Bright modernity : color, commerce, and consumer culture PDF
Preview Bright modernity : color, commerce, and consumer culture
Worlds of Consumption Series Editors Hartmut Berghoff Institute for Economic & Social History University of Göttingen, Göttingen, Germany Uwe Spiekermann Institute for Economic & Social History University of Göttingen, Göttingen, Germany Published in association with the German Historical Institute, Washington, DC. This series brings together historical research on consumption and con- sumerism in the modern era, especially the twentieth century, and with a particular focus on comparative and transnational studies. It aims to make research available in English from an increasingly internationalized and inter- disciplinaryfield.The historyof consumptionoffers avitallink amongdiverse fields of history and other social sciences, because modern societies are con- sumer societies whose political, cultural, social, and economic structures and practices are bound up with the history of consumption. Worlds of Consumption highlights and explores these linkages, which deserve wide attention becausethey shapewho weareasindividuals andsocieties. More information aboutthisseries at http://www.springer.com/series/14382 ReginaLeeBlaszczyk(cid:129)UweSpiekermann Editors Bright Modernity Color, Commerce, and Consumer Culture Editors ReginaLeeBlaszczyk UweSpiekermann SchoolofHistory InstituteforEconomic&SocialHistory UniversityofLeeds UniversityofGöttingen Leeds,UnitedKingdom Göttingen,Germany WorldsofConsumption ISBN978-3-319-50744-6 ISBN978-3-319-50745-3(eBook) DOI10.1007/978-3-319-50745-3 LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2017940258 ©TheEditor(s)(ifapplicable)andTheAuthor(s)2017 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.AllrightsaresolelyandexclusivelylicensedbythePublisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any otherphysicalway,andtransmissionorinformationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation, computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilarmethodologynowknownorhereafterdeveloped. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publicationdoesnotimply,evenintheabsenceofaspecificstatement,thatsuchnamesareexempt fromtherelevantprotectivelawsandregulationsandthereforefreeforgeneraluse. Thepublisher,theauthorsandtheeditorsaresafetoassumethattheadviceandinformationinthis bookarebelievedtobetrueandaccurateatthedateofpublication.Neitherthepublishernorthe authorsortheeditorsgiveawarranty,expressorimplied,withrespecttothematerialcontained hereinorforanyerrorsoromissionsthatmayhavebeenmade.Thepublisherremainsneutralwith regardtojurisdictionalclaimsinpublishedmapsandinstitutionalaffiliations. Cover illustration: Shade card for spring 1901, J. B. Chambeyron fils, St. Etienne and Lyon, France, Hagley Museum and Library, Wilmington, DE, accession 2188: Papers of the Inter-SocietyColorCouncil,item118.CourtesyofHagleyMuseumandLibrary. Printedonacid-freepaper ThisPalgraveMacmillanimprintispublishedbySpringerNature TheregisteredcompanyisSpringerInternationalPublishingAG Theregisteredcompanyaddressis:Gewerbestrasse11,6330Cham,Switzerland C ONTENTS 1 BrightModernity:Color, Commerce, andConsumer Culture 1 ReginaLeeBlaszczyk andUweSpiekermann PartI Foundations:Industry and Education 2 Coloringthe World: MarketingGermanDyestuffs inthe Late Nineteenthand EarlyTwentiethCenturies 37 AlexanderEngel 3 LearningtoSee withMiltonBradley 55 NicholasGaskill PartII GenderandColor 4 “Real MenWear Pink”? AGenderHistory of Color 77 Dominique Grisard 5 NewWords andFanciful Names:Dyes, Color,andFashion in theMid-Nineteenth Century 97 CharlotteNicklas 6 Let’sGo ColorShopping withCharlesSanders Peirce:Color Scientists asConsumersof Color 113 MichaelRossi v vi CONTENTS PartIII Ringmasters tothe Rainbow:Color Inventions and VisualCulture 7 MoviesMeet the Rainbow 133 JoyceBedi 8 GlamourPink: The Marketingof Residential Electric Lighting inthe Age ofColor, 1920s–1950s 149 Margaret MailePetty 9 Life inColor: Life Magazine andthe ColorReproduction of Worksof Art 167 Melissa Renn PartIV Predicting the Rainbow 10 The ColorSchemers: American Color Practicein Britain, 1920s–1960s 191 ReginaLeeBlaszczyk 11 Modeurop:UsingColor toUnify theEuropean Shoe andLeather Industry 227 Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson 12 Who Decidesthe Color ofthe Season? How aTrade Show CalledPremièreVision ChangedFashionCulture 251 MaryLisa Gavenas Index 271 L C IST OF ONTRIBUTORS Joyce Bedi Lemelson Center for the Study of Invention and Innovation, Smithsonian Institution,Washington,DC,USA ReginaLeeBlaszczyk SchoolofHistory,UniversityofLeeds,Leeds,UnitedKingdom AlexanderEngel InstituteforEconomicandSocialHistory,UniversityofGöttingen, Germany MaryLisaGavenas Journalistandindependentscholar,NewYork,NY,USA Nicholas Gaskill Department of English, Rutgers University, New Brunswick, NJ, USA IngridGiertz-Mårtenson CentreforBusinessHistory,Stockholm,Sweden DominiqueGrisard CenterforGenderStudies,UniversityofBasel,Switzerland Charlotte Nicklas College of Arts and Humanities, University of Brighton, UnitedKingdom Margaret Maile Petty School of Design, Creative Industries Faculty, Queensland UniversityofTechnology,Brisbane,Queensland,Australia MelissaRenn HarvardBusinessSchool,Boston,MA,USA MichaelRossi DepartmentofHistory,TheUniversityofChicago,Chicago,IL,USA UweSpiekermann InstituteforEconomic&SocialHistory,UniversityofGöttingen, Göttingen,Germany vii L F IST OF IGURES Fig.1.1 Magazineadvertisement,1913,forDiamondDyes,madeby Wells&RichardsonCo.,Burlington,Vermont 4 Fig.1.2 AdvertisementinFranceforDUCOautomobilelacquer,1927 6 Fig.1.3 AdvertisementforWhiteMountainRefrigerators“incolorsto matchthemodernkitchen,”1927 8 Fig.1.4 NufashondGartersadvertisement,1925 9 Fig.1.5 Cartoonfrom1885criticizingthecolorfulbutunhealthy,even dangerous,substancesinacandystore’swares 24 Fig.2.1 MarketsharesofdyesinGermanyintermsoftheirmonetary value,ca.1872–1912 41 Fig.2.2 MarketsharesofdyesinGermanyintermsofthequantityof textilesdyed,ca.1872–1912 41 Fig.2.3 Averagecostofdyestuffstocolorametrictonoftextilesin Germany,ca.1872–1912(marks,logarithmicscale) 42 Fig.2.4 Growthinthenumberofdyestuffs,1820–1930 43 Fig.3.1 ColorchartsbasedonaselectionofMiltonBradley’scolored papers(“pure”and“broken”spectrums) 60 Fig.3.2 TheMiltonBradleycolorwheel,whichteachersandstudentsused tomixcolors 63 Fig.3.3 Colordisks,whichwereplacedonthecolorwheelandspun duringclassroomexercisesinmixingandanalyzingcolors 64 Fig.3.4 StudentstakingtheBradleycolorcoursepracticedcolorharmo- niesandcontrastsbycreatingchromaticpatternsinpaperand parquetrybasedontheseforms 69 Fig.4.1 Oneartist’srenderingoftransnationalpinkgirlculture:ThePink Project—TessandHerPinkandPurpleThings,Lightjetprint, 2006,byJeongMeeYoon 78 Fig.4.2 Exampleofmasculinebourgeoisfashionattheturnofthe century—thedarksuit 81 Fig.4.3 Exampleofaboyinpinkintheearlynineteenthcentury:Young BoywithWhip,anonymous,AmericanSchool,ca.1840,oilon canvas 85 ix x LISTOFFIGURES Fig.4.4 MamieEisenhowerinherfavoritecolor,oiloncanvasbyThomas EdgarStevens,1959 86 Fig.4.5 Counteringfeminizedpinkconsumerculture:“Thereismore thanonewaytobeagirl...” 89 Fig.5.1 Page(detail)fromnotebookkeptbycoloristatJohnWilkinson andCo 103 Fig.5.2 Fashionplatefrom1864showingthePattiDress 104 Fig.6.1 Helmholtz’sdiagramindicatingtheresponsivenessofdifferent nerve“fibrils”intheretinatored(1),green(2),andblue(3)light 120 Fig.6.2 Illustrationdepictingthedesignandarrangementofcolored- paperdisksformeasuringcolorsensation 122 Fig.6.3 Rood’sternarydiagramdepictingtherelativepositionsofcolor mixturesbasedonred,green,andblueprimaries 123 Fig.7.1 TherailroadcarthathousedthefirstTechnicolorlab 135 Fig.7.2 ArrangementofopticalsystemandfilmsinJ.ArthurBall’sthree- colorcamera 138 Fig.7.3 Technicolorcameraencasedinasound-dampeningblimp,usedin thefilmingofTheWizardofOz 139 Fig.8.1 Genderedbefore-and-afterillustrationsofthenewlightingpossi- bilitiespromotedinpopularandtrademedia 156 Fig.8.2 SamplepagesfromG.E.promotionalmaterialsfeaturinglighting recommendationsforwomen’sandmen’sgroomingrituals 157 Fig.8.3 AdvertisementforColoramiclightbulbsbyGeneralElectric, 1957 160 Fig.10.1 SeasonalcolorforecastbyMargaretHaydenRorkeforU.S. woolenmills,oneofmanybranchesoftheAmericanfashiontrade forwhichsheconsulted 195 Fig.10.2 ColorcardfromRorke’sfall1926woolensforecast 196 Fig.10.3 MagazineadvertisementforNashautomobiles,1933,proudly showingthecompany’sbrightlylit,varicoloredcontributionto theCenturyofProgressInternationalExhibitioninChicago,the world’sfairwhosecoloringFaberBirrenfoundsogarishandin needofordering 200 Fig.10.4 SeasonalcolorforecastbytheBritishColorCouncil,whichemu- latedtheTextileColorCardAssociation’spractice 206 Fig.10.5 Dressingamanfromheadtotoe 207 Fig.11.1 NordicFashionCouncil,FashionForecastforShoesandLeather, Fall1954(frontcover) 233 Fig.11.2 Modeuropcolorcard,Spring/Summer,1979 238
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