EYEWITNESS TRAVEL 10 TOP CAIRO & THE NILE 10 MMEugguyasmpetmuiaamn SDMASAQORBUNIoDAAEDERILMw E TM AMGISHnDSHRaAHaAItNlRsAlRe ohIR Ar rISy awHA A Ab SRTQ IiH y-AnAAA ST aRLHISACA- A RH RBI HAA U T M MHARH SP ICRLUA DTSO IARTGA EiaARI AcB NNNof T a h éB w Ale SlTeHIS nA A rH L hAyALAA-Fo AARLLUTRA KIu-I ACH Ns oSoIeALst B em RSlY Ho AApRBoIUASHlARIA SHARIF i AtAaBLSDnAHM AA LR-MIKAHoARI D NS HARIAA h M OHAMMEaqD FLa gI mQRMMKuAU IU mSiD MbSSSHAETHe AANALdRDR F 1111100000 SIUMTnhpncirelmrieleclsiidntstaosigbacn lubeoelsla ue Ntri d nmtioo leEuom sgrce byrausupcm it&stoisev losiptigyeyrsamids 10 Most fun places for children 10 Films set in Egypt 10 Best hotels for every budget 10 Restaurants, cafés & coffee shops 10 Insider tips for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING TOP10 CAIRO & THE NILE ANDREW HUMPHREYS EYEWITNESS TRAVEL s Left Smoking sheesha Centre Ibn Tulun Mosque, Cairo Right Tomb of Nakht, Tombs of the Nobles t n Contents e t n o C Cairo & the Nile’s Top 10 Cairo & the Nile’s Highlights 6 Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by The Egyptian Museum 8 Leo Paper Products Ltd. First published in Great Britain in 2009 The Pyramids of Giza 12 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Mosque of Al-Azhar 14 A Penguin Company 11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Karnak 16 Reprinted with revisions 2011 Copyright 2009, 2011 © Dorling Luxor Temple 20 Kindersley Limited, London All rights reserved. No part of this Temple of Hatshepsut 22 publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form Valley of the Kings 24 or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, Cruising the Nile 26 without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Temple of Philae 28 A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. Abu Simbel 30 ISBN 978 1 40536 100 2 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no Periods of Ancient hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, Egyptian History 34 of roughly equal merit. Ancient Egyptian Culture and Myths 36 Temples 38 Milestones in Egyptology 40 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. At the time of going to press there was major political upheaval in Cairo. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible, but due to the rapidly changing situation, some political information may have since altered. In addition, details such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected]. Cover: Front – Photolibrary: age fotostock/Sylvain Grandadam main; DK Images: Rough Guides/Eddie Gerald bl. Spine – DK Images: Eddie Gerald b. Back – DK Images: Eddie Gerald tc, tr; Jon Spaull tl. 2 Left Temple of Philae Centre View of Islamic Cairo Right Luxor Temple C o n Moments in Post- Beyond Cairo 90 t e Pharaonic History 42 Luxor 98 n t Islamic Architecture 44 Aswan and Lake Nasser 108 s Museums 46 Streetsmart Films Set in Egypt 48 Planning Your Trip 116 Historic Hotels 52 Getting There and Around 117 Souvenirs 54 Practical Information 118 Children’s Attractions 56 Etiquette 119 Egyptian Dishes 58 Things to Avoid 120 Restaurants 60 Security and Health 121 Festivals and Events 62 Shopping and Eating Tips 122 Icons of Popular Culture 64 Cruise Tips 123 Entertainment 66 Places to Stay 124 Around Cairo & the Nile Cruise Ships 133 Central Cairo 70 General Index 134 The Old City 82 Phrase Book 142 Left The Sphinx, Giza Right Felucca sailing on the Nile Key to abbreviations 3 Adm admission charge CAIRO & THE NILE’S TOP 10 Cairo & the Nile’s C Highlights A 6–7 I R The Egyptian Museum O 8–11 The Pyramids of Giza & 12–13 Mosque of Al-Azhar T 14–15 H Karnak E 16–19 N Luxor Temple 20–21 I L Temple of Hatshepsut E 22–23 ’ S Valley of the Kings T 24–25 O Cruising the Nile 26–27 P Temple of Philae 1 28–29 0 Abu Simbel 30–31 Top 10 of Everything 34–67 Cairo & the Nile’s Highlights The Nile is synonymous with Egypt. Almost the entire population of the country is crammed onto the narrow fertile plain fringing the river. It was so during the ancient Egyptian era, when the temples and cities of the pharaohs 0 1 rarely strayed far from the life-sustaining area of the Nile’s banks. Today, the best way to experience Egypt is to explore the Nile, from the awe-inspiring p o Pyramids on the outskirts of the capital of Cairo in the north, to the T great temples in the far south of the country. s ’ e l Egyptian ! i N Museum This is one of the e world’s greatest h museums, not least t for the treasures in & the Tutankhamun galleries, but for the o exhibits from every r i period of ancient a Egyptian history. It has C @ The Pyramids of Giza been calculated that if a The only survivor of the Seven visitor were to spend just Wonders of the Ancient World, one minute at each item, it the Great Pyramid and its two would take more than nine companions are no less wondrous months to see everything now than they were when they (see pp8–11). were built four and a half millennia ago (see pp12–13). Mosque of Al-Azhar£ In addition to the monuments of the pharaohs, Egypt has an unrivalled wealth of historic Islamic architecture stretching back to the 7th century. The Mosque of Al-Azhar in Cairo is one of the jewels of this heritage (see pp14–15). $ Karnak The mother of all ancient Egyptian temple complexes, Karnak was the powerbase of successive dynasties of pharaohs and the priesthood at the zenith of ancient Egypt’s military and artistic might (see pp16–19). Luxor Temple% Once connected to Karnak by an avenue of sphinxes, Luxor is more modest in size than Karnak, but was built by two of the greatest pharaohs, Amenhotep III and Ramses II (see pp20–21). 6 Preceding pages Colossus of Ramses II, Abu Simbel (cid:46)(cid:70)(cid:69)(cid:74)(cid:85)(cid:70)(cid:83)(cid:83)(cid:66)(cid:79)(cid:70)(cid:66)(cid:79) (cid:47)(cid:74)(cid:77)(cid:70) (cid:52)(cid:70)(cid:66) (cid:37)(cid:70)(cid:77)(cid:85)(cid:66) (cid:39)(cid:88)(cid:80)(cid:92)(cid:68)(cid:87) (cid:36)(cid:79)(cid:72)(cid:91)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:85)(cid:76)(cid:68) (cid:46)(cid:68)(cid:73)(cid:85)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:16) (cid:27) (cid:51)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:76)(cid:71) (cid:54)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:76)(cid:78)(cid:75) (cid:36)(cid:79)(cid:16)(cid:48)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:76)(cid:92)(cid:68) C (cid:39)(cid:68)(cid:80)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:75)(cid:88)(cid:85) (cid:36)(cid:79)(cid:16)(cid:48)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:85)(cid:68) a (cid:20)(cid:20) (cid:55)(cid:20)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:68) (cid:61)(cid:68)(cid:74)(cid:68)(cid:93)(cid:76)(cid:74) (cid:44)(cid:86)(cid:80)(cid:68)(cid:76)(cid:79)(cid:76)(cid:68) ^ Temple of Hatshepsut iro (cid:37)(cid:72)(cid:81)(cid:75)(cid:68) (cid:23)(cid:23) Among the many monuments at & (cid:38)(cid:36)(cid:44)(cid:53)(cid:50) (cid:22)(cid:22) Lfeumxoarl,e t phhea treamohp,l eH oatfs Ehgeyppstu’st, osntalyn ds t (cid:20)(cid:19)(cid:45)(cid:66)(cid:76)(cid:70) (cid:54)(cid:68)(cid:43)(cid:84)(cid:84)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:90)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:68)(cid:81) (cid:54)(cid:88)(cid:72)(cid:93) aosuct efonrd iitnsg a tlmerorasct emso (dseeren ipstpic2 2d–e3s)i.gn of he (cid:50)(cid:66)(cid:83)(cid:86)(cid:79) & Valley of the N i (cid:21) Kings le (cid:37)(cid:72)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:3)(cid:54)(cid:88)(cid:72)(cid:73) (cid:21)(cid:25) Tghoen et rferaosmu rtehse atroem lobnsg o f ’s (cid:21)(cid:21) the pharaohs, but it is T possible to descend the o (cid:21) dimly-lit passageways to p (cid:21)(cid:26) underground chambers 1 decorated with vivid (cid:48)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:92)(cid:68) scenes from the afterlife 0 (see pp24–5). (cid:38)(cid:66)(cid:84)(cid:85)(cid:70)(cid:83)(cid:79)(cid:1)(cid:37)(cid:70)(cid:84)(cid:70)(cid:83)(cid:85) (cid:36)(cid:79)(cid:16) (cid:52)(cid:88)(cid:86)(cid:76)(cid:92)(cid:68) (cid:36)(cid:86)(cid:92)(cid:88)(cid:87) (cid:21)(cid:24) (cid:54)(cid:82)(cid:75)(cid:68)(cid:74) (cid:47)(cid:21)(cid:74)(cid:77)(cid:70)(cid:1) (cid:52)(cid:72)(cid:81)(cid:68) Cruising the Nile* When Cleopatra romanced (cid:52)(cid:88)(cid:86) Caesar she did so on a cruise down the Nile. It remains the (cid:47)(cid:88)(cid:91)(cid:82)(cid:85) most romantic and enjoyable way to view Egypt (see pp26–7). (cid:40)(cid:86)(cid:81)(cid:68) (cid:40)(cid:71)(cid:73)(cid:88) (cid:21) (cid:46)(cid:82)(cid:80)(cid:3)(cid:50)(cid:80)(cid:69)(cid:82) ) Abu Simbel (cid:56)(cid:70)(cid:84)(cid:85)(cid:70)(cid:83)(cid:79)(cid:1) (cid:36)(cid:86)(cid:90)(cid:68)(cid:81) This is perhaps (cid:37)(cid:70)(cid:84)(cid:70)(cid:83)(cid:85) the temple that best symbolizes the grandeur (cid:46)(cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:195)(cid:69)(cid:86)(cid:75)(cid:68) of ancient Egypt. The Sun Temple is carved (cid:21) out of a mountainside (cid:45)(cid:66)(cid:76)(cid:70) Temple of Philae( and fronted by four (cid:47)(cid:66)(cid:84)(cid:84)(cid:70)(cid:83) A mix of Egyptian and towering colossi Roman elements characterize of its builder, this temple complex sited on a Ramses II picturesque island in the middle (see pp30–31). of the Nile (see pp28–9). 7 Egyptian Museum All of ancient Egyptian history is here, from the earliest Pharaonic artefact ever discovered to treasures from the era of Cleopatra, the last in a dynastic sequence of divine kings and queens stretching over three millennia. It is said 0 1 that the museum displays more than 120,000 items, with at least that many again stored away out of sight in the basement. The real crowd pleasers are p o the treasures from Tutankhamun’s tomb, but there are many hundreds of T other precious antiquities here of at least equal significance and beauty. s e’ Top 10 Features £ Central Hall il 1 The Museum Building The museum is on two N 2 Auguste Mariette floors. On the lower floor galleries are arranged in e 3 Central Hall chronological order h 4 Old Kingdom Galleries clockwise around a t 5 New Kingdom Galleries central hall dedicated o & Central hall 67 ATumtaanrknhaa Rmouonm Galleries tiso alalsrgoe w sthaeturea ryyo; uth is ir The museum fills up 8 The Royal Mummies wNailrlm fienrd P tahleet te a fast and it is best to 9 Animal Mummies (see p10). C arrive early to beat 0 Ancient Egyptian tchroew wdosr. sTth oefr et hise an Jewellery Rooms 4 3 extra charge to take your camera inside. ! The Museum Building There is a café on Egypt’s first national the ground floor museum of antiquities overlooking the opened in 1863. It was museum’s garden. rehoused in the current pink, purpose-built premises • Map F3 in 1902, which were • Midan Tahrir, designed in Neo-Classical Downtown, Cairo style by French architect • 02 2578 2448 Marcel Dourgnon. • Open 9am–6pm • Adm £E60; Royal @ Auguste Mariette Mummy Room adm The Egyptologist £E100 Mariette, who discovered the Serapeum at Saqqara (see p40), was the founder of the first national museum of antiquities in Egypt. His sarcophagus rests in the garden in $ Old Kingdom front of the Egyptian Galleries Museum (below). Immediately to the left of the entrance hall, these galleries contain artefacts from the era of the Pyramid builders. Particularly beautiful are three slate triads each depicting Menkaure, builder of the smallest of the Giza pyramids, flanked by two goddesses (above). 8 For highlights of ancient Egyptian history see pp34–5