Behind the veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia; an account of an Englishwoman's eight years' residence amongst the women of the East

1909·70.3 MB·English

by  Hume-Griffith, M. E., Mrs

Bell's Colonial Bbltlon
BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA
AND TURKISH ARABIA

The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian Costume
Dr. Hume-Griffith’s dress is that of a chief, and is of blue cloth lined with red flannel: and the
lady’s is of richly-brocaded velvet, and her head-coverings are of very pretty muslin, embroidered
with silk.
BEHIND THE VEIL
IN PERSIA
AND TURKISH ARABIA
AN ACCOUNT OF AN ENGLISHWOMAN'S
EIGHT TEARS' RESIDENCE AMONGST
'THE WOMEN OF THE EAST
BY
'M. E. HUME-GRIFFITli
WITH NARRATIVES OF EXPERIENCES IN BOTH COUNTRIES
BY
A. HUME-GRIFFITH, M.D., D.P.IJ-
With 37 Illustrations and a Map
LONDON
GEORGE BELL » SONS
AND BOMBAY
I9°9
This Edition is issued for circulatio?i in India
and the Colonies only
I DEDICATE
THIS BOOK
TO
MY HUSBAND
IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF
EIGHT HAPPY YEARS
1900-1908

PREFACE
I endeavoured in this book to give some
have
account of that inner life of the East of which
a traveller, however keen-sighted and intelligent,
seldom gains more than a passing glimpse. In
a residence of eight years in Persia and Turkish
Arabia I have become intimate with a large circle
of friends whose life is passed behind the veil, and
as the wife of a medical missionary I have had
unusual opportunities of winning their confidence
and becoming acquainted with their thoughts. Of
direct missionary effort I have said very little, but
I hope that the picture I have given may arouse
interest in lives spent amongst surroundings so
different from our own.
It is impossible for any one, however unversed
in politics, who has lived so long in Mesopotamia,
not to be deeply interested in the future of the
country. While all Europe has been filled with
astonishment at the bloodless revolution in Turkey,
we who have become familiar with its inner life are
touched with a feeling of admiration and something
akin to awe. Whatever misgivings there may be
as to the permanence of this reformation we hope
and trust that it will endure.
Of one imminent change the effect is likely to
be far-reaching. The new government has secured
the services of Sir William Wilcox as their adviser
vii
PREFACE
in great irrigation schemes. Irrigation in Mesopo¬
tamia will change the whole face of the country;
vast stretches of desert will be transformed into a
garden, ruined villages will be restored, a new king¬
dom may be born, and Babylon possibly rebuilt.
Mosul, practically on the site of ancient Nineveh,
will become easy of access from Europe by means
of the Baghdad railway and the restored navigation
of the Tigris. Its waste places may be filled with
corn, and the city be crowned once more with some
of its ancient glory.
I should like to take this opportunity of thank¬
ing all those who have kindly allowed me to use
their photographs, amongst them the Rev. C. H.
Stileman, Dr. Saati of Mosul, and the Publishing
Department of the Church Missionary Society.
I am indebted to Professor Brown’s valuable
book entitled " A Year amongst the Persians” for
information on the Babi religion, and to Sir A. H.
Layard’s classical work on the excavations of Nineveh,
which I have frequently had occasion to consult.
CONTENTS
PART I
CHAPTER I
EARLY IMPRESSIONS
PAGE
Start for Persia-—Arrival at Isphahan—Departure for Kerman—The
Land of the Lion and the Sun—A rainy day and its effects—Eclipse
—Locusts—Sand-storms—Land of cats—Modes of conveyance-
inhabitants . ... ..17
CHAPTER II
KERMAN
Short history of Kerman—Its overthrow—City of beggars—Story of the
fort—The jackal’s “ tale of woe ” . . . . . - .30
CHAPTER III
PERSIAN INDUSTRIES
Carpet-making—How to tell a good carpet—How to make a carpet-—
The cry of the children—Shawl manufactures—Calico-printing—
Brasswork — Agricultural industries — Water disputes — Kanats
—Poppy crops—Wheat and com—Tobacco-growing . . , 40
CHAPTER IV
THE CLIMATE OP PERSIA
Resht, Teheran, Isphahan—Dryness of atmosphere—Cellars—Roof life
—Children attacked by jackals—Chequered history of work in
Kerman.50
CHAPTER .V
HOLIDAYS IN PERSIA
How to ensure a prosperous journey—Natanz—Astonishment of natives
at sight of hairpins—Pulivagoon—Mahoon—Aliabad—Prince under
canvas—Visit from a Persian princess—A Persian deer hunt . . 59
CHAPTER VI
SOCIAL LIFE IN PERSIA
Kerman—House-hunting and building—White ants—Housekeeping in
Kerman—Servant question—Truth v. falsehood—Abdul Fateh—
Bagi — Recreations — Some exciting rides — Persian etiquette—
Dinner at the governor’s.71
ix