Praise for Brunch: A History “Thisengaging,informativebooktracesthehistoryofbrunchfromitsoriginsasahunt breakfastfortheBritishelitetothehipstermealparexcellence.Buttheauthor’sscope extendsbeyondtheAnglo-AmericanworldtocoverbrunchinAsia,SouthAsia,andthe MiddleEast.Herimpressivearrayofsourcesincludesmagazines,cookbooks,movies, music,andnovels,whichmakeforadelightfulaccountofthemealthathasbeencalled oneoflife’sgreatpleasures.”—ColleenTaylorSen,foodwriterandhistorian;coau- thor/cowriter, Street Food Around the World: An Encyclopedia of Food and Culture andFoodCultureinIndiaandCurry:AGlobalHistory “Whyweeatwhatweeatwhenweeatarequestionsthatarenotalwaystackledtogether andrarelyisthelastonethefocalpoint.Inherwell-researchedandinnovativehistory ofbrunch,FarhaTernikarleadsusthroughafascinatingculinaryjourneythatripples out globally overthe spanof morethan a century.Whenprobed througha varietyof cultural,social,andtemporalprisms,thefoodsandreasonsforselectingthembecome dislodged from our mundane menus to become symbolic markers of an engrossing, widernarrative.”—GeorgeSolt,assistantprofessorofhistory,NewYorkUniversity “Brunchturnsouttobeagreatstory,intricateandfullofsurprises.Thisbooktakesus outforarichmealinafinerestaurantandalsointotheintimateritualofthefamilyat home.Likethemealitself,Brunchisaneclecticandflexiblemix,relatingthehistoryof manythingstodaytakenforgranted.”—RichardWilk,Provost’sProfessorofAnthro- pology,IndianaUniversity “Afterthehour-longwaitfortheperfecteggsBenedict,readBrunch.Ternikar’sfasci- natingbookshowsushowtheworld’snewestmealtimespreadacrosstheglobe,from Emily PostatDelmonico’sto Dubai. Beyondcomfortfoods andweekend indulgence lies a powerful history of class, colonialism, family, and home.” —Daniel Bender, professorandCanadaResearchChairinCulturalHistory,UniversityofToronto BRUNCH The Meals Series aspartoftheRowman&Littlefield StudiesinFoodandGastronomy General Editor: Ken Albala, Professor of History, Univer- sityofthePacific([email protected]) Rowman & Littlefield Executive Editor: Suzanne Staszak- Silva([email protected]) TheMealsseriesexaminesourdailymeals—breakfast,lunch,dinner,tea—aswellas special mealssuchas the picnicandbarbeque, bothas historicalconstruct andglobal phenomena.Wetakethesemealsforgranted,buttheseriesvolumesprovidesurprising information that will change the way you think about eating. A single meal in each volumeisanatomized,itssocialandculturalmeaningbroughtintosharpfocus,andthe customs and manners of various peoples are explained in context. Each volume also lookscloselyatthefoodswecommonlyincludeandwhy. Breakfast:AHistory,byHeatherArndtAnderson(2013) ThePicnic:AHistory,byWalterLevy(2013) Lunch:AHistory,byMeganElias(2014) Brunch:AHistory,byFarhaTernikar(2014) Barbeque:AHistory,byTimMiller(2014) BRUNCH A History Farha Ternikar ROWMAN & LITTLEFIELD Lanham • Boulder • New York • London PublishedbyRowman&Littlefield AwhollyownedsubsidiaryofTheRowman&LittlefieldPublishingGroup, Inc. 4501ForbesBoulevard,Suite200,Lanham,Maryland20706 www.rowman.com 16CarlisleStreet,LondonW1D3BT,UnitedKingdom Copyright©2014byRowman&Littlefield Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformorby anyelectronicormechanicalmeans,includinginformationstorageandretriev- alsystems,withoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher,exceptbyareviewer whomayquotepassagesinareview. BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationInformationAvailable LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData Ternikar,Farha,1970– Brunch:ahistory/FarhaTernikar. pagescm—(Themealsseries) Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex. ISBN978-1-4422-2942-6(cloth:alk.paper)—ISBN978-1-4422-2943-3(electronic:alk.paper)1. Brunches—History.2.Foodhabits—History.I.Title. GT2850.T432014 394.1'25209—dc23 2014003612 TMThepaperusedinthispublicationmeetstheminimumrequirementsof AmericanNationalStandardforInformationSciencesPermanenceofPaper forPrintedLibraryMaterials,ANSI/NISOZ39.48-1992. PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica To Dad, who taught me his love of aloo paratha and keema, weetabix, and marmalade and biscuits. I wish you were here to share brunch.