biological and medical physics, biomedical engineering biological and medical physics, biomedical engineering Thefieldsofbiologicalandmedicalphysicsandbiomedicalengineeringarebroad,multidisciplinaryand dynamic.Theylieatthecrossroadsoffrontierresearchinphysics,biology,chemistry,andmedicine.The BiologicalandMedicalPhysics,BiomedicalEngineeringSeriesisintendedtobecomprehensive,coveringa broadrangeoftopicsimportanttothestudyofthephysical,chemicalandbiologicalsciences.Itsgoalisto providescientistsandengineerswithtextbooks,monographs,andreferenceworkstoaddressthegrowing needforinformation. Booksintheseriesemphasizeestablishedandemergentareasofscienceincludingmolecular,membrane, andmathematicalbiophysics;photosyntheticenergyharvestingandconversion;informationprocessing; physicalprinciplesofgenetics;sensorycommunications;automatanetworks,neuralnetworks,andcellu- larautomata.Equallyimportantwillbecoverageofappliedaspectsofbiologicalandmedicalphysicsand biomedicalengineeringsuchasmolecularelectroniccomponentsanddevices,biosensors,medicine,imag- ing,physicalprinciplesofrenewableenergyproduction,advancedprostheses,andenvironmentalcontroland engineering. Editor-in-Chief: EliasGreenbaum,OakRidgeNationalLaboratory,OakRidge,Tennessee,USA EditorialBoard: JudithHerzfeld,DepartmentofChemistry, MasuoAizawa,DepartmentofBioengineering, BrandeisUniversity,Waltham,Massachusetts,USA TokyoInstituteofTechnology,Yokohama,Japan MarkS.Humayun,DohenyEyeInstitute, OlafS.Andersen,DepartmentofPhysiology, LosAngeles,California,USA Biophysics&MolecularMedicine, CornellUniversity,NewYork,USA PierreJoliot,InstitutedeBiologie Physico-Chimique,FondationEdmond RobertH.Austin,DepartmentofPhysics, deRothschild,Paris,France PrincetonUniversity,Princeton,NewJersey,USA LajosKeszthelyi,InstituteofBiophysics,Hungarian JamesBarber,DepartmentofBiochemistry, AcademyofSciences,Szeged,Hungary ImperialCollegeofScience,Technology andMedicine,London,England RobertS.Knox,DepartmentofPhysics andAstronomy,UniversityofRochester,Rochester, HowardC.Berg,DepartmentofMolecular NewYork,USA andCellularBiology,HarvardUniversity, Cambridge,Massachusetts,USA AaronLewis,DepartmentofAppliedPhysics, HebrewUniversity,Jerusalem,Israel VictorBloomfield,DepartmentofBiochemistry, UniversityofMinnesota,St.Paul,Minnesota,USA StuartM.Lindsay,DepartmentofPhysics andAstronomy,ArizonaStateUniversity, RobertCallender,DepartmentofBiochemistry, Tempe,Arizona,USA AlbertEinsteinCollegeofMedicine, Bronx,NewYork,USA DavidMauzerall,RockefellerUniversity, NewYork,NewYork,USA BrittonChance,DepartmentofBiochemistry/ Biophysics,UniversityofPennsylvania, EugenieV.Mielczarek,DepartmentofPhysics Philadelphia,Pennsylvania,USA andAstronomy,GeorgeMasonUniversity,Fairfax, Virginia,USA StevenChu,LawrenceBerkeleyNational Laboratory,Berkeley,California,USA MarkolfNiemz,MedicalFacultyMannheim, UniversityofHeidelberg,Mannheim,Germany LouisJ.DeFelice,DepartmentofPharmacology, VanderbiltUniversity,Nashville,Tennessee,USA V.AdrianParsegian,PhysicalScienceLaboratory, NationalInstitutesofHealth,Bethesda, JohannDeisenhofer,HowardHughesMedical Maryland,USA Institute,TheUniversityofTexas,Dallas, Texas,USA LindaS.Powers,UniversityofArizona, Tucson,Arizona,USA GeorgeFeher,DepartmentofPhysics, UniversityofCalifornia,SanDiego,LaJolla, EarlW.Prohofsky,DepartmentofPhysics, California,USA PurdueUniversity,WestLafayette,Indiana,USA HansFrauenfelder, AndrewRubin,DepartmentofBiophysics,Moscow LosAlamosNationalLaboratory, StateUniversity,Moscow,Russia LosAlamos,NewMexico,USA MichaelSeibert,NationalRenewableEnergy IvarGiaever,RensselaerPolytechnicInstitute, Laboratory,Golden,Colorado,USA Troy,NewYork,USA DavidThomas,DepartmentofBiochemistry, SolM.Gruner,CornellUniversity, UniversityofMinnesotaMedicalSchool, Ithaca,NewYork,USA Minneapolis,Minnesota,USA Bharat Bhushan Biophysics of Human Hair Structural, Nanomechanical, and Nanotribological Studies With94Figures 123 ProfessorBharatBhushan OhioStateUniversity NanoprobeLaboratoryforBio-and NanotechnologyandBiomimetics(NLB2) 201West19thAvenue Columbus,OH43210-1142,USA [email protected] BiologicalandMedicalPhysics,BiomedicalEngineering ISSN1618-7210 ISBN978-3-642-15900-8 e-ISBN978-3-642-15901-5 DOI10.1007/978-3-642-15901-5 SpringerHeidelbergDordrechtLondonNewYork LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2010938615 (cid:2)c Springer-VerlagBerlinHeidelberg2010 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.Allrightsarereserved,whetherthewholeorpartofthematerial isconcerned,specificallytherightsoftranslation,reprinting,reuseofillustrations,recitation,broad- casting,reproductiononmicrofilmorinanyotherway,andstorageindatabanks.Duplicationof thispublicationorpartsthereofispermittedonlyundertheprovisionsoftheGermanCopyrightLaw ofSeptember9,1965,initscurrentversion,andpermissionforusemustalwaysbeobtainedfrom Springer.ViolationsareliabletoprosecutionundertheGermanCopyrightLaw. Theuseofgeneraldescriptivenames,registerednames,trademarks,etc.inthispublicationdoesnot imply,evenintheabsenceofaspecificstatement,thatsuchnamesareexemptfromtherelevantpro- tectivelawsandregulationsandthereforefreeforgeneraluse. Coverdesign:IntegraSoftwareServicesPvt.Ltd.,Pondicherry Printedonacid-freepaper SpringerispartofSpringerScience+BusinessMedia(www.springer.com) Preface Humanhairisananocompositebiologicalfiber.Maintainingthehealth,feel,shine, color,softness,andoverall aestheticsofthehairishighlydesired.Haircareprod- ucts such as shampoos and conditioners, along with damaging processes such as chemical dyeing and permanent wave treatments, affect the maintenance and groomingprocessandareimportanttostudybecausetheyaltermanyhairproper- ties.Nanoscalecharacterizationofthecellularstructure,mechanicalproperties,and morphological, frictional, and adhesive properties (tribological properties) of hair are essential to evaluate and develop better cosmetic products and to advance the understandingofbiologicalandcosmeticscience.Theatomic/frictionforcemicro- scope(AFM/FFM)andnanoindenterhavebecomeimportanttoolsforstudyingthe micro/nanoscalepropertiesofhumanhair.Inthisbook,wepresentacomprehensive review of structural, nanomechanical, and nanotribological properties of various hairandskinasafunctionofethnicity,damage,conditioningtreatment,andvarious environments.Variouscellularstructuresofhumanhairandfinesublamellarstruc- tures of the cuticle are identified and studied. Nanomechanical properties such as hardness,elasticmodulus,tensiledeformation,fatigue,creep,andscratchresistance arediscussed.Nanotribologicalpropertiessuchasroughness,friction,andadhesion are presented, as well as investigations of conditioner distribution, thickness, and bindinginteractions.Tounderstandtheelectrostaticchargebuilduponhair,surface potentialstudiesarealsopresented. Thebookshouldserveasareferencebookonthebiophysicsofhumanhairand hairtreatments. The research reported in this book was supported by Procter & Gamble Co. in Cincinnati,Ohio,andKobe,Japan.IwouldliketothankCarmenLaTorrewhohad assistedinvariouspublicationsonhairresearch.Iwouldalsoliketothankmywife Sudha,whohasbeenforbearingduringthepreparationofthisbook. Powell,OH BharatBhushan November2010 v Contents 1 Introduction—HumanHair,Skin,andHairCareProducts........... 1 1.1 HumanHair ................................................ 1 1.1.1 TheCuticle .......................................... 3 1.1.2 TheCortexandMedulla................................ 6 1.2 Skin ....................................................... 7 1.3 HairCare:CleaningandConditioningTreatments,andDamaging Processes .................................................. 10 1.3.1 CleaningandConditioningTreatments:Shampoo andConditioner ...................................... 13 1.3.2 DamagingProcesses................................... 18 1.4 OrganizationoftheBook ..................................... 19 2 ExperimentalMethods........................................... 21 2.1 ExperimentalApparatuses..................................... 23 2.2 ExperimentalProcedure ...................................... 26 2.2.1 StructuralCharacterizationUsinganAFM ................ 26 2.2.2 SurfacePotentialStudiesUsingAFM-Based KelvinProbeMicroscopy .............................. 29 2.2.3 NanomechanicalCharacterizationUsingNanoindentation ... 30 2.2.4 InSituTensileDeformationCharacterizationUsingAFM ... 32 2.2.5 Macroscale Tribological Characterization UsingaFrictionTestApparatus......................... 33 2.2.6 Micro/nanotribologicalCharacterizationUsinganAFM ..... 35 2.3 HairandSkinSamples ....................................... 41 3 StructuralCharacterizationUsinganAFM ........................ 45 3.1 StructureofHairCrossSectionandLongitudinalSection .......... 45 3.1.1 CrossSectionofHair .................................. 45 3.1.2 LongitudinalSectionofHair ............................ 45 3.2 StructureofVariousCuticleLayers ............................. 48 3.2.1 VirginHair........................................... 48 vii viii Contents 3.2.2 ChemicallyDamagedHair.............................. 50 3.2.3 Conditioner-TreatedHair ............................... 52 3.2.4 EffectofHumidityonMorphologyandCellularStructure ofHairSurface....................................... 54 3.3 Summary................................................... 55 4 Nanomechanical Characterization Using Nanoindentation, Nanoscratch,andAFM .......................................... 57 4.1 Hardness,Young’sModulus,andCreep ......................... 57 4.1.1 HairSurface.......................................... 57 4.1.2 CrossSection......................................... 63 4.1.3 EffectofHumidityandTemperatureonYoung’sModulus ... 64 4.2 ScratchResistance ........................................... 68 4.2.1 NanoscratchonSingleCuticleCell....................... 68 4.2.2 NanoscratchonMultipleCuticleCells.................... 70 4.2.3 SoakingEffect........................................ 75 4.3 InSituTensileDeformationStudiesonHumanHairUsingAFM .... 76 4.3.1 Tensile Deformation of Caucasian Virgin, Damaged, andTreatedHair ..................................... 78 4.3.2 EffectofEthnicityonTensileDeformation ................ 81 4.3.3 EffectofSoakingonTensileDeformationofCaucasian Virgin,Damaged,andTreatedHair...................... 82 4.3.4 Fatigue Studies of Caucasian Virgin, Damaged, andTreatedHair ..................................... 85 4.4 Summary................................................... 88 5 Multi-scaleTribologicalCharacterization .......................... 91 5.1 MacroscaleTribologicalCharacterization........................ 91 5.1.1 FrictionandWearStudiesofVariousHair................. 91 5.1.2 EffectofTemperatureandHumidityonHairFriction ....... 95 5.2 NanotribologicalCharacterizationUsinganAFM................. 97 5.2.1 VariousEthnicities .................................... 97 5.2.2 VirginandChemicallyDamagedCaucasianHair (WithandWithoutCommercialConditionerTreatment) .... 108 5.2.3 VariousHairTypesTreatedwithVarious ConditionerMatrices.................................. 117 5.2.4 Skin ................................................122 5.3 ScaleEffects................................................124 5.3.1 DirectionalityDependenceofFriction ....................124 5.3.2 ScaleEffectsonCoefficientofFrictionandAdhesiveForce ofVariousHair....................................... 127 5.4 Summary...................................................134 Contents ix 6 ConditionerThicknessDistributionandBindingInteractions onHairSurface .................................................137 6.1 ConditionerThicknessandAdhesiveForceMapping ..............138 6.1.1 EffectofHumidityandTemperatureonFilmThickness andAdhesion ........................................ 142 6.2 EffectiveYoung’sModulusMapping............................144 6.3 BindingInteractionsBetweenConditionerandHairSurface ........147 6.4 Summary...................................................151 7 Surface Potential Studies of Human Hair Using Kelvin Probe Microscopy ....................................................153 7.1 EffectofPhysicalWearandRubbingwithLatex onSurfacePotential ......................................... 153 7.2 EffectofExternalVoltageandHumidityonSurfacePotential .......158 7.3 EffectofRubbingLoadonNanoscaleChargingCharacteristics .....163 7.3.1 VirginHair...........................................163 7.3.2 EffectofDamage .....................................165 7.3.3 EffectofConditionerTreatments ........................168 7.4 Summary...................................................168 Appendix A ShampooandConditionerTreatmentProcedure..........171 A.1 ShampooTreatments .........................................171 A.2 ConditionerTreatments.......................................171 Appendix B ConditionerThicknessApproximation ..................173 References.........................................................175 SubjectIndex ......................................................181 Biography .........................................................191