Nka 5 RAMEZ ELIAS IN MEMORIAM 19582016 JOURNAL OF CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN ART FOUNDED 1994 6 FROM THE EDITORS Cheryl Finley and Deborah Willis FOUNDING PUBLISHER Okwui Enwezor 8 THE SLAVE AT THE LOUVRE AN INVISIBLE HUMANITY EDITORS Françoise Vergès Okwui Enwezor Salah M. Hassan 14 WHO’S ZOOMIN’ WHO? Chika Okeke-Agulu THE EYES OF DONYALE LUNA ASSOCIATE EDITORS Richard J. Powell Sarah Adams • Carl Hazelwood • Nancy Hynes Derek Conrad Murray • Sunanda Sanyal CONTENTS CONSULTING EDITORS Rory Bester • Isolde Brielmaier • Coco Fusco NUMBER 38–39, 2016 Kendell Geers • Michael Godby • Elizabeth Harney Thomas Mulcaire • O. Donald Odita • Gilane Tawadros Frank Ugiomoh 22 DEFACING THE GAZE MANAGING EDITOR AND REIMAGINING THE Clare Ulrich BLACK BODY GRAPHIC DESIGN CONTEMPORARY CARIBBEAN WOMEN Marshall Hopkins ARTISTS Michelle Stephens ADVISORY BOARD Norbert Aas • Florence Alexis • Rashid Diab 32 BLACK, QUEER, DANDY Manthia Diawara • Elsabet Giorgis • Freida High THE BEAUTY WITHOUT WHOM dele jegede • Kellie Jones • Sandra Klopper WE CANNOT LIVE David Koloane • Bongi Dhlomo Mautloa Monica L. Miller Gerardo Mosquera • Helen Evans Ramsaran Ibrahim El Salahi • Janet Stanley • Obiora Udechukwu Gavin Younge • Octavio Zaya 40 POSING THE BLACK PAINTER KERRY JAMES MARSHALL’S PORTRAITS OF Cover: Barkley L. Hendricks, Photo Bloke, 2016. Oil and acrylic on linen, 72 x ARTISTS’ SELFPORTRAITS 48 in. Courtesy the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York. © Barkley L. Peter Erickson Hendricks 52 AU NÈGRE JOYEUX Nka wishes to acknowledge support for the publication of the journal EVERYDAY ANTIBLACKNESS through generous grants from the Andy Warhol Foundation for the GUISED AS PUBLIC ART Visual Arts, the Prince Claus Fund for Culture and Development, The Hague, Netherlands, and David Hammons. Trica Keaton Andy Warhol Foundation 60 SAGA BWOYS AND RUDE BWOYS MIGRATION, GROOMING, AND DANDYISM Michael McMillan Nka is published by Duke University Press on behalf of Nka Publications. 70 PORTRAITS IN BLACK 152 JAMES BARNOR STYLING, SPACE, AND SELF IN THE EVER YOUNG, NEVER SLEEP WORK OF BARKLEY L. HENDRICKS AND Renée Mussai ELIZABETH COLOMBA Anna Arabindan-Kesson 162 MAKING SPACE, CHANGING SPACE 80 POSTPOST BLACK PEOPLE AND NEW MUSEUMS BLACK? Ngaire Blankenberg Nana Adusei-Poku 168 OTA BENGA IN THE ARCHIVES 90 CONFESSIONS OF UNMAKING MYTHS, MAPPING RESISTANCE A BLACK FEMINIST ACADEMIC IN THE MARGINS OF HISTORY Pamela Newkirk PORNOGRAPHER Mireille Miller-Young 174 BUST BRAWL THE BATTLE OVER A BLACK BRONZE 96 A PICTURE’S WORTH PRINCE TOWARD THEORIZING A BLACK/QUEER Yemane I. Demissie GAZE IN THE INTERNET “PORNUTOPIA” Jafari Sinclaire Allen 182 BENDING HISTORY Maaza Mengiste 102 ICONS BROUGHT FORWARD 186 DIFFERENT, BUT NOT ABNORMAL RENÉE COX’S QUEEN “OUT” IN AFRICA NANNY OF THE Lyle Ashton Harris MAROONS Kimberli Gant 196 RECLAIMING HISTORY A VISUAL ESSAY 110 THE UNNAMED BODY Elizabeth Colomba ENCOUNTERING, COMMODIFYING, AND CODIFYING THE IMAGE OF 202 FROM BODY TO DISEMBODIMENT THE BLACK FEMALE Jean-Ulrick Désert Alissandra Cummins and Allison Thompson 210 BLACK PRESENCE IN 122 NO MORE “POISONOUS, FRANCE DISRESPECTFUL, AND SKEWED Lewis Watts IMAGES OF BLACK PEOPLE” BARBARA WALKER’S LOUDER THAN WORDS REVIEWS Celeste-Marie Bernier 134 HANK WILLIS THOMAS 218 READING BASQUIAT A NECESSARY CAUTION EXPLORING AMBIVALENCE IN Kerr Houston AMERICAN ART 142 NO BODY’S PERFECT 220 A NEW REPUBLIC Kanitra Fletcher KEHINDE WILEY RAMEZ ELIAS In Memoriam (1958–2016) t is with deep sorrow that we, the editors of Nka: I Journal of Contemporary African Art, mourn the death of Ramez Elias, who passed away on Thursday, April 21, 2016, in Paris, France. Ramez was the designer of Nka for the last sixteen years. A remarkably talented artist, Ramez has left an indelible mark on the design of Nka, shaping its character, not only as a leading journal, but also as an elegant one in the field of contemporary and African and African diaspora art. Ramez was not just a brilliant designer; he was a dear friend. He was generous, kind-hearted, and a very caring human being. Words fail to convey our loss and sadness. But here at Nka, we shall continue to build on the design vision he established and that has taken us this far. Ramez studied at the American University in Cairo before moving to Ithaca, where he lived beginning in 1994. He was a multitalented and creative individual. In addition to being a designer, he was also a gifted theater actor who performed with groups such as Al Warsha, an experimental theater company based in Cairo, Egypt. Ramez hailed from a prominent Egyptian family that played a pioneering role in the rise of the independent publishing industry in Egypt since the early part of the twentieth century. His grandfather, Elias Anton Elias, a well-known modernist intellectual and the author of one of the first Arabic-English dic- tionaries in Egypt, founded in 1913 the Elias Modern Publishing House, which has contributed tremen- dously to publishing in the fields of literature, arts, and children’s books. Our sincere condolences to our dear friend Natalie Melas, Ramez’s wife; his brother, Nadim Elias, and his wife, Laura Elias; his nephews, Sammy and Karim; his niece, Nada El Omari; his brother-in-law, Majdi El Omari; and the extended family and friends in Egypt and Ithaca, New York. Rest in peace, Ramez. Your memory and the beauty you brought to our lives will forever stay with us and guide us to better horizons. Okwui Enwezor Chika Okeke-Agulu Salah M. Hassan Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016 Nka • 5 DOI # 10.1215/10757163-3777031 © 2016 by Nka Publications From the Editors Diakhaté, and Jaira Placide (New York University, Institute of African American Affairs); Awam Ampka (New York University, Tisch School of the BLACK PORTRAITURE[S] Arts, Department of Social and Cultural Analysis); Thelma Golden (The Studio Museum in Harlem); In Bamako we say, “I ka nye tan,” which, in English, Jean-Paul Colleyn (L’École des hautes études en means “You look well,” but, in fact, it means, “You sciences sociales, Centre d’études Africaines); and look beautiful like that.” Anne-Christine Taylor-Descola, Anna Laban, and Seydou Keita Christine Barthe (Musée du quai Branly). The essays offered in this special issue of Nka ow the black body has been imaged in the were gathered from that historic meeting in Paris H West has always been a rich site for global from January 17 to 20, 2013, and offer the most examination and contestation. The represen- cutting-edge perspectives on the production and tation and depiction of black peoples often has been skill of black self-representation, desire, and the governed by prevailing attitudes about race and sex- exchange of the gaze from the nineteenth century to uality. From the ubiquitous Renaissance paintings the present day in fashion, film, art, and the archive. that picture black people as the sublime backdrop Artists, historians, designers, writers, and image or purposely attracting the lustful gaze of the other, makers from around the world gathered in Paris to the 2012 French Elle magazine’s article on First to discuss the state of the black portrait circulating Lady Michelle Obama’s sense of style finally filtering in the present and in the past. They asked: How are down to the fashion-strapped black masses, to the these images—both positive and negative—exposed 2012 Italian Vogue special issue on African fashion, to define, replicate, and transform the black body? there is evidence that discussion of the black body Why and how does the black body become a pur- remains relevant. How the black body is displayed chasable, global marketplace, and what are its lega- and viewed changes with each generation, con- cies? In what visual and nonvisual spaces do these stantly allowing young diasporic innovators from images and instances either take permanent resi- the Americas, Europe, Africa, and the Caribbean dence, reemerge, recycle, or simply become illegi- to add their own ideas about reinvention and ble? How can performing blackness be liberating for self-representation. To be sure, the universality both the performer and the audience? Can the black of black culture and its global presence has played body be deracialized to emphasize cultural group- a leading role in mainstream sports, music, perfor- ings, encouraging appropriation and varied perfor- mance, fashion, and visual arts, with implications mances across racial lines? Finally, and importantly, worthy of much critique. what are the responses and implications? Paris, an internationally key and highly These are some of the questions that were posed influential Western space in all things concerning over the four-day conference held at noteworthy the visual arts and modernity, was the perfect venues across the snowy city of Paris, including stage for Black Portraiture[s]: The Black Body L’École des Beaux-Arts, the Université de Paris in the West, the fifth in the series of visual art 7, and the musée du quai Branly, where a riveting conferences organized by Harvard University film series was held on the last day. Discussions and New York University since 2004 and jointly also focused on aesthetics, vernacular style, fashion, presented in 2013 with L’École des hautes études en and ethnography in describing a sense of place and sciences sociales (the School for Advanced Studies identity. Day after day, participants and presenters in the Social Sciences), musée du quai Branly, and conducted diverse visual readings of the notion of Cornell University. We were honored to participate the black portrait while challenging conventional as conference organizers with professionals perspectives on identity, beauty, cosmopolitanism, representing a wide range of disciplines. They and community in Africa and its diaspora. included Henry Louis Gates Jr. (Harvard University, Through a series of panels, films, and read- W. E. B. Du Bois Institute); Manthia Diawara, Lydie ings, Black Portraiture[s] included a wide range of 6 • Nka Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016 DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641612 © 2016 by Nka Publications discussions relating to the experiences of a people contemporary black portraiture. All in all, we believe who have been caricatured through much of visual that the essays presented in Black Portraiture[s] history, particularly in nineteenth-century anthro- offer an important collective story told through pological and colonial photography. Presenters multiple voices. also explored how African men and women used What makes this collection of essays so exciting photography, and later environmental portraiture, and critical is its broad focus on the black portrait film, fashion, art, and performance, to experiment and the important aesthetic and ideological issues it with varied ideas of themselves and to ultimately continues to engage. Drawing on the ideas and works honor how they see themselves and wish to be seen of leading and emerging writers of our time while by others. For example, they demonstrated how including the discussions of photographers, schol- some photographers, often in collaboration with ars, artists, curators, and filmmakers of the African their subjects, created idealized poses, while others diaspora, the Black Portraiture[s] conference clearly displayed active confidence through style and dress. revolved around collaboration, building upon the Scholars, artists, and writers alike unabashedly strengths of each of the organizing institutions as proved how these individuals sought to celebrate well as the curators, writers, artists, filmmakers, and their beauty and style, whether in Senegal, France, photographers whose visualization of the African Jamaica, New York, or all around the world. diaspora has guided these crucial discussions about As in the past, photographs and film today are art and representation. By featuring some of the considered visual testimony of a collective memory. most extraordinary writers, historians, artists, and Even now, race and power guide our visual reading theorists working today, we hope this special issue of these images, which both entice and incite. What of Nka, based on the conference, enables readers to we imagine and know about these subjects through see that the image remains ever powerful in an age the visual image is mediated through the insight of where black lives matter. curators, historians, writers, poets, photographers, filmmakers, and visual artists and is framed within Cheryl Finley is an associate professor and director the experience of the idealized portrait, whether of visual studies in the Department of the History of in art, fashion, film, or documentary photography. Art at Cornell University. Deborah Willis is profes- “Having a portrait taken by [the well-known Malian sor and chair of the Department of Photography and photographer] Seydou Keita . . . signified that the Imaging at New York University’s Tisch School of the sitter was modern,” according to Manthia Diawara. Arts. “To go before Keita’s lens is to pass the test of modernity, to be transformed as an urbane subject Notes even if one has no power in the market or at the 1 Manthia Diawara, “Talk of the Town,” Artforum 36 (February 1998): 67. train station.”1 Finley/Willis Thus, African photographers today are recon- structing their experiences of life by capturing moments through visual testimony. Writers and curators today are framing exhibitions in novel ways in urban spaces as well as in popular museum settings. By including a discussion of fashion, we continue to bring international attention to con- temporary designers and photographers and bring to light the social and aesthetic impact their work has made in defining this art form. Some authors use theoretical and analytical tools of art history and film studies, while others mine the wealth of popular imagery to demonstrate the complexity found in mapping and reading both historical and Finley and Willis Nka • 7 THE SLAVE AT THE LOUVRE AN INVISIBLE HUMANITY Françoise Vergès n 2012, for the Paris Triennial, I organized a I program called “The Slave at the Louvre: An Invisible Humanity,” hosting guided visits to look for the ghosts of slaves in the Louvre. Built in 1793, the museum collects work dating through 1848 (everything post-1848 being housed in the Musée d’Orsay). These two dates carry particular resonance for the history of slavery in the French colonies. On August 29, 1793, following the 1791 slaves’ insurrection, the French colony of Saint- Domingue abolished slavery, and on April 27, 1848, slavery was finally abolished in all of the French colonies. In May 1802 Napoleon Bonaparte rejected the decree of February 4, 1794, abolishing slavery in French colonies, and reinstated slavery. France is the only European country to have abolished slav- ery twice. It was thus interesting to visit the Louvre, whose collection is framed between these two dates, to see how modern slavery has been represented, or not. 8 • Nka Journal of Contemporary African Art • 38–39 • November 2016 DOI 10.1215/10757163-3641623 © 2016 by Nka Publications Jan Steen (1626–79), La Mauvaise compagnie (Wicked Company). Oil on wood, 0.414 x 0.655 m. Courtesy Musée du Louvre. © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée du Louvre). Photo: Adrien Didierjean Vergès Nka • 9