Beyond Cloth and Cordage: Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas

354 Pages·2000·39.72 MB·English

by  Penelope B. Drooker

Beyond Cloth and Cordage

Beyond Cloth and Cordage
ARCHAEOLOGICAL TEXTILE RESEARCH IN THE AMERICAS
Edited by
Penelope Ballard Drooker
and Laurie D. Webster
THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH PRESS
Salt Lake City
© 2000 by
The University Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
of Utah Press
Beyond cloth and cordage : archaeological textile research in the
All rights reserved Americas / edited by Penelope Ballard Drooker and Laurie D. Webster.
p. cm.
05 04 03 02 01 00 Includes bibliographical references and index.
5 4 3 21 ISBN 0-87480-662-3
1. Indian textile fabrics. 2. Indian baskets. 3. Indian cordage. 4.
Archaeology—Methodology. 5. Indians—Antiquities. 6.
America—Antiquities. I. Drooker, Penelope B. II. Webster, Laurie D.,
1952-
E59.T35 B49 2000
677'.008997—dc2i
00-009610
Contents
List of Figures vii
List of Tables xi
1. Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas i
Laurie D. Webster, with Penelope Ballard Drooker
2. Handling Archaeological Textile Remains in the Field and Laboratory 25
Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff and Mary Strickland-Olsen
3. Microanalytical Methods for Studying Prehistoric Textile Fibers 51
Kathryn A. Jakes
4. Prehistoric Textiles: Production, Function, Semiotics 60
Annette G. Ericksen, Kathryn A. Jakes, and Virginia S. Wimberley
5. Spinning and Plying: Anthropological Directions 85
C. Jill Minar
6. Spin and Twist as Cultural Markers:
A New England Perspective on Native Fiber Industries 101
James B. Petersen and Jack A. Wolford
7. Ancient Matting from Spirit Cave, Nevada: Technical Implications 119
Catherine S. Fowler, Eugene M. Hattori, and Amy J. Dansie
8. The Mexican Connection: A Study of Sociotechnical Change
in Perishable Manufacture and Food Production in Prehistoric New Mexico 141
D. C. HylandandJ. M. Adovasio
9. Revealing Clothes: Textiles of the Upper Ruin, Tonto National Monument 161
LynnS. Teague
10. The Economics of Pueblo Textile Production
and Exchange in Colonial New Mexico 179
Laurie D. Webster
11. Textile Research from the Mesoamerican Perspective zo 5
Patricia R. Anawalt
1 z.Andean Textiles from Village and Cemetery:
Caserones in the Tarapaca Valley, North Chile 229
Amy Oakland Rodman
CONTENTS
13.Prehistoric Andean Ethnicity and Status: The Textile Evidence Z53
Vicki Cassman
Glossary, compiled by Penelope B. Drooker 267
Notes 278
References 283
Contributors 3 27
Index 3 29
Figures
2.1. Textile Production-Complexity Index 30
2.2. Amounts of fiber required for conventional vs AMS radiocarbon dating 31
2.3. Method of soil removal from textile specimen from Avery Island 34
2.4. Footwear from Arnold Research Cave with soil adhering 3 5
2.5. Humidity chamber for rehumidifying desiccated textiles 3 6
2.6. Twined bag from Big Bone Cave, before and after wet cleaning 37
2.7. Charred textile with bone beads from Wickliffe Mounds 3 8
2.8. Charred textile remains in hardened clay matrix from Wickliffe 40
2.9. Method of storage for braided cordage from Bayou Jasmine 41
2.10. Plexiglass storage mount for textile from Spiro Mounds 42
3.1. Scanning electron micrograph of a modern sheep's wool fiber 5 8
3.2. Scanning electron micrograph of a degraded sheep's wool fiber 59
3.3. Optical micrograph of Apocynum fibers 59
3.4. Scanning electron micrograph of Apocynum fibers 60
3.5. Energy dispersive x-ray spectrum of a hair fiber containing sulfur 62
3.6. Energy dispersive x-ray spectrum of a phytolith containing calcium 62
3.7. Infrared spectra of basswood plant material 64
3.8. Infrared spectra of modern and historic silk 66
4.1. Theoretical framework for the inference of cultural context
of textile remains 72
5.1. "S" and "Z" spin, twist, or twining direction 86
5.2. Two-ply cordage spin and twist directions 87
5.3.Handedness and final twist direction percentages 93
6.1. Map of Native American groups, Northeastern North America 102
6.2. Early Woodland cordage specimen from Boucher site 103
6.3. Positive cast from Toll Bridge site 104
6.4. Recent Karaja twined bag 109
6.5. Detail of recent Yanomamo twined basket 109
7.1. Map of Western Nevada, showing locations of sites 120
7.2. Close-up of warp-faced plain weave mat, Spirit Cave 124
7.3. Selvage of warp-faced plain weave mat 125
7.4. Warp-faced plain weave bag (outer cremation cover) 125
7.5. Side selvage treatments typical of warp-faced plain weave textiles,
Spirit Cave 126
7.6. Overcast side selvage on warp-faced plain weave bag 128
FIGURES
7.7. Suggested three-bar frame for weaving largest of the warp-faced
plain weave mats 129
7.8. Ground weaving with edge cord pegs 130
7.9. Whole-bulrush-stem mat with paired rows of wefts,
Roaring Springs Cave 131
7.10. Close-up of front face of decorated plain weave bag 134
7.11. Open-twined cordage bag 135
7.12. Close-twined cordage bag 135
7.13. Close-up of bird feather inserts on twined cordage bag 136
7.14. Leather strips in false embroidery on open-twined cordage bag 137
7.15. Surface features of whole-bulrush-stem twined mat 138
7.16. Detail of construction of twined mammal fur blanket 138
8.1. Map of Greater Southwest showing locations of key sites 142
8.2. Plan-view map of Pendejo Cave (FB9366) 143
8.3. North-south stratigraphic profile, Pendejo Cave 144
8.4. East-west stratigraphic profile, Pendejo Cave 145
9.1. The Southwest and sites mentioned in text 162
9.2. Distribution of balanced plain weaves in the Greater Southwest 164
9.3. Distribution of fabric structures typical of Hohokam
and Mogollon assemblages 164
9.4. Interlinked shirt depicted on Mimbres pottery 165
9.5. Interlinked sprang shirt from Upper Ruin, Tonto National Monument 165
9.6. Fabric structures typical of northern assemblages 166
9.7. Fabric structures typical of inland Mexico 167
9.8. Distribution of warp-dominant fabrics in the Greater Southwest 168
9.9. Architecture and excavations at the Upper Ruin,
Tonto National Monument 169
9.10. Distribution of typically Hohokam and Mogollon fabrics
in the Upper Ruin 170
9.11. Distribution of late textile types within the Upper Ruin 171
9.12. Distribution of Roosevelt phase pottery within the Upper Ruin 173
9.13. Distribution of Tonto Polychrome pottery within the Upper Ruin 174
10.1. Location of contemporary Pueblo villages and archaeological sites
discussed in text 180
10.2. Male figure depicted on mural, Kiva 8, Pottery Mound 181
10.3. Female figure depicted on mural, Kiva 8, Pottery Mound 182
10.4. Loom hole alignments for upright looms, Kiva 5, Pecos Pueblo 183
10.5. Detail of imported silk fabric, Hawikuh Pueblo 184
10.6. Native Andean man weaving on European-style treadle loom 185
10.7. Earliest known European illustration of Pueblo male and female dress 188
10.8. Woman from Laguna Pueblo 189
10.9. Fragment of simple running-stitch embroidery, Unshagi Pueblo 194
10.10. Detail of embroidery in Figure 10.9 195
10.11. Sketch of embroidery in Figure 10.9 195
10.12. Remains of asbestos fiber sash in oblique interlacing 197
Vlll
FIGURES
10.13. Fragment of knitted legging, Pueblo refugee site, Bandelier
National Monument 198
10.14. Costumed figures from kiva mural, Awatovi Pueblo 200
10.15. Detail of cotton breechcloth embroidered in wool, Acoma Pueblo 201
10.16. Hopi man weaving on upright loom 204
11.1. Mesoamerican cultural area 206
11.2. Miniature coiled-basketry plaque from Guila Naquitz Cave 206
11.3. Fragment of knotted netting from Guila Naquitz Cave 208
11.4. Aztec woman spinning thread 209
11.5. Aztec mother teaching her daughter to weave 210
11.6. Female weaving accoutrements 210
11.7. Weaving equipment 211
11.8. Backstrap loom set up for weaving 212
11.9. Prehispanic textile fragment from Chiptic Cave 214
11.10. Aztec imperial tribute tally from the province of Tochtepec 217
11.11. Two Mixtec men's jackets being presented as votive offerings 218
11.12. An impersonator of the Aztec corn goddess Chicomecoatl 218
11.13. Aztec women wearing decorated blouses and skirts 219
11.14. Ixnextlacuilloli cloak 219
11.15. Aztec King Nezahualpilli wearing the "blue knotted cloak" 220
11.16. Steps involved in the plangi tie-dye technique 221
11.17. Reproduction of step-fret design on King Nezahualpilli's cloak 222
11.18. Map of Acolhuacan kingdom, Tepanac domain,
and Aztec Empire 244
11.19. Three Aztec tribute capes 224
11.20. Map of Aztec Empire showing provinces that sent tribute textiles 225
11.21. Aztec emperor Motecuzoma I wearing official imperial cloak 225
11.22. Aztec emperor Ahuitzotl wearing official imperial cape 226
11.23. Aztec emperor Motecuzoma II clad in official cape of office 226
11.24. Xuhtlalpilli cloak, with listing of 37 cloaks worn by the ruler 227
12.1. Map of the southern Andes 230
12.2. Detail map of Andes showing location of Caserones 23 5
12.3. Map of Tarapaca Valley showing Caserones and associated sites 236
12.4. Aerial view of abandoned Caserones village 23 7
12.5. Overall view of Caserones 237
12.6. Fragment of pack basket 239
12.7. Large coiled baskets and early ceramic vessels 239
12.8. Caserones-style headdress 240
12.9. Miniature headdress and garments 240
12.10. Camelid-fiber string skirt 242
12.11. Detail of camelid-fiber twined mantle 24 3
12.12. Close detail of camelid-fiber twined mantle 244
12.13. Burial offerings from late cemetery tombs 244
12.14. Detail of Alto Ramirez-style shirt 245
12.15. Tiwanaku tapestry tunic 246