Bust - March 2022

102 Pages·2022·20.6 MB·English

CAT POWER • MITSKI • MIGHTY MUSHROOMS • GOLDEN GIRLS FASHION
ANNIE
MURPHY
ON LIFE AFTER SCHITT'S CREEK

WINTER 2022
. .
2 SPRING 2022 BUST
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
SPRING 2022
FEATURES
38 MURPHY’S LAW On Schitt’s Creek, Annie 60 CAT TALES As her musical alter ego Cat Power,
Murphy coined the phrase “Ew David,” had us singer/songwriter Chan Marshall has lived all
singing along to “A Little Bit Alexis,” and earned of her nine lives to the fullest.
a well-deserved Emmy. Now she’s back, and her By Eliza C. Thompson
future just keeps getting brighter.
By Niesha Davis 64 NOT YOUR BASIC WITCH Supernatural Slavic
folk heroine Baba Yaga may eat kids and flay
46 A SHROOM OF ONE’S OWN Mushrooms are arrogant men alive, but she can still be a role
definitely having a moment. But the connection model for women looking for an icon with bite.
between women and mycology goes way (way!) By Madame Pamita
back. By Alanna Burns
70 HOUSE PARTY Marvelously modern looks
54 READ MY LIPS How TikTok helped one woman modeled by Mitski. Photographed by Diana
feel less alone in her bathing-suit zone. King, Styled by Amanda O’Connor
By Kristen Pizzo
ON THE COVER AND THIS PAGE: ANNIE MURPHY PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAITLIN CRONENBERG FOR BUST. STYLING BY AMBER
WATKINS; MAKEUP BY LUCKY BROMHEAD; HAIR BY ANA SORYS.
ON THE COVER: ANDREW COIMBRA DRESS AND GLOVES; ROTATE DRESS; KURT GEIGER RINGS; LIARS & LOVERS RINGS.
THIS PAGE: VINTAGE SIMONE ROCHA COAT; NINA SPADE X SILENCIA EARRINGS; ARMED RINGS.
3
TABLE OF CONTENTS
21
70
24
64
91
60
36
AT
C
REGULARS A; (
R
A
K
AY
B
6 EDITOR’S LETTER 18 POP QUIZ R.I.P. bell hooks. 31 FASHIONISTA Sloan’s plus- SEX FILES EK
8 DEAR BUST By Emily Rems size pieces are the perfect 91 SEX FILES Meals 4 Heels A) DIL
G
fit. By Chris Ciolli feeds sex workers what A
Y
BROADCAST REAL LIFE they crave; and more. BA
A
B
9 Reservation Dogs’ Devery 19 Turn the world on with 32 GET THIS LOOK Stay Golden. T; (
Jacobs; Noname’s Book your tile; animator Andrea By Callie Watts 92 ANSWERS FROM THE QUEEN GH
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and more. Things We Dig. By Dr. Carol Queen VE) NEE
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4 SPRING 2022 BUST

EDITOR’S LETTER
Face Time
I’VE BEEN SPENDING a lot of time lately thinking are we meant to question why Ullman’s character would
about Christine Baranski’s face. The star of stage and want to sleep with David, who is no less off-putting than
screen is featured in Julian Fellowes’ latest show, The she is, either in personality, or—and this is important—
Gilded Age, which can best be described as Downton Abbey in looks. On the show, there isn’t any discussion about
set in 1880s New York. In it, Baranski plays an elder pro- Ullman’s character getting plastic surgery to look more
tector of the privileged old guard, similar to the role Maggie youthful, but she does say she’s interested in having
Smith played on Downton Abbey. Smith, who was 75 when “vaginal rejuvenation surgery”—the implication being
Downton first aired in 2010, very much looked the part of that not only is she unappealing because she’s an older
the wizened dowager, with wrinkles, gray hair, and even woman, but also because she has an old, droopy vagina
a trembly voice. However, at 69, Baranski’s face betrays (which would most likely match David’s own droopy ball
nary a wrinkle, indicating that she’s likely had, as they say, sack, but whatever).
“some work done.” I do not hold this against her one bit. We can all agree that our society, and especially the
Baranski, after all, makes her living in the extremely ageist entertainment industry, ruled as they are by men, have
and sexist entertainment industry. But, given that the show little stomach for women with old faces. But when the only
pays so much attention to getting every period detail cor- older women in pop culture are younger women who have
rect, I couldn’t help but wonder—à la Carrie Bradshaw— been digitally aged to appear older; older performers who
whether it wasn’t incumbent upon the show’s makeup have undergone what I’ve jokingly referred to as “age con-
artists to have aged Baranski for a more era-accurate look. firmation surgery;” or older women who actually look their
After all, in 1882, 69-year-old white women had wrinkles. age but that fact itself becomes a major plot point—either
Speaking of Carrie Bradshaw, in the recent Sex and the because they’ve chosen not to change their faces, or their
City reboot, And Just Like That, the character (played by looks are played up for laughs or disgust—we have an even
56-year-old Sarah Jessica Parker) is confronted by a plas- deeper problem. In the past, there was a time when women
tic surgeon who informs her that he can “erase the last 30 were allowed to age out of the doom cycle of self-hatred
years from her face.” Carrie declines his offer, realizing that about physical attributes not under their control, but now
the past 30 years were some of her most joyful, and she has that we can change these things (if we can afford to), has
no desire to erase them. And indeed, it doesn’t seem that this cycle become never-ending? And even if we think
Parker, nor costar Cynthia Nixon, have altered their faces, this is an issue that only female celebrities need to worry
despite the pressure both must be under given their career. about, stricter ideals of feminine appearance have a habit
Kristin Davis, on the other hand, who plays Charlotte, of jumping from our screens into our lives. Just as shaved
does look like she’s been under the knife or the needle. But pussies were, not long ago, solely the domain of porn stars,
for her character, Charlotte—who has always embraced how long will it be before we consider the unaltered older
the most traditional ideals of womanhood, where beauty, woman’s face to be unnatural, gross, “old fashioned,” or a
marriage, and kids are the ultimate life goals, and who is political statement, the way a hairy mound is thought of
also quite wealthy—having plastic surgery is completely today? And would that be bad? Good? Anti-feminist? Just
appropriate. In fact, if Davis hadn’t had any work done, the another aspect of gendered display?
show’s makeup artists might have been compelled to make There’s so much to unpack here, and I don’t have a
it look as if she had. clear answer. But that’s why I’ve been spending so much
Yet, while there is barely any room for older women time lately thinking about Christine Baranski’s face.
who look their age in pop culture, older men don’t face a
similar critique, a hypocrisy so common as to be practi- xoxo,
cally invisible, even when it threatens a narrative’s logic.
Case in point: the latest season of Curb Your Enthusiasm
features the balding, 72-year-old Larry David playing a
deeply annoying version of himself, who, for reasons too
complex to explain here, pairs up with a similarly old,
deeply annoying woman, played by 61-year-old Tracey P.S. I ran out of room here to discuss the current issue,
Ullman in comfortable clothes and a bad wig. David’s but check out our feature stories “Not Your Basic Witch”
friends find it curious that he would be dating and, even and “A Shroom of One’s Own” for some alternative takes
worse, having sex with such an unappealing woman, and on the value of elder women, plus don’t miss our fabulous
David himself is disgusted to the point of nausea while interviews and everything else you’ve come to expect
consummating the relationship. However, at no point from us. Enjoy!
. .
6 SPRING 2022 BUST
CONTRIBUTORS
SPRING 2022 - ISSUE 128
Caitlin Cronenberg, who shot our cover
story with Annie Murphy, graduated from
Ryerson University in 2006 with a degree
in fashion design, then shifted direction
to pursue a career in photography. Her
FOR WOMEN WITH SOMETHING
work has been featured in L’Uomo Vogue,
TO GET OFF THEIR CHESTS
W Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, Variety,
Paper, and countless other outlets, as well
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
as on a number of international movie posters. And she made
Debbie Stoller @bust_magazine
her directorial debut in 2018 with a short film that premiered
CREATIVE DIRECTOR at TIFF. A proud Torontonian, Cronenberg shot the cover and
Laurie Henzel @mrs_columbo
album art for Drake’s certified four-time platinum, Grammy-
MANAGING EDITOR nominated album Views, cementing her as one of the most
Emily Rems @remsemily sought-after shooters in Canada and abroad.
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
Lucas Irwin @filth73
Diana King, who shot Mitski for this
ASSOCIATE EDITOR/CUSTOMER SERVICE
issue, is a Chinese American editorial
Callie Watts
portrait and commercial photographer
MUSIC EDITOR based in Nashville. She is obsessed with
Emily Nokes @emily_shmemily color and light in her photography but is
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR always seen wearing black. King’s diverse
Lisa Butterworth @lisabutterworth portfolio includes work for publications
including Billboard, InStyle, The New
FILM EDITOR
Jenni Miller @msjennim York Times, and The Washington Post, and for the brands H&M
and Samsung. She is passionate about supporting women and
LOOKS EDITOR BIPOC creatives and she is the creator and director of Almost
Marie Lodi @marielodiandreakos
Asian, Almost American, an ongoing photo and video essay
SEX FILES/DIGITAL EDITOR project that allows Asian American women to define their own
Niesha Davis @brwnandabroad beauty and identities.
COPY EDITOR
Vanessa Weiman @vanessaweiman
Marie Lodi, who is BUST’s new “Looks”
section editor, has been writing about
PUBLISHERS beauty, fashion, and pop culture for over
Laurie Henzel and Debbie Stoller
a decade. She is the former senior beauty
PARTNERSHIPS & MULTIMEDIA ADVERTISING SALES editor of HelloGiggles, a founding writer at
Maggie Tam Clark [email protected] Rookie, and has written for The Cut, Paper,
Allure, ELLE, and more. She is also the co-
BOOKKEEPER
Amy Moore host of Fishnet Flix, a weekly podcast about costume design and
fashion in film, and she creates recipes inspired by period-food
cravings for her blog, Bloodfeast. You can follow her on Instagram
EDITORIAL INTERNS
Chiara Atoyebi, Kate Beacom, Valentine Fabre, @marielodiandreakos and on Twitter @agentlover. 
Rebecca Katz, Madigan Landess,
Kerry-Anne Loughman, Tilly O'Brien, Elizabeth
Safaryn, Holyn Thigpen, Shadee Vossoughi
Madame Pamita, who wrote “Not Your
Basic Witch” about Baba Yaga, lives in
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS: Santa Monica and is a Ukrainian diaspora
[email protected] witch and a teacher, author, candlemaker,
917-983-5677
BUST.COM spellcaster, tarot reader, and a maker of
magic, music, and mischief. She is the
author of the books Baba Yaga’s Book of
©2022 BUST, Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in any retrieval system,
or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or Witchcraft: Slavic Magic from the Witch
otherwise, without the permission of the publisher. The articles and advertising appearing within this
publication reflect the opinions and attitudes of their respective authors and not necessarily those of of the Woods, The Book of Candle Magic, and Madame Pamita’s
the publisher or editors.
Magical Tarot. She plays bass in the all-female bands the Nep-
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Canada returns to be sent to IMEX Global Solutions, P.O. Box tunas and Cheap Chick. And she is also the proprietress of the
25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
online spiritual apothecary, the Parlour of Wonders. Find her
online at parlourofwonders.com.
7
DEAR BUST

New Year, Who Dis?
I appreciate you including the via Tw itter via Instagram
voices of lesser-heard writers,
artists, musicians, activists, and
more. I always learn so much Somehow I didn't realize my own
from each issue. As an Asian library offers a virtual version of
American, I was excited to see @bust_magazine
you include a piece on the Lunar and now my day is made!
New Year in your latest issue –@librarianliss
(“Eye of the Tiger,” Winter 2022). I was even more ex-
cited (as a Tibetan studies researcher) to see that the I am the proud parent of a published
author, Jennifer Chen, offered a corrective to the view writer. One of Cora’s pieces was featured
that Lunar New Year only refers to Chinese New Year, in BUST Magazine and I could not be
and she even mentioned the Tibetan Lunar New Year, prouder! BUST is a magazine I can get
“Losar,” as an example of other Asian Lunar New Year behind 100%. By women, for women,
celebrations. However, I was disappointed when the about women. Please consider supporting
author went on to only describe her own Chinese New this amazing publication! And definitely
Year practices. I appreciate how the author was trying buy this Winter, 2022, edition!!!
to be inclusive of other Asian traditions by mentioning –@awombey
them. But by not describing those different traditions
as well, it unfortunately had the opposite effect.
–Eveline Washul, Assistant Professor, Department of Two years ago this
Central Eurasian Studies, Indiana University weekend 
@bust_magazine 
Happy Feet Issue 1 of @bust_magazine—born @onegirlcookies 
Thanks for your article in July 1993 as a photocopied #zine –@emilyscookieart
about getting your tap and still going strong today…
dancing on (“Shuffle –@fanzines
Off To Buffalo,” Winter Taking a look at
2022), something I’ve my Bust Magazine
been meaning to do collection, I
after finding these at the realized the early
Salvation Army last sum- issues are now
mer. Let the games “Begin the Beguine.” –Carolyn Zick, over 20 years old
New London, CT (how?! ).
Thought I’d start
Suggestion Box sharing these in case other folks enjoy
I have loved your magazine for decades! I just came the early 00s issues and…look who had
across an article yesterday about the first Indigenous an amazing spread in the first issue of
woman-owned airline here where I live on the West Surprise, boo boos! I’m on the Bust (Summer 2001) I ever bought: the
Coast of Canada, and I needed to share it! The flights cover of the latest ish of amazing @worldfamousbob, along with
go from our main Vancouver, BC, airport (YVR), to @bust_magazine! It’s an honor to the hilarious Kate Valentine and other
Vancouver Island. I feel so proud of these women, I am have a tête-à-tête w/the amazing amazing artists! –@queerlesque_cutie
bursting! Thank you for everything you do! cocoa queen @jamiaw & talk about
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8 SPRING 2022 BUST