Beeronomics “Beeronomics:HowBeerExplainstheWorldisasignificantbook.Itcoversdiverse aspectsoftheeconomicsofbeerinworldhistory,providingfascinatingreading forbeerenthusiastsandothersalike.Eachchapterisarevelation.Drawingitall together leaves us with a much changed view of this wonderful, historically importantbeverage.” JulianM.Alston,DistinguishedProfessorandDirectoroftheRobertMondavi InstituteCenterforWineEconomics,UCDavis,andauthorof TheEffectsofFarmandFoodPoliciesonObesityintheUnitedStates “Thisimpressive,all-encompassing,andaccessiblebookisatourdeforceandmust- readforanybodyinterestedinhistory,economics,andobviouslybeer.Cheers!” BartMinten,Seniorresearchfellow, InternationalFoodPolicyResearchInstitute “Forseveralyearsnow,JoSwinnenhasbeendevotingseriousscholarlyattentionto aneglectedtopic,anduncoveringintriguingstoriesalongtheway.Finally,these insightsaremadeavailabletoabroaderpublicinthisrefreshingread.” KoenDeconinck,FormerManagementConsultantat Bain&Company;EconomistatOrganisationfor EconomicCo-operationandDevelopment “This is a fascinating book on beer, history, and economics by the leading beer economistsfromtheworld’sbeercapital.Infifteenchapters,SwinnenandBriskitell thestoryofhowtheworldhasshapedbeerandhowbeerhasshapedtheworld.” KarlStorchmann,NewYorkUniversity,ManagingEditorofthe JournalofWineEconomics “Formuchofhumanhistorybeerwascentral–asafesourceoffluids,caloriesthat fedtheworkforce,andtaxrevenuesthatreshapedthepoliticalworld.Monks, generals,scientists,kings,androbberbaronsareallpartofthebook’sjourneythat endswithcraftbeer.Amustonallbusinessschoolslistofcasestudiesandyour holidaygiftlist!” ProfessorHarrydeGorter,CornellUniversity “Beeronomics provides an excellent addition to the literature. It addresses and explores multiple aspects and issues related to beer and brewing worldwide, usingseveralinterestingapproachestohighlightnewtrajectoriesandtrendsin thefield.Definitelywortharead!” ProfessorIgnazioCabras,ChairinEntrepreneurshipandRegionalEconomic DevelopmentandFacultyDirector(InternationalDevelopment), NewcastleBusinessSchool,NorthumbriaUniversity Beeronomics How Beer Explains the World Johan Swinnen and Devin Briski 1 3 GreatClarendonStreet,Oxford,OX26DP, UnitedKingdom OxfordUniversityPressisadepartmentoftheUniversityofOxford. ItfurtherstheUniversity’sobjectiveofexcellenceinresearch,scholarship, andeducationbypublishingworldwide.Oxfordisaregisteredtrademarkof OxfordUniversityPressintheUKandincertainothercountries #JohanSwinnen2017 Themoralrightsoftheauthorhavebeenasserted FirstEditionpublishedin2017 Impression:1 Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedin aretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans,withoutthe priorpermissioninwritingofOxfordUniversityPress,orasexpresslypermitted bylaw,bylicenceorundertermsagreedwiththeappropriatereprographics rightsorganization.Enquiriesconcerningreproductionoutsidethescopeofthe aboveshouldbesenttotheRightsDepartment,OxfordUniversityPress,atthe addressabove Youmustnotcirculatethisworkinanyotherform andyoumustimposethissameconditiononanyacquirer PublishedintheUnitedStatesofAmericabyOxfordUniversityPress 198MadisonAvenue,NewYork,NY10016,UnitedStatesofAmerica BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData Dataavailable LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2017932968 ISBN 978–0–19–880830–5 PrintedinGreatBritainby ClaysLtd,StIvesplc LinkstothirdpartywebsitesareprovidedbyOxfordingoodfaithand forinformationonly.Oxforddisclaimsanyresponsibilityforthematerials containedinanythirdpartywebsitereferencedinthiswork. OUPCORRECTEDPROOF–FINAL,5/6/2017,SPi Thisbookisdedicatedtofriendsandcolleaguesfromalloverthe worldwithwhom,overthepastdecades,Ihavehadthepleasure ofdiscussingtheeconomicsofeverything—“howtheworld works”—whileenjoyingwonderfulbeers. JoSwinnen Thisbookisdedicatedtomymomwhoalwaysbelievedin mystorytellingandtaughtmetolovebeer,andmydadwho introducedmetotheunexpectedbountyandemotional rewardsofsobriety.I’dalsoliketothankCasey’sPubin Detroit,MichiganandPizzeriaCastelloinLeuven,Belgium fornourishingmeduringthisprocess. DevinBriski Contents ListofFigures ix ListofTables xi AbouttheAuthors xiii Introduction:FromMonasteriestoMultinationalsandBack 1 1. TheWorld’sOldestProfession:BrewingintheCradleof Civilization 7 2. ARevolutionEveryThousandYears:HowHopsJump-Started CommercialBrewinginMedievalEurope 15 3. TheBrewthatLaunchedaThousandShips:HowPorterPaid fortheBritishRoyalNavy 23 4. ARevolutionEveryThousandYears,PartII:HowBottom FermentationMadeBeertheDarlingoftheScientificand IndustrialRevolutions 37 5. HowTVKilledtheLocalBrewery 47 6. BeerMonopoly:HowtheBelgianBeerBaronsDethroned theKing 55 7. SocialistLubricant:Liberalization,Takeovers,and RestructuringtheEastEuropeanBrewingIndustry 63 8. TheBelgianWhite:ReincarnationofanOldWorldBrew 73 9. TheReinheitsgebot:ProtectionagainstCompetitionor Contamination? 83 10. FromLandtoBrand:HowNineteenth-CenturyNationalist PoliticsPlantedtheSeedsfortheGlobalTrademarkBattle over“Budweiser” 93 11. TheGreatConvergence:TheFalloftheBeer-Drinking NationandtheRiseoftheBeer-DrinkingWorld 103 Contents 12. FromVodkatoBaltika:DecipheringRussia’sRecentLove AffairwithBeer 113 13. TradingWaterorTerroir?TheChangingNatureofthe BeerTrade 119 14. CraftNation:HowBelgium’s“PeasantBeers”Becamethe BestintheWorld 129 15. HopHeadsandLocaholics:StrategiesoftheAmericanCraft BeerMovement 145 Conclusion:HowBeerExplainstheWorld 161 SelectedBibliography 171 Index 173 viii List of Figures 0.1 Globalconsumptionofbeerandwineinvalue(US$billion), 1960–2013 5 3.1 IndirecttaxrevenueinBritain(£millions),1750–1850 27 3.2 ProductionofstrongbeerinLondonbytoptwelvebrewers (in1,000barrels),1750–1810 35 4.1 BeerproductioninGermany,UK,andUSA,1860–1960 (billionliters) 45 5.1 NumberofbreweriesintheUSA,1950–80 48 9.1 Germanbeerimports,1985–2015(%oftotalbeerconsumption) 91 11.1 Totalbeerconsumptionbycountry(billionliters),1960–2010 104 11.2 Percapitabeerconsumption,1960–2010 106 11.3 Shareofbeerintotalalcoholconsumption,1960–2010(%) 110 12.1 BeerconsumptioninRussia(literspercapita),1960–2012 114 13.1 ShareofbeerimportsinUSbeerconsumption,1970–2014(%) 121 13.2 Beertradeintheworld(billionliters,%ofproduction),1960–2013 126 14.1 Belgianbeerexportsanddomesticconsumption(millionliters) 131 15.1 NumberofcraftbrewersandcraftmarketshareintheUS(%), 1980–2014 147