Beirut on the Bayou Beirut on the Bayou Alfred Nicola, Louisiana, and the Making of Modern Lebanon RAIF SHWAYRI Published by State University of New York Press, Albany © 2015 Raif Shwayri All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission. No part of this book may be stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means including electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of the publisher. For information, contact State University of New York Press, Albany, NY www.sunypress.edu Production, Dana Foote Marketing, Fran Keneston Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Shwayri, Raif Beirut on the Bayou: Alfred Nicola, Louisiana, and the making of Modern Lebanon / Raif Shwayri ISBN 978-1-4384-6095-6 (hardcover: alk paper) ISBN 978-1-4384-6096-3 (ebook) Library of Congress Control Number: 2015944372 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 To Nadim Habib Shwayri What’s past is prologue . . . —Shakespeare Contents List of Maps xi Acknowledgments xiii Introduction xvii Part I Alfred remembers 1 Fares Bozeid Moujaes: At the time of the emara 3 Of silk and stone 5 Palace builders 11 From Beiteddine to Hadath 19 2 Habib Fares Shwayri: At the time of the caimaqamat 25 Rebirth of Beirut 28 Toward civil war 32 The failure of the caimaqamat system 38 1860, the year of transformations 45 3 Nicolas Habib Shwayri: At the time of the mutasarifiya 55 The Organic Statutes 58 The Administrative Council: Prefiguration of the House of Representatives 61 To finish with Youssef bey Karam 64 A bustling but constrained economy 65 The new imperialisms 75 vii Part II Alfred in Louisiana 4 From Lebanon to Louisiana 81 Ellis Island 81 A forerunner Moujaes: Ann Murray 85 South to New Orleans 89 5 A peddler on foot 95 On the bayou 95 “Up the bayou, down the bayou, across the bayou” 100 A people of extremes 103 “Sweet Papa” 107 6 A shotgun house, a wagon, and a horse called Mac 113 Lockport 113 On war and peace 116 A peddler by wagon 120 “I lift my lamp beside the golden door” 123 Part III Alfred’s legacy 7 Returning to a country in total upheaval 131 In his absence: The dismemberment of an empire 131 Alfred in Hadath: From mandate to independence 140 8 On true resilience 161 Nadim Shwayri 161 Lily 176 Shwayr, in a child’s memory 181 A cry in the wilderness 186 9 A singular message in the face of continuing adversity 217 The peace of circumstance: And the failed state 217 The message of Al-Kafaàt 228 viii • Contents Appendices 1 Mount Lebanon in history 235 2 The origins of the Moujaes family: A history 245 Bibliography 257 Index 265 Plates follow pages 78 and 232 Contents • ix
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