Bread Baking: An Artisan's Perspective

290 Pages·2009·11.065 MB·English

by  Daniel T. Dimuzio

bread baking
An Artisan’s Perspective
Daniel T. DiMuzio
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
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bread baking
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bread baking
An Artisan’s Perspective
Daniel T. DiMuzio
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
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Photography on pp. iii, 48, 58, 59, 81, 83–90, 114, 115, 149, 150, color insert following p. 50: pp. 2–5,
7, 8, color insert following p. 114: p. 5 (bottom) by Hilary Hunt Amaro
Photography on pp. 15, 42, 43, 64, 70, 79, 91–95, 106, 123, 124, 132, 175, 191, 192, color insert follow-
ing p. 50: pp. 1, 6, color insert following p. 114: pp. 1–4, 5 (top), 7, 8 by Daniel T. DiMuzio
(cid:1)(cid:1)
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Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data:
DiMuzio, Daniel T.
Bread baking: an artisan’s perspective / Daniel T. DiMuzio.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references.
ISBN 978-0-470-13882-3 (cloth)
1. Bread. 2. Cookery (Bread) I. Title.
TX769.D56 2009
641.8'15—dc22
2008021437
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
Preface ix
1
The History of Bread Making 1
A Brief History of Bread Making 2
Bread’s Impact on Basic Survival 2
A Cornerstone of Civilization 2
How Bread Began 3
Bread: An Accidental Creation 3
Mechanized Bread Making 6
Direct Mixing Method 7
World War II and Its Aftermath 7
The Intensive Mix Method 8
Rescue Arrives —The Improved Mix Method 9
2
Renewed Interest in Great Bread 11
Ingredients and Their Effects 13
Ingredients for Baking Bread 14
The Most Important Ingredient: Flour 14
Wheat Dough Can Infl ate 15
The Wheat Berry 15
Wheat Classifi cation 16
Other Grains 18
Water 19
Salt 20
Yeast 21
Sweeteners 23
Fats and Oils 23
Milk Products 24
Eggs 24
Nuts, Seeds, Grains, and Dried Fruits 25
v
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vi CONTENTS
Using Whole Grains 25
3
Herbs and Spices 27
Basic Baker’s Percentage (Baker’s Math) 31
An International Language for Bakers 32
It’s All in the Percentages 32
Changing Batch Sizes 35
Find the Total Flour Weight: Using the Percentage Sum 36
Discrepancies in Batch Size 38
4
When You Have Two or More Flours 38
Mixing Methods 41
The First 10,000 Years: Hand Mixing 42
Two Stages in the Dough Mixing Process 42
Dough Transformation During Mixing 43
Precursors to Mechanized Mixing 43
Mechanization Arrives: The Short Mix Method 44
Intensive Mix Method 44
The Improved Mix Method 47
Is There a Best Mixing Method? 47
5
Special Circumstances or Exceptions 50
Fermentation 61
Fermentation: A Process of Transformation 62
Does Fermentation Create or Destroy? 62
Fermentation of Bread Dough 63
Yeast Fermentation: Produces Carbon Dioxide and Alcohol 64
Bacterial Fermentation: Produces Organic Acids 65
Nonliving Organic Substances: Esters and Enzymes 66
Manipulating Fermentation: Time, Temperature, and Hydration 67
Pre-Ferments: How to Shorten Fermentation Time
While Increasing Strength and Flavor 68
6
Natural Pre-Ferments 70
Division and Shaping of Loaves and Rolls 77
Giving Form to Dough 78
The First Step: Division 78
Shaping Loaves and Rolls 82
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CONTENTS vii
7
Proofi ng and Retarding 105
Proofi ng Defi ned 106
Judging the Readiness of Proofed Loaves 106
Proofi ng versus Bulk Fermentation 107
Collapse of Overproofed Dough 107
Gas Production in Successful Proofi ng 107
Changing the Temperature of Dough 108
Yeast Quantity in Dough 110
The Degradation of Dough Structure 110
Retarding Loaves of Bread 111
Dough Degradation in Retarding 113
Specialized Equipment for Proofi ng and Retarding
8
Loaves of Bread 113
Baking 121
Baking Transforms Raw Dough 122
Recognizing When Loaves Are Ready to Be Baked 122
Scoring Loaves 122
Baking Temperature 125
Using Steam 127
How to Judge the Doneness of Bread 130
9
The Importance of Cooling Bread after Baking 131
Rich and Laminated Doughs 137
The Effects Ingredients Have on Dough 138
Strategies for Turning Lean Dough into Rich Dough 139
Why Not Just Add the Fat to the Dough? 139
Lamination Defi ned 140
The Lamination Process 142
Differences between Croissant Dough and Danish Dough 148
Some Caveats in Working with Laminated Dough Products 149
10
Shaping Croissants and Danish 149
Creating Dough Formulas 155
Formulation: How Can We Design Our Own Reliable
Bread Dough? 156
Choose Your Ingredients 157
Create a Formula, Not Just a Recipe 159
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viii CONTENTS
Advanced Topic #1: Flour Composition and
Milling Technology 173
Elements of the Wheat Endosperm 173
The Milling Process 178
Advanced Topic #2: Advanced Baker’s
Percentage 181
Using Pre-Ferments in Formula Creation 181
Which Pre-Ferment Should You Use? 183
Advanced Topic #3: Controlling Fermentation:
Living and Nonliving Players 185
Controlling Yeast Activity 185
Controlling Bacterial Activity 186
Enzymes: Amylase and Protease 187
Advanced Topic #4: Decorative Dough Pieces 189
Working with Decorative Dough 189
Types of Decorative Dough 189
Appendix: Formulas 193
Glossary 237
Bibliography 247
Index 249
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