Buttoned Up: Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity PDF
Preview Buttoned Up: Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity
BUTTONED UP Buttoned Up Clothing, Conformity, and White-Collar Masculinity Erynn Masi de Casanova ILR PRESS AN IMPRINT OF CORNELL UNIVERSITY PRESS ITHACA AND LONDON Cover design by Carol Hayes. Copyright © 2015 by Erynn Masi de Casanova All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or parts thereof, must not be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from the publisher. For information, address Cornell University Press, Sage House, 512 East State Street, Ithaca, New York 14850. First published 2015 by Cornell University Press First printing, Cornell Paperbacks, 2015 Printed in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Casanova, Erynn Masi de, 1977– author. Buttoned up : clothing, conformity, and white-collar masculinity / Erynn Masi de Casanova. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-8014-5418-9 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-1-5017-0049-1 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Clothing and dress—Social aspects—United States. 2. Sex role—United States—History—20th century. 3. Men—United States—Social life and customs. 4. White collar workers—United States. 5. Men's clothing—United States. I. Title. GT615.C37 2015 391.00973—dc23 2015010594 Cornell University Press strives to use environmentally responsible suppliers and materials to the fullest extent possible in the publishing of its books. Such materials include vegetable-based, low-VOC inks and acid-free papers that are recycled, totally chlorine-free, or partly composed of nonwood fibers. For further information, visit our website at www.cornellpress.cornell.edu. Cloth printing 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Paperback printing 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 For my parents, with love and appreciation Contents Introduction 1 1. Playing by the Rules: Dress Codes in Corporate Workplaces 7 Trading Places 31 2. Just Like Dad? Family Relations and Class Origins in Dressing for White-Collar Work 35 Watches and Shoes 62 3. Putting On the Uniform: Choice, Obligation, and Collective Identity 65 Tailor Tales 87 4. The Metrosexual Is Dead, Long Live the Metrosexual! 91 Zuck’s Hoodie 117 5. What about Women? Gender and Dress at Work and Home 120 A Man Should Never Wear ___. 147 6. The F Word: Men’s Engagement with Fashion 148 Comfort 172 7. Being/Becoming the Boss: Office Hierarchies and Dress 175 Conclusion 200 Acknowledgments 205 Appendix: Research Methods and Demographic Profile of Interviewees 207 Notes 221 References 239 Index 249 Photo gallery BUTTONED UP
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