Children in a train compartment, traveling back to Mandalay from a festival in Lashio. ALSO BY NAOMI DUGUID (all cowritten with Jeffrey Alford) Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia Seductions of Rice HomeBaking: The Artful Mix of Flour and Tradition Around the World Flatbreads and Flavors: A Baker’s Atlas PUBLISHED BY RANDOM HOUSE CANADA Text copyright © 2012 Naomi Duguid Location photographs copyright © 2012 Naomi Duguid Studio photographs copyright © 2012 Richard Jung Map copyright © 2012 by Michael Newhouse All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review. Published in 2012 by Random House Canada, a division of Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto, and simultaneously in the United States of America by Artisan, a division of Workman Publishing Company, Inc., New York. Distributed in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited. www.randomhouse.ca Random House Canada and colophon are registered trademarks. Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Duguid, Naomi Burma : rivers of flavor / Naomi Duguid. Includes index. eISBN: 978-0-30736217-9 1. Cooking, Burmese. 2. Burma—Description and travel. I. Title. TX724.5.B93D85 2012 641.59591 C2012-902064-8 Food styling by Linda Tubby Jacket photographs by Richard Jung (studio food) and Naomi Duguid (location) v3.1 (Title page): Ruins at sunset on the plains near Bagan. Offerings at Shwedagon, a temple complex in Rangoon. To the people of Burma, whose resilience in hard times, and generosity to a stranger, are remarkable and moving. And to Dom and Tashi and my extended family of friends, with love and thanks. Bicycle and shopfront in the early morning, central Hsipaw. CONTENTS Cover Other Books by This Author Title Page Copyright Dedication Preface Introduction The Place and the People Flavors and Dishes BURMA BASICS SALADS SOUPS MOSTLY VEGETABLES FISH AND SEAFOOD CHICKEN BEEF AND PORK CONDIMENTS AND SAUCES MOSTLY RICE NOODLES SWEET TREATS Burma over Time Traveling in Burma