoNNaaag agntKnAnuhgGG lsn geaDee NP5wBSPNvao,hhr2aaHOTnP ui1SySvaTnBg AU i0LaaaKle BaeP 4nAhL wafeaahnKSt,iaot o0dnVann(agm3iy1gnn eE5S,a g5Dx oNmf 8aNottakB mo8 ni 3(SSPa AN1 t,amXP1PK hn,oLnenag2tE5hh)e Ac3mtH9uu tHfi0aS uT Kuf reL Kautp EmsE enAort(Kakem yA)9gklOoy,eB6ud TnaW UTvuL3oagemnar nanNnlmmaT tdSBoa pviB)PDefna hnATGi heaWPsLaunPiurhAdnlo vakaoBD ilb PAnCn ertat takaTouia ehieP nntasgnanhkrauEeathcetcmutmas R eauaucaEoe.r,k i os UuptmhouCnrBBXrpmaS aohn uyteesauasnaslaouy santa iydarmsnoek X cdnttetb mpugfi bhehods1 aoWn 00,yieas3ne p taCa km j haabkaoMemaneitsl lulrneV d naie aPsesrdig tkioeh trrra oh optautuwnnhne lot c GdaCieea gtramm snnhth.etn s,Th d aot i biahnbamem trSytenecien onp5p Sl db cu0Saauraag oooicd Cvt ssaP mcvhiaaahAnteheeknm ofgsorda orncrson nbr rtdaear tuf ooLfnkdiDaeerdaahne b rro5bbdoriecr0ldayneeyysstt.. For hotels and restaurants see p215 and pp232–3 For keys to symbols see back flap HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE (cid:3) 7 5 Street-by-Street Map 154 (cid:3) LAOS AREA BY AREA LUANG PRABANG (cid:3) 155 This gives a bird’s-eye view STsmTMbVttaaorerlhhoeeseto vteetntoe kegrwh gs nrNsorhae.eo.a in eTala nIellsutgeth sgpan it rce eoaht la imae1te nnnewrnn9ts aarada,a 0dn lcb-r cs t4MkMi tsesaedbie o o afnthu rtéWr nne,dPesyts aasdemarh, o:ecnu at -o1t ehf dnmMhr uS9ntea deh 0ra tndSeC te9riMoig l eo,b Si rLafegwsemyu uss tiek foaw ahaarpaosouu on alsen remrcspgtneag xaoa ssntn P ,int,ia nr adwthr:bcsndsape eatoh.db rhOns suiur aeecuKcutcnh cemihsltqliug tenalfdiauil odcneepaher sdr Web ra Khia bnTmywvairoien etcntio.tt tgrh hSeTs whs euiilh,S tpw s e flaeiiF,arhse s c arv aSnoehatninvuUu brnatgaerVhtsc rienaaa phAe. gbn a N atnB tihA NLANG Mekong River SOTIKA KUMAN RD SISWUimtsAtetsVNemoa pnAEtnpr cSNkXeilCslemiG iS eOn t dIhing-sSVesege AapcO s anoMVo NrtdrAnhtaosG saNlt uaoaitoGc Rasrtneqs enOoVd,ua schAA cesuiahTracDcws ethTh easoAo d ayorN skowl A . uoi tnnRhg D 9Lnswuooirtc tWrheao dtmaue tnfdu oPd lritani nii- t Pgacs oh otarlaroreneireaae- tdfaeil rl geedl deans cocsoot m rmoaWSntopiipoalsyohtan ouig.cuLS nTi telotadhdeibcl eeL,e aautd stfhath.r,o noibsgrn u sPMtitr ma daabolppasonloegr sc tC oeaitmvny edMpr aeltephd e is Ash souwgoinngf ieetnhsa rtecee hddk. ecroyh uaatpreet faeo rrc. ao vwearlke dis 8TtTisdhcwheuie soWal pt ltC eeatfoumhmt rriC nepprhesellee losoa, e iufxws igt mnshhougie cdKr. rhBTsho hugwouedunna dasdgsihr mecdado tii mshnb e eypv naealecr nvtiioretecrudraldes ni danpcn eob1t s8y tgeo 5as 6 .r.d en, SISAVANG VONG ROAD PHOU SI ROAD Nam Khan caSK fiéseasy vSa Staenuonvgd egrg err eVaelaslost xeCtn adaogu nrl oo rRdauno ntoieaatbdsl-,s. e aeTrSnrhavhde eso sha elporo ehncp aioohdlwu oessuta srelsee peeCrsvltaa ellcfii néfeaeesss. 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