Brussels & Bruges

258 Pages·2005·4.82 MB·English

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Brussels
& Bruges
with Ghent & Antwerp
2nd Edition
by George McDonald
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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01_576666 ffirs.qxd 3/22/05 12:07 PM Page i
Brussels
& Bruges
with Ghent & Antwerp
2nd Edition
by George McDonald
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_576666 ffirs.qxd 3/22/05 12:07 PM Page ii
About the Author
George McDonaldhas lived and worked in Brussels, as editor-in-chief of the
in-flight magazine for Sabena. Now a freelance journalist and travel writer, he has
written extensively on Belgium for magazines and for travel books that include
Frommer’s Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg;Frommer’s Europe;and Frommer’s Europe
from $70 a Day. He’s also the author of Frommer’s Amsterdam.
Published by:
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ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-7666-9
ISBN-10: 0-7645-7666-6
Editor: Cate Latting
Production Editor: Bethany André
Cartographer: Nick Trotter
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: La Grand-Place illuminated at night
Back cover photo: Bruges: Aerial of outdoor cafes in Market Square
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5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps v
What’s New in Brussels,Bruges,Ghent & Antwerp 1
1 The Best of Brussels,Bruges,Ghent & Antwerp 3
1 The Best Travel Experiences . . . . .3 6 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
2 The Best Art Collections . . . . . . .5 7 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . .8
3 The Best Castles & 8 The Best Buys . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Stately Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 9 The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . . .9
4 The Best Historic Sights . . . . . . .6 10 The Best Cafes & Bars . . . . . . .10
5 The Best Churches . . . . . . . . . . .7
Planning Your Trip to Brussels,Bruges,
2 Ghent & Antwerp 11
1 The Cities in Brief . . . . . . . . . . .11 7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .22
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .12 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . .24
3 Entry Requirements & 9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .27
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Frommers.com: The Complete
Destination Brussels, Bruges, Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Ghent & Antwerp: Red Alert 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .29
Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .30
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
The Euro, the U.S. Dollar &
12 Getting Around Belgium . . . . . .35
the British Pound . . . . . . . . . . .16
13 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .37
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
14 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Brussels, Bruges, Ghent &
Antwerp Calendar of Events . . .18 15 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .40
6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Fast Facts:Belgium . . . . . . . . .41
3 Settling into Brussels 46
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .70
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .50 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
Native Behavior . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Quick Bites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .51 On Your Guard in the
Road Non-Sense . . . . . . . . . . .57 Ilôt Sacré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
Fast Facts:Brussels . . . . . . . . .58 Getting the Best Deal
on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Getting the Best Deal
on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .68
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iv CONTENTS
4 Exploring Brussels 86
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .86 10 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .105
1 The Grand-Place . . . . . . . . . . . .87 Comic Cuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
Christmas in the Grand-Place . . .94 11 The European District . . . . . . .107
2 Brussels’s Other 12 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .107
Principal Squares . . . . . . . . . . .95 Special & Free Events . . . . . . .108
3 The Top Museums & Galleries . . .96 Walking Tour: Ilôt Sacré
A New Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 to the Marolles . . . . . . . . . . .109
4 Important Buildings & 13 Sports & Recreation . . . . . . . .111
Monuments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 14 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
5 Parc du Cinquantenaire . . . . . .100 Belgian Specialties:
6 Sights of Religious Chocolate & More . . . . . . . . .113
Significance . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 15 Brussels After Dark . . . . . . . . .117
7 More Museums & Puppet Shows: A Belgian
Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 Passion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
8 Bruparck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 16 Side Trips from Brussels . . . . . .123
9 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . .104
5 Bruges 127
Hanseatic History . . . . . . . . . .127 Folklore Events in Bruges . . . .152
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 Walking Tour: Through
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .129 the Heart of Bruges . . . . . . . .152
Fast Facts:Bruges . . . . . . . . .130 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .131 7 Bruges After Dark . . . . . . . . . .156
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .137 8 Side Trips from Bruges . . . . . .158
5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .141
6 Ghent 171
Rebel Stands . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .177
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173 4 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .179
Fast Facts:Ghent . . . . . . . . . .174 Walking Tour: Historic Ghent . . .183
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .175 5 Ghent After Dark . . . . . . . . . .187
7 Antwerp 189
The Hand of Antwerp . . . . . . .189 4 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .199
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205
Fast Facts:Antwerp . . . . . . . .194 6 Antwerp After Dark . . . . . . . .206
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .195 7 Side Trips from Antwerp . . . . .207
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .197
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CONTENTS v
Appendix A:Brussels,Bruges,Ghent &
Antwerp in Depth 210
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210 3 The Flemish Masters . . . . . . . .220
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210 4 A Taste of Flanders . . . . . . . . .221
2 Flanders Today . . . . . . . . . . .218
Appendix B:Useful Terms & Phrases 225
1 Basic Vocabulary . . . . . . . . . .225 2 Flemish Menu Savvy . . . . . . . .227
Index 230
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .230 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .244
Accommodations Index . . . . . .243
List of Maps
Belgium 5 Bruges Accommodations
Brussels Neighborhoods 52 & Dining 132
Brussels Public Transportation 55 Bruges Attractions 142
Brussels Accommodations Walking Tour: Through the Heart
& Dining 62 of Bruges 153
Brussels Attractions 88 Ostend 160
The Grand-Place 91 Ghent 172
Walking Tour: Ilôt Sacré to the Walking Tour: Historic Ghent 184
Marolles 110 Antwerp 190
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To John Sparrow, whose enthusiasm for covering—and uncovering—the secrets
of the “masterpiece called Belgium,” I’ve done my best to emulate.
Acknowledgments
I’d like to thank Dagmar Schenck for her help in getting facts right.
—George McDonald
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Brussels & Bruges with Ghent & Antwerp, 2nd Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg
Frommer’s Europe
Frommer’s Europe from $85 a Day
Frommer’s Gay & Lesbian Europe
Europe For Dummies
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
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