Bon Appetit - September 2022

92 Pages·2022·123.8 MB·English

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S e p t e m b e r
VOLUME 67 NUMBER 7
IT’S GETTING
HOT IN HERE.
P. 83
13 32 38 50 72 88
The Buy Dish Decoded Holiday Special The Best Bits The Most Dream Dinner
The piece of At Lady Wong, Celebrate Rosh Take the intimidation Wonderful Time Party
equipment every a Southeast Asian Hashanah with food out of deglazing of the Year Actor Regina Hall
at-home bread pastry shop in historian Michael W. with recipes that Bask in the glory of is taking her dinner
baker needs. New York City, this Twitty’s apple butter make cleanup easier late-summer produce party to the great
tortoise-shaped rice kugel. and supper tastier. with seven recipes outdoors and S.
BY MACKENZIE CHUNG E
N
FEGAN dessert is selling BY RACHEL GURJAR featuring the best of putting spirituality O
like hot cakes. 40 the season. front and center. RL J
16 Pizza for the 58 EA
BY KATE KASSIN RECIPES BY CHRISTINA BY DAWN DAVIS P
Family Meal People Pasta Makes CHAEY, RACHEL BY
Grab your frying 34 L.A.’s Brandoni Perfect GURJAR, ZAYNAB ISSA, NG
pans, we’re Kitchen Upgrade Pepperoni is hosting Classic pasta SARAH JAMPEL, SHILPA IN EVERY ISSUE YLI
making cutlets! Designers Nate a pizza party and recipes, remixed. USKOKOVIC, AND 8 editor’s letter D ST
Berkus and Jeremiah everyone’s invited. BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC KENDRA VACULIN 87 recipe index OO
26 Brent are redesigning BY ELYSE INAMINE 83 A. F
The Getaway kitchens with family RECIPES BY 66 Basically PAT
Chef and longtime life (and budgeting!) BRANDON GRAY The Hunt ZA
resident Mehdi in mind. Deep in the forests Spice up your ON THE COVER SA
sBhraurneest -hBise gnukirditel y BY SAM COCHRAN owfr iNteer wR aMcheexilc Loe,v in ltiofe h woti tphe tphipse grsu.i de TForemsha tPoaesst a(f oWr irtehc Bipuett,e sreeed PH BY I
p. 60). Photograph by A
to Montreal. confronts hesitations BY ALIZA ABARBANEL Vanessa Granda. Food GR
O
AS TOLD TO MIA around harvesting styling by Pearl Jones. Prop OT
LEIMKUHLER meat herself. styling by Marina Bevilacqua. PH
YOU PUT
PUMPKIN
CARVINGS
IN RAVIOLI,
NOT THE
TRASH.

S A V O R E V E R Y M I L E .
V I S I T W A G O N E E R . C O M
Editor in Chief
DAWN DAVIS
Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA Food Director CHRIS MOROCCO Deputy Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN
Creative Director ARSH RAZIUDDIN Director of Editorial Operations NICK TRAVERSE
Editorial Design Test Kitchen
Editorial Director SERENA DAI Design Director CAROLINE NEWTON Deputy Food Editor HANA ASBRINK
Digital Director SASHA LEVINE Art Director HAZEL ZAVALA Senior Food Editor CHRISTINA CHAEY
Culture Editor HILARY CADIGAN Senior Designer MEGAN TATEM Food Editor SHILPA USKOKOVIC
Senior Editor, Cooking EMMA LAPERRUQUE Art Assistant JULIA DUARTE Associate Food Editors RACHEL GURJAR, ZAYNAB ISSA,
Restaurant Editor ELAZAR SONTAG KENDRA VACULIN
Lifestyle Editor KAREN YUAN Photography Test Kitchen Coordinator INES ANGUIANO
Editor, Cooking & SEO JOE SEVIER Visuals Director JOSÉ GINARTE Recipe Editors LIESEL DAVIS, JONATHAN MILDER
Editor ALI FRANCIS Visuals Editor GRAYLEN GATEWOOD
Associate Editor CHALA TYSON TSHITUNDU Associate Visuals Editor MARC WILLIAMS Video
Associate Editor, Cooking ANTARA SINHA Associate Staff Photographer ISA ZAPATA
Head of Digital Video JUNE KIM
Digital Operations Associate NICO AVALLE
Executive Producer LAUREN BRENNER
Editorial Operations Associate KATE KASSIN Production, Copy, & Research
Director of Programming JONATHAN WISE
Digital Production Assistant LI GOLDSTEIN Production Managers MATT CARSON, KATE FENOGLIO Directors of Creative Development DAN SIEGEL,
Recipe Production Assistant MEHREEN KARIM Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON MARIA PAZ MENDEZ HODES
Assistant to the Editor in Chief NINA MOSKOWITZ Copy Manager BRIAN CARROLL Associate Director of Creative Development, Social & Visuals
Entertainment Director CAITLIN BRODY Research Director RYAN HARRINGTON ADAM MOUSSA
Contributing Editors JENNIFER HOPE CHOI, ELYSE INAMINE, Contributing Research Editor MARISSA WOLKENBERG Director of Content ALI INGLESE
AMANDA SHAPIRO, AMIEL STANEK
Research Fellow H CONLEY Culinary Director KELLY JANKE
Associate Director, Commerce EMILY JOHNSON Programming Manager JILLIAN MATT
Senior Commerce Editor MACKENZIE CHUNG FEGAN Social & Audience Development Directors CORY CAVIN, MATT HUNZIKER, CHRIS PRINCIPE
Associate Commerce Editor MEGAN WAHN Global Director of Audience Development, Analytics, & Social Media Producers NESS KLEINO, PARISA KOSARI,
Commerce Writer TIFFANY HOPKINS MATT DOMINO TYRE NOBLES, TOMMY WERNER
Associate Director, Social Media URMILA RAMAKRISHNAN
Contributing Editor Senior Manager, Social Media ESRA EROL
MARCUS SAMUELSSON Associate Manager, Social Media OLIVIA QUINTANA
Associate Analytics Director CLARA CHEN
Associate Manager, Audience Development JESSIE FORSTMANN
Chief Business Officer
JENNIFER MORMILE
Head of Marketing DEBRA HARRIS VP, Finance SYLVIA CHAN
Senior Business Director JENNIFER CRESCITELLI Director, Brand Marketing LESLIE YEH Associate, Brand Marketing MEGHAN SWIFT
HEADS OF SALES
Fashion & Luxury SUSAN CAPPA CPG & Vice JEFF BARISH Auto & Media/Entertainment BILL MULVIHILL
Business/Finance/Technology DOUG GRINSPAN Health & Beauty CARRIE MOORE Home & Travel BETH LUSKO-GUNDERMAN
VP, Revenue–Midwest PAMELA QUANDT VP, Revenue–San Francisco DEVON ROTHWELL VP, Enterprise Sales–Los Angeles DAN WEINER
CREATIVE
Art Director STEPHANIE OLSEN RABINOWITZ Associate Art Director MIRIAM ROSS
Executive Producer LLOYD D’SOUZA Senior Producer JULIE SULLIVAN Director of Creative Content Production DANA KRAVIS
PUBLIC RELATIONS
Vice President, Communications ERIN KAPLAN Public Relations Manager MADELINE WALKER
PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST WORLDWIDE EDITIONS PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE Condé Nast is a global media company producing
Chief Executive Officer ROGER LYNCH France: AD, AD Collector, GQ, Vanity Fair, Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, GQ, Vogue premium content with a footprint of more than
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Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue, Wired Contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit,
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Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
United Kingdom: London: HQ, Condé Nast
GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired
IN THE UNITED STATES College of Fashion and Design, Vogue Business;
Chief Business Officer, Britain: Condé Nast Johansens, Condé Nast Poland: Glamour, Vogue
U.S. Advertising Revenue and Global Video Sales Traveller, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto CONDÉ NAST IS
CRAIG KOSTELIC Garden, Tatler, The World of Interiors, Romania: Glamour COMMITTED TO GLOBAL
Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired Scandinavia: Vogue ENVIRONMENTAL
United States: Allure, Architectural Digest, Serbia: La Cucina Italiana SUSTAINABILITY.
Ars Technica, basically, Bon Appétit, Clever, Singapore: Vogue
Condé Nast Traveler, epicurious, Glamour, GQ,
South Africa: Glamour, GQ, GQ Style,
GQ Style, healthyish, HIVE, La Cucina Italiana,
House & Garden
LOVE, Pitchfork, Self, Teen Vogue, them., The
Thailand: GQ, Vogue
New Yorker, The Scene, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired
The Netherlands: Vogue, Vogue Living
Turkey: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Restaurant Istanbul
Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Man
6 – SEPTEMBER 2022
Architect. Mentor. Beekeeper.
A life well planned allows you to
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teenager—your life is just as unique. Backed by sophisticated resources and a team of specialists
in every field, a Raymond James financial advisor can help you plan for the dreams you have, the
way you care for those you love and how you choose to give back. So you can live your life.
E d i tor s L e t t er
’
A sweet excuse to go overboard
at the farmers market
P. 79
Pasta is a perennial favorite among our readers,
so we turned to Shilpa Uskokovic in our test
kitchen to develop dishes that will inspire dinner
party menus and midweek family suppers (“Pasta
Makes Perfect,” page 58). We know most people
already have their own tried-and-true noodle
recipes, but I promise Shilpa’s are worth giving a
spin. Take the Fresh Pasta With Buttered Tomatoes;
the sauce is so simple that we used it as an excuse
to ask you to try making your own pappardelle.
We know you’ll love it.
For our feature “Pizza for the People” (page
40), we turned to Brandon Gray, a.k.a. Brandoni
Pepperoni. Perhaps as interesting as the recipes
Gray has developed is the path he took to be-
coming one of Los Angeles’s most knowledgeable
pizza gurus.
Recipes are our bread and butter—pun
intended. But I also love when our experts go
beyond sharing ingredients and instructions to
impart their knowledge of techniques. This
month we’re tackling the art of deglazing in “The
Best Bits” (page 50). If you’re envious of people
who can harness all that goodness stuck at the
bottom of the skillet, you, like me, will keep turn-
ing back to these tips on deglazing and the five
dishes that call for the process, including some veg-
Craving Comfort etarian options.
Until next month, when we get to share the new H.
E
Y
restaurants that have caught our eye in our highly E
NI
anticipated Best New Restaurants Issue. A
H
P
and E
THIS IS TECHNICALLY OUR ODE TO LATE SUMMER INTO FALL ST
Y
it might as well be called the comfort issue. We’re leaning in on B
G
N
foods that evoke coziness and joy, particularly pasta, pizza, and YLI
T
all that colorful bounty still at the farmers markets. Think dark P S
O
jewel-toned blackberries, plums, and eggplants on one end of the DAWN DAVIS PR
editor in chief M.
spectrum and bright zucchini, tomatoes, and peppers on the other. KI
@bonappetitdawn on instagram DY
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Y J
B
G
N
YLI
T
S
D
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O
WHAT I promise I’m not saying this because Y. F
I’m biased (though I am), but I am always WA
I’M LOVING so excited to tune into Bon Appétit’s video TT
E
series On the Line, which goes behind A P
The BA content C
the scenes at some of the country’s most SI
I watch even when S
exciting restaurants—our kind of show. E
I’m not at work Y J
If you love dining, scan the QR code to B
H
see how it’s done at Olmsted, Rezdôra, P
A
R
and Casa Ora. You’ll be hooked! G
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P
8 – SEPTEMBER 2022