'Birding Africa''s basement - the Cape to the Kalahari'

12 Pages·1999·9.7 MB·

by  Keith Barnes

—
basement—
Birding Africa’s
the Cape to the Kalahari
Keith Barnes
Part I—Th—e Cape of Good Hope — longmass ofsandstone juts out intoone ofthe most
CapeTown arguablyAfrica’smostbeautifulcity isa hostile oceans in the world, the southern Atlantic
phenomenalbasefromwhichtobirdSouthAfrica.Two thisistheCapePeninsula. Thisrouteshouldtakeone
weeksinthevicinityofthecitycouldyieldover400species, day, although it has been broken up into various
including47 ofthe country's 58 endemics and near- subsectionsshouldonechoosetoproceedatamore
endemics,and126ofsouthernAfrica’s180endemics, leisurely pace.
makingitanindispensabledestinationforanyoneinter- Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
estedinthecontinent'sbirds.Thisarticleoutlinesthebest
Thebestplacetobeginistheworld-renownedKirstenbosch
birdingspotsandroutes,specificallytargetingendemics, BotanicalGardensonthehindridgeofTableMountain.
bothSouthandsouthernAfrican.Theamountoftime
Ideallysituatedclosetotown,onewillberewardedby
requiredtobirdeachrouteissuggestedandthebirding, spendingaslittleasonehourinthegardens.Togetthere
sceneryandgeneraltourismfeaturesareallrated.Pricesin fromtown,takeEasternBoulevard(M3)andproceed
Rand(R)arequoted.Atthetimeofwriting(April1999)
alongUnionAvenue.AttheRhodesDriveintersection,c
USS1=R6.3,withtheRandfallingconstantly. 2kmbeyondthered-roofeduniversity,turnright.The
Getting around gardens are a further 2 km along Rhodes Drive and
BirdingaroundCapeTownbypublictransportispossible, are well signposted. Several fynbos specialities can
butexceptionallydifficult. Themajorityofthesiteslisted be seen with remarkable ease in the cultivated erica
herearenotaccessibleusingpublictransportandone and protea gardens (ask for a map at the entrance
wouldhavetotakegeneralorspecialisttourstogetthere. point)includingtheskulkingGrassbirdSphenoeacus
Ifyouwrantto“DIY”,thebestoptioniscarhire:themajor afer,energeticOrange-breastedSunbirdNectarinia
agentsattheairportareBudget(27-21-9340216),Avis(27- violaceaandflamboyantCapeSugarbirdPromerops
21-934-0808/88)andHertz(27-21-386-1560),butsome cafer.OtherspecialitiesincludeCapeSiskinSerinus
smalleroperatorswithcheaperoptionsincludeCapeCar totta Cape Bulbul Pycnonotus capensis and the
,
pHierremi(t2t7e-d21i-n6t8o3n-e2i4g4h1b)o,uSarfianrigrsetnattaelss2(74-x241s-6&4m4i-n8i9b5u)saensd, rcaepmeanrskisa.blAylstoamceomCmaopneinFrtahnecoglairdnenFsraanrceoloitnhuesr
AffordableCarHire(27-21-439-1899)- Formoreinforma- South African endemics such as Lesser Double-
tiononguidedtoursinthewesternCapeseeSugarbird’s collared Sunbird Nectarinia chalybea, Karoo
HomePageathttp://home.mweb.co.za/kb/kbames. Prinia Prinia maculosa, Southern Boubou
Laniariusferrugineus, Cape White-eye Zosterops
Accommodation
pallidas CapeSparrowPassermelanurusandGrey-
Accommodation (and price andquality) optionsvary backed,Cisticola Cisticola subruficapillus. Keep
dramaticallyinCapeTown;forafullreviewcheckout your eyes peeled skywards for Mountain (Forest)
Sugarbirds’ Home Page; in particular, two excellent Buzzard Buteo oreophilus, which is regularly seen
andveryaffordable guest houses exist on the penin- along with the more common (and potentially con-
sula that cater principally for birders. Windy Ridge fusing) Steppe BuzzardButeo buteo vulpinus. The
(Tel/Fax:[phone];E-mail:[email protected]) tall avenue ofoak trees near the garden’s entrance,
in Simonstown andAlton Grove (Tel: [phone]; Fax: behindthe conservatory, hasregularlyheldabreed-
785-3456; E-mail: [email protected]; http:// ing pair of SpottedEagle OwlBubo africanus.
www.afton.co.za)inNoordhoekarebothsuperb,run TheAfro-montaneforestpatches,particularlyinSkel-
by birders and come highly recommended. etongorge, support ForestCanarySerinusscotops
,
Cape Peninsula (1-2 days)—The Cape of African DuskyAlseonakMuscicapa adusta. Afri-
Storms! canParadiseFlycatcher Terpsiphoneviridis, Cape
Batis Batis capensis Cinnamon Dove Columba
•Birds:7/10•Scenery10/10•Generaltourismvalue:10/10 ,
Forced from the ocean bed by incomprehensible larvata,RameronPigeonC.arquatixandthenoisy
tectonic forces, a spectacular 1 km high and 70 km Sombre Greenbul Andropadus importunus. The
BirdingAfrica’sbasement—the Capeto theKalahari: Barnes BullABC Vol6No2-121
to the right immediately beyond the Kommetjie
Hotel.Thisisthelastturnbeforetheroadascendsto
asceniccoastaldrivetowardScarborough.Thisroad
skirts the hotel parking area and continues past a
large tidal pool to the wind-buffeted Kommetjie
—
promontory park here. Scan the rocks and tidal
pool for Benguela-endemics such as Hartlaub's
GullLarushaiilaubii.BankPbalacrocoraxneglectus.
Crowned P. coronatus and Cape Cormorants P.
capensis.AfricanBlackOystercatcherHaematopus
moquini and other species such as White-fronted
,
Plover Charadrius marginatus and Whimbrel
GvdssbkdSphenoeacmaferbyIanLewington
Numeniusphaeopus. In winter, the sea should be
main attraction is Knysna Warbler Bradypterus scannedforpelagicspeciesthatoccasionallyventure
sylvaticus, a species more usually heard than seen. inshore. White-chinned Petrel Procellaria
ChancesarebestinSeptember-Novemberwhenitis aequinoctialis, SootyShearwaterPuffinnsgriseus,
most vociferous and responsive, at the top of the Cape Gannet Sula capensis (all year) and South
gorge where the vegetation is sparser. Polar Skua Catharacta maccormicki are regularly
Farther up-slope, the gardens revert to natural seen and it would not be surprising to see a Shy
fynbos vegetation and rocky outcrops, where Cape Diomedea cauta or Black-browed Albatross D.
Siskin,GroundWoodpeckerGeocolaptesolivaceus melanophriseffortlessly dipping below the horizon.
FamiliarChatCercomelafamiliaris,CommonKes-, Winter also brings Antarctic Tern Sterna vittata to
trel Falco tinnunculus, Cape Rock Thrush the roost that regularly gathers in the tidal pool. Sift
MonticolarupestrisandWhite-neckedRavenCorvus through the Swift S. bergiiand SandwichTerns S.
albicollis are common, and overhead watch for sandvicensis and in summer Arctic S. paradisaea
Peregrine Falcon Falcoperegrinus, Alpine Apus andCommo,nTernsS. hintndo insearch ofsome-
A A ,
melba,Black barbatusandLittleSwifts affinis. thing rare. Check the tide tables as more birds roost
Similarspecies canbe foundbytaking the cable car at low tide; weekends should also be avoided as
tothetopofthemountain,whichholdsmorespecies fishermen and boat launching disturbs the roost. If,
offlowering plant than the British Isles. atfirst,youdonotseeallthespeciesyouareseeking,
takeawalknorthalongthebeachasbirdsroostthere
Wildevoelvlei and Kommetjie
also. An early morning walk here may reward the
FromKirstenbosch, head south in the direction ofHout
— vigilantobserverwithaCapeClawlessOtterAonyx
Bay along the M63 which turns into the spectacular
capensis capensis.
ChapmansPeakdriveafterpassingthroughHoutBay.As
this descends into Noordhoek, keep going straight until Cape Point Nature Reserve
youreachSunValley;turnrightattheT-junction;soonyou Continue south along the M65, past Misty Cliffs and
—
reachanintersection turnrightontotheM65(Kommetjie Scarborough,totheCapePointNatureReserve.Forming
Road). Afterc4 kmyou reach an industrial park, with a thesouthernportionofthepeninsula,thisreservecanalso
—
large wetland onyour right this is Wildevoelvlei. For bereachedfromMuizenbergandSimon’sTownviathe
accesstothemarsh,turnintothehousingdevelopmentat M4.Youcanenjoythereserve’ssensationalandidyllic
ImhofPsGift, andparkinRameronAvenue. scenerywhilelookingforadditionalfynbosspecialities,
Someexcellentandunusualbirdsareregularlyseen includingthenumerousOrange-breastedSunbirdand
here, including White-backed Duck Tbalassornis CapeSugarbird, aswellasseabirdsfromthesouth-
leuconotus MaccoaDuckOxyuramaccoa Whiskered westernmostpointinAfrica. Don’tmisstheopportunity
, ,
TernChlidoniashybridus,Black-neckedGrebePodiceps toscanforalbatrossesandtheoccasionalPeregrineFal-
nigricollis,AfricanMarshHarrierCircusranivorusand conattheCapePointlighthouse.Theviewingsitesatthe
Black-crownedNightHeronNycticoraxnycticorax.A pointalsoholdCapeSiskin.OtherspeciesincludeCape
hostofmorecommonwaterfowlalsooccurs.Atthetime Bulbul,SpeckledMousebirdColiusstriatus,FiscalFly-
of writing this wetland was suffering eutrophication catcher Melaenornis silens, Bokmakierie
problemsanditwouldbewisetoobtainmoreinformation Malaconotus zeylonus, Southern Boubou,
aboutitsstatusbeforeplanningavisit. NeddickyCisticolafulvicapillusandKarooPrinia.
LeavingWildevoelvlei,continuesouth-westalong The reserve has attracted many rarities, including a
Kommetjie Road. Once in Kommetjie, take the turn Red-tailed Tropicbird Pbaethon rubricauda that
—
122-BullABC Vol6No2 BirdingAfrica’sbasement theCapeto theKalahari: Barnes
established itself on the cliffs. The plains toward when your field guide offers more detail than the
Sirkelsvlei support Black-rumped Button-Quail speckyou sawdippingunderthe horizon? InSouth
Tumix hottentotta and Cloud Cisticola Cisticola Africa, a series of pelagic options exist so that you
textrix. Malachite Sunbird Nectariniafamosa can may scoffin delight as these majestic oceanic wan-
befound in certainLeonotispatches andthe ubiqui- derers approach too close for you to focus. Many
tous Red-wingedStarling Onychognathusmoriois seabird specialists, unsurprisingly, regard the West-
ever-present. ern Cape as one ofthe best pelagic birding spots in
The reserve is also hometothe strange Bontebok the world, regularly supporting hundreds of thou-
DamalisousdorcasandelegantElandTaurotragiisoryx. sands ofseabirds. Seabird abundance is particularly
—
Bewareofthe ChacmaBaboonsPapioursinm they high due to the highly productive, nutrient-rich
—
havebecomedecidedlycheek)’withinthereserve and upwelling Benguela current, derived from Antarcti-
pleasedon’tfeedthem.AminimumentryfeeofR20(or ca’s icy waters. Very few places provide such
R 10 perperson whicheveris more) is charged. world-classharboursandships,aplethoraofexciting
species and the spectacle of 1,000s of seabirds
Boulders Bay
squabbling over scraps behind fishing boats.
Leaving the reserve, return to Cape Town along the
Sailing from Simonstown or Flout Bay, operating
FalseBaycoastline, viatheM4.Asyouentersuburban
trawlers are targeted specifically. As many as 5,000
Simonstown,lookforagolfcourseontheright(coastal)
seabirds, of15-20differentspecies, couldbe awaiting
side. Atthe northern perimeterofthe golfcourseturn
yourarrival. Approachinganoperatingtrawlersetsone
right onto Bellevue Road. Start looking for penguins
amidstoneofthelargestseabirdfeedingfrenziesonthe
immediately. Thecolonyisexpanding, andbirdshave globe.Oncetheinitialadrenalineaishisundercontrol,
been recorded attempting to incubate golfballs! This
andyou havefoughtoffthe cripplingviews ofBlack-
idyllicspotconsistsofwhitebeaches,protectedbylarge browed,ShyoiYellow-nosedAlbatrossesDiomedea
granite boulders, and permanently inhabited by the
cblororhynchos White-chinned Petrel, Cape Gan-
little black-and-white suited Jackass Penguin net, Sooty She,arwater and Wilson’s Storm-Petrel
Spheniscusdemersus. A must-seevenue, the birdscan
Oceanitesoceanicus,youcanbegintosiftthroughthe
tbeeracpaptrcohearchaenddeCxatpreemealnydcClorsoelwyn.eAfdrCiocarnmoBrlaacnktsOyasr-e clouds ofbirds insearch ofless commonspecies. The
compositionofthe flocks, andyourchances ofseeing
regularlyseenontherocks. Thestrandveldvegetation
various species, varies according to season.
holdsWhite-backedMousebirdColiuscolius Lesser
, Inwinter(May-August), onehasthebestchance
Double-collared Sunbird and occasionally Cape
offindingWanderingAlbatrossDiomedeaexulans,
Sugarbird
Northern Macronectes halli and Southern Giant
Strandfontein Sewage Works Petrels M. giganteus, Pintado Petrel Daption
TovisitthissiteonerequiresawaiverissuedbytheCape capense, Broad-billedPachyptilavittata, Antarctic
BirdClub(Tel:[phone])onbehalfoftheCape P.desolataandSalvin’sPrionsP.(v.)salvini South
,
MetropolitanCouncil.Pleaseensureyouhaveonebefore PolarSkua and rarely SouthernFulmarFulmarus
visiting. FromSimonstownheadnorthalongthecoastal glacialoides. Spring (September-October) brings
road. Beyond Clovelly, do not take Boyes Drive, passage migrants such as Soft-plumaged Petrel
which heads up the mountainside, but continue Pterodroma mollisand GreatShearwater Puffinus
along the coastal road to Muizenberg. From there gravis. In summer (November-February), the
take Baden Powell Drive (R 310) and turn into BenguelaattractsPalearcticmigrantsincludingCory’s
Strandfontein Road (Ml7) c 7 km from the circle. Shearwater Calonectris diomedea Manx
,
After 4 km turn left to Zeekoevlei and the sewage Shearwater Puffinuspuffinus, British Storm-Pet-
worksareonthenorthernshoreofFalseBay. Oneof relHydrobatespelagicus, Arctic Skua Stercorarius
the bestwetland sites in SouthAfrica, it holds up to parasiticus and Sabine’s Gull Lams sabini. Other
94speciesofwaterbird, 45breedingspecies, includ- summer visitors include Flesh-footed Shearwater
ingthe endemic SouthAfricanShelduck Tadorna Puffinuscarneipes,Great-wingedPetrelPterodroma
cana and Cape Shoveler Anas smithii and (in macroptera (awinterbreederon the Prince Edward
summer) many waders and terns. Islands), Great Shearwater (which breeds on the
Tristan group) and Leach’s Storm-Petrel
Pelagic magic—sensational seabirdfrenzy Oceanodroma leucorhoa (which breeds on South
(1 day) Africa’scoastalislands). Autumn(March-April)brings
• Birds: 10/10 • Scenery: 6/10 • Generaltourismvalue: 4/10 the best chance of seeing Black-bellied Storm-
Ever grimacedwhile ticking an albatross from land, PetrelFregettatropicaasitheadsforwarmertropical
BirdingAfrica’sbasement—theCapeto theKalahari: Barnes BullABC Vol6No2-123
—
)
climes.
The Western Cape is known for its variety of
vagrant pelagic species. Although unlikely, the fol-
lowingaresomeofthemorespectacularspeciesthat
are possible: Royal Diomedea epomophora, Grey-
headedD. chrysostomaand(Dark-mantledSooty)
Albatrosses Phoebetriafusca, Little Shearwater
Puffinusassimilis,andoneofthebestchancesinthe
world ofseeing the extremely rare and endangered
Spectacled Petrel Procellaria (aequinoctialis)
conspicillata (which breeds on the Tristan Group).
ChecktheSugarbirdHomepageforlatestoptionson Cape Rockjumpers ChaetopsfrenatusbyMike Hodgson
(courtesyofBirdQuest
pelagic trips in the Western Cape. It is advisable to
bring seasickness medicine as the waters can turn listen for the crescendo of their piping whistles!
rough suddenly. Other species here include Ground Woodpecker.
Cape Rock Thrush. Cape Siskin Black Eagle
Sir Lowry’s Pass and Betty’s Bay (1 day)— Aquilaverreauxii.JackalBuzzardButeorufofuscus
Traversing False Bay ,
Grey-backed Cisticola. Cape Bunting Emberiza
•Birds:9/10•Scenery:8/10•Generaltourismvalue:6/10
ThenearestplacetoCapeTownholdingafullcompliment capensis,PeregrineFalcon,White-neckedRaven.
Familiar Chat, and rarely Sentinel Rock Thrush
ofthefynbosspecials,SirLowry’sPassintheHottentots
Monticola explorator and Cape Eagle Owl Bubo
HollandMountainsisnotbemissed.Togettherefollow
theN2fromCapeTowntoSomersetWestandbegin capensis.
Fromtheridge-top,lookingtowardSteenbrasDam.
ascendingthepass.Atthesummit,aparkinglotwillappear
suddenlyontheright-handsideoftheroad.Crosstothe onecanseearailway-line;thescarceStripedFlufftail
sideoftheroadoppositetheparkinglot.Beyondtheditch, Sarothuraaffinishasbeenseenbelowit.Althoughthisbird
clamberthroughthebrokenfencewhichisadisused canbealmostimpossibletosee,itseemstoshowitself
entrance.Awidepath,formerlyanaccessroad,climbsto morefrequentlytoforeignvisitors!Thepineplantations
the left. Walknorth-east, alongtheupperofthe two east ofthe canons and around Steenbras Dam hold
breeding Black Accipiter melanoleucus and Red-
tracks that lead from a cleared area adjacent to the
road. Aftercl kmthereisexcellentfynboshabitat. If breastedSparrowhawksA. rufiventrisand Forest
Buzzard
the ericasareflowering, Orange-breastedSunbird
willbeactive. Lookforproteatreeswithlargeyellow TheWest Coast (1-2 days)—a taste of
—
pincushion flowers these mixed Leucospermum Namaqualand
conocarpodendron and Protea neriifolia stands are • Birds: 8/10 • Scenery: 7/10 • General tourismvalue: 6/10
regularlyvisitedbythemagnificentCapeSugarbird. Located cl20 km north of Cape Town, in southern
Ahigh-pitchedmonotonouszittingshouldgiveaway Namaqualand, thisarea’saridandratherbleakterrain
Neddickyand inwettervegetation the Grassbird’s is broken by some ofSouthAfrica’s most impressive
descending warble (easily confused with that of wetlands,particularlyLangebaanLagoonandtheBerg
Victorin’s Warbler) is usually evident. River Estuary. In the austral summer, the Berg River
Aftercl.5km,asedge-seepfilledwithlongreed- holdsthegreatestdensitiesofshorebirdsontheentire
likeElegiacapensisandBerzeliaisevidentwherethe easternAtlanticflyway.HeadoutofCapeTownonthe
power cables cross the path. The sedge beds hold R27 via Milnerton. Approximately 90 km from Cape
several pairs of Victorin’s Warbler Bradypterus Town,theleftturntoWestCoastNationalPark(within
—
victorini asecretivebirdlikelyonlytobeglimpsed, whichLangebaanLagoonisenclosed)willbeseen. If
as it keeps low inthe undergrowth. It is particularly choosing to continue to the Berg River mouth, pro-
difficult to see in strong winds. Just beyond the ceed along the R27 to Laaiplek, where you cross the
sedge,asmallandobscurepathleadstotheleft.After river mouth just before entering town.
150 m itleads to a shallowgully, where atleasttwo At Langebaan Lagoon, Palearctic waders abound
parties of the effervescent Cape Rockjumper in summer, particularly Curlew Sandpiper Calidris
Chaetopsfrenatusare regularly seen. Clamber onto ferruginea,GreyPloverPluvialissquatarola,Ruddy
the rocksonthewestside, andif, atfirst, nosuccess Turnstone Arenaria interpres, Red Knot Calidris
is had, he—adbacktothe parking lotalongthe top of canutusand Sanderling C. alba. Extremely healthy
the ridge a party is bound to be seen or heard numbers of resident shorebirds including African
—
124-BullABC Vol6No2 BirdingAfrica’s basement theCapeto theKalahari:Barnes
—
1. Orange-breasted SunbirdNectariniaviolacecifeeding 3. Southern BoubouLaniariusferrugineus
on erica nectar(PercyFitzPatrick Institute) (Sugarbird Images)
2. Cape SugarbirdPromeropscafer(Sugarbird Images)
conspicillata (Sugarbird Images)
Black Oystercatcher, White-fronted Plover, Lambert’s Bay, one of only six islands in the world
Kittlitz’sPloverCharadriuspecuariusandthescarce where Cape Gannet breeds. Here you will be able
Chestnut-banded Plover C. pallidus supplement to watch theircrazy antics at pointblank range. It is
these. The marshes and sedge beds hold African anamazingspectaclethatenthrallsnotonlybirders
MarshHarrieraswellasskulkingpalustrinespecial- particularly now that a new high-tech hide offers
ists, including Red-chestedFlufftailSarothura rufa face-to-face encounters with the birds. The island
and Kaffir Rail Rallus caerulescens. The best hides also holdsJackass Penguin, Bank, Crowned and
are at Geelbek, where a walking trail to a series of Cape Cormorants.
saltpansalsoexists.Visitatlowtidewhenthemudflats
are exposed. Part II—the Garden Route
The vegetation and open cultivated fields sur- Probablythe mostunder-ratedbirdingarea in South
roundingthewetlandssupportaninterestingavifauna, Africa,theareabetweenCapeTownandTsitsikamma
includingconspicuousspeciesnotalwayseasilyseen NationalPark, andthevirtuallyunbirded Outeniqua
elsewhere. The most absorbing among these are the and Swartberg ranges inland, offersplendidscenery
strikingBlackHarrierCircusmaurus,stridentSouth- andahigherconcentrationofSouthAfricanendemics
ern Black Korhaan Eupodotis afra afra Capped than any other area in the country.
,
Wheatear Oenanthepileata, Thick-billed Galerida Overberg and De Hoop (1-2 days)
magnirostris and Red-capped Larks Calandrella
•Birds:8/10•Scenery:7/10•Generaltourismvalue:6/10
cinerea. Other common species include Pied Spreo Ifheading to the garden route from Cape Town, an
bicolorandWattledStarlings Creatophoracinerea, excellent area to explore for a day is the Overberg
Bokmakierie, Karoo Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas and De Hoop Nature Reserve. Follow the N2 from
coryphaeus,YellowCanarySerinusflaviventrisand Cape Town, via Sir Lowry’s Pass (see part I) to
White-backed Mousebird.
Caledon; turn onto the R3l6 and continue to
Ifadditionaltimeisavailable,headtoBirdIslandin Bredasdorp (c74 km). The R3l6 between Caledon
BirdingAfrica’s basement—the Capeto theKalahari: Barnes BullABC Vo!6No2-125
and Bredasdorp is prime Overberg country, nestled inselberg,calledPotberg,risesabruptlyintheeastofthe
on the coastal plain, and sheltered by the rugged reserve, surrounded by a sea ofwind-derived aeolian
Langeberg Mountains to —the north, the Overberg sand. This small inselberg is the only home forseveral
stretches to Cape Agulhas the southernmost point plantspecies, includingtwospectacularProteas. Italso
inAfrica. Once a series ofplains oflowland fynbos, holds the last Cape Vulture Gyps copmtheres colony
the majority of the original vegetation has been (c30 pairs) in the Western Cape as well as small but
replacedbywheat. Itisnotallbadnewshowever,as significant populations ofStripedFlufftail and Black-
many interesting birds, particularly some rare ones, rumpedButton-Quail. Other special species among
haveadaptedremarkablywell. PartiesofstatelyBlue thelistof260recordedatthereservearePiedStarling.
Crane Anthropoidesparadisaea stride through the Orange-throated(Cape)Longclawllaawnwcapeiisis.
area. Althoughoncerarehere, morethan30%ofthe Bokmakierie. Pearl-breasted Swallow Hiruudo
global population now congregates in this area dimidiata.PiedBarbetTricholaemaleucomelas Black
,
annually. The fields are also home to Denham’s Harrier AfricanBlackOystercatcherandeightspe-
BustardNeotis denhami Thick-billed Lark. Red- ciesofcanarySennasspp.CapeFrancolinisextremely
,
cappedLarkandthehighlyrange-restrictedAgulhas tame, particularlyatthecampsitewheretheywillforage
Long-billed Lark Certhilauda (curvirostris) less than a metre away, while Fiery-neckedNightjar
brevirostris. Occasionally Secretary Birds Sagitta- Caprimulguspectoralisiscommonaround thecottages
rius serpentarius can be seen pulverising hapless at night, belting out its crescendo call.
snakes near the road. These species are possible
The Garden Route (3-4 days)
anywhere along this road, and numerous stops to
• Birds: 8 1" • Scenery: in 10 • Generaltourismvalue: 6
look and listen are advised. Stop also in the small 10
patches ofremaining renosterbos (Rhino-bush) and Locatedc450kmeastofCapeTown,thispicturesque
strandveldtolookforthe stunningSouthernBlack and dainty mosaic of fynbos and forest gardens is
Korhaan. scattered among a plethora of lakes, lagoons and
FromBredasdorp,taketheSwellendamroad(R319). seasides. Knysna is the closest area to Cape Town
After7kmturnrighttoWydgelee,29kmfurtherturnright holding large tracts ofCape temperate forest and it
toDeHoopandcontinue 10kmtothegate. DeHoop, makesawonderfulbasetoexplorethisstrikingarea.
in stark contrast to the wheatbelt, comprises a unique Several accommodation options are available in
diversityofnaturalhabitats.Theseincludenaggedcoast- Knysna, check the Sugarbird Home page http:
line, pristine beaches and sand dunes, a wide coastal home.mweb.co.za/kb/kbarnes for a full listing. The
plainholdingremnantfragmentsofthehighlythreatened most notable option is the Bush Camp in Phantom
lowlandfynbosandsomebizarreanduniquelimestone Forest Eco-reserve (Tel: [phone]; Fax: 27-44-
hills incised by the 15 km-long De Hoop Vlei. The 387-1944;e-mail:[email protected].).This
Ramsar-designated vlei is actually a coastal lake, often luxuriouscamp islocatedwithintheforestonPhan-
excellent for waterbirds; Cape Shoveler is one of 75 tom Pass and its fast-growing reputation as one of
species of waterfowl regularly recorded here. The South Africa’s finest eco-tourism destinations is not
Milkwoods surrounding the vlei support Southern unfounded. All the endemic forest specials have
Tchagra Tchagra tchagra. An isolated sandstone been found on the property as has NarinaTrogon
Apaloderma narina and other ‘most wanted' birds.
Canopy towers are currently under construction,
exclusively for the use of paying lodge-birders. To
reach the reserve, take the first turn to the left on
enteringKnysna(fromCapeTown),beforeyoucross
thebridge. Do not peel roundunderthe bridge, but
head straight along the shore of the lagoon on
Phantom Pass Road for cl km. Follow the signs to
Phantom Forest Eco-reserve.
Manyotherforestpatchesexist;particularlygoodare
thoseatDiepwalleandBigTree.FurtheralongtheN2(c80
km),thesmalltownofNature’sValleyhasmanycheap
B&Bsandissurroundedbyexcellentforest.Aparticularly
quaint spot here is called Tourist Lodge (Tel: 27-
Blue CraneAnthropoidesparadisaeabyMike Hodgson
04457-6681).
(courtesyofBirdQuest)
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126-BullABC Vol6No2 BirdingAfrica’sbasement theCapeto theKalahari: Barnes
Spendmosttimeinthetallcathedral-typeforests. nificant population ofthese. Fareasierto find is the
Sometimesdeathlysilent,thetwitteringofabirdpartycan seed-eatingendemicForestCanary, SweeWaxbill
breakthelethargyoftheforest. Mixed-speciesflocks Estrilda melanotis and Greater Double Collared
comprisingBar-throatedApalisApalisthoracica Blue- NectariniaafraandBlackSunbirdsN.amethystina.
.
mantledFlycatcherTrochocercuscycinomelas.Grey The rolling hills expose chunks of fynbos on their
Cuckoo-ShrikeC(mci)incaesiaandYcllow-throatedWar- crests. When in flower, the red ericas are adorned
blerPhylloscopusruficapillasally and glean insects withOrange-breastedSunbirds. CapeSugarbird,
from the canopy of buttressed Yellowwood and vociferous Yictorin’s Warbler and other fynbos
Ironwood trees. Be on the lookout for Knysna specialities are also easily seen here.
WoodpeckerCampetheranotata, whichfrequently AlsovisitTsitsikammaNationalParkwhereSouth-
utters its characteristic staccato scream. The cool ernRightWhalesEubalaenaaustraliscomeinshore
mossyrocks, fungus-fleckedgroundandfernglades to breed and calve. In the park there is excellent
are home to parties of chuckling Terrestrial forest, holdingmanyofthespecieslistedabove.The
BrownbulPhyllastrephusterrestrisaswellasWhite- GrootRiverisknowntoholdseveralriver-dependent
starredRobinPogonocichlastellataandChorister speciesmoretypicaloftropicalriversincludingHalf-
Robin-Chat Cossypha dichroa. Track any raucous collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata and the
croaking which may herald a Knysna Turaco elusive African Finfoot Podica senegalensis and
Tauraco(persa) corythaix. Look for fruiting trees as White-backedNightHeronGorsachiusleuconotus.
they may hold flocks ofBlack-belliedGlossyStar- Within the park, the Storms River Mouth restcamp,
ling Lcunprotornis corruscus. Low hooting, with its—excellent cottages and facilities, is recom-
particularly in spring (September-November), may mended contact SouthAfrican National Parks (Tel:
bring, with luck, a view of the fabled Narina 27-12-343-1991; Fax: [phone]; e-mail:
Trogon.KeepscanningoverheadforbreedingMoun- [email protected]) for details.
tainBuzzardwhichregularlyissueaplaintivekleeuw
call. The constant churring of the Cape Batis will Swartberg Pass (1-2 days add-on to 7 or 8)
•Birds:9/10•Scenery:10/10•Generaltourismvalue:7/10
give this pokey insectivore away, but the cryptic Thisrouteisonlypossibleifcombinedwithatriptothe
Olive Bush-Shrike Malaconotus olivaceus is more Garden Route orKaroo National Park, orpreferably
diimfiftiactuiltontso—soefe,itasltcahlol.ugOhnitdtoheesfroeressptonfdlotoro,whsiesvtelreadl dbeostthi,naatsionist.liNnokswhtehreeseistwthoedsrtarmiaktinigcavlalryiabdiilfifteyreontf
skulkers the noisy Red-necked Spurfowl
South Africa more evident than on the short drive
Francolinusaferand Cinna—mon and Tambourine between Knysna and Prince Albert, taking in the
Doves Turtur tympanistria are more frequently Outeniqua and Swartberg mountains. Temperate
heard than seen. In summer, the piercing pretty evergreenforestscloaktheshadysouthernmountain
georgie whistle of arguably Africa’s most dazzling slopes,well-wateredbycoastalmistsandyear-round
cuckoo,theAfricanEmeraldCuckooChrysococcyx
rainfall, while succulent desert plants cling to the
cupreus,isblastedfromtreetopsalmostaslushasthe blistered northern valley floors, sweltering in the
bird itself. Also common are African Goshawk rain-shadow of the mountains. From Knysna, one
Accipitertachiro, Olive Woodpecker Dendropicos shouldheadbackontheN2towardsGeorge.Leaving
griseocephalus, Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne theN2attheGeorgeturn-off,headalongtheN9over
pristoptera, Sombre Bulbul, Fork-tailed Drongo the Outeniqua Pass and then take the N12 to
Dicrurus adsimilis, Bleating Bush Warbler Oudtshoorn. The many lay-byes are worth a stop,
Camaropterabrachyura,SouthernBoubou,Dusky
scan for fynbos specials and Black and Martial
Flycatcher, EasternBlack-headedOriole Oriolus Eagles Polemaetus bellicosus, which are seen here
larvatusandAfricanParadiseFlycatcher.Atnight, regularly. Once over the pass, the vegetation will
the bubblingcall oftheWoodOwlStrixwoodfordii begintolookdecidedlyscrubby—youarenowinthe
ipshannottomu-nlickoemmfoognhoarnnd hkoeoetpinganoefarthoepednimifnourtitvhee sLittrtaliegKhta—rotoh.eONn12reabcrhainncgheOsudttoshtohoernri,ghkte—epalhoenagditnhge
Buff-spotted Flufftail Sarothura elegans, one of R328 to Prince Albert, following signs to Cango
Africa’s hardest forest birds to see. Caves. TaketheSchoemanspoortPassandfollowall
The forestedge alsohas its specialists, including signs to Prince Albert/Swartberg Pass—bypassing
the bracken-dependent Knysna Warbler, a very theturn-offtotheCangoCaves.Theroadturnstodirt
difficult bird to see, even when it is calling in shortlythereafter.Asoneascendsthepass,thescrub
September-October. The Knysna Heads hold a sig- turns to fynbos, with the associated gamut of com-
BirdingAfrica’sbasement—theCapeto theKalahari: Barnes BullABC Vol6No2-127
5. Namaqua SandgrousePteroclesnamaqua Red-cappedLarkCalandreUacinera,easilyidentified bythe
(Sugarbird Images) rufousshoulder patch andcrown (Sugarbird Images)
6. Sclater’s LarkSpizocoryssclateriis best identifiedbyits 8. BarlowsLarkCetlhilaudabariowiisnowconsideredadistinct
heavybill andtear-drop linebelowthe eye speciesfromthedoselyrelatedKarooLarkC.albescens,onthe
(Sugarbird Images) basisofitsheavierbreaststreakingandnotabledifferencesin
geneticcompositionandsongstructure(SugarbirdImages)
mon fynbos birds. Higher up, the bushes become Stenostira scita White-throated Canary Sennits
smaller and the proportion of exposed rock in- albogulans Whit,e-backedMousebird.Layard’sTit-
creases. Pause at the top, called Die Top: on either Babbler Pa,risoma layardi Long-billed Crombec
side ofthe roadagroup ofCapeRockjumpers can Sylvietta rufescens and Ka,roo Scrub-Robin. The
befound. ThegratingkeaurghghofGroundWood- canyon ends abruptly, and c4 km beyond, a small
pecker is not uncommon here. Cape and Sentinel picnic/campingspotis locatedontheleft, justbefore
Rock Thrushes can also be seen. Two to three the Klaarstroom road intersection. Pause here, as
kilometres further, the road to Die Hel branches off NamaquaWarblerPhragmaciasubstriataandPririt
left.ThisjunctionisexcellentforCapeSiskin.Alittle Batis Batispriritare common in the grove oftrees.
farther, a large stand of Protea trees hosts Cape Whether heading back to Cape Town, or on to
Sugarbird, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Grassbird KarooNationalPark, itispossible(andadvisable)to
and on occasion, the scarce ProteaCanarySerinus overnightinPrinceAlbert, asthekaroovegetationis
leucopterus. Descending to Prince Albert, soaring mostproductive atdawn. TheHotel Swartberg(top-
cliffswithspectacularrockformationslinethe20-km range), Rozie’s (mid-range) and Huis Adriaan or
gravel road. At high altitude, search for soaring Hooggenoeg Holiday Houses (budget) are recom-
Black, Booted Hieraaetuspennatus and Martial mended. Call the Prince Albert Tourism Bureau for
Eagles. As you—enter the drier gorge the avifauna bookings and more information (Tel: [phone]-
changes rapidly keep your eyes peeled for Pale- 366).Thesmallseriesofhillseastoftownholdafew
winged Starling Onychognathus nabouroup and parties of Karoo Eremomela Eremomelagregalis.
Mountain Chat Oenanthe monticola on the cliffs, TheplainsnorthofPrinceAlbertarebestintheearly
and Malachite Sunbird on the aloes. Just before morning. Although the R353 is productive (bird the
exitingthecanyon,theriversupportssomeluxurious Gamka riverbed where it crosses the road c8 km
Acaciakarooscrub; stop here forFairyFlycatcher before the Nl), ifyou have time available, take the
128-BullABC Vol6No2 BirdingAfrica’sbasement—the Capeto theKalahari: Barnes
—
dirtroadtoSeekoegat(theonlyroadheadingrighton Anthuscrenatus Pale-wingedStarlingandGround
,
leavingPrinceAlbert), 1 kmnorthoftown. Stopand Woodpeckeroccurinrockygorgesandkloofswhile
bird extensively in the (usually dry) Oukloof river- Sickle-wingedChat Cercomelasinuatais found in
bed. If any water is lying, look for the nomadic plateau scrub. The best area to find these species is
Black-headedCanarySerinusalario.Whiledriving KlipspringerPass.Atthetopoftheplateau, thereare
acrosstheplains, keepalookoutforthelow-density several stopping points to peer into a gorge that
Ludwig’s Bustard Neotis ludwigii and Karoo holds most ofthese species. AfricanRockPipit is
Korhaan Eupodotis vigorsii. Stop occasionally to often heard calling, and is occasionally seen, from
lookandlistenforRufous-earedWarblerMalconis above the Fonteintjies walking trail. The newly
pectoralis and a host of larks in this area (many described Karoo Long-billed Lark Certbilauda
species are similar to those at Karoo National Park (icurvirostris)subcoronata(seeAuk 116: 194-208) is
described below). Proceed to Karoo National Park, commonthroughout the park. Other arid-zone spe-
on the Nl, South Africa’s premier highway; the cies occurring here are Dusky Sunbird Nectarinia
entrance is 5 km south-west ofBeaufort West. fusca, which is a nomad, not seen elsewhere in the
WesternCapeandPaleChantingGoshawkMelierax
Karoo National Park (2-3 days)
canorus Pririt Batis, Fairy Flycatcher, Cape
•Birds:8/10•Scenery:7/10•Generaltourismvalue:6/10 Penduli,ne Tit Anthoscopus minutus and White-
TheKhoisanhunter-gatherers,theoldestinhabitantsof
throated Canary.
SouthAfrica,calledthecentralplateauthe‘Karuu’,or
GamkaDamontheGrootplaathastheonlyperma-
“placeofgreatdryness”.Chalet—s,cottagesandcampingare
availableintheNationalPark andthereisanair-condi- nentsurfacewaterintheparkandsupportsahostof
tioned restaurant (to book tel: [phone] or wSahteelrbdiurcdks,ainndclYuedlilnogwC-abpilelSehdoDveulcekr,ASnoaustuhnAdfurliatcaa.n
fax: [phone]). Underlying its barren appear-
ance,theKaroobiomeishometosome5,000species The cliffs near the dam have breeding Black and
Booted Eagles, and Black Stork Ciconia nigra.
ofplant morethanareinCanada.Itholdsonethird
ofall the world’s succulent plant species. The park Beaufort West has several large Eucalyptus trees
represents one ofthe more spectacular parts ofthe which supportupto 10,000roostingLesserKestrel
Karoo, with the impressive Nuweveld escarpment, Falco naumanni in summer; the birds disperse
during the day to forage on the plains surrounding
whichrisesto 1,900m, formingthebackdropforthe
the town.
lower plains. Despite only 170 bird species having
While hunting for birds, you may bump into
been recorded in the park, it is extremely important
forNamib-Karoobiome-restrictedspecies,aswellas otherkarroidbeastssuchasCloete’sGirdledLizard
supportingahostofotherarid-zonespecialities.The Cordyluscloetei, Braack’s DwarfLeaf-toedGecko
lowland plains have Ludwig’s Bustard. Karoo GoggiabraackiandThin-skinnedthick-toedGecko
Korhaan, Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes Pachydactylus kladeroderma; all of which have
albofasciata, Karoo Lark Certhilauda albescens minuteglobalranges,restrictedtotinyportionsofthe
, Nuweveld escarpment. Other endemics include
Grey-backedSparrow-LarkEremopterixverticals,
Grant’s Rock Mouse Aetbomyisgrand, Namaqua
Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac Karoo Chat C.
, ChameleonChamaeleonamaquensis KarooDwarf
schlegelii Karoo Eremomela and Rufous-eared ,
, Chameleon Bracbypodion karroicum, Greater
Warbler. Black-headed Canary occurs whenever
HomopusfemoralisandBoulenger’sPadlopersH.
thereisseedinggrassandwater.Thebeltsofriverine
Acacia karoo woodland hold Namaqua Warbler boulengeri, Tent Tortoise Psammobates tentorius,
Spotted House Snake Lampropbisguttatus Com-
manadnyprootvhiedresfpoeocdi,es.sheTlhteertahnicdkebtreaenddinsgcrhuabbiotanttfhoer mon Long-tailed Seps Tetradactylus tetrad,actylus
slopessupportLayard’sTit-BabblerandSouthern andahostofendemiclizardsandgeckos.Thepark
Grey Tit Pams afer. In very wet years, nomadic holdsmanyspeciesthatonceroamedtheseplainsin
Black-eared Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix australis greater numbers prior to human intervention. The
threatenedBlackRhinocerosDicerosbicornis, and
and Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani arrive
the endemic Cape Mountain Zebra Equus zebra
tobreedinlarge numbers, andare then absentuntil
the next heavy rains, which may be up to decades zebra (the second largest population in the world),
BlackWildebeest Connocahetesgnouand Spring-
apart. In exceptional rain years, Sclater’s Lark
bokAntidorcas marsupialisroam here. Threatened
Spizocorys sclateri has also been recorded. The
secretive and localised Cinnamon-breasted War- species such as Leopard Pantberapardus, Small
blerEuryptilasubcinnamomea AfricanRockPipit SpottedCatFelisnigripes,AardwolfProtelescristata,
,
BirdingAfrica’s basement—tbeCapeto theKalahari: Barnes BullABC Vol6No2- 129
— —
Aardvark Orycteropusafer Sclater’sGoldenMole the plains start looking for Karoo Chat. Yellow
,
Chlorotalpasclateri Melck’sSerotineBatEptesicus Canary. White-throated Canary' Southern .Ant-
,
melckorum, Lesuer’sHairyBatMyotislesueuriand eater-Chat.Mynnecocichlaiformicivora,Sickle-winged
Spectacled Dormouse Graphiurus ocularis also Chat. PiedStarling Bokmakierie andJackal Buz-
occurinthe park. Nightdrivescanbe arrangedwith zard and Pale Chanting Goshawk perching on
staff and may prove spectacular, particularly if the telephone and electricity poles.
mythical Aardvark is seen. Approximately5kmbeyondtheSutherlandturn-offa
numberofsmalldamsappearontheright-handside,as
Part III—the arid interior wellasalargerdamonafarmcalledInverdoom:allare
SouthAfrica’saridinteriordoesnotofferthehighestbird privateproperty',sopleaserespectthis.Stopontheroad
diversity,butbyfarthehighestproportionofendemics; andscopeforahostofwaterfowlincludingSouth.African
everysecondbirdseenhereisnotseenanywhereelseinthe Shelduck.CapeShovelerandMaccoaDuck:occasion-
world!TheclosestsitetoCapeTownofferingTeal'Karoo allyevenflamingoshavebeenseen. Inmidsummer
birdsisTankwaKaroo.Largelyuntouchedbydevelop- the dam can be dry.
mentandcriss-crossedwithdirtroads,onehastostayin Just north of Inverdoom two isolated glacial tillite
Ceresorcampifwantingtospendmorethanadayinthis hillsrise(oneoneachsideofthe road). Anarrow road
area. leadsofftotheeast(right-handside)hill.Parkatthebase
Ceres &Tankwa Karoo (1-2 days)—the andlookforthemainprizehere KarooEremomela
Generallyscarce inthe Karoo, thisfeistylittlewarbleris
thirstlands
not uncommon here. Rufous-earedWarbler. Sickle-
•Birds:10/10•Scenery:9/10•Generaltourismvalue:5/10
FromCapeTowntheeasyrouteistofollowtheNational winged Chat. Southern Grey Tit. Cape Penduline
Road(N1)tojustshortofWorcester,whereyouaimnorth Tit. Spike-heeled Lark and Karoo Lark are also
ontotheR43towardWolseleyandCeres.Followsignposts common.Thesurroundingplainsarereliablef(>rKaroo
to Ceres. Just before arriving in Ceres you traverse Korhaan.andoccasionally(inwinter>Ludwig'sBustard.
Mitchell’s Pass and c5 km before town a small kiosk Northofthehills,TractracChatsandSouthernBlack
onthe left-hand side, called DieTolhius, hasasmall Korhaan are more regular and the kelkieuyn call of
parking lot. Occasionally ForestCanary and Swee Namaq—ua Sandgrouse Pteivcles namaqua is more
Waxbill forage on the grass here. The thicket of evident althoughgettinggoodviewsis hard. It isbest
pastel green Protea neriifolia on the hillside is to look forthe species atcl0.00 hrswhen they tend to
exceptionally interesting. A small dirt path behind drink.Twentykilometresnorthofthetillites,asigntoOp-
die-BergandKaggaKamma indicatesaroadleadingoff
bDSeeisaeirTdcoehlhtfhuoiirssPblrueotatdbeseawtoCaraaen,raaritlrywaaiaynss. isItttiliilssrpfuorsnesqioubenlnetthtihosewrlaeinlek. tiontshpeikleyfta.lFooelplloawnttsh.eWmhmenforth2ekvmaltloeyaospmaelnlsguilntloydarsampaeldl
kaletehpouignhmsionmdethtaitmeStmraeyakbye-hreeqaudierdedCtaonlaorcyatSeeirtiannuds Alecfta.cIitai-slpionsesdibrlievetroccoaurmspe,atatnhiasrsrmoawllrpoiacdnipceseiltse,obfufttkoetehpe
gularisiscommonhere. Otherfynbosbirdsabound. in mind that facilities are basic. There is clean running
Themountainsareexcellentforraptorsandthereis drinkable water and a long-drop toilet, and not much
agoodchanceofseeingJackalBuzzard, Blackand else.Thisplace,knownasKatbakkies,isfamousasbeing
Booted Eagles. themostaccessible—site inSouthAfricaforCinnamon-
Once in Ceres fill upwith fuel—therewillbe no breastedWarbler thehardestkaroobirdofall.Dubbed
morefuelstationsuntilyoureturntoCeres. Continue a “mini-rockjumper”, it often resembles a mouse more
east along the R46 over Theronsberg Pass, shortly than a bird, hoppingabout in tinygapsbetween stone
after which you traverse a small valley called slabs,itmayleapoutmomentarily,onlytoboundalong
Karoopoort (45 km east of Ceres). Karoopoort is akoppieridgeathighspeed. Thereareseveralpairs in
easilyrecognisedastheareawheretheroadchanges the gorges, andwalkingthe riverbed oroverthe ridge
to dirt andaftera kilometre changes backto tarand oppositethecanyonentranceoffersthebestchance of
thenfinallyreverts to dirtagain. The riverandreeds theseelusivebirds. TheAcaciawoodlandisproductive
here hold NamaquaWarbler. Rocky crags around for Fairy Flycatcher, Long-billed Crombec. Pririt
KaroopoortsupportPale-wingedStarling.Thearid Batis, CapeBunting and PiedBarbet. The cliffs and
flatsareonly20kmbeyondKaroopoort. Therainfall rockyareas hold MountainChat, SouthernGreyTit
mm andGroundWoodpecker. Atnight, FreckledNight-
gradient drops from 1,200 p.a. in the Ceres
mm jarCaprimulgustristigmahasbeenrecordedinthisarea
Mountains to as little as 180 p.a. around andCapeEagleOwlhas beenfound onseveral occa-
Katbakkies. As you emerge from Karoopoort onto
130-BullABC Vol6No2 BirdingAfrica’$basement—theCapeto theKalahari: Barnes